COBrien

Fine looking rifles! And thanks for the heads up on the lock nut. I'd planned on using a touch of blue LocTite on both the handguard and the lock nut, just as I do with just about any critical threaded firearm part. Gas blocks (Mini-14s specifically), scope rings, etc.

It's a smartphone/tablet app specifically for online forums. It allows you to have all the forums you belong to in one place and to upload pics directly from your device to your posts. IMO, it's just more convenient when posting/viewing on a phone. Having said that, the smartphone-friendly web version of the forum is nicer than any other forum I've visited, as far as ease of posting and navigating through sections.

Is 308AR on Tapatalk? If not, what would it take? I know nothing of running a forum...

I'm digging this one: http://www.jsesurplus.com/youngmanufacturingcarbineventedfloat-2.aspx But it doesn't show up under .308 Handguards. Won't work. Have submitted an e-mail to Young Manufacturing to see if they make anything like it for .308s. Also stumbled upon the Fulton Armory FF Handguards. I totally forgot Fulton's .308s are DPMS pattern... Digging this one. Comes standard with a sling stud hole, can be indexed with the locking ring (it's a 3-piece setup). Out of stock right now, showing $90 (more or less) as a purchase price. This one has a slot for a handstop (not that I need that...), as well as a hole for a sling stud. Also indexable: $108, in stock. I just have a hard time paying that much for what is, essentially, a threaded aluminum tube that is anodized black. But a Hogue with the "DPMS AR-10 Coupler" would cost me about the same as either of these. $60-65 for the handguard, $30+ for the coupler. Plus these are already drilled and tapped, and can be indexed/timed should removal be necessary in the future. I think I've made up my mind. Finally. ...maybe.

Called DPMS today. Since they have switched to Gen. II rifles, they are no longer producing or stocking replacement parts for Gen. I rifles. This seems like a terrible business decision. They pointed me in the direction of Daniel Defense, Creedmoor Sports (Creedmoor Armory), and Pacific Tool & Gauge. Daniel Defense "got tired of the compatibility issues between the .308 AR platforms," so they made their own .308 AR rifle. With its own proprietary parts. Adding another platform with proprietary parts does nothing to "un-Foxtrot" the Charlie Foxtrot that is the .308 AR marketplace. Long story short(-ish), they only produce and carry parts for their platform. Which isn't the same as DPMS or Armalite. Have I mentioned it's proprietary? And that that makes no sense? Pacific Tool & Gauge directed me to a $233 tacticool monstrosity in which I have no interest. Helpful, but going the wrong direction. Creedmoor Sports directed me to Creedmoor Armory, who advised their gunsmith has seen lots of issues with .308 ARs (due to the incompatibility between DPMS and Armalite parts), and said I should bring the rifle in to the gunsmith to see what he could do. They're in Alabama. I'm in Oklahoma. That wouldn't work out. I do appreciate their help, but I know what I'm after... Lol! Going back to considering a Hogue Rifle-length handguard or something along these lines: At least it has cooling slots. But they're running around $100 from the website. The popular online auction marketplace (whose name and links it seems are not to be mentioned around here...) has a couple hovering around the $60 mark.

Just looking at the pics on DPMS's website, I don't see it being too big a problem to file down the Oracle's block. My problem is I've got an LR-308T, with that mile-high (but still not receiver-height... Thanks DPMS!) rail. I'd need to start with a chop saw. Picking up a low profile gas block for $30-50 would be well worth it to me. As another aside, I measured the distance from upper to FH on my LR-308T this morning. I don't remember the exact measurement, but a 15" FF tube would work out just fine, and a 15.5" would come past the back end of the FH -- not my style. I'm still thinking a 12" or 12.5" (more or less "rifle length) is more my speed.

Forgot to post a pic in the OP, for what it's worth:

So... That's a good review?

After still more research, I think I'll be better off (and money ahead...) finding myself a DPMS LR-308 "standard length" (rifle length) FF tube. No need to change the barrel nut, etc. Swap to a low-pro gas block and it's good to go. I'd probably have my local machine shop make some decent cooling slots in it, as well. Now to locate one...

Just like the title says... Looking for a rifle-length (DPMS calls it "standard length") LR-308 free-float handguard/forend. Let me know whatcha got and whatcha want for it.

On a related note, the OEM forend on the Armalite AR10T is EXACTLY what I'm looking for. I sent Armalite an email, and, as I expected, they do not produce a barrel nut for DPMS threads -- only Armalite threads.

Fortunately it is a 2-piece setup. I.e., the barrel nut goes on, then the FF tube threads onto it. Worst case scenario, if I ended up removing the FF tube for some reason in the future and it didn't line up as before, I could always add some sort of thin washer (I know it'd be hard to find something off-the-shelf) to "index" the FF tube much like one would with certain muzzle devices. ...right? I also need to measure MY rifle to see what the length is from the front of the upper to the flash hider. I'm not even sure I've got enough barrel out there for a 15" setup (like the extension tube + carbine handguard) to fit properly.

I'm loving my "little" DPMS LR308T, but I have come to the conclusion that I do not need the railed gas block. This rifle is currently wearing a Weaver Kaspa 3-12x50, but will soon be getting something more like a Primary Arms 1-6x24. I'm looking at a low profile gas block and a longer FF forend, specifically Hogue. I like the fact that they're not "tactical" looking -- just plain and simple. Having said that, I would like to have at least a standard sling swivel stud to mount my bipod. I'm torn between getting a rifle-length forend: or a carbine-length forend: with one of their "3-gun" extensions. Of course, whichever route I go I will have to buy a DPMS "AR-10" (that's how they listed it, I know the difference...) Forend Coupler. Anybody have any opinions about these products? Thanks in advance.

Bought a bunch of cleaning "stuff" for my 308AR. IOSSO brush set, Dewey Chamber Rod, PatchWorm felt "buttons," and some Otis Copper Remover. Oh, and a Hogue beavertail grip w/ finger grooves. Should be a good weekend.

Nor am I. That's why I prefer nylon brushes whenever possible. Not to mention the fact that copper solvents eat bronze brushes.

I just ordered an IOSSO AR-308 Brush Set: From left to right: Upper, Bolt Carrier, Chamber, Bore brushes. I've read lots of good things about the IOSSO brushes. Also ordered up a Dewey .308 AR-Type Rifle Combo (mostly for the cleaning rod, didn't really want or need the bronze chamber brush, but it never hurts to have it): I figure these brushes, a dental pick, Q-Tips, my PatchWorm (with .30 caliber felt "buttons" and 1.25" cotton patches), Ballistol, and some Otis O12-CU should make for a great little 308AR cleaning kit.

My wife was with me when I picked up the rifle. When the seller mentioned he had one RRA 2-stage left, my wife said, "Buy it!" The seller is a friend of one of her coworkers, and the two of them had recently built a rifle for the coworker with the RRA 2-stage. She tried it and loved it. Now I may be buying another one for her personal rifle... I'm still trying to find FGMM locally. I'd rather buy local, even if it is a couple dollars more. I don't run any steel-cased ammo in any of my weapons. Yeah, it's cheaper, but the real cost is much higher.

So, umm, any guys from OK still hanging around here?

Thanks for the warm welcome, fellas! I dropped in the RRA 2-Stage last week. Man, what a difference! I tore the rifle down on Saturday, gave it a good cleaning, and familiarized myself with the internal parts (again, this is my first AR-pattern rifle). Cleaned the bore, disassembled the BCG, and gave it all a healthy coating of Mobil 1 15W-50, even the interior surfaces of the upper. I also got out to the local PD's range on Saturday and began the process of sighting in the Weaver Kaspa scope and breaking in the rifle. Running Federal XM80CL and PMags, the rifle performed flawlessly. Well, except for one shot -- I was resting the rifle on some bleachers (why they have bleachers at the range, I'm not sure...) and inadvertently pressed the magazine up against the "seat" while firing. This resulted in the next round not chambering. User error... Started from 50 yards with a good bench (actually a picnic table...) and bipod. First several groups (2-shot) were rather large. I chalk this up to the rifle being brand new and me getting used to the trigger. After about 20 rounds, the groups tightened right up -- 3-round groups could be covered by a quarter, and 2 of the 3 shots in each group were touching. Backing out to 100 yards (this is where the bleachers came into play), things got ugly. I'm attributing that to not having as good a rest as I did at 50, as there were no benches at 100, only bleachers, which left me standing behind the rifle (not good for "precision work", I've found). I proned out at 100, and, with a bipod, the groups were, well, okay. Of course, I was lying right in the middle of an ant colony. I followed DPMS's break-in instructions (mostly), firing 2 rounds and running a BoreSnake down the tube for the first 20 rounds, then fired another 10 and packed it up, cleaning when I got home. Overall I'm very pleased with this "little" rifle so far, and I can't wait to get it out to my place with a good rest at 100 to see what it'll do. Then stretch it out to 200 and see where I'm at.

Bought a DPMS LR-308T, with little technical knowledge of the AR platform. Started Googling the questions I had, and found the most informative answers in threads here. Decided this was THE place for .308 ARs.

Thanks for all the info! I found some info (opinions?) on Fulton Armory's website re: 7.62 NATO vs. .308 Win. Essentially, if the bolt won't close on a .308 Field headspace gauge, it will be safe to fire .308 from a 7.62 chamber. I went ahead and ordered a No-Go gauge and a Field gauge from Brownell's, they should be here later in the week. I figure it's worth the $28 each just to be sure. Plus I have a friend who's building a .308 AR now, and probably several others in the future. I'll sell/semi-permanently loan them to him if nothing else.

Hello all! My name's Chase, and I just purchased a DPMS LR-308T last week. In doing some research, I stumbled upon 308AR.com and decided to join. I'm glad to find a place that is specific to .308 AR rifles. Let me apologize in advance for a long-winded intro post... This DPMS is my first AR-pattern rifle. I've owned a Mini-14 since 2008 (and lots of other firearms for decades...) and have resisted the urge to buy anything AR-related, but the deal I got was just too good to pass up. Even my wife agreed... I know these threads are worthless without pics, so here's one: The rifle is wearing a MagPul MOE Rifle stock and a Weaver Kaspa 3-12x50 scope. Picked this up, unfired, with original box, OEM mag, ProMag 19-rounder, and the case for $850. He included the OEM butt stock as well as the MagPul. Also threw in a new-in-package RRA 2-Stage for $80. At this point, I'm looking forward to breaking this rifle in. Also wondering if the RRA trigger will work without modification. Finally, after much online research and 2 phone calls to DPMS, im unclear as to whether or not I should feed this rifle commercial .308 ammo. The barrel is marked 7.62x51, while the lower is marked .308. According to the CS rep at DPMS, I should only shoot what's marked on the barrel. According to the parts/service department, I should only shoot what's marked on the lower. I know the lower really doesn't affect what the rifle is chambered for, and have read lots of discussion that goes both ways. 7.62 in a .308 chamber I know is fine, but .308 in a 7.62 chamber may or may not be a good idea. Does anyone have any recommendations re: Ammo and RRA trigger? Thanks in advance, and I'm looking forward to contributing to the forum as I learn more.