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Everything posted by andrewtac

  1. I'll need that, as some of the cases have a bur. I have thought about adding more weight to the bolt
  2. Eagle Arms; has a 20" faxon in 6.5 creedmore, heavy buffer and tubbs spring. Rainer high pressure BCG, adjustable block. I tuned the gas by bolt hold open then plus two clicks; brass is 4 o'clock about 5-6 away. I polished the ejector, and tried to chamfer the hole a little. I also told rounded the extractor corners a little. I am still getting ejector marks on the brass, appear to be about the size of the ejector hole. I am thinking about removing the ejector and shooting it single shoot to see if it is the hole itself making the marks or the ejector. Any other ideas? I'd like to reload for this rifle at some point, and not have to by fresh brass every time.
  3. Last time I qualified they gave the option, that was probably around 2012. I laughed at the folks that went with irons.
  4. Marines can qual with ACOGs now, been that way for years. I don't think the option exist for initial qual, not sure.
  5. I got a HB about a month ago from heavy buffers
  6. Or those who chose to live in a less than free states, their politics failed and now are here trying to force the same failed policies on us.
  7. Here are pics of extractor and ejector. Maybe the extractor holding on to tight, the corners are sharp, saw a thread on that somewhere. The ejector doesn't seem sharp.
  8. Another good range day. Box of ammo, all fed and all bolt hold open on empty mags. I did a little for accuracy. 143 ELDX 1st Target 100 yards, the shots above and below (12,6) were sight in. The group of 4 was shot holding on the bull. I think I pulled the flier. 2nd Target was 200 yd, need to try again. Any idea what would cause the ejector swipe? Cases are ejecting 3-4 o'clock. I am one maybe two clicks open on the gas block passed bolt not holding open. It seems to be gassed correctly, but the ejector swipe makes me think still to much gas. If I back down the bolt won't hold open.
  9. Another good range day. Box of ammo, all fed and all bolt hold open on empty mags. I did a little for accuracy. 143 ELDX 1st Target 100 yards, the shots above and below (12,6) were sight in. The group of 4 was shot holding on the bull. I think I pulled the flier. 2nd Target was 200 yd, need to try again. Any idea what would cause the ejector swipe? Cases are ejecting 3-4 o'clock. I am one maybe two clicks open on the gas block passed bolt not holding open. It seems to be gassed correctly, but the ejector swipe makes me think still to much gas. If I back down the bolt won't hold open.
  10. Changed to 6.5 creedmore, yes getting an integrated suppressed 6.5 bolt gun as well.
  11. Well, like I said in the other thread, I got irritated and tired of messing with the 300 wsm. I have a suppressed bolt gun coming in 6.5, and that is what got let me to messing with the AR10 again. I put a 20" fluted faxon on it, Rainer BCG (with the high pressure bolt), superlative adjustable block. I also sold the ridiculously large 8X32X56 nightforce and went with a 4x14x44 vortex HST. The rifle has lost a bit of weight, will be much more manageable in the field now. I also put in a heavy buffer and a Tubbs flat spring. I do have a liberty serenity on order, hopefully the gun will run with the can. Review of what it was, Accuracy Systems 300WSM with Eagle Arms upper and lower; never worked right; almost always FTE. So I put it all together, got the bolt sopping wet with oil and went to the range with some 143 ELD-Xs. The very first round ejected, bolt held open; win! I picked up the brass, and the primer had blown out. I was pissed. I had the block adjusted 2 turns past wide open (in the bleed off range). So I figured I'd tighten it down all the way closed then open it up a couple turns (in the mid closed range, but not in bleed off). I went about 1.5 turns open. Ejection again, brass looked better, but short stroke. I opened up doing a shot at a time until it held open. All day I had good ejection. I had two FTF (where the round got damaged by the bolt) during gas block adjustment; was probably a little under gassed. I ended up in a happy spot where the brass would go to about 3 oclock, maybe 4. It is a little over gassed. There is some damage to the case rims. I don't think I will reload for this rifle, so not concerned about the brass. But don't want to replace bolt parts. Once everything breaks in I might try some more adjusting to prevent the case rim damage, but I am ok with it. Actually thrilled with it, no longer is it a boat anchor. It is now fun to shoot. Once I put the can on, I'll need to adjust again. It will probably only be shot with the can once I get it. I was very happy, Out of 40 rounds, two damaged from FTF, and the rest ejected correctly. Previously with the 300WSM out of 40 I'd probably damage 10 of them and might eject 3-5. Accuracy seemed decent, but wasn't really trying. I'll go back and try again in better conditions. I got a decent zero at 100.
  12. So I got irritated and impatient and bought parts to make it a 6.5. I gave up on the 300. Anyways, not much wear on the CH. The pic of the upper was with the flash on, made it look like excessive wear. Not a side charger. I am back in the States, still on call and not quite on an off day yet, might be at home tomorrow. Everything should arrive and if I have daylight I'll shoot. Got a Faxon 20" and Rainier bolt, headspace done by Rainier, new adjustable has block for the stop, and replacement bolt stop. I'll start a new thread with results.
  13. Well sort of. I am back on US soil but on the road still. Same topic, but I got impatient right before the trip ordered a barrel and new bcg, went 6.5. updating the other thread next
  14. Well I went today. Two rounds off. Both left cases inside the receiver, not even ejecting. One the second round, it bent the bolt catch, stuck open. I had to take the rifle apart to get the bolt to close. And in the process I lost the plunger. I think I am done. Might start a new thread later for a 6.5 convert with known working combo
  15. The guy I bought the second barrel from had a crazy long gas tube (didn't come with the barrel). He made it I think, it looked around the barrel several times, effectively increasing the length of the tube, and delaying the gas charge. Hopefully the spring and buffer slow it down. Probably the last part I throw at it.
  16. This is the conclusion I came to years ago, extraction to soon. I weighed my buffer, 5.3 oz. I have on order a heavy buffer and spring. I did put the old barrel back in last night and will go back today at some point and try it.
  17. I went today, bolt dripping wet. I also pulled a donut off an ar15 bolt, so the extractor now has two donuts. It shot three times and cycled. First shot I had empty mag, bolt locked back. Next shot I had one in mag, cycled and fed! Next cycled and fed (had two in mag this shot). Then I got a jam, see pic below. It did this once more and I say that the case neck had split this time so I quit. These were 180 Winchester powermax I bought years ago. All brass that ejected only went about two or three feet from; seemed like it almost just fell out. It was probably 3 o'clock hard to tell as it barely came out. The bottom pictures are from today (the brass colored brass). These all appear to have damage on the rim. I suspect two donuts on the extractor is not allowing the extractor to slip and pulling really hard. It seems to me that something is wrong beyond the extractor, cases dribbling out, damage to the rim where the extractor pulled them. One of the case necks split. Otherwise can't see damage. Maybe old brass. The other pics, silver brass, I believe are from the other barrel. I can't see any damage. I ordered a headspace gauge, at this point I need to rule this out, was told it was good before. I ordered an adjustable gas block and new tube for my original barrel. I also ordered some extra power extractor springs. I am going to try the original barrel again as that is how it came from AS. I'll go with a super wet bolt. 6.5 is getting closer to seeming like a better plan.
  18. It is an eagle arms. I did send it back to AS last time. There were some mods to it.
  19. I'll check I had some power point and silver tip tried different weights of both I believe. Would the extractor slipping off cause stuck cases? I assumed in both I had a gas issue as in over expansion of the case causing to much friction, case stuck and then extractor cannot hold. I didn't think that the slipping of the extractor would cause a stuck case, maybe that has been the problem all along and never had enough tension.
  20. Standard stock with buffer, 5.2". I measured the recoil spring about an inch short but being compressed 15+ years is probably why.
  21. Yeah, single spring with a ring and thing in the center of the spring.
  22. I bought a 300wsm AR10 from accuracy systems years ago. It would not cycle, cases would stick and bolt would cycle (extractor slipped off of stuck cases). I sent it back, they said it had no issues (I still had the same issues when I got it back). Several moves and deployments went by and I never sent it back to them again, my fault. So about 3-4 years ago I tried messing with it again. Shooting it, it would cycle maybe one, then cases would stick and bolt would cycle (extractor slipped off). Usually would have to mortar or use a cleaning rod to get the spent cases out, same as before. I might have had 3 boxes through this barrel. So I bought a used known working barrel from someone, 300wsm again, and same issues. I bought a adjustable block and tried adjusting. I ended up with the same issues, stuck cases. In both barrels it is as if the cases are over expanding and getting stuck. I don't know if this a timing issue, over gas, etc. Both Chambers are smooth, no rough spots. Original barrel is rifle plus 2; used second hand barrel is rifle gas length I checked tonight and the gas tube extends 1/2 way in the C, as shown on many pics on here. I don't remember on the original barrel if it did. One thing I found on here that I haven't tried is a soaking wet with oil bolt yet; and never did before. I always had a thin coat of oil but never dripping wet. I verified buffer is 5.2". Made sure no gas leaks. Extractor doesn't bind on the case when coming out. On both of the barrels the spent brass didn't look overly budged or any cracks, scares or dents; just stuck in the chamber. The Chambers don't seem tight either, fresh rounds drop in. All loads factory, tried a few different ones but all factory. What would cause cases to stick, two different barrels? Is it a 300 wsm issue, to much pressure or pressure comes on to fast? Any other trouble shooting to do? The gun was bought to hunt with when I was younger and figured I needed the biggest hottest round I could get. 300wsm would be cool, but it has been a paper weight and running out of ideas. My other thought is converting to a 6.5, with a can (this rifle.will.get a can either way at some point once it works). It seems 6.5s work, and I'd just need new barrel and bolt. Pretty much only whitetail and pigs: 6.5 would more than work. Should I give up on the 300?
  23. Will do, on the road right now. I have several things to check when I get home that I wasn't aware of. I need to sort of start over with the troubleshooting, take pics, and detailed notes. Both times I messwd with it I got so frustrated I pretty much just put it in the safe and forgot about it. First time the internet wasn't what it was, second time I didn't find this forum. Either way I am going to fix it or repurpose the good parts.
  24. Stumbled across this forum trying to find answers. I have an AR10 that doesn't function; hasn't as long as I've owned it. I am still doing some research and searching. Thanks for the information.
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