BeeKay

It looks like the copper shavings are the result of an unfired round being ejected and the copper of the jacket being dragged over the lugs with the pressure of the ejector pushing it as it moves back. Not a problem Thanks, I'll be back if there's anything else

OK Prolly Saturday afternoon Ever watch SOTAR - That's the channel in the video I posted He gets into some things that I wasn't familiar with, but makes sense

This video shows the issue He isn't permitted to show the actual process, because of YT guidelines. Also I get some chips from a burr or sharp edge on the lugs of the extension scratching the jacket on the bullets when I feed them. It seems like possibly there'd be a general deburring process that I can do to solve that problem as well. Ideas welcome - Thanks

I think there may be some burrs or sharp edges on the lugs of the barrel extension, As well as the feed ramps showing a slight bit of overhang where it shouldn't be . The edge of the barrel extension feed ramps is about .005" proud of the ramp edge on the housing.

I am using a bolt and a barrel that are leftover parts from an earlier build It's a KAK .308 Barrel and Bolt Which I am now putting onto a BCA Sidecharging Upper But the Bolt / Barrel combo has about 150 rounds through it The rest of the combo - Including the BCG and Upper & Accessories have never been fired. Thanks for your help

Excellent - Thanks !

I have a chamber on a KAK value Line barrel and KAK BCG which I've tested that using Clymer Go - No Go Gauges I'm wondering if Clymer No Go Gauges are typically loose, because I've got the bolt closing on a No Go Gauge But that's with some resistance. I've never had issues with feeding or firing, but for reloading, I'm hoping that there won't be issues with sharing ammo with different rifles. I haven't tested it yet sharing reloaded ammo I'm just doing the Go - No Go test because I just bought the gauges and I'm trying them out on this Chamber / Bolt combination Thanks for any suggestions

I believe I did the intro thing when I joined in around 2020 But I don't mind updating I was building a .308 with a 16" KAK barrel (markdown / 2nd / Value-Line) back then. And it was on an Aero Upper The lower was a plastic 80% that I got because it was dirt cheap and I wasn't ready to fully commit. Later I got an Aero Lower. I'm building a second .308 now - using a few extra parts that I've accumulated. Thanks

I'm building an upper - This is only my second My first build was pretty simple, and I had no problems That was around 2019 - It was luck I just got some parts and put them together, and it didn't give me any problems, Shortly afterward, I wanted to try a different upper, and I wasn't as lucky the second time. I didn't bother to troubleshoot it until now, because I have one that works, so why bother ? Anyhow it's time to troubleshoot that, because I'm not as fortunate on this upper build. I have feed hangups and when I look at the lugs on the barrel extension, I see copper shavings there. In addition to the copper shavings, there are scratches in the bullets as a result of feeding. For starters - I'll ask if there's a You Tube channel that can be recommended ? I started watching Sons of Liberty Gun Works Because he appears to specialize in AR builds. But I'm open to further suggestions, since YT doesn't like to show very much when it comes to gunsmithing. I can show some pics of the scratch pattern on the copper jackets of the bullets, If that would be helpful. OIr if someone has some explanation that's better than a video, I'm open for that. Thank you very much in advance .....

Ever tried Barnes 130 gr Tipped TSX ?

Thanks - I'm seeing some WC barrels that are on sale with a 1 : 11-1/2 twist One of those might be good BTW - I meant slower twist rate not shower

I have a few barrels, and they were inexpensive , so I may invest in a good quality barrel sometime . I also have a stash of 150 gr bullets that I bought because they seemed like they'd probably meet my needs, since I'm not expecting to take shots of longer than 400yd, because that's the max distance at our range. The bullets I have are assorted tipped HP hunting bullets and FMJs . All the barrels I have are 1:10 twist. I'm curious whether there's a typical twist rate that's specifically preferred for 150 gr bullets. I've seen some tests in videos that seem to indicate that a shower twist rate is better for accuracy using 150 gr bullets, but other factors could have been the reason for the improvement. I'm thinking about a 20" barrel, but I haven't ruled out a 16" Thanks in advance for help

There are some that are manufactured overseas that seem to be plentiful but expensive like almost everything. I'll save my USA made primers for serious reloading and practice with reloads using the imports.

I thought I'd invest in some reloading components and I noticed that LG Rifle Primers are in short supply / unavailable. I haven't shopped for primers in a couple years, so it blindsided me. Since typically if one brand is unavailable, another brand is in stock. It makes me think I should invest in some .308 brass with small primer pockets. Thanks for any input

Excuse the decimal point on 7.62 Too late to edit

I bought some bullets a few years ago and they've been in storage til recently, so returning them isn't an option. I'm thinking they may be .762 X 39 or 300 AAC bullets because the chanellure is located a bit higher than the usual .762 X 51 bullets . Also the drive band is more cylindrical and transitions more abruptly where it meets the ogive, See attached pic. (sorry if 'drive band' is the incorrect term - I'm borrowing that from handgun reload terminology) The channellure being positioned where it is, means that if I crimp the neck on the chanellure the OAL is about .060" shorter than typical OAL. The bullet on the left in the pic is the one I'm referring to - Compared to a typical 150 gr .308 bullet Both bullets are 150 gr So I'll have to experiment But if anyone has experience with those type of bullets, and can provide any helpful info, that would be appreciated So - Thanks in advance

Old post - But Thanks anyhow I have a good quantity of LVR and found the info I need here BTW - I tried 46.5 gr LVR in my .358 Win, with Barnes 180 gr tipped bullets and I was very happy

Excellent - Thanks !

They're primed cases, and I'd prefer to keep the primer dry if possible

I bought some pulled bullets and empty primed brass a few months ago that I'm just beginning to use . It was a pretty good deal, I haven't reloaded any of it yet and I'm about to find out how it goes. So I have a question - Some of the cases have a brownish substance smeared around the inside of the neck . A asked around and I was told that it's a sealant / adhesive that protects the loaded ammo from weather damage . The guy knew what the stuff is, but he didn't know how to remove it . Does anyone have any suggestions for dealing with that substance ? I tried a Q-Tip with some solvent on it and so far nothing I've tried will cut it. Or should I just ignore it ? Also any advice for getting pulled ammo to perform well - It's all FMJ and I figured that I could probably use it for practice at 100 yd paper targets. Advice appreciated - Thank You

I'm going to run a test tomorrow with some different springs and some reloads using the CCI primers that I usually use. Today i tried a .044" spring and the indentation is better - They fired - No misfires With a .042" spring which was actually lightened even further by tweaking the legs of the spring, I was having about a 20% misfire rate with the Lake City Ammo But 0% failure with my handloads. I'll attempt to get some quality pics with my digital camera - I can zoom in on a fly and focus on the hairs on it's back with that camera.

It all started to make more sense when I remembered that I also did a trigger job on my .308 hunting rifle Which also included a lighter hammer spring

So now I'm trying a few different hammer springs . The trigger kit I have came with springs in increments of .003" between .038" and .050" Of course the results are predictable, A harder trigger pull but no misfires. I'll just keep the stiff spring in it until I get some different ammo

My camera exaggerates some reflections and some shadows in close up shots. I should try taking some shots with a different camera - I need to read the instructions on how to interface it with this computer, first. I'm beginning to think that possibly I bought a box of 250 rounds of ammo that has primers that are too tough to work reliably in either of my rifles. It's sort of difficult to believe though.

My camera exaggerates some reflections and some shadows in close up shots. I should try taking some shots with a different camera - I need to read the instructions on how to interface it with this computer, first. I'm beginning to think that possibly I bought a box of 250 rounds of ammo that has primers that are too tough to work reliably in either of my rifles. It's sort of difficult to believe though.