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DustBuster's Achievements

  1. Sounds like this problem has been solved, Ehall. I also discovered that my bolt catch was too “tall” and was coming up on an empty lancer mag and catching the bolt carrier in the same spot, not in front of the bolt lugs. I didn’t have any bolt stops to compare at the time, so I just shaved a tiny bit off the Plastic follower on my Lancer to solve that. For a different bolt that I have, I might buy one of the Forward Controls stops because it looks pretty wide, which might solve the different issue I’m having with the different bolt. Good investigative work, Sherlock... Better than mine
  2. Take your hammer out and see if it still happens. Something messed up with seers maybe
  3. I put my barrel into a vise wrapped in Thick Leather. I’ve done this twice now. I have a fluted Barrel and was a tad concerned over stress concentrations directly on the flutes, but I only cranked the Vice just tight enough. As I reached about 50 ft-lbs Everthing started to slip but I got it done. My barrel tong needed to be set hard against the receiver slot side for best feed ramp lineup, so the slop in that slot was no concern.. Same exact procedure as using a reaction rod. Vice closer to barrel extension when doing barrel nut and closer to gas port when doing muzzle brake, to eliminate more internal torsional distance on the barrel itself. I think if you had a solid non-fluted barrel you could crush the living snot out of the barrel and it wouldn’t hurt anything. If I had a reaction rod I would use that.. When I crank on my Vice really tight, I hear some weird sounds, but I’m pretty sure it’s just my Vice whining and not the barrel cracking. An engineer would do a calculation using Poissons Ratio. I don’t think I reached yield stress of the steel though. The slop in the slot of the receiver got me slightly misaligned the first barrel I did with this method but on this second time, it didn’t matter, I got lucky. So in a nutshell, I think my upper did not suffer any twisting forces on it.
  4. Well, it has kind of a rectangle head..two rounded corner sides and the flats. The firing pin goes through it, so it will only assemble one way. When I took my bolt carrier apart to do the Headspace check the first time, I tried to put it back in the same orientation... but I think the cam pin is perfectly symmetrical so it doesn’t matter if you flip it 180 degrees. You’ll see when you tear apart your existing carrier. AR-10 armalite bolts/carriers/parts might be different, I’ve never messed with non-dpms stuff.
  5. My cam pins with my two dpms compatible bolts look exactly like that one. Roundish on the fore/aft and flat on the top and bottom.
  6. Ok Great CZ.. I guess the “never used but open box” die was sort of used, the picture catches the previous owner in a die lie. They screwed That adapter on and shucked a few shells and hopefully didn’t realize it sucked bad so they ought to sell it. Maybe this link should have been put in the Totally Addicted to Ordering Stuff through the mail category. Naturally I put an order for a specific deprime pin I needed to use with that sucker. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
  7. Yeah.... I wasn’t suggesting your gas block was to blame... 50% chance it’s a gas related, and I’d bet your longer gas tube is going to help the situation. I was just using you sort of to find about my sudden “under gas” problem. If you would have told me “ I’m using the KaK non-adjustable gas block”, I would have been a tad closer to diagnosing my new sort of related problem. I’m sure your block is ok. I bet my gas block is either clogged, smaller gas tunnel size, or is not centered on the gas port very good. Good luck on tests of your one at a time changes. Good Day Sir
  8. I am curious, what gas block are you using? I ask this because my first build with a rifle gas system and same buffer and equivalent spring worked perfectly. One jam using a lancer mag but about 500 other perfect cycles with that mag and pmags. I’ve since changed to a new barrel for accuracy reasons( same exact model of barrel), but I decided to use a different gas block. A KaK non-adjustable block. Now I have better accuracy with the new barrel but for the first time ever, I have about 25% failure for bolt to stay open on empty mag. This tells me I’m getting less Gas than I was before. My gas port is the same size as the perfect cycling port was. Gas Problem I have with this different gas block. What kind is yours? By the way, my gas tube even goes farther than the halfway point with both blocks. That isn’t my issue.
  9. I think you are right... The model number of the die is the same as the ones that look like they have just the standard threads that go all the way to the bottom... The 2nd picture from this Eeh Bay listing showed the standard threads. I just hope it’s not some kind of sub model made Only for other presses. Betcha it is just the previous owners press attachment screwed on it. Maybe somebody here has that kind of press and knows about this. I will find out in a week when this dewhicky shows up... tnx
  10. Hello Honkys, I have one die set so far... rcbs FL. Before I reload my spendy Lapua Brass, I’m going to experiment with the Forster Bushing Bump Die. Sizing the neck of a .308 while simultaneously bumping the shoulder is my desire, while leaving the Diameter of the main body alone in its fire-formed state. This may or may not work with a semi-auto, but I will be trying a few to see if I get feeding problems. My heavy buffer and spring are pretty powerful. I am not doing this for accuracy sake, but just to get as many reloads as I can out of this Lapua Brass a I have. Here is a picture for you all. I just bought this die on EeehBay, and when looking at the picture, I got a sick feeling in my stomach. Is there some kind of adapter thing screwed onto the normal die threads? I definetely cannot use this die if I cannot unscrew that adapter thing off. I do see the normal threads above the base nut. Anybody know what that adapter thing is?
  11. Thanks for Reply 98z5v.... Yes, I agree and understand your info. I had learned to do this before I had purchased my No-Go gauge. My Delimna: I have two bolt carriers now. The one I have been using perfectly satisfies the Go and NO Go with this new barrel chamber. The other new Bolt Carrier of mine I have never used, but it Failed my No-Go gauge test by .002. This sucks because this particular bolt has a Small Diameter pin which would be “perfect” for this Lapua Palma brass I’m planning on using. I’m not about using this small primer small flashhole brass for Supreme 1000 yard shots, but only because just before I bought the brass, all I could find was the small primers. Now since I’ve already purchased the Severly spendy brass, other normal primers have popped up available and I say “Ohh Damn, I just blew a lot of extra money I didn’t need to!” Since I did though, I kind of am excited to use this new brass with either bolt but the one that might be advantageous for a a small primer, having a small firing pin, happens to Headspace to big. I suppose if I just necked sized on that special brass I could mitigate the effects of the .002 extra stretch which will happen on this brass if I use the “bad” bolt. I did make a fairly accurate comparator and have been using that and since I have bought the No-go, I’ve discovered that I was .0015 off of being exact with my comparator. No big deal I just add that to my readings now. If it were any other brass I wouldn’t care so much and I would just discover what’s gonna happen after I shoot and reload like your suggested method. I did send a request to exchange the no-go failure bolt but I kinda of doubt I will get a reply. My logic is telling me that probably F/L resizing the body of the brass probably contributes more to Brass growth than having a bolt .002 out of spec.
  12. Side Info: I measured the unfired brass an it is an average of 1.626 to the Headspace Datum. My chamber will be around 1.632 I suspect. Good bolt Brass initial Fireformed Stretch=+ .006 ”Bad” Bolt Brass initial Fireformed Stretch=+.008 Bad for Expensive Brass? Fewer re-uses?
  13. So, I bought this OVERPRICED but high Quality brass. Lapua. Havent shot it yet. I have a brand new barrel that I just did a headspace check on. It passed the test on Both the Go and No-Go. Clymer No-Go (1.634) wouldn’t close. All is good with that bolt. I then check another bolt, and this one did close on the No-Go. I put a piece of tape on the No-Go and I measured and calculated it to be (1.636) This other Bolt would not close on this modified NO-Go. So I figure it is an excessive .002. With the first few firing of the new brass, the new case will Stretch more than ideal to fit my chamber. Do you all think that I will have much Shorter life of this brass with the extra initial Case Stretch of .002 ? I don’t plan on bumping shoulders back more than .002 each time I FL resize. Whatchyou all Think? Ask for exchange on this Failed Bolt or get extra stretch possibly shortening expensive brass life?
  14. DustBuster


    Ding Ding Ding, you win, Doc. Well, if you two needed some of those, I hope u got them, they are gone now. I’ve passed up two chances to buy in the last month and I hope I don’t regret it. If the vaccine mandate war requires more than 2100 bullets, I will wish I had them or I’ll be dead.( just kidding) Or if my crappy shooting at paper targets and trying to discover the ultimate hunting load takes me beyond 2100 rnds, then I will regret not buying those.
  15. DustBuster


    Midway has em right now... too expensive for me... Seems like they are getting more available...
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