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DustBuster

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Everything posted by DustBuster

  1. Thanks for Reply 98z5v.... Yes, I agree and understand your info. I had learned to do this before I had purchased my No-Go gauge. My Delimna: I have two bolt carriers now. The one I have been using perfectly satisfies the Go and NO Go with this new barrel chamber. The other new Bolt Carrier of mine I have never used, but it Failed my No-Go gauge test by .002. This sucks because this particular bolt has a Small Diameter pin which would be “perfect” for this Lapua Palma brass I’m planning on using. I’m not about using this small primer small flashhole brass for Supreme 1000 yard shots, but only because just before I bought the brass, all I could find was the small primers. Now since I’ve already purchased the Severly spendy brass, other normal primers have popped up available and I say “Ohh Damn, I just blew a lot of extra money I didn’t need to!” Since I did though, I kind of am excited to use this new brass with either bolt but the one that might be advantageous for a a small primer, having a small firing pin, happens to Headspace to big. I suppose if I just necked sized on that special brass I could mitigate the effects of the .002 extra stretch which will happen on this brass if I use the “bad” bolt. I did make a fairly accurate comparator and have been using that and since I have bought the No-go, I’ve discovered that I was .0015 off of being exact with my comparator. No big deal I just add that to my readings now. If it were any other brass I wouldn’t care so much and I would just discover what’s gonna happen after I shoot and reload like your suggested method. I did send a request to exchange the no-go failure bolt but I kinda of doubt I will get a reply. My logic is telling me that probably F/L resizing the body of the brass probably contributes more to Brass growth than having a bolt .002 out of spec.
  2. Side Info: I measured the unfired brass an it is an average of 1.626 to the Headspace Datum. My chamber will be around 1.632 I suspect. Good bolt Brass initial Fireformed Stretch=+ .006 ”Bad” Bolt Brass initial Fireformed Stretch=+.008 Bad for Expensive Brass? Fewer re-uses?
  3. So, I bought this OVERPRICED but high Quality brass. Lapua. Havent shot it yet. I have a brand new barrel that I just did a headspace check on. It passed the test on Both the Go and No-Go. Clymer No-Go (1.634) wouldn’t close. All is good with that bolt. I then check another bolt, and this one did close on the No-Go. I put a piece of tape on the No-Go and I measured and calculated it to be (1.636) This other Bolt would not close on this modified NO-Go. So I figure it is an excessive .002. With the first few firing of the new brass, the new case will Stretch more than ideal to fit my chamber. Do you all think that I will have much Shorter life of this brass with the extra initial Case Stretch of .002 ? I don’t plan on bumping shoulders back more than .002 each time I FL resize. Whatchyou all Think? Ask for exchange on this Failed Bolt or get extra stretch possibly shortening expensive brass life?
  4. DustBuster

    BR-2

    Ding Ding Ding, you win, Doc. Well, if you two needed some of those, I hope u got them, they are gone now. I’ve passed up two chances to buy in the last month and I hope I don’t regret it. If the vaccine mandate war requires more than 2100 bullets, I will wish I had them or I’ll be dead.( just kidding) Or if my crappy shooting at paper targets and trying to discover the ultimate hunting load takes me beyond 2100 rnds, then I will regret not buying those.
  5. DustBuster

    BR-2

    Midway has em right now... too expensive for me... Seems like they are getting more available...
  6. Yep, I feel your pain. I want one So Bad now! For TwoHundy it’s a drop in the bucket when the cash is flowing good.... There are some circuit parts online for making them from 1kw to 3kw...for less money, but all the time and risk assembling and soldering adds up to more cost and possible frustration. Good luck and leave it to Lane to discover some thing like a Keurig machine to modify, wind some transformers and Presto, instant Annealing. Wish it was that simple. I guess my next morning project might be to scrape some cap gum and try to make ten primers, haha. Or I should rather do something productive around the house like you... I’m good at neglecting proper chores.
  7. I’m about to start resizing stuff for the third time, before I do that I will be annealing probably with the torch and a socket. I gave up on the wooden cog machine to shuffle my brass automatically. I just don’t pump through brass fast enough to warrant such a crazy machine. I will watch the induction video, however... maybe I can rig up something that hooks to my alternator (car engine) and microwave the brass that way. No sense in reinventing wheels. I just spent an hour scrubbing 100 primer pockets with a drill motor brush.... Takes me a week to finish up a batch like that.... PityFull !
  8. The white box Winchester stuff... usually cheaper (20-23$) maybe it says BALL.... I might try some of that in future if only to get brass. My Barrel is labeled .308 Win and I think the company says it can shoot either .308 or 7.62.
  9. Merry Christmas to all and to all a fresh box of .308 ammo. I’ve enjoyed all your rants and raves amongst my learning of this platform... I’m saving up some more stupid questions to perturb Santa T here.... All of you seem to have big bushy beards and get a little bit too Jolly at times, go easy on the Tom and Jerry’s you all, Happy New Year coming up
  10. I am not HE. I’ve just heard someone who may think he’s he, but that is ok but this person gives our true freedom fighters a bad name, taking for granted the ability in our country to have our means of liberty and defense. Ha ha Unforgiven, yes Fentanyl may have spilled into someone’s CornFlakes or Crack... I get some high and mighty ideas and feelings at times, but if I’m proposing those ideas along with asking for input, I take the input that is given and don’t whine about it. If info or feedback is given to me at all, I’m thankful for it even though the feedback is not what I wanted... I move on with posting about some other topic and still do what I want sometimes..Anyway, I tend to stand in the middle sometimes and shall retreat to the middle for now... When I have a topic that I truly would defend with heartfelt earnest, then my adrenaline could come forth... Anyway, cheap shots from the middle I have taken, and I am not Yoda, so I will Refrain and try not again to do so unless good mediation is the result. In fairness, I shall throw a cheapshot towards an expert here and say that Ha ha, I’ve never burned up a motorcycle engine using the wrong kind of gas or oil... Long Live the King and it is not me
  11. My gas port is .093 and I have a KaK Heavy buffer and their spring and have never had one problem with cycling. Carbine length stock and rifle length port. My el-cheapo adjustable gas block has been screwed with twice but never seemed to do anything noticeable...I probably don’t need it. Although at the moment I’m not sure if it’s nearly closed or nearly full open or somewhere in the middle... For a barrel test I’m going to do I will be attempting to shut her completely off and fire without my gas tube: So Maybe adjustable gas block is still sort of advisable
  12. SubGrub, exchanging ideas and information for reliable answers based on experience is not a equal exchange rate... Might need to pay twice or three times for the single answer your looking for... One cannot know exactly the specific reason a return question is asked, humer the experts, in humble fashion... That’s what I try to do... Ive only heard of a binary trigger once before from a comment locally to where I live, and it sounds cool but dangerous as hell and I personally will just try to become a better marksman and leave cool things for the show offs
  13. I once had a dream here on this forum, or at least it was a Pipe Dream to make a clear or translucent gas tube for the gun. I wonder if I was smokin the same duby as Grub
  14. I bought a 18” fluted Faxon, for my dpms (gen1) low rail receiver set from Daytona Tac. I bought the barrel last January. It sure looks like a dream. It headspaced perfectly... Shooting it has not seemed very good... I might have gotten a lemon, but still have two more tests to rule out other reasons for the innacuracy. They don’t have a MOA gaurentee, but an email to them just recently brought a Happy response and the guy said their gonna send me out a new one. That bore inside looks awesome and it’s hand lapped, just hope the second one I get works better... They have some cheaper bolt carriers if you don’t need the forward assist... I’m gonna give them a second chance... I didn’t even buy it straight from them but it is covered by their warrantee. Match series. Other people here have more experience with Barrel companies than I do. The one thing I love about that Faxon, it fits so snug you gotta heat up the receiver and freeze the barrel just to get it together. Gonna make it challenging to get it apart to put in the better barrel...That is to say if the last tests I do prove that it is a lemon barrel. Plenty of other happy customers out there though... decent price for them.
  15. I saw that method online, maybe that was You! A nnealion ways apparently to soften brass! Yep smaller motors and a lighter box will be Version 2. I’m so stubborn I might just try to finish this Tank. Thank you guys for your advice.... I also just happen to have a Frikken Cannon Printer that just konked out. Version two might start with a printer breakdown... Thanks Guys....Here is my prototype... ( patent is in no danger of pending ) 301CB154-7A49-44F8-9403-3B4932E594CC.MOV
  16. Well, now I know how inventors like Edison, or Lane feel like sometimes. ProtoTypes can sometimes make you feel like quitting entirely and throwing the whole shebang in the scrap pile. This is what will mostly happen to my most recent project. I did some research... 5 basics methods and maybe more to anneal. 1. Horizontal Turntable with torches/torch 2. Coffee can/bake pan on side with a slot cut out and a little motor and ramp, also with the torch. 3. Instead of coffee can/bake pan on side, two little round rollers powdered by small motor; one to cause the brass to spin and one to feed the brass to the spin/torch area from a hopper of sorts. 4. Inductive annealing with a turbocharged Mag Coil. 5. Socket or holder on a drill with the torch in the other hand. I chose to try an build something like #2 or #3... more leaning forward #3. I happened to have a Ceiling fan motor... Mistake number 1. Too fast. So I went to ace and bought a 16 dollar fan speed dial controller... which did slow the Lowest speed down to probably like 100 rpm... I discovered a little braking pressure on the ceiling fan would slow it down even more. I then proceeded to think of a way to link the ceiling fan motor to some kind of rotating shafts. I couldn’t use the ceiling motor shaft to act as a drive shaft, because of its design, since the wires of the ceiling fan actually exit the motor, inside the shaft itself. The motor is what spins around unimpinged. So I learned a little bit about making wooden gears on-line. I actually brought my old mountain bike inside the garage to steal its sprocket and chain, but I couldn’t get the crank off. I halted that attempt. More to Follow: I have to go. Basically what I did was attach a small 4” diameter wooden gear to the ceiling motor, and meshed it into a 12” wooden gear... for a 1/3 angular velocity reduction. That works but was it was a pain in the ash fine tune fitting the band saw cut teeth. The thin finely turns decently but is LOUD as a Team if Shoed Clydesdales delivering Beer to Mr. 98. I can Brake the lowest reduced speed down to appropriate rotational velocity but it is too close to stalling and burning up if I do that. I now realize that the whole thing will go to the scrap bucket and I think for now I will be looking for a socket that fits my brass for method #5. Ceiling Fan Motors Suck
  17. Hi louu, I’m just curious about your tight .308 Springfield chamber. Do you know what it’s headspace dimension is? I believe mine Faxon Barrel Match chamber is around 1.633 based on measurements, but in reality I still only have “relative comparator” measurements. However, I definitely know that I do Not need a small base die for my rounds, I’m still experimenting on what the Least amount of resizing I can get away with with my RCBS full length die. Do you know what your chamber headspace measurment is?
  18. When I see for the first time some primer pockets big and loose I will think of your Ammo 98. Squeezing every molecule out of those cases shooting Optimum velocity super rockets towards Arizona bullseyes....If you didn’t sleep in because of a raging campfire and whiskey PowWow
  19. Interesting... I have never come across any one of those three situations yet...I’ve have not yet reloaded twice fired brass... I’ve picked a few loads out to fine tune for accuracy sake, and I’ve seen with the twice fired brass now probably what is close to my chamber size... So hopefully when I get those twice fired brass reloaded with a little less shoulder bump, I will have the best solution for any future new brass I get. I have a WFinestTrimmer2 on the way. I have not tried to feel with a paper clip the thinning inside the brass yet, but am curious to see if I can detect it. Thanks for your tips shaffe48. I suppose by the time I burn through my bottles of powder I will be closer to understanding this fine art. I hear a Tumbler in the basement going on now, but it is filled with rocks and not brass yet so I am sad. In a few weeks I will see if I can get in on that action.
  20. Correction to my previous statement... after thinking about it all abit more and rereading Shaffe48s statement about stretch at the casehead zone... I now realize... the lengthening of brass is not due to what shoulder position is chosen at the secondary sizing period, but has already been decided by the previous shoulder position and Firing of the round. That is why I was not seeing a difference between the brass growth with my two different shoulder bumps. I will need to fire the rounds again before I see a difference. I see it clearer now. Thanks
  21. Yes, thank you Shaffe, and like 392Heminut stated, the brass growth is irregardless of shoulder setback. So far I haven’t seen a difference. Die set to the shell holder or some bit upward, doesn’t matter for the case growing and trim needs. And since I am a long way from needing optimum Case sizing for accuracy sake, I won’t be worrying to much. My chamber is tighter than the no-go gauge. I’m very glad I listened to advice here and found that out. Dealing with thousandths of an inch precision is a new world to me. The son of my boss is taking gunsmithing courses, and he told me his beard hair was exactly 3 thousandths, he used it as a shim or something like that. Haha
  22. Good to hear from you experts. I made up a a couple of dummy rounds .003 under my fireformed brass, and they loaded and ejected without problem. I think they were even sized based on one of the smallest of my my fireformed samples. I think my 0.003 sized shoulder length is barely to the minimum of saami cartridge spec... 1.627”. I’m not concerned about sizing for better accuracy, more so for just finding the best overall way to do it for this one gun. I measured some of the cases I sized originally and they were .009 set back from the fireformed cartridge, which seemed a little much. I suppose the fireformed brass weren’t even totally tight in the chamber yet having been only used once. A little extra safety tolerance in there for this newbie as I’m learning. I like the sound of 98s method. Using the brass in the shell holder to set the die. Similar to what the bullet seating instructions tell me to do. Damn daylight savings, which now prevents me from getting out to shoot after work. It’ll be awhile before I can test out my range of loads. Happy Veterans Day tomorrow to you Noble Warriors
  23. Yep, thank you Shaffe... I will have to make up a dummy round and see if it at least chambers ok. You are right that the neck growth is from the whole sizing process, decreasing the diameter of everything and is not just due to any setback. My home made comparator measures from just a bit too far back on the shoulder, according to minimum Sammi for 308 cartridges( 1.634 -.007) Mine measures from 1.624. I don’t think this matters too much for what I’m comparing... but I think I will make another one and try not to exceed the .400 diameter at all. Take Care
  24. Hi Guys and Gals, I went to town on 100 cases, then realized maybe I’m squishing them down more than really I should. Ive read now thousands of words about this subject here and elsewhere. My necks on .308 pmc were stretching .0085-.0095 average; lubing the inside of necks and had the die set to 1/4- turn past contact with shell holder. The I decide to investigate about the large neck stretching. Last night I experimented by turning the RCBS die counter clockwise. I made myself a comparator for measurement close to the shoulder datum and began to experiment. I finally got it so instead of bumping the shoulder back .007+ (1/4 turn on die past contact), I was getting (-.003). Before I stopped at that I even got it down to only -.001 shoulder setback). I measured the over all growth each and every time and the brass growth was ALWAYS large, 0.0085 no matter what. Heavier lube on inside and outside of neck, slow pull out of ball thingy in neck. Seems like varying shoulder set back on these PMC cases does not matter as far as brass growth. Should I stay at -.003 setback from Once fire formed pmc brass? I was Factory ammo to start with on those cases. The factory setback vs fireform was about the same as my initial die setup( -.007+) It seems strange to me that varying shoulder setback did nothing for size increase of brass. Maybe all that it might change for me is accuracy +- or chambering issues.
  25. I’ve got two boxes of Hornady bullets to load up and they may be my last, Let’s Go Hornady, to the politically correct dumpster. Poo poo
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