DustBuster

I just see a Lantac for an Automatic/Semi for over 300 bucks. I don’t know if it can be used for DPMS or if it’s a good brand

Greetings fm WY.... we just got snow today, work cancelled so I will be studying shooting stuff here some. Good luck on your build BlackSheep, mine is waiting on truck carrying my no go gauge which is probably in a blizzard or in the ditch

Tack 14, I derailed your Intro, if you want to add here, I owe you.... well I have Zero confidence in the milspec Trigger I have, 65% confidence in my shooting “luck” and 99% confidence in my yet to be fired barrel. It’s time to build up some fundamentals then. I backboned an elk last season, with my 30-06. Piss poor waste of precious Chops....After that I swore to myself I’d shoot good from there on out. I held high by a guess amount. I knew the range was about 240... had bipod on the ground, but did not squeeze trigger that I can remember and I definitely did not have the rifle trajectory mastered in memory... Things need to change for me with any gun I shoot....

I don’t have the experience to fix a loose barrel extension, so I returned that first barrel of mine for the Faxon. You fixed one of the rare loose extensions before...Sending stuff back is a major pain... Here is a question for you 98z5v and then I will comment no further on Tacks thread... How much percentage of a shooters success in tight groups is Confidence? Is there any help attributed to confidence in gear?

Hey Now...I maybe should not have brought your previous quote into this thread, but it did pertain to the fact that Earlier in this thread of Tack 14’s, Hello Tack 14 by the way, I had notified him of my problem with a barrel of a manufacturer of which he had bought other parts from ( a gun in this thread), and I was just saying how I may have done disservice to that company by mentioning their name like it was a bad product without the clarification which I just added. I used your Quote as an example of fixing some Manufactures defect without necessarily badmouthing the company...You and I did both talk to Tack 14 about Barrel Extensions..my very limited experience with One of Two(ever) and you probably on experience with about 400 or more. On a side Note: My new Faxion Barrel extension was too tight for the receiver so I froze the barrel and Heated the receiver at about 250 degrees for about 20 minutes, then greased up the barrel extension and it slipped right in, having to Bop it hard for the last 1/8 till it bottomed out. That’s how I’m going to shoot such tight groups in the future, because of a Superb Thermal connection. These threads bounce back and forth sometimes..I was just adding to something previous...

THIS IS A QUOTE FROM 98Z5V addressing a chewed up Buffer from a possible out of spec Lower. “I didn't bitch, complain,demand a refund... I fixed it - with a Tubbs Carrier Weight System - which added 0.080" tothe length of the BCG. THAT pushed the buffer off it's retaining pin, in the lower. I never talked about that here by manufacturer-name, and I've even refused to state the manufacturer, when I discussed the issue I had, but what my Tubb CWS fixed.” Now this is me DustBuster: I got this from a different thread and didn’t know how to transport it to this one so I just copied it. In defense of KaK, who I named by name which is not very sporting, The owner of this company did Immediately Email me after I notified them of the loose barrel extension. The secretary didn’t email me, The Owner of KaK did. He agreed with me that it wasn’t “good”, and they paid for shipping back for a refund or exchange. They just didn’t have any more 18” barrel blanks so they could t make me a new one. I got the refund. I may sometime try a barrel from them in the future.... It sure did look good and was packaged with care... it just slipped through the cracks. Gotta go... GoodBye

I won’t post any new Topics and/Or Questions, until I can prove to You All I’m an “Expert, haha”Marksmen and shoot a 3/4” group at 100 yards with this thing. I’ll give 98 a break from my Rabble until then. I appreciate every body’s comments so far. Morse Code: - - . - - - - - - - . . -... - . - - .

I’m sorry for the picture above.... my adrenaline got up and I tried to edit it but couldn’t think what to say instead in time. I do talk too much and sometimes think I’m witty when it’s not. I’m human and I make errors. I do respect you highly and will cease all posts till after a couple of months if I can shoot a quarter sized group at 100. I flip myself off now. Goodnight I lost my cool. Bye

This is actually what my Dads hand looks like cuz he cut his finger off with a skillsaw , ripping a 2x4 and it bound up

Whatever... when a person builds one of these things, makes his own friggen jig, friggen breaks a fukin carbide bit of first plunge and then still has to friggen use it for 16 more agonizing passes, nearly tears through the magwall on changing to a bit with cutting length 1” on a change, makes a friggen bore sight jig, makes a friggen hole alignment tester.... makes a gol dam mag block to hold everything, gets parts for months, exchanges some..... you tell me that is not the real fukin thing—- you tell me that I need to just shoot the thing and stop thinking about it—- your the one that Is getting dillusional about it...of course I will see what is going to happen... but You know what? It won’t surprise me that much because I will be prepared. How much practice did you military guys do? poop tons. How much preparation.do Hunters do? poop tons. How much friggen Pilot training now is done in a simulator? Shittons. Now I’m done with you. Peace. I only ever specifically asked you one question... and you only half ass answered it. Sometimes I only bring poop up to get something to talk about... But apparently it Irritates you know so now I will stop entirely. Done with th

I’m just jabbin you in the ribs, funnin, I could have said Trigger sear Getting to Know, instead I said Pretend Shots... I’m not refusing any knowledge, but I don’t always just go with the flow,,,How did Mr. Armalites figure out his system? He tried all sorts of different tests “ Virtual Pretending” to make it work. I’m doing the same thing along with Using Facts from you guys to learn the system... I ain’t bucking the system... don’t get me wrong. the only thing left for me to learn is what is the best bipod... and you’ve already professed it is the magpul... I probably will end up buying one, but I’ll probably strap a couple of bundled spaghetti noodles together and m-lok em in and I just might discover a home made thing that makes Magpul look like magpie poop. But I might fail, and that’s ok too. I sincerely appreciate all your help with some of my good questions and I didn’t mean to irritate you with any dumb things. I can’t go shoot the thing till I go gauge it, so I got a week. My brain doesn’t stop...I’ve already decided not to risk paper thicknesses behind the brass as a test... advice I take from u guys...

Yeah That makes total sense. I just fired 6 pretend shots, and it all seems great. I was expecting Whaaaam, steel hammer crashing into dummy primer, but it was a fairly quiet little “tick” Sounded the same for the eraser Primer. I think I’ll save 10 bucks and maybe just carve a little harder rubber into one last dummy case. After the gun is worn in good, I’m sure dry firing on empty chamber isn’t going to worry me in the least. Pretty much the only thing to do now is shoot the thing. I pulled the bolt out and answered my own dang question of how much travel the firing pin has, looks to be about 3/32”-1/8” when I shut the receiver and the tension comes off bolt stop, it is in fully bottomed out position, so I have no worry about extra pounding on that. Pretty cheap little part anyway. Same with the firing pin. Case Closed. Maybe my name should be Captain OCD or Corroded BrainPan, Please no!

Ha ha ha. Yes yes, I concur. I’m like a little kid who can’t wait for Christmas morning. But I forgot to put a cool little SnapCap on my list from Midway, with a nifty internal spring in it. Like Matt said, the internet can be tricky.... I had just refreshed on a Two stage trigger from another web site and I interpreted it pretty wrong. Yep. I am super psyched that I put the extra 3/16” longer gas tube in my gun, however, so I’m profiting on another dumb rookies question that got answered by you! So hopefully, some day, you will be able to breath a sigh of relief when I can help you to satisfy any other Virtual rifle shooters questions, like myself.. haha Good evening Matt and 98..My very last post of this thread will be a picture of my primer dimples.... I hope those things are dimpled dead center... it’s always puzzled/bugged me when I see that they aren’t.

I’m not sure how I will eventually like a Two stage trigger, with one extra click that happens when squeezing the trigger. I think the first click happens when the disconnecter disengages after pressure is let up on the trigger, and this click will not be noticed I’m guessing. It’s the second click of a Two stage that might be weird. Im gonna be hammering away tomorrow morning on 4 of the 5 cartridges seen in this picture. The Live round on the Left I need to separate into a different secure location. The four dry fire primers I am going to use in my Dummy loads are #2 Bic, and 3 Unknown grade of AL. I probably will also leave the chamber empty on my Fifth DryFire test, and use my ears to detect any harsher sounds on the firing pin stop, or of sound of collision with my bolt stop. I should disassemble the dam bolt carrier to see for myself where this stop positions the firing pins movement. I have not bathed my bolt carrier in lube and that thing could be stuck in the mid range of it’s travel from the factory....just waiting to allow the hammer to bash my bolt stop. Once I know for sure that this won’t happen, I will feel much better with letting the hammer fall on a completely empty chamber. Ill get a good feel of my take up/Wall/sear/and creep. These are all pretty new to me. I am not experienced enough to start filing away at my trigger! I am skilled enough to superglue aluminum and eraser into some brass, however.

That’s a darn good idea... I was thinking something like very hard but flexible plastic/rubber, but didn’t figure out what kind. I was just at ace and I thought about brass rod but I betcha that’s too hard, so I bought aluminum rod. Cut a chunk, glue it in, but only good for one use! I think I’ll try harder rubber than eraser tip but maybe that is actually The perfect material, thanks for idea. I might try aluminum first just to see how the dent looks.... when I fire the gun I’ll see more accurate evidence of the gas pressures and stuff, but this will be good just as a lab test. I know the experts are scoffing at the trivial nature of my ideas...some day I’ll get serious and buy the proper equipment for gunsmithing, just not today...I will post a picture of my virgin aluminum primer punch.

Welcome from WY.... I just got done building one. I have a few Kak parts in mine, extended mag release...Heavy Buffer.. but I got a Lemon from them as far as barrels... The barrel extension was loose on a new 18” midgas barrel. I went with a Faxon and I haven’t shot it yet but it looks good so far

I’ll think about it today Matt, tnx for info... So I weighed my new weopon, 9.6 LBS, as you can see. Daytona Tactical UpperLower, Heavy Fluted 18” match series rifle gas barrel, Gun Tech handguard, Cheap Mentium-“USA” Sights and Adjustable Gas Block, Cheap AR Stoner Sling, Magpul Str Stock,Lancer Magazine I’m pretty happy about it. My 30-06 next to it weighed 10.2 Lbs with that heavy bipod and scope. There are a few slight mistakes in the final product. I think from factory the gas hole was drilled a tiny bit off center and it definitely doesn’t land inline with a Flute Groove or Rise. Then when I installed the barrel, it might have been ever so slightly mid aligned from perfect feed ramp centers. My trigger pin holes are nearly level, but maybe a teeny bit off level. The hammer pin holes are a Teeny More bit off level, so my eye can detect non-plumbness by maybe a degree or two. And last but not least the trigger slot may be binding ever so slightly at front. The Pretravelbof Trigger is actually about an 1/8 or 3/16” so I guess she’s about right.... just squeezed it this morning and it feels pretty good actually, but a Hard Poundage for sure... not much creep or slack before wall. I know I’m an idiot but today I am going to fill my Dummy rounds primer pocket with a sawed off piece of brass dowel for a dry fire cushion. Ace will maybe have those. About as crazy as someone who reloads primers....haha

Okay, I will stop this line of questioning... thanks for the input. The front of my trigger slot might need to be enlarged a tiny bit. I feel that my trigger could be binding in the front even before it meets with the saftey slot, thus limiting the amount it can be squeezed. It works fine, with the upper pivoted away, the follower catches and then when unqueezed, the sear seams good. Then hammer falls when squeezed a tiny amount.. but that is all that the trigger can move, a tiny amount, barely perceptible to the eye. Someday when my Larue come in, I will see how that baby performs. My FCP is plenty deep, more than 1.25...I will post a picture Tomorrow Morning of my sweet First Timer lead launcher. Hard ass work making one of these critters and I gaurantee that No friggen criminal could or would have the talent or gumption to make it happen. I’m proud of all of the crew at this forum and am lucky to learn hobby smith precision from elsewhere and here. DustBuster aka Dirtbag(wrestling nickname) I actually don’t like DustBuster, can the Webmaster let me change my name?

Yeah, I’ve read that dryfiring an LR is ok, but I kinda don’t want to just in case it slams some into my bolt stop...which I could file some to prevent...or file the hammer a tiny bit.. but I’m pretty that there is no problem there. As far as the milspec trigger question, I was meaning how much horizontal pull distance is typical? Before the pivot action of it is stopped by the rabbited Saftey slot. ??

Yeah I thought about snap caps but why buy one when I’ve got a sammi sized dummy round.... I might fill the primer pocket with something hardish. So 98z5v, how much do you think Millspec trigger pull on a cocked hammer should be, when squeezing it? Only moving a whisker, or an 1/8, or more like 3/16 to a 1/4? Think back to when you used to have a crappy trigger!

So, it looks like I just finished my DPMS 308 build just before the commies try to the disarm lawful. Such a shame. As Charlton Heston once said,” You’ll have to pull this outta my cold Strong Hands?” Maybe I got that quote wrong. Anyway, I am waiting on a rental of some NoGo-Gos, and I want to test the hammer out on a dummy round DryFire. I want to fill my empty primer void in the brass to help take some of the shock from the firing pin. I will be taking the bolt apart for the goNogo tests, but I may not be able to see what I’m curious about. Does the firing pin on each shot, slam into its stop, cushioned sligjtly by the hardness of the primer? Also, how much wiggle is there in the pin? Right now, when my lower is separated, the hammer puts pressure on the bolt catch. When I close the upper on to it, the pressure is gone so I Hope my hammer doesn’t compress the firing pin further from where it is in closed position, putting a blow onto the bolt catch. When I practice hammer fall on my thumb, when the lower is open, my trigger squeeze distance is only about an 1/8” tops. Is this typical or is something not positioned perfectly? Any knowledge will be greatly appreciated and I will reward each and everyone of you with a picture of my work of art ( which has been benefited by this groups Help immensely)

Ok, so for shooting Prairie Dogs, I would put the Dot an inch left of their right Ear looking at me... and whaloooooop. I could get used to parallel probably easier than horizontal crossfire. Good Day....

Yes, I understand... I guess if then it is attached on the side or at 10:30, I would have to know if it is either parallel the whole way to my bullet path( not counting hold over/under) or if it crosses the bullet path at the horizontal zero at some point. That is basically logic and I could choose the option,,, but yes I wouldn’t trust it as much as my iron sight or a scope... I would bet the best way to mount it would be over or under the barrel, not at 45 degrees 10:30 so as to not have zeros to deal with and to confuse

Hello.... Every step of my progress towards a lr-308 leads me to more experimentation and more questions. Here is a picture of my ElCheapo open sights, and upper assembly. It is attached to a wooden base, of which I also fastened my new El Cheapo Laser. It may not hold up to the shock of a 308, but I have read a review on how to fix it with epoxy when something seperates inside the laser. For now it is being used as my bore sighter. I have it aligned through a spent Casing and my finger on the front of the muzzle helped me to align that zone in the center. It is right now better than an eyeball looking through my bore. My big question isn’t about boresighting...It’s about actually using a laser for aiming. Let Say you have the laser attached to the handgaurd... If it dead center below the handgaurd, I can see that elevation-wise, there probably will be only one zero. If the laser is attached to the side but is about 45 degrees upward with the bore being the center...Would you want the bullet to always hit parallel to the laser, and just know that you always shoot a constant let say 1.25” to the right or left of the laser dot? Or would you zero azmithally at some yardage, basically splitting the difference in the medium range zones... left of the laser before the zero yardage, and right of the laser farther out...Anybody follow my thought?

Yes, I could feel the pressure applied with the crimps, and I believe with the ammo I loaded up, they weren’t too severe as to bulge... my Dad Set the die as per instructions. The shorter trimmed brass barely got a crimp and the longer trimmed brass got a proper good feeling crimp. My average brass was 2.012 and the crimp die was set to those I think. The tight fitting bolt happened on Non-crimped Dummy rounds, however, so I have yet to see if the crimped ones feel tighter yet, or go in with less force... don’t know yet. I will be letting my charging handle fly, and soaking my bolt in a good Oily marinade. Both good tips ...I also need to oil the upper receiver bolt track more, I see carakote starting to wear. I have oiled up those tracks but I need to get them good and greasy... the oil is no longer there. I still have tons of AeroShell 33 and maybe I should just put that on the bolt tracks and lugs... after the Mobile 1 marinade. Next Monday I will be sending aluminum chips into my hair and the gravel outside.. Won’t be long before I see if this thing will actually work. gotta bore site it, I lost an eBay bid for a SiteMark cartridge laser, but I have a 45 dollar paint ball green lase with m-lok attachment coming. I probably could point that through the bore throu a empty brass primer pocket, and check the laser at the muzzle end through another centered hole on a piece of tape... aim that rigid setup at something 25 yards out, and set my eyeball to the open sights, adjusting. I have bore sighted my 30-06 Winchester just looking through the bore, trying to eyeball the center of the tunnel, but This is the new high tech era of lasers, I might as well make my own laser bore contraption!