DustBuster

I have the exact same barrel and just like jTallen says, HEAT. I did it different than the video, I haven’t watched it yet. I put my receiver in oven on some bricks at about 300?degrees after I put my Barrel in the freezer the previous night. Then after about 20 minutes in the oven, I quickly smeared some barrel grease on it and the two slid right together. I gentle tap with a board and a hammer on the back of the receiver made it seat completely the last 1/8 inch. Sweet thermal fit. Eye ball the feed ramps and make sure you like that alignment before it all gets normal temp again. My receiver was also smaller inner diameter than the barrel extension outer diameter. Faxon seems to do it that way.

Well, the barrel might say Heavy in its description, but it only weighs 2.2 lbs and looks kinda thin to me. The compensator I had didn’t seem to be keeping the barrel tip down, so I doubt this “Brake” will have that much extra loudness or effect, the holes are bigger but they aren’t huge side ports like the other brakes one sees. I’ll give you guys a report, I looked in the mailbox and the Tuner Brake was there.

Will Do... The same day I tested a new scope on my Lr-308, which did not yield better results, I shot a three shot group with my 30-06, all three shots touching eachother at 100. Granted, those bullets happened to be reloads using Hornady SST bullets. It was just random, unworked up powder in those cases though. The barrel of my 30-06 or its bedding or something just seems to like anything, much more than my LR. We will see if I can fool my LR’s Barrel into liking the loads I have for it, with a tuner, better than it has been. So far it’s been my ugly duckling rifle that I Love since it’s birth but it can’t hit or I can’t hit with it the broadside of the barn.

Hello friends, I haven’t posted for a while now. I built myself a swell functioning gun with a 18” Faxon Heavy Fluted Barrel. I tried something the last time I shot it, an idea related to controlling Barrel whip and the harmonics of it, etc. Ive been getting really inconsistent groups with a large array of different loads. Different manufacturers of factory load, different bullet weights, and good prone shooting stability, all have not seemed to help me with my accuracy. A new better scope even did not fix the situation. So, I tried something a tad bit different. I found myself a hose clamp, and secured it right around the base of my muzzle device( a simple compensator). I then shot the best 5 shot group I ever acclomplished with two different types of bullets at 100 yards. I then shifted the clamp abit towards the breech, and the groups went wide again. I shifted it towards the muzzle, and they were wide again. I tried two different positions but could not find one as good as that first random clamp spot. This was weak evidence that maybe my Barrel was showing symptoms of pumping out rounds at weird phases of its whip. I know that that is why hand reloaders have to work up their loads to find the velocity and other variables that works best with the barrel and its flexing, but I am not in a position right now to be able to reload at my leisure to find that magic load. So I bought myself a Harrel Brake Tuner. It’s has a Spiral hole pattern. I don’t like the fact that it might kick dust up if shooting prone, but I’m anxious to get it and try to find the sweet spot for the factory ammo that I can buy fairly cheaply. Maybe it’ll work, maybe it won’t. It’s an experiment, a slight bit better I’m sure than the Hose clamp Barrel Tuner I will not be trying to Patent. Anybody use spiral muzzle brakes? Kick up dust bad? Loud/Quiet/ or ineffective at recoil dampening? Anybody ever try the Harrel Tuner or just their plain muzzle Brakes? If it did kick up dust, I wonder if I could plug the bottom holes securely to experiment further. Anyway, I’ve got my handgaurd off, checked my gas block port powder marks, and it was 99% centered over my hole. I plan on shooting the gun with no muzzle device at all in a few days to see how that behaves. Take Care, and good luck Lane with that Star Trek, photon/Aluminum/nuclear reactor gun you are wiring up! That’s way beyond my Finite electrical knowledge.

This is a great idea to try first. In any event, the bolt catch is way more expendable than the bolt, even if you had to dremel the catch out somehow. Ive had my bolt “catch” prematurely on the bolt catch before, getting stopped in that position of your bolt, Racer X. Mine got stopped in that position because it was being lifted up Too High and as the bolt traveled rearward with the charging handle, it hung up. I fixed it by reducing the follower lift, of magazine. I discovered my problem before I ever fired a shot. Possibly a different problem unique to my setup. I have been trying to find a wider bolt catch for use with a different bolt I have which has smaller lugs.. wanting a bit more surface area at the stopping point. Good luck. Maybe you could just take the charging handle and give it a fast forceful snap backward if the other methods fail to get er Unstuck.

I tried ordering myself a 308 specific bolt catch, and when it came it was almost smaller than my original LPK catch. Still haven’t found a good huge beefy one. Maybe to get the thing unstuck you can immobilize the receiver, put some tension on the charge handle, and tap downward at the correct angle upon the bolt catch with your punch there. Then investigate more on a different catch

You meanie drill Sergeant , that’s unfair.

Yeah, I like that story, idiots like me need a pros to point out the glitches. Here are two videos of my self, the first one was an attempt at “rapid” firing, the target was swaying back and forth like I was at sea. The second video is of me trying to be more accurate, but I knelt on brass and rocks and was not comfortable at all. I misstated where the target was, Lower Right. I put it down in that gully so I could video everything. Since then I’ve tried squeezing trigger with finger tip instead, also holding it squeezed for Natural Point of aim. Pizza box was to keep the dust from poofhing at 100 yards. I am a long way from being a good rifleman. F1897129-E4BC-411C-9F0A-BA332486A85B.MOV 26241582-EB3A-43FF-AFB7-E2D88594A12F.MOV

Yes, I did one of myself a while back... I was shooting at 30 yards 🙂 standing... You guys will probably see Horrible mechanics... Haven’t done one of close up of trigger/ejection port. I will try to crop my video down enough for import here, but future videos will have to wait till mid August. I’m heading to AK for halibut Hunting. Never done it, never been there. I was born up there but don’t know what it’s like....moved down to lower 48 when I was 1

Understood. Seldom have I squeezed the trigger so slowly that it’s a suprise when it goes off, timing it for on full exhale, etc. Seldom also have I kept Trigger pulled like a follow through. Many things for me to improve. I have my wonderings on my scope some other aspects of my rifle, and those are in other threads. This thread was initially about whether a longer barrel gun, maybe front heavy, is easier or harder to hold steady on standing shots... I was curious as to what you all thought. I got some replies that answered that question, and some helpful ideas on how to make the gun inherently more steady. The follow through is important, and I think you, @Cliff R, are showing this. That’s a great story. Thank you. As far as my 30 or 100 Yard prone accuracy, (different threads) I still am not convinced yet that it is all my poor skills, I do want to put my better scope on it and see if things change. I’m getting weird inconsistencies like split groups. One group at 100, most recently, had two Nearly touching, and two four and 5 inches to the left. No matter how much I ever jerked my 30-06 trigger, it was never that bad. I’m not that bad of a shooter. Anyway, improving my skills, ammo, equipment, and practice will all be good things.

Keep trying... use your searching skills with the path I spelled out... Also, create a thread in the introduction section.. you might want to get feedback from the other fellows here

Yes. Maybe you are 100% right. I need training, cause I’m a shitty azs shot with the gun as it is. I have not noticed any other gun so hard to shoot accurately, even when pretty solid on the bench. The thing is a different animal for sure than my 22” 30-06. I am glad this thread spun off into Black Powder guns, however. Like Magwa said, the Art of shooting traditional weapons and making them go.... ssssss whooof...... crack, is like these Lr-308s. Some people are jack of all trades, master of none. So far I am that with Rifles, Bows, Pistols, fishing poles, computers, radios, and the sex swing! Never have shot from one of those. I’d have to use Lanes computations of gravitational counter measures and dynamics to even be able to shoot from then correct direction off that table. Maybe the way to cheat on that would be to put a bowling ball in ones rigid frame backpack, contained but able to roll. Kind of like the Masses they put inside some skyscrapers to dampen the building harmonics. I do need to be able to shoot good with my LR, I will try my best to train instead of asking any more questions searching for an equipment answer that isn’t there. I’m impressed with that accurized shoot thread, you guys are pros and an apple seed shoot for me would be my first step in a long climb to your caliber. Thanks seriously. I’ve looked it up and the towns that they are in would be good to travel to.

Ok, it’s not jp that has the trigger info, it’s hiperfire dot com.... triggers... troubleshoot link... might be worth measuring your jig holes to make sure they jive

I finally had confidence in the ssi one because it checked exactly with a pin layout give by a Trigger company.. maybe it was jp Trigger of some sort, if you do some research you might find that like I did. The trigger and hammer pins need to be nuts on. Safety needs to be drill in the center of the safety detent hole that comes up from the grip area. Glad you are trying to make sure things are precise.

Mine measures .69 roughly. The plan I went off of was .68, but I had to enlarge a wee wee bit. I looked at many different plans and didn’t like that one much. It’s not drawn to scale. Look for one with a SSI on it. I guess it depends on your brand of lower though.

Mineralman55 shared a spreadsheet in 2018, with various calibers and manufacture load data, don’t know if he put much custom experimenting into it. Don’t know if it was for AR-10(Ts) click on his name to look at his posts if you desire or actually search for Excell Reloading Database

Ha ha ha. Let me tell you, if for some corny reason you want a basement practice range, Black Powder will require you to evacuate after every shot! Maybe wait about a half hour unless you use a gas mask! Even the “Fake Crap” is a little foul to the fresh air! I’m in the middle of that issue, but I see how it could ruin the seasons the more the MuzzelLoader becomes like a regular rifle

The only time I used BP for my pistol I used the 2F kind, I believe. Never have tried the 3F. About 10 years ago I think I ordered some powder online and paid the fee, but for sure I remember getting about 3 more of those red and silver containers at a gun show. I don’t have any priming powder from my flintlock days. I use #11 magnum caps on the pistol. Finding 209 primers for the LongGuns might have been as hard as finding regular primers. My little stockpile hasn’t been touched in over 3 years. Magwa or BeltFed would burn through my stash in about a month. I had a House I was renting and the old basement made a great place to testfire my pistol. When I moved I swept up about 7 lbs of squished lead balls. Neighbors about 50 ft away never did hear me I believe. Those were the good ol days. I don’t even remember how much 2F I put in my cylinders... Chuck Hawks has some info on it I think I followed. I left room enough for a wafer wad, then seated the ball. Then to prevent chain fire I put some bore butter wax flushing out the cyclinder. Pressure was obviously low enough, kind of like TrailBoss in a brass case. Fill er up as much as you want. If I did that with 3F or 4F maybe I’d regret it. Good luck with the powder run and the Traditions mod, Lane, I have not even noticed how the supply is for that kind

My standard bolt carrier only wiggles in the back when lugs are engaged about 1/16” side to side 1/8” total movement. Seems like a tighter fit than yours

Blue109, Roger on the more weight harder to keep steady and my 30yd test with bipod probably not steadier at all than without at 100. BeltFed, that is cool that you and Magwa are BP shooters, having both learned how to master your LongGuns and find the right charge that is best... I never did know to experiment with that..I just filled the measuring cup to near suggested safe max every time. BeltFed you get the Quiz award for 4F priming powder. Magwa, if I can ever shoot my scoped guns like you can shoot your BP weapons, I will be a happy camper. A+ I salute you. I like that practice method you suggested. CliffR, as a competitive shooter like many possibly here, I am impressed with your wisdom and maybe a little trick like having controlled movement(like a figure8) is what I could learn more about if I ever go to one of the Trainings 98 suggested. There is one about 3 hours away from me that sometime next Spring I’d be smart to sign up for. JTallon83, aka QuickShot, I’ve thought before, about what you said, you like a balanced rifle. Mine is a little front heavy now, especially with the bipod. I might experiment by packing some weight of some usefulness into my magpul stock compartments. Sort of opposite to a bow stabilizer. Lots of great responses, thank you Gentlemen. Ohh, yeah, the fake black powder I have experiment with, not with my cheap ol flintlock that I got rid of, but with my Ruger Old Arm .45 Long Colt. Man that thing is fun. I’ve shot smoky BP, Pyrodex, tried Pyrodex pellets, but 777 seems to be my favorite. It shoots hot similar to the smokeless loads my Pops made up for me with my conversion cylinder. Some day I may try BP hunting and buy another rifle. Even an in-line, but it won’t ever be quite as an achievement as taking an animal ol school flintlock or even hawkin cap n ball. i have killed three deer with a compound bow, but recurve an Long Bow not yet, maybe someday. The day I possibly get an animal with my LR-308, accurately, I will think back to you guys and thank you for your help

I should attend. I think the different balance and weight of this Lr-308 will require proper technique and fundementals where another gun type might be more forgiving. My first muley buck shot through the heart at 100 yards open sights Winchester, The same cannot be done so easily with this type of gun for me. I am no where near feeling good about a suprise standing shot. It’s like trying to shoot a single pellet shotgun at a 50 mph little teal flying left to right. Thanks for Info 98z5v

BackGround: In 1990 or so, I bought myself a swell 50 caliber FlintLock from Gander Mountain. That sucker was Extremely Long barreled and front heavy and I cant quite remember If it was easy to shoot freehand or not. That barrel, no matter what bore butter I used got so fouled that after 2 shots I’d have to do a full cleaning in order to seat the ball and patch. I never hunted with it and was so displeased with its accuracy I was extremely happy I suckered a pawn shop into giving me a hundred dollars for it years later. The Present: My new .308 rifle works like a dream. Gas port correct. Heavy Buffer doing its job. Scope and rings or even the 18” Heavy fluted Barrel may or not be great. I am not a sharp shooter with it. I’d loose my top knot if I was running with Crocket or Boone. I tried shooting before with the Magpul Bipod on the far front end at a 30 Yard Target... did ok. Seemed it was floating around a bit standing while shooting. 5” group maybe at that distance. Today, at 100 yards, I took the bipod off and tried the same at 100 yards. 6 out of 10 shots hit the 18” square target, no sling to help me steady. Question: Does anybody shoot more accurately standing with a Longer heavier barrel like a 20” or 22” vs a shorter barrel like my 18” or less? Better with more weight out front or less? I almost think I was more steady with the bipod weight out front, but I’m not certain. On my next gun it’s more likely to be a longer barrel. Maybe a Rifle Length extension/stock would help me shoot from the standing position better, I just don’t know. Feel free to answer this topic only if you know what FFFF is.

Speaking of short barrels... Today I took my bipod off of my 18” fluted barreled gun, to see how I would do shooting at 100 yards standing with no rest. Pretty darn hard to hold steady. I didn’t have a sling with me. I hit a 14” square target 6 out of 10 times. I think the extra weight of the bipod would have helped more than hurt. Does anybody here shoot better with a heavier or longer front end? Barely related to pistols, but reading this thread jogged this thought in my Short term memory

After cleaning my barrel well with some Hoppes #9 bench rest copper remover, I shot today about 40 rounds. I will use the good ol depstech to see if I see a bunch of new copper buildup. I never broke in this barrel very good, and maybe the copper keeps clogging up the unsmoothed imperfections. I seem to remember seeing the copper upon first use of the bore scope, being more near the gas port area than anywhere else. I think I will check now, what the heck. I’ll post a small movie of what I see.

@Lane @sketch will turn that comment around on you, Lane, be very careful! I’m not a sucker or a blower, but I think I catch that drift. Yep. When I first installed my barrel, I went the safe route and rented the headspace gauges, for the bolt I currently use. The go went and the no-go didn’t. I felt very satisfied. For the heck of it I took some calipers and measured the overall length difference of the two gauges, even though the tips are not the datum points. The difference was .003”. Headspace was good. The new bolt may be tighter, and I might try to use a ramrod with a brush and run it into the brass to simulate “blowing” I have no problem with running my stick into the proper openings! Anyway, before I use this new Sharps BCG with a new barrel I will be for sure getting some more gauges for headspace. Either 6.5 creed or 7mm-08. If I can get my ramrod temp check to tell me that the brass can move exactly .003”, I might be tempted to try this new bolt out with my confirmed good Barrel extension without re-renting .308 gauges. After two rentals I would have been better off just buying them. Anyway, I understand what you were saying...thanks Lane.