DustBuster

Good Job Tack14, glad you got past the tight fitting pins of the jig. I take it you finished the hogging and drilling. What is your next step gonna be, assemble some parts and maybe test your trigger out? I looked back and scanned your parts list, but didn’t see a trigger. What kind of trigger are you putting in there, hypothetically, 🙂 ? I miss the weeks and months leading up to my Hog it Out job. I can’t believe I pulled it off successfully. Did your shop vaac suck up the majority of the mess, connected to the jig? Anyway, it will be exciting to try er out for the first time.

Yes you are probably right Lane. The flaw in my strategy of possibly seeing a difference between a properly headspaced brass and a Tight Brass is the fact that Ejectors will push the loose one tight and the tight one is already tight. I’d have to take the ejectors out and somehow make sure the brass stayed tight to bolt face. Not worth the trouble.I might have to just rent the gauges again. Borescope can be used to keep an eye on copper build up and other miscellaneous.

Ok Lane here are two pictures of my comparisons between a good headspaced bolt closed on a case and my Sharps bolt closed on the same case. I took movies and tried to snapshot at the same spot on the rim... couple little nicks on case neck... I’m a little off on rotation but close. If one picture measured ..003 “ closer, I’d be in trouble. For Reference this brass is 2.004”

That is a cool experiment there Lane. Somehow your idea entails holding some kind of printed scale out at the focal distance... First Focal plane BoreScope. I might try a second focal plane transparency that sticks to the mirror. The transparency thickness could screw up clarity. Otherwise, I guess you’d have to share the object zone with the measuring scale, held out by a wire? That is a simple idea though to spin off of, I have some cap/resistor or diode leads that I could measure. Maybe there in the ball park of head space thickness .003 I think. Bet the smallest wire is actually more than that. Could suspend a strand of course Golden Retriever or Gopher hair across the focal plane. Either way, cool idea, getting your printer to print so small to investigate is good practice. After you get paid huge dollars by the Med industry, make sure you deposit .003% into BeltFeds and my account.

Update: Sharps 308 XPB Bolt carrier Group Issues: 1) firing pin retainer pin can protrude enough to lightly touch sidewalk. 2) Hard to eject live round. Conclusion: 1) fixed easily by adding tiny washer behind Flat Head of Sharps retaining pin design 2) fire round then eject! After going in with bore scope and looking at case neck clearance using a Known Bolt of exact proper headspacing, and comparing that gap with what I saw with the Sharps, I detected no difference. Brass case is not pushed in tighter causing hard live round ejection. The reason for hard live round ejection, I believe, is extra friction caused by Strong Double ejectors on the projectile side surface, as the live round is removed. My situation does not require “mortaring” to remove, but a firm and stiff pull back is required to eject live round. Head spacing on Barrel has been previously checked with old bolt and the Sharps bolt dimensions were compared to these and were within spec. Both bolts were measured with calipers and checked out with the Faxon bolt dimensions for proper headspace. I feel safe enough to Test Fire using Sharps XPB bcg and continue the review of my new backup/soon to be primary BCG. I will be buying/renting headspace gauges in the future to test either a 6.5 Creedmore Barrel or a 7mm-08. This is why I don’t want to get the 308 gauge again for Bolt Checking. I already checked my 308 barrel with one.

I plan on seeing what kind of difference one bolt makes with another as far as case neck clearance (empty of course), looking with the borescope. Too bad there isn’t a calibrated reticle for measurements on the bore scope lense. Betcha the surgeons have that on theirs. I’ll have to eyeball my gaps. Lonewolf McQuade, your borescope use caused this wildfire, it will never stop

Ha ha ha, that is horrible, not expected. Ok change subjects, Wish those barrel makers would use a little finesse and drill the gas port inbetween the lands. My gas port is clipped halfway on a land, Now I know thanks to Destech. Gonna flood my barrel with copper solvent this weekend. I know the answer to the gasport placement, nothing to do with rifling “phase”, maybe the Best in the world barrels do take that into account, I don’t know.

I got the extra nonsense today in my destech box. So many of these dang things require logins, passwords, alternate emails, security codes, enough to drive ya bonkers. I spent an hour trying to login into my long ago used hotmail account for the Microsoft Windows 7 file from Destech. Finally after checking the alternate email for the security code, Microsoft let me log in and then the damn thing tells me Windows 7 is not supported or that I have to register my device. Screw that. I googled and found out that Windows Movie maker works with these cameras. Maybe BeltFed, you would go that route. I just put the scope down my barrel and she works good. I see some bad copper spots. Later in a controlled manner I will chart were the spots are. I kind of want to see what the backside of my extension lugs look like and that will require some weird twisting actions. It would be really interesting to see what my stomach looks like. How can you stop gag reflex? Medical answers only are allowed, I know how you guys might respond.

Copper smear: Usually I’ve been cleaning this gun after each use, but it is kind of dirty now with oil and powder residue in the action. Standard muck after 25 rounds. So when I had it open looking inside, I noticed brass streaks and spots. Hopefully they weren’t hard and are close to causing stuck cases like maybe Lonewolf Mcquades were doing. After I reassembles my gun with original bolt, the copper seemed to move, so maybe it was oily copper and not hardened, inside the chamber, don’t know for sure yet

The Dummy rounds I had made for me a while back. SAAMII spec resized, and brass with removed primer, with my own little patented hard rubber primers glued in place. That was for when I thought dryfiring would be like a Terrible Blow from Thor the Hammer, but I’ve since learned it’s a tiny little tick sound, primer or no primer. I mainly made those dummies for just seeing if bolt/magazine/barrelextension all worked as I was assembling over time. The dummies have always loaded exactly like live rounds, maybe the bolt slamming home a wee bit faster with no powder weight in them. As far as the gas rings, I would say that at least the bolt movement inside the carrier is 25-30% more resistive than my regular bolt I’ve use used and fired about 150 times. 1 jam in 150, not bad statistics for the old bcg, nothing wrong with it, I’m was just scoping out the alternative one. I’ve seen one U Tuber do a gas ring test with his bolt by putting it on a table and seeing if the bolt would collapse together under its own weight. Neither of mine will do that, specially the Sharps

The Sharps gas rings also seem to create more vacuum force, such a tight seal with the Sharps, it might be several factors including better lug fit. I’m sure you are right 98, put it in and give it a whirl, it’ll break in like everything else just fine.

Yeah, I actually bought this one for a backup...I’m sure it’ll work good. I was so impressed with the overall quality that I had to share about it. Then I popped it in gun to test the fit and ran into the hard to unlock the dummy round situation and the firing pin retaining pin problem. Two different problems and I’ve cured the firing pin retainer pin just now. I had to follow up in good faith yesterday to possible buyers with details. I just retested the unlocking of it today after the retainer pin fix. Using my charging handle, I basically have to put the stock onto the desk and use both hands to pull the charging handle downward to get it open. Without a round in it the bolt unlocks easily. I’m thinking it could be extra side pressure that I’m not used to with the double ejectors, or it may not be headspaced right for this barrel. Funny thing, tonight, for the first time looking into the chamber, I saw Lots of copper smear on the sidewall. So I fixed the very minor situation of the retaining pin easily( a tiny washer made from a wire terminal). Yesterday I had heard it making contact and it did leave a small scratch in the receiver. The main unlocking problem might have to wait till I go about a headspacing check. Maybe I’ll have to clip a coil off the ejector springs. I can deal with that later. I tried an impromptu headspace comparison by standing my old bolt on the table, putting in a round and bending it straight till it hit the bolt face compressing the ejector, and measuring with my calipers from the rear of a lug to the neck of the brass. Then I tried the same with the Sharps bolt and at first it measured more, but another time it might have been the same. Very innacurate way. Might be a while till I can fully recommend this beauty of a bolt, that is all.

Nice review, thanks Lane and BeltFed, I copy cat ordered the 20 dollar special. I will be looking for anomolies in my Faxon Barrel. Either I have a bad scope, bad ring torque, bad ammo, or just a plain bad Barrel. I’m going to take a peek at my gas port, like looking up in then belly of a whale! I bought some Hoppes Copper remover, maybe there is copper stuck in the barrel. Pretty cheap way to find out.

Agreed, one of those at a time

I put this new one in my gun to see how it behaved on a dummy round dryfire and manual ejection. I still will be comparing it and reviewing it as the days progress. It definitely feels like a more snug fit in the buffer tube, and the lugs might have to wear more easier opening from barrel extension. I might want to try and keep the firing pin retaining pin from being able to extend past flush on the ejection port side, I think it may have been able to make contact with my receiver adding to opening difficulty. A little gasket washer under the “head” of that firing pin retaining pin would solve this issue. My old sloppy Bolt Carrier works fine, this new design may just need a few gunsmithing TLC touches. I’ve read where people with sloppy receiver meshing between upper and lower have a problem with the larger rear of this Sharps entering into the buffer tube. My receivers are not too loose, but are not perfect. I’m not against myself adding some epoxy to the lower part of my upper receivers takedown pins opening, to tighten it up a whisker more. Right now, I think, after ruling out firing pin retainer pin looseness I will see if I need to tighten my receivers. Don’t know yet. I still like this thing but the real test will be upon shooting with it.

Yep, I will. It showed they were in stock when I ordered it, but when I called she said they weren’t supposed to be because of some sort of coating error on the gas key screw... but I don’t see Any prob. I said send it anyway. She did. Waiting for them to be back in stock or emailing asking about em could be good. I’m not looking forward to pulling out Two ejectors to headspace it so I can test it, but I should, or just maybe buy another of their separate bolts. Can’t gaurentee great function yet, but I’ll post pictures. Looks very very good.

Ok, since nobody replied to my post here, I will reply myself to it: I just got this Bolt Carrier in the mail and it is a Beauty. Work of Fine Art. I have this one now as a backup or for a future Creedmore build, and I will be headspacing it soon so I can test this baby out. I was even given a reduction in price because of some negligible cosmetic flaw, of which I do not even see upon inspection of this item. I was wondering where my order was so I called them. I was greeted upon my phone call kindlywith explanation of delay and it was sent out the same day... I cannot see one minute cosmetic flaw to this baby. I will post more after I test it out. They are still in business and hope they well succeed. I might try a barrel from them. Whiskey 7 out

Actually my barrel guy told me this Thank you for taking the time to contact us! The gas port on our 18" Heavy Fluted .308 barrels are spec'd to be .093" +/- .001". Please let us know if you have any other questions.

I bought a CMMG gas tube for ar-15/“Lr-308” supposedly the same length but sure enough, it was a 1/4” short. Had to look for nearly a 12.5” gas Tube for sale, which is probably the length in the Armalites Kit these guys are recommending. I learned it here that the tube should reach the halfway point of the cam pin cutout. My Daytona Tactical runs like a dream from the first shot to the 100th. I have had only one failure to feed... the bolt jammed the side of the brass for some reason, and she didn’t go in. I have rifle length gas with a carbine length recoil system, 5.3oz buffer. My barrel gas port is .092” per barrel manufacture statement and my drill bit checks, welcome from your northern neighbor

For me, getting the pin out for the extractor was easy, it’s the ejector that I spent an hour or two with. Had to make a jig to hold a case in line with the bolt to get that spring under pressure for proper pin slippage, driving that pin out with a tiny 1/16” punch. I even ground that punch skinner for that ejector pin. Extractor is a breeze, however. i see now shooterrex es 45acp comment. That sounds better than how I did it with one 308case.

Hello Guys.... I saw a post before of this Bolt when it was in stock, back in May or something. I bookmarked the page back then. Last week, I randomly brought that page up and it was in stock. That began a three day long mental back and forth of whether I wanted another bcg as a back up or for a future build down the road. After doing some more rapid research on it, I ordered it. Whether or not it will actually ever get to me is a different story. It is now out of stock again, so at least the web page is “alive”. The company sounds like it is nearly dead, however. One employee, in WY, which may or may not be true. Coming back from the ashes of Bankruptcy, I wish them or “him” luck! The Sharps rifle is certainly legacy of this nation, I am proud to have a tiny recreated piece of that legacy on order. Some of the reviews were great, and others not so great. The ejector or extractor could be ill supplied with parts and there was one period that they had improper tempering and it caused a total recall unfortunately because lot numbers were not on the bolts. Also the gas key may be measly staked. The firing pin is the high pressure size, which could be good for my next build which would be a creedmore. Anyone else buy one of these bolts recently and do you have poor ejection and need to add a spring or some extractor part? I’m hoping my current bolt catch would engage fine with the different than milspec lugs on the src Bolt. My current bolt makes enough, but little contact with bolt catch. These two issues I will hopefully see for myself when I get the part in my mail box, but it doesn’t hurt to see what you all know about it.

Maybe it is mostly the ball bearing making it super snug. Maybe grease and Albroswifts mallet is the solution. Could freeze the pins but removal will not be helped

Hi again Tack...Looks like Lonewolf has a good foam Lower to practice with, haha. Spinning those pins in a drill isn’t a bad idea, sanding or using a polishing compound like they use for scope rings. The ball and detent could be removed if possible and then a cotter pin used instead if they wouldn’t go back in. Either solution will result in a tiny bit of slop in the bigger holes of the jig, but maybe not enough to matter. Good Luck.

What a pain in the butt dealing with that company and their ripoff product. Assuming your lower holes are proper spec size and that you ordered the correct kit, this company sounds irresponsible. A simple solution could be to get ( this is from memory of when I made my laser bore sight jig) is use a 1/4 bolt and wrap a few nicely spirally wrapped layers of electrical tape until the fit is proper. Slap a couple of washers and some nuts on it and tighten to exactly 232.34 in-lbs of torque. ( just kidding on the torque). Then send a scathing review to all of the websites you can think of... hypothetically 🙂 You’ll get er done... I made a wooden jig with a 13 dollar top shape plate and hogged mine out with a painfully loud carbide with a missing tooth after the first plunge. Im dealing now with a scope that doesn’t like 30 yards because of bad parellax. Good luck Tack Driver

I just looked at the Olight Mini 1000 lumen, I would advise to not let that beam hit ones eyeball, it will burn through the retina and sizzle the brain I’d imagine. My stream light practically hurts if looked straight on