Tack14

Have to admire the simplicity of that. maybe it won't. WIll try Thanks jtallen. heck i don't see harm in mentioning brand. I am not complaining about the brand here. LANTAC E-BCG. If it hangs up and replacing it makes sense does anyone think it would be risky to put a JP Enterprise Titanium pin in? Not that I have a thing for those but I am sure the quality is there.

Being new to 308 AR's I am not sure how universal firing pins are. For example I have seen mention of some having smaller diameters etc. So I am not sure how safe it is to grab, for example, a JP Enterprises titanium pin and try to use it in this other brand bolt, this BCG is a bit specialized also. (an e-BCG full mass )

sorry those 2 were just about same spot from 2 angles. here is other side

OK here are pics

See, I have this little black cloud that follows me around.... And as my luck also tends to go, the vendor I bought THIS BCG from is now out of stock. I opened the package on and starting disassembling my brand new (brand) BCG this evening so I could do some headspace checks with the barrel for the upper I'm building - ie, by removing bolt from BCG, then disassembling bolt to get extractor and ejector out, and using a go and non-go gauge. When I got the firing pin out of the BCG, to my horror, there are at least 4 significant "digs" into the shaft around the final taper area, leading up to the final diameter that protrudes through to the bolt face. One that goes almost the whole way around where the taper starts. All of these digs catch my thumbnail and make a significant scratching type sound as my nail runs over them or catches on them. So I see the description of this forum area mentions non-brand-specific so perhaps not kosher to mention the brand names. I don't really fault the manufacturer for this, it was poorly packed in a much bigger box by where I bought it from, with a bunch of air pillows, which of course will do nothing to stop a heavy metal object like a BCG from flying around in the box.... Seems to be a lot of this going around lately, or, maybe it's just to me. I can't imagine what kind of hell this box must have went through on the way here, but I'm assuming this happened in transit, ie didn't leave manufacturer this way. In any case, I can't imagine these kinds of digs being healthy for proper function of the rifle. I am not an AR expert but it does seem to me that it is not good for a firing pin to have gouges in it that could impede free travel of the pin inside the bolt. I know that is true for M1/M14 bolts and can't imagine why it would be any different here. Would these do digs/gouges do that? I am not 100% sure. But it looks like hell. So aside from the obvious "try getting in touch with the mfgr and see if they would be willing to replace it for me" (they seem to be based out of the Fort Worth area), or buy another firing pin (it would probably have to be another brand and given the enhanced nature of this BCG I am not sure how much mixing and matching I should be doing), are there other viable options? Is there even a chance I could maybe polish this pin up with a dremel and buffing wheel or something? I have never tried doing that before. I am not opposed to replacing it I just don't know where I would get an exact replacement other than the mfgr, since the vendor is out of stock. So disappointing... why do vendors that are allowed to sell higher end parts do such a bad job packing them sometimes? I did take a couple pictures...

Congratulations Black_Sheep I am glad you got it cycling properly! That is a nice looking rifle there.

Thanks Armed Eye Doc. For 1200 yards it could be worth driving a little while. I'll investigate membership fees etc. Looks like a couple hours from here. Not sure it would be a good thing for me as I would probably not be able to make a day of it often but I guess that depends on the membership fees. 🙂 Thought I had replied to this already but I must not have sent.

Whoops, sorry bout that. The editor is a little wonky for me when using the "at" callouts. (prolly javascript blocker thing) re-post: Hi 98Z5V, jtallen83 and Rsquared -- Thank you for the replies. I will check those out. I can definitely see the reaction rod being more useful especially when I torque the barrel down and not have to worry about flexing the receiver or the vise being able to hold it well. I fully plan to use the reaction rod when I put the barrel on and torque/unscrew/re-torque 3X the barrel nut on, mount the rail, etc. I saw one video a day or so ago of someone using what was called a super reaction rod, it had screw and/or lugs to lock it in place so the receiver wouldn't slide on the rod once those locks were engaged. But the MW one I picked up doesn't have that. One example of an operation I can see an upper vise block maybe being a better fit for is this little "tit" of a ding I found on the front face (top/front corner) of the last pic on the front of my upper receiver. It evidently was already there when it went into the anodizing tank because the finish is not disrupted at all. But I will need to "kiss" that face just a bit with an appropriate file to take that down to match the rest of the surface and touch up with some aluminum black. It is standing the handguard off just the tiniest bit from a perfect/flat/straight fit, like a little miniature fulcrum. Slowly experience is shaping my long term opinions..... 🙂 Thanks everyone! Tack14

Hi @98Z5V @jt

Being a noob it is entirely possible I am overthinking all of this and don't need an upper vise block AND a reaction rod. Watching some vids of people using the reaction rods I saw there could be a risk of the upper sliding and thought there might be some times having the pins through something to hold the upper steady might be better. But I'm a noob. 🙂 All advice welcome!

i posted over in the tools area, thanks!

Thanks @jtallen83 did get a Midwest Industries reaction rod, just wanted to get a vise block too for things that sliding off the rod might be a risk

Hi everyone, I spent a little more time searching for posts about this and also where the best place to post it would be, hope I did OK. Noob seeking experienced ad-vise... (deliberate misspelling...) I am getting ready to do a 308 upper build and although I did pick up a Midwest Industries 308 reaction rod, I also wanted to get an upper receiver vise block. By upper vise block I mean the kind you can put in a bench vise, set an upper down into, put some pins through the takedown/pivot pin holes to hold it steady and then do whatever work you were going to do. The question is, Who makes a GOOD AR10/308 upper receiver vise block that actually FITS a DPMS-pattern upper with a solid hold on takedown and pivot pins (pins that are the right diameter would be a nice start...), and the upper doesn't doesn't wobble around inside the vise block? And doesn't require you to squeeze the upper vise block in your bench vise to tighten the poor hold the upper vise block has on the upper? Anyone? After striking out twice in a row dealing with an in-state vendor trying to get an Odin Works AR10/AR15 upper vise block here undamaged (a 3lb aluminum block needs more than just getting tossed into a much larger box with a pillow or two, or a crumple or two of paper...), I gave up trying with them ("Houston, we have a problem...") and ordered a Wheeler one from Midway with my last order. It had good reviews there... But my KAK 308 upper is an awfully loose fit in that vise block - pins are loose and it also wobbles in the vise block. The Wheeler instructions seem to be saying this vise block relies on clamping force from my bench vise to "squeeze' their vise block to provide lateral tension on my 308 upper. I am just not sure I like that idea, but maybe this design is "normal"...? o_O I saw an XS sights one at DSG Arms that looks like it might actually use separate pin holes and separate sides of the block for AR10 vs. AR15. I realize that doesn't necessarily equal better fit though. Just not sure. The Odin Works one seemed like probably a nice design but since theirs ship with the pins inserted, I have to depend on the vendor to ship it packed well to not get it here damaged. Thanks! Tack14

Thanks for the replies everyone. I need a recommendation for a GOOD AR upper vise block but will post that in a separate thread.

Ah wow interesting. I had heard about Remington and some other b rands being bought by some big conglomerate but that was several years ago. PSA as in Palmetto State Armory? Have been browsing over there lately. Have this itch for a carry handle compact lately...

Pretty darn good selection of stuff even for 308 (as I am now "interested in" and finding out) and now they are local-ish to me, not too far away at all.

Hey there. I am very new to this forum but was excited to see a Texas Shooters topic. Then I saw how old the topic was, and figured nobody was still typing here. Glad to see I was wrong! I am around north side of DFW around Richardson/Plano. Looking for an outdoor range, especially one that allows AR variants. Thought I'd found one not too far away but then heard they don't allow AR's. (that's kinda like saying, we have a public drag strip open to public, but don't allow Good Year, Firestone, or Michelin tires on our asphalt) Abilene might be a bit far away for me but 400 yards might be worth the drive.

dang. Amazing info. Thank you again 98Z5V. I just bought a bottle of Rocksett after reading somewhere about what to use on your screws for set screw gas blocks (what threadlocker can handle the temp?). It was a bit of a debate between Loctite blue and Loctite red but then someone came on and mentioned Rocksett can definitely handle the heat it is what (some major mfgr) uses on muzzle devices and cans, and heat won't really bother it once it sets up. I have some Loctite blue also but with lighter stuff in mind. Pretty much all the parts in now, getting excited. 🙂

Hi @98Z5V - thanks for the reply. It is DSG. They've always been good to work with, just wasn't sure about the washers. Thanks! Tack14

Sorry if I posted this in the wrong place.

@Matt.Cross Thanks, that makes sense. I'll have to read up. I had seen some mention of some people having undersized gas ports on their 308's but figured it was more of a corner case situation. Maybe not... It would suck if they need to be enlarged since the barrels I'll be working with are nitrided. I am not set up to do nitriding hehe.

@98Z5V Thank you again for your replies - I just saw your post referencing the topic you created a while back about 308 gas system etc. in the topic from the gentleman about having cycling issues on his build. I am so glad to be here. I have tried to be very very careful researching and picking parts but I know at some point I will inevitably have made a mistake and there is so much good info here. I will look forward to reading your topic about gas systems in detail after work this evening. I am hoping the Ballistic Advantage barrels I've bought will have good size gas ports on them but we shall see. 🙂 Thanks again for sharing the information you have! Tack14

Yeah I really wish I had bought more of the Duramag stainless mags when I saw them out there a little while back. I got a few but not as many as I'd like to have. It is crazy whats going on out there. I remember what it was like after Sandy Hoax but this seems to be worse. Wish I could find some small pistol and small pistol mag primers but haven't been having much luck. Know what you guys mean about mil 7.62 brass not always being good for reloading. Back in 90's I guess I got sorta lucky stumbling across some GI lake city 7.62 once-fired brass from a metals company, they were one of the buyers in the rotation of who had a contract with the military bases around the area to buy their range brass, I think they were melting it back down for brass recycling. Anyway I was in there for something and they had a 55gal drum open just full of it. I had JUST started getting into 308 reloading for y M14 (Springfield M1-A) at the time. I think they ended up selling it to me for $3.50/pound which worked out pretty good for how many pieces of brass per pound. Some of it had been fired in M60's but the headspace etc on them was not as bad as some I have seen since. Some had definitely been fired in M14's, there is a certain ding pattern you'll usually see just below the shoulder on those. 🙂 I ended up having some very very accurate handloads with that USGI brass, shot up the last of it I had a few years back. That was memorable for me because for rapid fire strings of 5 at 50 yards with the old NM/2A sights most of the hits were touching each other. This was ammo I had stored in ammo can's since the 90's, and I was impressed how well it had kept over ~20 years. I had starting working on "modernizing" that M14 (M1-A, really) with a Troy MCS stock a little later on but have since realized, if you want a 308 AR then build a 308 AR and let your M14's be M14's. That rifle is going back to the way it was in the good old days. FWIW I had the sizing die set to where it was sizing the Lake City brass down to where it read +7 on my RCBS 308 chamber/headspace gauge set. This was a 1961 USGI M14 battle rifle barrel so they were a little long/bigger chambers, so at +7 the rounds fit "just right" and cycled perfectly. (like you would expect rounds reading +0 on the gauge to fit in a match barrel's chamber). 40.5 grains of Accurate 2460 with 168gr Sierra matchking, right around 2600fps MV and offhand I don't remember where I was seating to on the gauge, but it was typical seating depth.. But that was one accurate load. I had been working on IMR4895 loads too at the time but was so impressed with the grouping with the 2460 when I started "getting close" I just ordered a bunch of 2460 and never looked back Later on I bought some more mil 7.62 brass, it had IVI headstamps (apparently came from Canadian mil) and there was also some of soemthing else I can't remember -- but that brass needed a LOT more love. And the case heads had these "bolt imprints" on them I didn't like too. I actually sort of moved on and figured I would save working on that lot of brass for a much rainier day, and probably for blasting ammo (147 FMJBT) load work. Never bought from that guy again, it was supposed to be USGI brass and all cleaned up, decapped, and decrimped. It wasn't. Paid a lot of $ for shipping on that. I do still have some of that old Lake City brass around somehwere. Should find it here soon. 🙂

Hi everyone, this is my first post outside of the introductions forum. I'm pretty new to the world of 308 AR's but about to embark on my first build. I ordered some 5.56 and some 7.62 crush washers, seemed like a good thing to have some of both on hand. But when the ones I ordered came in I was struck by the significant difference in thickness. The 5.56 crush washers are significantly thicker/heavier gauge than the 7.62 ones I got from same place. I tried to get a picture from an angle that shows this well but I am not sure if I succeeded or not. Basically the 7.62 crush washer is just a little over half the thickness of the 5.56 one and feels lighter too. Is this normal or do I need to be buying my 7.62 crush washers somewhere else? 🙂 Thanks! Tack14

I am hoping so! Barrel should be here soon, went with 18" heavy BA modern series (nitrided Chrome Moly) on this one. Will have to think a bit about muzzle device yet. I have one 30 cal first generation PWS FSC30 I never installed for an old project, may use that.