Rick O'Shea Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 OK, I started with some basic ideas and preferences for a handguard: round (no quad rails or full length rails), slotted for ventilation, and long enough not to look out of proportion with my 24" bull barrel. Alas, many options for AR-15's, but damn few for .308, with the usual compatibility issues. The one that seemed to meet all my needs was the JP Enterprises Mk III Signature. JP seems like a quality outfit, and they're certainly proud of their products: $200+ for a handguard is getting a bit special. Still, if it's worth it as a matter of quality, maybe I can choke down the price. I've looked high and low for alternatives, and have come up short. Also, their 17.25" length is the longest I've found, and looks the best with my barrel (tested by cutting pool noodles to 15.5" and 17.25" lengths; perfect fit over the bull barrel). I looked around here some, and have found a few references to some of their other products, but nothing about the handguards. I'd welcome any input the community can give me on this product. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 JP's are top notch , I have one on a 18" 308AR & one on a 16" AR 15 Carbine , both are the Modular type . , I have installed the full length top rail on both & both are 12" or 12.5' don't remember the exact size . I like them . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick O'Shea Posted July 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Thanks for the input. The only rails I want are a front sight rail, and maybe a short rail at 6:00 for a bipod. Otherwise I want to be able to get a full wrap-around hand grip on the guard. Glad to hear they're good stuff, 'cause they're all I've found that fits the bill. Guess I'll pay the price. I guess Karma's a bitch; I got such a good deal on the basic rifle, that now everything I want to add to it is another $200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Just follow the instructions when installing , if you have any issues or questions , just ask up . The 2" add on Rail is around $ 35 , the Full Rail is about $ 90 . I just installed a Universal on the one on my 18" ( for a Bipod ) , but I used JP's Backing Nuts & I custom turned the Screw Heads to fit the reliefs in the Rail for them . Yes , I cheap ,I had that 4" rail laying around & the Screws from my extra Mid West fit the Extra JP Nuts I had for the Sling Swivel attachments . Looks like it was made for it . The only issue I have had with the way they are installed is , the Upper Receiver on the Carbine is a POF NP3 coated & there is no locTite that would stick to it , so I improvised . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick O'Shea Posted July 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Well, I ordered it. Also ordered the rails I need directly from them. Doubt I'm up to turning my own screws, but I like your style - waste not, want not. I looked at the instructions, and I confess, they're a bit intimidating. I fancy myself a fair kitchen-table gunsmith, but almost all of my experience is with Smith & Wesson revolvers and 1911's. This may be a matter of it reading harder than it actually is, or my inexperience with the general AR platform may be a factor. This .308 is my first and one-and-only AR of any type. I appreciate the offer to assist me in the process, and I may take you up on it. Y'all have been a great resource so far. One thing I've developed as an amateur gunsmith/carpenter/handyman, etc... is a keen sense of when I'm about to get in over my head on something. If that happens, I'm fortunate enough to have an excellent (professional) gunsmith just up the road. More on this crisis as it develops.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepp Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 7 hours ago, Rick O'Shea said: Well, I ordered it. Also ordered the rails I need directly from them. Doubt I'm up to turning my own screws, but I like your style - waste not, want not. I looked at the instructions, and I confess, they're a bit intimidating. I fancy myself a fair kitchen-table gunsmith, but almost all of my experience is with Smith & Wesson revolvers and 1911's. This may be a matter of it reading harder than it actually is, or my inexperience with the general AR platform may be a factor. This .308 is my first and one-and-only AR of any type. I appreciate the offer to assist me in the process, and I may take you up on it. Y'all have been a great resource so far. One thing I've developed as an amateur gunsmith/carpenter/handyman, etc... is a keen sense of when I'm about to get in over my head on something. If that happens, I'm fortunate enough to have an excellent (professional) gunsmith just up the road. More on this crisis as it develops.... Try searching it in you tube it might be a lot easier than you think. I've thought the same but honestly it's pretty easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick O'Shea Posted July 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 OK, did some you-tubing and general poking around, and then re-read the directions. It looks like if I go one step at a time, it should be pretty straightforward. A couple of things, though: I'm concerned about using red (permanent) Loktite on the barrel nut. I gather it's done to keep the nut in alignment while torqueing down the barrel retainer nut, since the odds of it clocking perfectly snug to the receiver are nil. Some people are using a rod or drill bit through the gas hole to accomplish this, though, even foregoing Loktite altogether. My thought, being cautious regarding either extreme, was to use blue Loktite, and use a mechanical alignment while it sets up. Also, the instructions have you putting the barrel in after the barrel nut. Any reason for this? What do you think about the Loktite vs. no Loktite method? And why the back-and-forth tighty-loosey torqueing method? Thanks as always for your assistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepp Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 (edited) ****edit cuz I was completely wrong also you tube is great ain't it, put a clutch kit in my four wheeler all with you tube tutorial, it's amazing what's on there Edited July 9, 2016 by shepp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 (edited) The Red Loctite should be used & if need to be removed , light heating with a torch will loosen it quite easily ( after removing the Barrel Nut & Barrel ) . I had to use a rod to tighten the one I used on the NP 3 coated POF Upper , like I said , nothing would adhere to it , the nut you are referring to is the Handguard Adaptor , not the barrel Nut . The Adaptor is set to align the HandGuard to its proper orientation , once its set up , I would still use a Rod ( I used an old Die Stem from an RCBS rifle Sizing Die ) it needs to be strong , none bendable , inserted from the inside of the upper Receiver , to make sure it doesn't move , so as to keep the Gas tube passage in alignment . After the Adaptor is set , the Barrel is inserted into the Adaptor & then the Barrel nut with some mil spec grease on its threads & tighten the same as you would normally , snug three times & torque down on the third to align the Gas Tube passage if need be . They said once on their sight that through their testing with rapid fire situations , that if the Hand Guard Adaptor was seated tight against the Upper Receiver , accuracy suffered . Edited July 8, 2016 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick O'Shea Posted July 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 Thanks, survivalshop The terminology I used was JP's, from their instruction sheet, since at this point I don't know my nuts from a hole in the ground. I'll use the red Loktite, then. I'm not planning on redoing this configuration anyway, and I do have a heat gun if I have to for any reason. And you're saying that aligning this part will automatically index the handguard itself properly? Because I'll be putting a front sight rail and a bipod rail on this, and I need them to be perfectly plumb. Not sure I can eyeball that well enough. Thanks again everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted July 9, 2016 Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 When you install the HG adaptor , slide the HG on /w the Rail mounted on it ( if you are using a top rail ) & see how the two rails line up . The rail screw holes are elongated for forward & backward movement to seat the rails flush with one another . I have a tool for it so when I do mine , I just leave the alignment tool in place till the Loctite sets up . You can use a Scope ring for an alignment tool to bridge the gap between the two rails or do it by eye , your choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick O'Shea Posted July 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Arrived the other day - very nice looking piece of equipment. I am accumulating the necessary tools and equipment, and will start assembly as soon as I can get the barrel Cerakoted. Thanks again to everyone for their support and assistance. I'll ask for help again if I need it during assembly, but honestly, I feel pretty good about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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