speeddreamz Posted July 27, 2011 Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 So I've built many AR15s from stripped lowers, and putting together the MA Ten lower wasn't much harder.I'm not for the first time piecing together the upper components. I need a bit of advice on the install. What sort of things do I need to watch out for? Over torquing ? Stripping threads? Gas block not installed correctly? I don't completely understand head spacing but Rich at fulton armory said he would find a bolt and barrel that matches up. Here are the parts I have which seem to be complete?!?-Ma Ten Upper Rec-Panther Claw 308 upper block-DPMS LR10/AR10 barrel nut tool -Fulton Armory 18.5" lw barrel (Rifle Length Gas sys)-Fulton Armory BCG (supposedly properly head spaced to the barrel?)-Rifle Length Gas tube-DPMS Delta Ring -DPMS 308 barrel nut-PRI Adjustable low prof gas block .750-(plans for a free float but just can't decide at the moment)-----UpdateJust waiting on the barrel nut/delta ring kit/triangle cap.[img width=810 height=604]http://i56.tinypic.com/14wefde.jpg[img width=810 height=604]http://i54.tinypic.com/2i7r5vn.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeddreamz Posted July 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 Oh and as far as the lower goes, I'm throwing a UBR on there, possibly an ACS depending on how heavy things are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted July 27, 2011 Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 If you built AR 15's , some of the parts for a 308 are just bigger .They all go together the same.Or, are you asking how to assemble the upper ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeddreamz Posted July 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 Or, are you asking how to assemble the upper ? Bingo! I want to know torque specs, stuff like "hand tighten by hand and then give it a quarter turn more" kind of advice. "be careful not to overtighten" "test fit first" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgun Posted July 27, 2011 Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 You might want to decide on your FF tube choice now instead of later, since some use a proprietary barrel nut that would require you to remove your gas block to install if you've already assembled the upper with a stock type barrel nut. Most of the time when I order a FF tube the instructions will give you a torque spec, or you will be instructed to hand tighten the barrel nut and then tighten the nut with the wrench until the next hole in the barrel nut lines up with the hole in the upper that the gas tube passes through. Isn't it usually around 60 fp? Now the things that come to mind for me that you would want to have to make assembling the upper easier, are an upper receiver vise block to make it easier to hold while tightening the barrel nut, and if possible some type of soft jaws to hold the barrel near the front end, to allow you to install your muzzle device on the end of the barrel without torquing against the upper/barrel connection. roll pin punches are also good for installing the gas tube pin in the gas block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeddreamz Posted July 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 Got the roll pin punches, 308 panther claw for putting the upper onto then into a vise.Sure you don't want to sell me that sws handguard jgun? Thats the one i'm gunnin for. He won't have any more for a few more months.I'm probably gonna go with a 2piece non floated handguard till I find something better or till ART makes some more of the 14" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgun Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 Speedereamz, It would be more trouble than it would be worth, to go to the trouble of switching the 13.9 SWS rail that's presently on there for one that was only an inch shorter, and have it cost me money besides. If you know where I can get one of the 10" rails he makes for Noveske I'd be interested. Obviously, if your good for the build to begin with, switching your two piece to a different rail later on should be something that you'll certainly be capable of, but, as I mentioned in the last post, it can be a PITA to have to remove the gas block and gas tube in order to switch barrel nuts if the FF rail you happen to decide on uses a different barrel nut than the first one you mount. You might want to give it some thought. As far as I know, SWS and Daniel Defense both use proprietary barrel nuts that don't match anyone else's rails/handguards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeddreamz Posted July 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 Cool, note taken.Yeah I may not install the barrel nut for the 2 piece hand guard.I figure if I put it on I can take it off and put it on again.I'll likely wait till sws puts out another 14, go with the troy mrf 13.8 or go with the rainier arms 13. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 If using a std 308 bbl. nut , or just about any bbl. nut, use grease on the threads as per manual & tighten down & loosen three times before you torque the bbl. nut down to line up the notch for the gas tube.Since you have a headspaced bolt for the bbl. , no need to go there .Make sure there are no burr's on the receiver face & its clean to accept the bbl. extension flange.Just put what ya want on there till the hand guard you want is available & remove what is needed to replace it .Ya get to shoot in the mean time . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeddreamz Posted July 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 What kind of grease, the website here says that he's used Militec-1 and other times moly grease? What do you think?When you're talking about burrs on the receivers face I'm not familiar with where the face is? If using a std 308 bbl. nut , or just about any bbl. nut, use grease on the threads as per manual & tighten down & loosen three times before you torque the bbl. nut down to line up the notch for the gas tube.Since you have a headspaced bolt for the bbl. , no need to go there .Make sure there are no burr's on the receiver face & its clean to accept the bbl. extension flange.Just put what ya want on there till the hand guard you want is available & remove what is needed to replace it .Ya get to shoot in the mean time . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeddreamz Posted July 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 updated the pics... Trying to decide, moly grease or millet 1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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