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About tg4360

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  1. Guys, It doesn't get a whole lot better than this.... (Actually, it does but this is a family friendly forum.) All Images copyright by the Author 2012
  2. Is it possible that the rear face of the bolt catch is rough or has a burr on it? What we need here and across the board is real DATA on buffer spring weights for the various platforms. Knowing what a manufacturer supplies or recommends for their particular rifles and then working from there would go a long way to eliminating the guess work going on. It "feels" like the rifle is doing such and such is not as good as knowing it's right. The original system was to not have an adjustable gas system so they must have figured out buffer weight and spring rates to keep the bolt closed during the time of peak chamber pressure. Knowing this is one thing and I wish I had the time/resources to do the research.
  3. tg4360

    A warm gun...

    Depends on the mission. A police sniper is going to be most times, a long time in position and then with luck only firing a few rounds. A combat sniper may be called upon to engage multiple targets or to a recon by fire so he has to know how his gun responds to a heated barrel much more so than his civilian counterpart but the the police sniper would still know what changes a warm barrel will make in his POI.
  4. My friend, me thinks you need to study up more on your weapon, how it functions and the nomenclature of it's parts and ammunition. It is the cartridge case that is failing to eject. The "bullet" is the projectile and only the projectile. It is fairly well known that DMPS guns do not like steel lacquered cased ammunition. It concerns me that you do not know what or where your extractor spring is. It may seem like I'm nit picking but we are talking about a serious weapons system and using proper names for the parts and processes will avoid confusion. Learning how the weapon functions will go a long way toward understanding what is happening or not happening when there is a stoppage or a malfunction. Please take the forgoing in the spirit of assistance and education as I intend it. TG
  5. These are the guys you should be probably talking to: http://www.fulton-armory.com/ They don't have an action wrench listed in the tools section but I bet they could advise you on where to get one. Brownell's has an action wrench part listed: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=25116/Product/M14-M1A-M1-GARAND-RIFLE-ACTION-WRENCH-HEAD I bet when you tell them that you are down range they will jump to help you out. TG
  6. I haven't knocked on a deer with one yet but I loaded up a bunch of 150gr soft soft point boat tails and the POI out to about 250m was not far enough off the 168gr match I shot at the same time to worry me if I wanted to take a deer with them.
  7. I got some of the greek 30'06 from the CMP and a few rounds were tarnished bad enough that I didn't want to fire them. I'll pull them down and toss the cases in the tumbler but at the very least I'll reload the projectiles. If you get some like that and don't reload, ask your buddy that does, he may want them for components.
  8. It's a pretty slick setup. Once you all agree to a cease fire, you slide the stop sign in front of the firing port and ALL of them are ganged together so there's no way for someone to not know what's going on. Every point was in use that day and everyone was very cooperative so it was a non issue but I can see how smart that is just in case there's someone wool gathering or some such. TG
  9. It's the Amelia Wildlife Management Area. I suspect they have a common design they are using all over the state now. If you look at it in google maps/earth you can see that they used to do the concrete tube thing. TG
  10. One thing the guy doesn't seem to think about is that, perhaps a SEAL team would prefer a piston gun due to the possibility of better functioning after having been submerged. I'm just thinking of the top of my head that a gas block and short piston and op rod would be much easier to clear of water than a gas tube. You might even not have to do anything but let it drain for a moment to get it into action vs. I can see that surface tension and capillary action could keep a slug of water in the gas tube and make it difficult to clear.
  11. Ok, took it to the range today and fired about 40 rounds through it. ZERO problems. The gun did great. I sucked. In mitigation, the firing positions as you can see by the pictures are set up for bipods/rests etc. This is just a sighting in range at one of our wildlife management areas. The firing positions don't lend themselves to no sling, no bipod, no rest shooting. That and I've learned my lesson.... The folding stock that works for a 5.56 does NOT do you any favors when shooting 7.62. Recoil is not objectionable by any means but you don't want to be wearing nothing but a very thin summer shirt unless there's a recoil pad of some sort. So I set up at the 25yd line as I'm only working with the troy backup sights and really I'm just function testing/breaking in. I prepared at the firing point with the weapon, two Pmags and several boxes of Federal gold match. I also had with me some of my hand loads but I wanted to start with the factory stuff. My procedure with any semi auto that I've either worked on or in this case is new to me is to load one round and fire it. The bolt should lock back on an empty mag. I fired one round and the bolt locked back. Check. In this case, since we are in the "break in" period, I cleared the weapon and ran the bore snake wet down with CLP through one time. I then loaded two rounds and fired one. Weapon should cycle and be ready for another shot with a proper trigger reset. For those who don't know, the disconnector on a semi auto does just that. As soon as you release the hammer from the trigger sear, you are no longer in control of the process. In the AR type weapons, the hammer strikes the firing pin which initiates the primer firing the round. The gas system cycles the action. During this time, the bolt carrier cocks the hammer but it is captured by the disconnector and not the trigger IF you are using a proper trigger follow through and keeping the trigger held to the rear. once the action closes on a fresh round, you then release the trigger. The disconnector releases the hammer which then gets captured by the trigger sear ready to be released again by your trigger manipulation. This you can feel and hear with the typcial AR "thunk" as the trigger resets. Thus the reason for the two round test is to check feeding and trigger disconnect. If the hammer were to not be captured by the disconnector, it would follow the bolt carrier home and possibly fire the cartridge thus (as we only loaded two) doubling. Rifle didn't double. Check. I ejected the live round from the chamber and ran the bore snake through again. I then loaded up five rounds and fired for effect on the head portion of the target. Yes the groups stink. Yes I was dealing with a sub optimal firing position and yes my 49 year old eyes could only make out a very fuzzy front sight and yes, the yet to be broken in DPMS gravally takeup trigger possibly contributed. I'm still pleased. PARTS of the groups indicate that the weapon is already way under minute of bad guy/zombie which is it's main purpose. More shooting will happen at a better range and next paycheck some glass will be ordered.
  12. Finished. Well, except for some glass, rounding off the trigger guard and I'm toying with the idea of a dazzle camo paint job. It was mentioned that the MOE hand guard would need to be modded but it would actually fit and very well with no mods at all were it not for the Troy HK style gas block front sight. The sight has a round sling attachment point on either side that was just preventing the upper hand guard from going fully home. Again, a few careful swipes of a file and they all fit together well. Next stop test fire. Am I the only guy who's got a Colfax lower project done? TG
  13. Already got it fixed. A little judicious cutting with a file safety'd with some tape and it's working fine. Hand guards and sling mounts tomorrow and then it's to the range for testing. After that, I may take a file to the trigger guard to round it off a little. It has a very sharp edge that digs into my middle finger the way I carry it when my trigger finger is along the receiver. Then it'll be some type of refinish of the lower and done except for looking for a scope but that's just gravy.
  14. So the upper arrived from Midway today and I have to say that for the most part I'm pleased with what I received. So far the only hitch is the bolt release. I remember reading here about someone having trouble with the bolt hold open and stating that "It will not lock back because the carrier is beveled..." That struck me as odd at the time because the bolt hold open is supposed to catch on the bolt and not the carrier. I now know why that person thought that and what the problem is/was. It turns out that the DPMS supplied bolt release needs to be releaved a bit to clear the upper so that it will rise in front of the bolt. As it is now, it comes up just enough to hit the carrier slightly. This is the only thing I need to do to have the weapon 100% functional on the bench. I just installed Troy flip up sights (which, true to what I've read are hell for stout) and am only awaiting a new hand guard and sling attachments and it'll be range time. The Colfax lower meets up very nicely with the upper. The rear pin boss is a very tight fit and I have to smack the receiver extension still to get it open but that is better than to loose. It has already moderated a bit and I'm sure will wear in nicely.
  15. Thanks Edge. I hear you about future safeties but at least I know about it now. Robo, you are correct. There is already a little bright spot on the boss where the safety is hitting it. Ordered the upper from Midway today (DPMS Oracal) and it should be here Monday or Tuesday. I told myself that I'd not go crazy with customizing but I already have a Magpul hand guard on the way. The whole reason for the new hand guard is that I want to have a sling swivel near the receiver so that the two attach points are at the front and rear of the action and the Magpul has a slick sling ring that attaches to the hand guard. After that, the only thing I see wanting is some type of glass. More pictures next week unless I get work busy. TG
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