BayouBob

The outside diameters of the Cooley muzzle brakes are listed in the chart on the JP Rifles web site. With a Cooley brake on my 308 the muzzle just sat still when I fired. Be prpared for LOUD though. If you shoot at a range where there are other shooters on either side of you, particulary a covered range you will Not be popular.

Do you send money to Gun Owners of America or the Second Amendment Foundation or do you just sit on the sidelines and gripe about the NRA and let others carry the load?

You can figure on your powder costing you around 20 cents per shot. Inexpensive bullets are around 30 cents each and premium bullets are close to 1 dollar each. Primers run around a nickel each. If you have or can scrounge brass it won't be a cost factor. (Although it does have a finite reloading life) If you buy new brass it will run you around 50 cents per for standard quality brass. So, you are looking at anywhere from $10 to $35 per box for the cost of your components. You will amortize your basic $3-400 reloading set-up in your first 30 boxes of ammo. Of course, as my Dad had to go and point out to my wife, you won't save money; you'll just get to shoot more!

When the OP goes to buy reloading components he will find them just as scarce as loaded ammo. Powder, primer and popular bullets are almost impossible to find.

Some folks have gotten outstanding accuracy with their MK 3's. Mine shoots right at an inch with Federal Gold Medal Match 168 gr. Sierra Matchkings. It took trying a couple of dozen loads before I finally found a hunting load that stays close to an inch. I settled on 165 gr. Sierra Gameking hollow points as the most accurate bullets out of my rifle.

If you look around I think you can find a front sight that is designed to sit on a low profile gas block and be in line with a standard height rear sight.

I agree with 98Z and the other guys about the gas block. Something isn't right about it. I put a PRI adjustable gas block on my CMMG 308 and cured all the problems the factory couldn't figure out. If you do replace the block go with an adjustable model; it only costs a few dollars more and you can tailor it to your rifle.

Are you getting any stovepipes on failure to eject? How did you establish the point to set the gas block? If it is too far back you may be banging the rear of your gas tube on the gas key. Check and see if it is getting bunged up. If it is too far forward you may not be getting enough gas into the tube or the gas may be getting around the edge of the gas key and not giving you enough pressure to consistently cycle.

They have a saying about Rossi, which I have unfortunately found to be true; "Their customers are their quality control department." I'm beginning to think the same can be said of CMMG.

They must not be big on tightening things at CMMG. In addition to the gassing problems, mine came with all the hand guard screws loose enough that the hand guard wobbled back and forth over 1/4 inch.

And the "Chosen One" shoots skeet all the time too. As if that has anything to do with the current argument.

Let us know how it works out. It will be interesting to see how many times he has too send it back to CMMG before they figure out it has a loose barrel.

Although the megalomaniac in the white house doesn't seem to care about a faded old piece of paper, I don't remember anything in the Constitution giving the president the authority to make law. It's a shame that when he does the joint chiefs don't order an airborne division to move into the white house and arrest him.

I tried the JP Cooley style muzzle brake on my CMMG. It made the recoil just go away but it doesn't reduce flash at all. I ended up getting a grind to fit Limbsaver pad and shaping it to fit the A-2 buttstock. You need a couple of spacers under the lower end and you may have to order a longer screw to attach it to the buffer tube but it ended up looking good and does a great job of reducing what little recoil a 308 has. Since I will do some night time hog hunting with my 308 I wanted flash suppression so I put the stainless bird cage flash hider from Armalite on the rifle.

Figured it out. The buffer spring appears to be a standard DPMS 308 heavy spring with 39 coils. The bolt catch was evidently a plain AR-15 catch. The flat part of the catch that sits down in slot of the receiver was just a little thinner than the slot was wide. That allowed it to lean a little bit toward the front of the receiver when the bolt pushed on it with the heavy spring causing the catch to bind and not want to move out of contact with the bolt and causing the bolt to wear a groove in the face of the catch. I replaced the catch with a DPMS purpose built AR 308 bolt catch. The DPMS catch is just a tiny bit thicker than the one that came on the rifle so there is no slop in its fit in the slot. Instantly, without even polishing the face of the catch, the pressure on the button to release the bolt catch dropped by 2/3. It takes just a little more effort to push the bolt release than on an AR-15. I can still tell there is a strong spring pushing against it but it is smooth. I have passed my observation on to CMMG since they didn't seem interested in addressing the issue.