DocLarsen

Just thought I would let you guys know that Possum Hollow's #61 bore guide, listed as being for an HK 91, works perfectly in my DPMS LAR-10. With the solvent port on it, it is even better. I used it to pre-clean the barrel in preparation for Tubb's Final Finish and Throat Maintenance bore lapping. I bought it on clearance from Midway for <$9.00. The Possum Hollow Chart shows #83 for the SR-25/AR-10, but the chart on Midway didn't show a number for them. So, I went ahead an bought this one on a hunch and it paid off. DocLarsen

Well, I bit the big one and bought my wife a Rebel T2I. Today was set up day so, since I had to take a picture anyway, I figured I might as well get a picture of my take on a SASS. More to come later DocLarsen

I'm waiting on several items: C Products 5 round magazine for hunting - they are waiting on components (assumed to be springs) ETA 7-10 days David Tubb - 2 boxes of Final Finish and 2 boxes of Throat Maintenance System loaded ammo for my Stevens Mod. 200 308 and the LR-308 Midway Sweets 7.62 Bore Cleaning Solvent Possum Hollow Bore Guide and Solvent Port Box of Prvi Partizan FMJ Boattail - bore burnishing ammo Sightmark laser bore sight Plano hard gun case Birchwood Casey Super Black Touch-up Pen DocLarsen

Do everyone a favor and buy a 40lb bag of powdered lime (not the pelletized form) or dolomite from the hardware store. It will remove the stink by keeping the pH up and will help the bacteria do its job of breaking down the materials. The job will be done faster as well. The acidic byproducts of decomposition are what stinks and the lower pH is not environmentally favorable for the bacteria. Don't let the compost get bone dry either. Slightly moist but by no means wet is the ideal. DocLarsen (former citrus farmer)

Matt, Thanks for the words of wisdom! Sounds like they are coming from a fella who KNOWS of what he speaks LOL DocLarsen

When I got my shipment from Bill Springfield, the lower receiver parts kit with his worked over stock trigger (which I LOVE, BTW) it included a pistol grip. Now, I also got a pistol grip (which I also love) with my ATI Strikeforce stock package. I also have a leftover AR-15 carbine buffer from that kit. My brother-in-law, who is married to my wife's sister, says that she loves her .223. In fact, he told me that he has been avoiding reloading .223 ammo because she will shoot it up faster than he can make it. ;D Since I have these "extra" two parts, one of which is interchangeable and the other which is AR-15 specific, and given what could be a genetic predisposition to enjoy shooting, I think I really ought to build my wife an AR-15. Do you guys agree?? (That's a rhetorical question <thumbsup>) DocLarsen

The following specs are DPMS parts that will allow an aftermarket AR-15 carbine buttstock with a commercial receiver extension/buffer tube, internal dimensions - 7" x 1", to be used on a DPMS LR-308: DPMS LR-308 Carbine Buffer Spring - Midway #: 813595 DPMS #: 308-CS-10A Relaxed Length - 11 3/8" Compressed Length - 3 1/4" 28 coils (inclusive of both ends) spring rate - ≈10lbs/in (tested over 2" travel from rest on buffer retainer pin) DPMS LR-308 Carbine Buffer - Midway #: 232006 DPMS #: 308-CS-10B Length - 2.938" Flange Diameter - 0.969" Barrel Diameter - 0.686" weight - 3.808 oz. DocLarsen edited to include tube dimensions

What I have is a commercial tube (internal dimensions=7" x 1" ) with a 6 position carbine butt stock made for an AR-15. The new DPMS buffer and spring arrived today. I installed them and everything works as it should. Well, at least everything works as it should short of actually firing the gun and having it cycle and/or catch the bolt after the last round. But, the spring/bolt travels far enough to allow the bolt catch to work properly. The bolt fully closes and locks from either pulling and releasing the charging handle or from releasing it off of the bolt catch with the button. I'll post the specs on the spring and buffer in the Buffer Tube, Buffer and Buffer Spring topic, but here is the info on the parts: DPMS LR-308 Carbine Buffer Spring - Midway #: 813595 / DPMS #: 308-CS-10A Relaxed Length - 11 3/8" Compressed Length - 3 1/4" 28 coils (inclusive of both ends) spring rate - ≈10lbs/in (tested over 2" travel from rest on buffer retainer pin) DPMS LR-308 Carbine Buffer - Midway #: 232006 DPMS #: 308-CS-10B Length - 2.938" Flange Diameter - 0.969" Barrel Diameter - 0.686" weight - 3.808 oz. Thanks everyone for you input and help! DocLarsen

TacBlade, Very nice, indeed!! If they make Krylon Fusion in the right color, this stuff is amazing! I bought my wife a used treadmill and repainted the belt with it and it looked great and stayed that way! If it can adhere to a vinyl belt that is walked on without peeling and cracking, I have no doubt that it will stay put on a Pmag with no problem. DocLarsen

TraderJack, I believe the 300 (now 400) yds. is based on an average hunter's ability to place a shot in a paper plate sized ring around the vitals and not the gun's/projectile's ability to inflict a humane shot. If you ever get a chance to check out a TV show called The Best of the West (I think it is that or something very similar), you'll see guys who practice long range ethical hunting in areas where you just can't get within 3-400 yards of a game animal. DocLarsen

latewatcher, Deja Vue all over again! See: Bolt Carrier Slipping off Catch Regards, DocLarsen

That sure is a pretty pistol, sir! I'd be proud to own a 3fiddy7 like that. DocLarsen

survivalshop, While waiting for the buffer and spring to get here, I nibbled away at the spring until it was short enough to allow the bolt stop to come up in front of the bolt. Specifically, the lugs are against the bolt stop. Of course, now the spring is not quite strong enough to completely close the bolt, but it allows me to test the functionality. I did your test and found that you are correct, but it does take a pretty good bounce of the butt stock to bounce the carrier enough to allow the bolt stop to retract and the bolt to go into battery, just as you said. Put in the empty mag and, again, just as you said. I took it a bit further and place a couple of rounds in the mag and cycled them through to make sure the bolt would catch on its own when the mag emptied; it worked as advertised. So, when the proper buffer and spring arrive, I should be in business. I am a little concerned though because DPMS told me that the .308 carbine buffer only weighs 0.238lb (3.808oz). This may be just a tad light for a mid-length gas system. What do you guys think?? I've also just ordered a PRI muzzle brake. I figure that if I have any problems, I'll take a que from Tubbs and get the total weight up closer to the 5.4 oz that Slash recommends by fabricating something like the CWS. I am not as concerned with recoil as I am with slamming the BCG around too hard or giving it enough momentum to get complete and full close & lockup of the bolt lugs. But keeping a good sight picture or, at least, minimizing the time to reacquire one after a shot is a nice thing too. Thanks, DocLarsen

Survivalshop, Are you saying that if you manually depress the bolt hold button on the side of the receiver and let the BCG slide forward after pulling the charging handle all the way back, that it is normal for the bolt stop to not hole the BCG open? If that is what you are saying then it goes against Brownell's first step of "Function Checking at the Bench": "1. Lock back the carrier, inspect the magazine well and chamber to ensure that the rifle is actually unloaded." While the mag follower should cause the bolt to hold open following the last round fired, I really don't think that is the only way the bolt can be locked open. Virtually every semi-automatic gun that I have ever handled had a mechanism to lock the bolt open and then release it. Am I missing something? DocLarsen

TacBlade, You are half right. The buffer was too long, so I shortened it, but once I got it to the proper theoretical length it was still no go. The problem is that the spring is wrong too and I am now getting coil bind at just under 1/2 inch from where I need to be. Bottom line, I have to get DPMS part nos: 308-CS-10A and 308-CS-10B. This is a carbine length buffer and spring for the .308. Midway has them for $25 for the buffer and $5.00 for the spring. I am going to fill the buffer I shortened with lead and I'll have it for a spare. Thanks, DocLarsen

I think I've already figured it out. My butt stock's buffer tube is not deep enough and this doesn't allow my bolt to come back far enough for the bolt stop to get in front of the bolt and stop it. It was trying to grab that very tiny lip on the carrier just below where the bolt enters it. What I am going to have to do is get an buffer tube extension to put in front of the butt stocks buffer tube, which is a commercial length AR-15 tube and is not long enough to accept the .308 longer throw on its own. I am sort of surmising here, so does that make sense to the more experienced here? Thanks, DocLarsen

Hey guys, I just finished the assembly of my lower assembly and while testing things I engaged the bolt stop. It held for maybe 10 seconds and then the carrier slammed forward. Thinking it was operator error, I tried it several more times with the exact same result. I noticed that someone took a little off the bolt stop so that it could pivot more, thereby allowing the bolt stop to extend higher. Is this a good way to proceed or is this something that I did wrong? It is a pretty simple system, so I can't imagine what I could have done wrong. The pivot pin is screwed all the way in, could I have used the wrong return spring and it is overpowering the push of the carrier and disengaging the stop? (I did have an extra spring; It is one like the take down and pivot detent springs.) Not enough push from a wrong buffer spring to cause enough friction on the bolt stop? BTW, I got the Bill Springfields complete lower kit with the trigger work done: 4lb pull and "speed hammer". Trigger feels soooo nice and crisp! Any ideas? Thanks, DocLarsen edit for clarification - DL

cchao, The other evening I engaged the bolt in the lugs for the first time with only WD-40 on it and it stuck tight. imschure was online and told me to wrap the butt stock on the floor and it disengaged, but it had me worried for a bit. I took the bolt and carrier apart and painted every individual part (I think I did the cam pin 2 or 3 times) and the inside of the receiver with Mobil 1 using an artist's paint brush (10W-30 Extended Performance 'cause that is what I use in my cars.) I made sure to do the lugs for the bolt and the lugs and ramps on the barrel extension extra heavy. And, I'll probably do it a couple of more times before I fire it. (Now, I am even thinking more seriously about using some Slick 50 or something like that :-) I have cycled the bolt many times and even cycled several shells through (that I dropped into the chamber since my lower is not together yet) and have had zero problems since. The Mobil 1 made it slicker than the proverbial minnow's male member!. This nothing like firing rounds as far as operation goes, so please keep us informed! I am putting together an 18" SASS, DPMS chrome bcg and DPMS receivers (A3 upper), so I am very interested. I just put several more rounds through and checked them with a hand glass. Only thing I saw was the little bite marks from the extractor and small scratch from where I popped them out of the Pmag they were in, but nothing unusual. BTW, I don't know if you noticed that someone mentioned the Bushmaster manual being applicable to both Bushmaster and DPMS (I think it was imschur), but it is much better than the DPMS manual, IMHO.

Here is another very affordable alternative from McMaster-Carr (if you are a DIY guy, this is a place you have to know about: I ordered a LOT of stuff from these guys when I was building my car. You can order as little or as much as you want and they ship FAST.) High Temperature–Flat Finish Aerosol Paint Dry Time Size, To the Coverage, sq. Max. Application net wt. Touch Overall ft. @ Thickness Temp. Temp. Range Available Colors Product No. Each 11 oz. 30 min. 2 hrs. 20 @ 1 mil 1200° F 50° to 95° F Aluminum, Black, Gray, White 7832T1 $4.79 They also have some 2500° F stuff - $69.41 qt.

You might want to take a look at Eastwood's black oxide EW Metal Blakening Concentrate and Kits . This would also work great for nuts, bolts, screws and various hardware. They also make all manner header coatings from hi-temp paint to hi-temp powder coatings and many in between: Eastwood Header Coatings. DocLarsen

SWshooter, Mega makes some very nice monolithic parts; a wee bit pricey though. Also Adams Arms, LMT and Noveske all offer various forms of monolithic parts. See Rainier Arms - monolithic key word for some of them. DocLarsen

Finally got a chance to do some measurements on the 308 SASS Gas Block. DocLarsen

When mocking up my rifle, the bolt stuck closed. Thanks to imschur and some WD40, I did get it open. When I found no lube (type) recommendation in the DPMS manual, I thought I'd try some Mobil 1 since that is what I use in all of my cars. I was happy to see this thought confirmed here. But, then I thought, "what about taking it one step further?" Has anyone tried painting the inside of the upper and the BCG with Slick 50 or any of the engine additives with PTFE in them? I am considering doing this and letting it sit on the parts during the build process. Then wiping everything down and lubing with Mobil 1 when testing/break-in time comes. The PTFE in these products is microscopic and shouldn't really clog up or change dimensions of anything, but it sure seems like it would raise the lubricity of the moving parts. The only draw back that I can think of is that it might prevent the parts from "breaking in." Perhaps I should wait until after some rounds have been fired. What do you guys think?? DocLarsen

10-4 SWshooter, the handguard in question is the new DPMS SASS handguard seen below. While I am waiting for my barrel wrench, I bought a couple of strap wrenches that came in a single pack at Sears for $13, so that I could mock things up a little closer to final than hand tight. What I am trying to achieve (and what I believe survialshop was talking about in the previously mentioned post) is having everything tightened to the rear of the gun AND have the rails lined up at the same time. When using a jamb nut to lock the tube with the rails lined up, there are two degrees of freedom (3 if you include the barrel nut itself) which can serve to loosen the assembly. With everything tightly stacked from the receiver forward, only the tube loosening can loosen the assembly as only the barrel falling off ::) or the upper receiver fracturing would allow forward movement of any of the parts. I know this is kind of picking the fly poop out of the pepper and judicious use of loctite would greatly reduce the chances of loosening. But as survivalshop said, the goal is a more monolithic final product. Does anyone know the thread size of the two types of barrel nuts? I still can't find them; rough measurement makes me think that they are 1¼"-? Thank you all, DocLarsen Edit to comment on pictures: The top picture is not quite right. I don't know what the round thing on the lower right end of the HG is, but it is not on mine. Mine look exactly like the bottom pic.

I don't have a digital camera at the moment. My FFHG has a jamb nut, of sorts. It is very thin and have very little contact with the handguard. I would like very much to have more contact on the handguard so as to have it be more monolithic in the same way as survivalshop was going for in the previously mentioned thread and to have the rails line up in the same way his did as well. DocLarsen