N Jensen

Here are few photos of the my LR rifle action cycling, you can see the muzzle blast forming, gas venting from the colt carrier. These photos came from a series of photos and I just picked out the most interesting ones.

The rifle really looks nice, I like to hear about the scope as well.

Sounds like the ammo is loaded hot, whenever the extractor slips over the rim and one needs a cleaning rod to knock the case out means to much pressure. I would suggest a couple of things to try, seat the bullets a little deeper say .010 to .015. It gives the bullet a little running start before getting to the lands. Or remove the bullet, reweigh the charger 1g to 1.5g lighter charge, reseat the bullet. Lastly, sell the ammo to someone who has no issues with their rifle shooting the ammo.

I think everyone gave you some very good advice. The only thing I could add is to check the firing pin to see if it is below flush of the bolt face when it is still fully fwd. Before the cam retracts into the carrier. It should below the face and not just even with the face. I have heard of long firing pins and he had several slam fires before figuring it out. I load single rounds a lot about 40 or so during a match, but never had a slam fire.

I think Tiger Woods must be thinking the same thing then, LOL

Accuracy kind be a loose term at times. I tired to explain to friend that accuracy has a lot to do with what you are willing to accept. A 1 MOA rifle is fairly easy to get too and to shoot almost every time. 1/2 MOA a little harder, bedding, laping lugs higher quaility barrel, shooting groups 1/2 MOA groups take a little more work. 1/4 MOA rifles even harder, one can build a gun trying to get a 1/4 or less and rarely do it. But we keep trying because we like shooting. I been shooting HP for many years, I do not always shoot nice little groups all the time, I remember more bad groups then good ones. It's just nice to get a picture of one and stick on the wall.

I shot this 10 shot group at 300yds with a LR 6.5 with iron sights. The picture isn't the best as I took it looking through my spotting scope. It was during a 800 point agg match, timed fire 70 sec time limit. There was shot a little high out of the group right on the line, just wished I had it more centered up in the x-ring.

The newest version of the 155 MK I believe comes with a plastic tip and new BC of .519 , which is real good. Older version should cost a little less, but it depends on where you buy them. If you are not shooting very far, the 168 would work just fine, just shoot a lighter charge of powder.

I should asked in the last post your thought on barrel length, are you in the 18inch fan club, Stiffer is better. Or a little longer 24 to 26 inch or longer. Might as well stire up that subject up again.

I'm just curious on the bullet you plan to use, a 123 or 142, or something else. Also shooting rounds from the mag or single loading. If single loading one could move bullet fwd and add more powder. The 123 being a .500 BC or so can be shot mag length and have plenty of velocity to go a 1K. It just something to think about. Also if you try F class, a muzzle break isn't allowed. Anyway, I was just curious.

For the person who is building a M1A, when your ready to glass bed, install gas system, set the timmimg, re work the rear sight, and whatever else you want to know. I can walk you through, not hard to do, a little more work than glassing a bolt gun.

Anyone shooting a 260 rem (not a bolt gun) and if so, what loads are you using? I'm working on 142MK with H4350 at 41.0g and 9 1/2 rem primmer. About .015 off the lands (single firing, not from the mag). Need to test it yet, but thats where I'm at right now. I have settled on 123Mk mag length, 42.5g H4350 and 9 1/2 primmer. Just curious what loads you are using, thats all.

I have a used 26 inch in a 6mm wildcat that was on my LR. One can make into a 243, the gas port is moved fwd 2 inches as well. Send it you for 50 bucks.

No need to move the knobs until your ready to bore sight it. I do it all the time. Pick something out about 100yds away through the bore of the rifle, tail light, something on on a roof, light pole. Anyway, just line up the bore on it, and without moving the upper, look through the scope and see where it is. Adj the scope is backwars, turning the knob to the left moves the cross hair to the right same for vertical up is moving cross hair is down. Repeat until the cross hair lines up in the center of what you see in the bore, then go shoot. Have fun.

Is it possible that the brass is not new but has been reloaded several times at max loads? If so the primmer pocket gets bigger over reloading of hot loads and eventually the primers will seat very easy without much effort at all.