ironmonster

I dont get on her often, if your deal falls though give me a shout at seattle tool guy at yahoo dot com all squished together.

Rainer gives you the option to return any barrel for 90 days for a full refund, no questions ask. So just buy a barrel from them and you dont have to worry about getting a bad one. (I have 5 of there rebranded barrels ranging from the econo model to the ultra match and have been happy as could be with all of them)

I was gonna say that, But you said it a lot better than I could have. ^-^

Anyone have issues with the mag catch being long enough to work through the adaptor block? Mine was not secure. It "kind of" worked but every once in a while a mag would simply fall out. On inspection only about a 32nd was catching. I tig welded on a dab of inconel and polished it up. Big improvement. Is this a typical issue?

I just accquired a pile of oly arms .45 carbine parts consisting on an upper and 6 mags. The mags are .45 UZI mags with a spacer block welded to each mag so they fit in a standard lower. I really dont have any experiance with the stuff and honastly am not sure what I am going to do with it (I want to build it into something and play with it for a bit but after that I am not sure. I dont have much else in the way of .45 and its not the cheapest thing to plink with) I have heard mixed feedback about the Olympic stuff. I have personally had a few items they built that I was not impressed with. This stuff seems better than some. Same guy I got this from has a 9MM Oly AR pistol that he wants to move that I might try and talk him out of. Similar set up in that it takes propriatary mags and uses a standard lower with no adapter.

I dont know anything about them but I know Rainer Arms offers .22LR dedicated parts branded by them. Not sure who builds these but Mega builds there Rainer branded uppers and lowers http://www.rainierarms.com/rainier-arms-ruc-22-lr-upper-black?___SID=U

I thought maybe I could reach down in with the tail of some 8" calipers but because of the substantial bevel around the chamber I can't get an accurate measurement. I'd have to pull the barrel and don't have time at the moment. I come up with .137 but because of going through the upper it's not straight enough to accept that as the number. I am assuming that + .002 would likely be at the edge of no go range?

I have not checked headspace, I can pull the barrel and check using your measurement and a pair of calipers. It was an assembled and test fired upper from PSA ( I know that means little, but it should have been checked at least I ramped the bolt this morning, put a 5 deg ramp which ends up being like 1.250" long. A high speed endmill wouldn't touch it, I ended up hand grinding it with a dynafile, glassbeading it and then putting some birchwood Casey barrel brown on it (blue would have been better but it's what I had). It's not perfect, but should do what I did it to do ;-)

I got the KNS pins in there already. I read about it being brutal on the hammer pin so I jumped for those from the get go. I can ramp the bolt probably easier than change out the hammer if you think that is the ticket. I found a couple of posts on ARF.com laying out how to machine the bolt. I got a mill and it sounds like its no more than 15 minutes worth of work.

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/triggers-parts/hammer-parts/hammers/car-15-m4-9mm-hammer-prod44737.aspx ?

I have no first hand experiance, but from what I could find online it seems like the ramped bolt is about not putting so much stress on the hammer pin?

I can do that tomorrow, but 99% sure its just a standard AR hammer.

Hey 9MM is what, about .35 caliber? I know its not .308 but you guys are the only AR specific forum I visit so I figured it was my best hope of some helpful info. This is my first pistol caliber AR and I have only shot a handful of them over the years. Over the 4th PSA had a 9MM rifle kit for $399 Seemed like a reasonable thing to jump into. So I got the thing, put it together (seemed to go well enough) Took it out today and had issues. It seems to manually cycle and chamber a round fine, however pull the trigger and most of the time you just get a click. Seem to be quite light on the primer strike but I did get a few to fire (maybe 4 out of 20?) Using the mag I bought from PSA every round chambered failed to fire. Using a IWI 9MM Tavor mag (which snapped right in) I got a few to go bang but mostly FTF. (I cant imagin that the mag has anything to do with it, but ) tried a couple different types of ammo, not a disenable difference Just looking at the bolt it seems like the firing pin is free and has enough movement to do the job. It does seem to not sit very proud of the bolt where the hammer strikes it. The hammer is stopped far before the pin can bottom (and its spring loaded) I ordered a Wolff extra power hammer spring. What else should I look at? The PSA kit is a nonramped bolt and uses a standard LPK. It does come with a 9MM specific buffer and action spring. I didn’t think about taking a pic of the light primer strikes. I ran the FTF's through my handgun without issue so at this point I can’t show how they looked.

............

Bought two of those ASO Blems. Thanks for the heads up.