josiahg52

I've used Pelicans for years in the mil. I knew when I first got mine, the latches felt different. Took it on its first trip in 2006 and was shocked to see them popped open when I picked it up. Thought it was a fluke but it happened on the return trip. Happened again on another trip then I started using rubber straps to hold the latches down but they would roll off sometimes. I tried using adjustable nylon straps but looked like any fool putting them on at check in. Then one day flying out of Norfolk, the TSA guy asked why/what I was doing. He said, why don't you just tape them and got me a roll of tape. From then on I flew with a roll of Gorilla tape. i bought two more Pelicans and had custom inserts made and those latches clearly operate differently. I contacted Pelican about my 1750 and they were definitely in disbelief and insisted there was no issue but finally sent me new latches. So I relegated the 1750 to local trips or ones where I am driving myself which it does perfectly fine.

They never had a problem. This was in addition to padlocks.

Open: Closed:

The latch issue became such an issue that I'd wrap them with 100 mph tape after the TSA/airline inspection.

I have two other, different Pelicans with custom built inserts and they latch completely different. They're almost painful to operate. The 1750 seems to "roll" closed in stages.

I did many years ago after I purchased two more cases - different sizes and shapes - and experienced no such issues. They sent me new latches. Never got around to installing them as what they sent appears to utilize a different style hinge. Wasn't sure of compatibility.

Not too much lately. Before, seven, eight times a year.

I'm looking for a soft case to transport my AR-10 around. It's scoped and is about 40" long. Would like room for a bipod, suppressor, other junk. I have a Pelican 1750 and it would be great if it could fit in there. I wouldn't be against replacing the 1750 as when flying with it, the latches don't stay latched. When I pick it up, the padlocks are the only thing keeping it closed. Not sure if it's defective or what. Seen the LaRue M.O.A.B. made by someone, Armageddon Gear SASS Precision Rifle Case. They seem decent. Any suggestions?

It's a good rifle. I do have one 'T' part on my rifle: the ejection port door cover pin. Needed it to fit the Lite Rail. ArmaLite sent it to me free and saved me cutting down my factory one.

It was a price thing vs. what I wanted in the end. I got the DEF10 new for $786 out the door. The AR-10T was much more than that new and was going for more than that even used and I'd be tossing some of those nicer parts anyway: handguard, buttstock, trigger. Seemed to be a waste. Guess I still ended up with a box of unused parts regardless.

All of this was written in Word before posting since it was a large amount of content. It all looked good in the post window and then posted differently. Thought I'd have time after posting the rest of the "story" to try and correct the extra space in the first.

Hmm, sorry about the extra space in the first post. Can't seem to edit it now that I know how to eliminate the space. Was able to do it in another post in reply to another thread but maybe this thread is different because I started it? EDIT: No, I edited this one so is it a time limit? Must be super short.

I think I may have only two or three pictures of it. As it was, the one above is from 2019. It might be the only one showing it's current configuration the closest. I'll take some more next time it's out.

I have one of these on my bench. When I was first planning my AR-10 modification, I had settled on an AAC suppressor and bought the Brakeout 2.0 Compensator. Man, it was so loud. Ended up going with a Griffin.

Lower: Geissele SSA trigger Norgon ambidextrous magazine release Aero Precision M5 extended magazine button Knight’s Armament Company ambidextrous safety Badger Ordnance AR-10/SR-25 Enhanced Bolt Catch Magpul enhanced trigger guard Magpul UBR (Gen 1) Buttstock w/Impact Weapon Components CSAP and Grovtec limited rotation push button bases Heavy Buffers CAR-10 XH (6.5 oz) buffer and spring Magpul MIAD Grip Upper: Daniel Defense 7.62 Lite Rail 12.0 SLR Sentry 7 adjustable gas block, set screw KAC ambidextrous charging handle Griffin Armament Flashcomp suppressor mount Griffin Armament Recce7 suppressor KAC Pan and Swivel QD Bipod w/Atlas extensions Optics: Griffin Armament M2 flip-up front sight, left side offset Griffin Armament M2 flip-up rear sight, left side offset Badger Ordnance 20MOA Unimount Leupold 3-18x44mm Mark 6 w/illuminated TMR Weight: Empty - 8 pounds and 2.358 ounces w/iron sights(2.534 ozs) - 8 lbs, 4.892 ozs +w/optic in mount(28.396 ozs) - 10 lbs, 3.822 ozs +w/empty KAC SR-25 magazine(7.8 ozs) - 10 lbs, 11.622 ozs +w/suppressor(17.744 ozs) - 11 lbs, 13.366 ozs +w/bipod (15.144 ozs) - 12 lbs, 12.51 ozs

The ArmaLite AR-10A catch always worked for me. After I installed a Norgon magazine release, I felt I needed a more pronounced bolt catch. I tried a few and they all worked for me as intended but were clearly sized differently which concerned me in the long term. Ended up using the Badger Ordnance Enhanced Bolt Catch. It's the right size in the right places and looks like it'll last.

So, I hope you find some of the info above interesting or helpful. I enjoyed making it work and there might be a few small changes here and there but I think my build has reached some level of maturity and completion.

Since I planned to suppress this rifle from the outset, I decided that I should have an adjustable gas block. There are many out there but the SLR Sentry got the nod. I liked the positive click and there is no chance of it drifting from the setting I choose. If you believe what SLR says, the design reduces or eliminates the probability of the adjustment becoming fouled with carbon and firing debris. When I had the SS Keymod rail installed, the clamp-on Sentry 7 block fit fine. Upon installing the DD rail, I realized I had to switch to the set-screw block. I bought a barrel dimpling jig from SLR and quickly had the new gas block installed after dimpling the barrel nearest the gas block journal. I don't recall how many turns open I have the gas block now. As a left-handed shooter firing a suppressed autoloader, there is a blast of firing gas in my face with every round. It’s not super fun but not prohibitive. I will look to further reduce this though additional means.

This rifle has gone through several changes. At first I was using the BAD-CASS safety which I like very much but wanted something that looked more like a standard safety. The BAD-CASS safety is the one that utilizes dovetails ad screw to affix a myriad of different lever styles. Thought about the Colt ambi safety but like the scalloped lever of the Knight’s ambidextrous safety. While the Colt safety is completely ambidextrous and the long and short levers can be installed on either (or both) sides, the Knight’s only allows the right side lever to be changed. I machined the long (standard AR) “permanent” lever on the left side of the Knight’s to mimic the scalloped lever that was also included that could be installed on the right side if desired. After the modification, I installed the included standard long lever on the right side which essentially reverses the configuration it comes in as standard from KAC. Now I had an ambi safety with scalloped left side and long right side levers. You could do similar modification to the Colt safety but it wouldn’t have ‘KAC’ on it. I first installed an AXTS (now called Radian, I believe) Raptor ambidextrous charging handle. I think the Raptor is or was available under numerous trade names under license. I considered the Badger Ordnance Gen 3 and the Griffin Armament SNACH. I plan to shoot this rifle suppressed so the SNACH was out as I fire left-handed. Unfortunately, that meant the PRi Gas Buster was also out. While I liked the Raptor very much and it ran fine, I wanted something that looked more like the original GI charging handle. The KAC ACH fits the bill for me and works very well. The KAC ACH doesn’t do much for mitigating gas from lingering around my face, however. I may perform the RTV mod and drill a hole on the left side to help with any gas. Since I started writing this, AXTS (now Radian) has come out with the Freedom Bone (now Raptor SD) charging handle. That seems like it would work and the reports are good but at $100, I don’t know if I want to risk being disappointed. Armageddon Tactical has released the GMS-10-EVO charging handle. I like the design but one bit of copy: “redesigned solid latching system that eliminates the need for spring tension to overcome the gas blow back pressure from a cycled round” has me confused what the EVO offers in addition to the additional gas diversion features over the Gen II model. It uses a silicone seal and I wonder how long the seal is expected to last. It’s marginally cheaper than the Raptor SD. The ultimate charging handle for me would be an ambidextrous GI charging handle that had gas mitigating properties. I’d be okay with that, maybe install a tactical latch from Badger on it. I chose the Aero Precision magazine release button as it just tall enough and looks like a standard issue GI button which is the look I want. I’m left handed and thought the Norgon ambi magazine catch would be helpful. It’s very low profile and doesn’t stand out but it’s not the game-changer I expected. I still install one on every AR I have.

What makes a good trigger is subjective. There are many triggers out there from the newer, exotic Huber Concepts to the tried-and-true single stages from ArmaLite, Daniel Defense, and even Geissele. Rock River Arms makes a quite decent 2-stage National Match trigger and I’ve used one extensively in a large frame AR with great success. I knew that a good “match’ trigger is probably going to be a 2-stage so that is what I limited my search for. I’ve had a lot of experience with the Geissele triggers from the SSF to G2S. I quickly settled on the SSA as a “safe” choice meaning one that I would expect to create little or no drama. It is a good trigger even if some find it too heavy. I also considered the Jewell, and the Geissele SSA-E or Natonal Match. The Geissele SSA dropped in with no problems and as I predicted, didn’t detract from the shooting experience. I may consider the SSA-E at a later date.

I knew I wanted an adaptable forearm like the CSASS requirements stipulate but the question was which one. I wanted it to be light, free-float and to cover the gas block but still allow access for gas adjustment. That meant less than 16 ounces and about 12”. I also wanted a true Picatinny rail on top of the rail, continuous preferred and did not prefer the “clamp-on” style handguards. I looked at a lot of rails. The first thing you notice is that ArmaLite compatibility is not the primary platform accessories are supplied for. Clearly, we all know that but it’s strange that a company who has manufactured three different versions of the same type of rifle now finds themselves the de facto standard in all but name that accessories are offered for. This is unfortunate for us ArmaLite operators but it’s maddening simply because of the laziness, ineptness or plain ignorance of retailers and manufacturers. How many rabbit holes did I go down looking at a rail I liked to eventually find that although it was advertised and marketed as an “AR-10” rail, it really meant DPMS/LR-308? Even then, finding out which of the DPMS versions it was for could provide tedious. Sometimes a DPMS rail can be used on an ArmaLite or Rock River 308AR. I put a DPMS (don’t ask me which version) on my LAR-8 and put hundreds and hundreds of rounds through it. I’m convinced that some of these retailers list the rails vaguely to create clicks and get traffic to their websites or rather don’t want to limit clicks by being specific. It’s really simple: nine times out of 10 it’s either DPMS/LR-308 compatible or it’s ArmaLite/AR-10 compatible (yes, I know there is also the LAR-8 and two BAR-10 versions). Both of them are “large frame” ARs or AR308/308AR, etc. but they can only be one or the other. That may not be how a majority of people WANT to see it but at this time, that is the reality of the situation and it would help customers immensely if the manufacturers and retailers could get on board. Okay, rant over. I considered the Wilson Combat Tactical Rail Interface, Modular (T.R.I.M.) rail but wasn’t sure I wanted to adopt a completely different rail interface. It’s not terribly heavy at the advertised (not weighed) one pound. I also saw that Wilson Combat offers an M-LOK rail that uses the same barrel nut as the T.R.I.M. rail. Unfortunately, they decided to go away from a standard Picatinny rail on the top rail, probably to save weight; 12.2 ounces advertised weight. That made it a no-go for me. The T.R.I.M. rail is still available at a much reduced price so I may still pick one up. Wilson Combat Handguards and Wilson Combat AR-10 12” T.R.I.M. I did pick up A Noveske (SWS) N6 10.5” rail and the required Superior Weapon Systems (SWS) barrel nuts. Never got around to installing it. The 10” N6 rail weighs 12.855 ounces and the barrel nut(s) weigh 4.102 ounces each; one is required for installation. Noveske has moved from the AR-10 platform but SWS still offered ArmaLite rails up until a couple of years ago. I used to send an email to Art every couple of months asking him to make an M-LOK rail that uses the same barrel nuts his other rails do just to keep the idea going but SWS seems to be gone, unfortunately. Some people are leery about the SWS/Noveske rails because there is no integral anti-rotation feature in place. You decide if that is a deal breaker or not. There was not much difference between the old N6 and the latest SWS rails. The Noveske rail adds a QD socket close to the receiver and it has Noveske on it so it’s automatically better. Thanks, Art, for some great products! PRI offers their ubiquitous carbon fiber rails for the AR-10. I’ve used one on a Mk12 and like it for what it is. That wasn’t really the look I was going for with my AR-10, however, even though a 308AR with PRI furniture would look pretty good. Troy Industries used to make a few for the AR-10 but they seem to focus on the LR-308 only and even then, most are not available. I would like an SDMR rail that mounted on a GI barrel nut like the AR-15 version they already sell. Unfortunately, the LR-308 version they offer now uses a proprietary barrel nut and the rail clamps on to the nut. Troy products seem to be heavy and some people don’t want to do business with them. Really was hoping that the Geissele rail for the AR-10 would come to fruition but alas, that does not seem like it’ll ever happen. I send an email every six months or so asking about them just to let them know I’d want one. Contact Geissele here: https://geissele.com/contact JL Billet makes very light M-LOK rails and offers an ArmaLite barrel nut if you ask but I could never get used to their look. They are nice looking, though, just not what I wanted for this rifle. JL Billet LR308/AR-10 M-LOK Rails ArmaLite offers what seems like very good rails. They get great reviews, anyway. Again, not what I wanted for this rifle although the AR10 TAC 12" Handguard Kit may find its way on my rifle someday. ArmaLite AR-10 Handguards JP Rifles offers two A Series modular handguards for all of the common platforms: the MK III Signature and MK III Rapid Configuration are available for the LAR-8, both BAR-10 versions, AR-10, SR25 and one of the DPMS versions in five different lengths. Impressive. They look to be solid and basic handguards. It’s unfortunate that JP doesn’t offer more ArmaLite compatible parts. I’m considering using the Signature series rail, their 6.5CM barrel, and enhanced bolt and LMOS bolt carrier in my 6.5CM rifle. VSeven makes a “hyper-light” M-LOK handguard made out of magnesium. At an advertised two ounces even, that’s pretty light. It is offered for the “308DPMS/SR25” but ArmaLite barrel nuts with the 1 7/16”-18TPI threads are available if you ask. I wasn’t sure about magnesium and like Wilson Combat’s M-LOK rail, the top rail is not a true Picatinny rail. For my rifle I wanted a true Picatinny rail. VSeven Hyper-Light M-LOK Handguard LaRue Tactical made a rail for the AR-10 some time ago but you’ll likely not find one. The contemporary AR-15 rail is a very rugged piece that I would call lightweight. I imagine the AR-10 version is not light either. Samson Manufacturing makes a few different rails that look very nice. The SXS Lightweight 15” is pretty nice looking but it’s too long for my setup as it is sits right now. After I further prove my setup and/or find that I’m not adjusting my gas block as often I thought I would, I may look into it further to see if it’ll fit at all. The STAR10 is a two-piece handguard for those with fixed front sight bases and there’s no need to remove the FSB. The SXS 762 series is probably the one I would go with but again, it’s too long as it is for where I’m at now. I think Samson might sell a few more if they offered a few different lengths. My feeling is that the lack of length options is ultimately Samson moving on to the DPMS “low” and “G2” receivers only. It’s unfortunate that that might be the case. This is another group that I contact regularly asking about other lengths for their rails. Contact Samson Manufacturing here: https://www.samson-mfg.com/contact-us.html Apex Machining Company makes a couple of handguards in various lengths. I didn’t look into them much or at all – I can’t remember anything specific. SLR Rifleworks makes some pretty nice looking handguards for the various 308AR rifles to include the AR-10. They are in the “SDMR’ style and I may get one just to have options. For two more ounces, you can have a nice M-LOK rail with a continuous top rail if you purchase the MI SS. I chose a Keymod rail and the Midwest Industries SS Keymod 12” rail (MI-AR10SSK12). It is light at 12.43 ounces including the barrel nut and screws. This is more than the stated weight on MI’s website and is nearly identical to the stated weight of the M-LOK rail but that’s what I measured my Keymod rail at. The MI rails are deceptively light and seem very strong. I moved on from Keymod and traded for the M-LOK version (MI-AR10SSM12). I’m sure it’ll make it on another rifle someday. Ultimately, I ended up with a Daniel Defense 7.62 Lite Rail 12.0. It is heavy – 1 pound, 2.106 ounces with the barrel nut and backing plate/hardware – but it is a beast and it looks great. That being said, if DD made an M-LOK rail that fit up the same way as the 7.62 Lite Rail, I’d purchase it in a second. I told them as much but they frankly admitted that now that they’ve made their own proprietary 308AR (the V5), they have no plans to make any more rails for the other platforms. It’s understandable, I guess. I’m happy with the handguard I have now but wouldn’t mind a lighter option or just more options generally. If I had machinist skills or a good buddy with those skills, I might make up some barrel nuts for a KAC rail or some other one that’s out there. The barrel nut thread appears to be the limiting factor for most AR308 rail compatibility.

The Army’s CSASS requirement stipulated a modular grip. After reading about the MIAD from Magpul, it seemed to be the one to beat. It comes with many options: three different sized (L, M, S) back straps, two different front straps (A1 or A2) and is available with a gap filler for the AR-10 making it suitable for use on the large frame ARs. It also has several different “cores” that can be used to carry lubricant or batteries and other items. I’m currently using the large back strap, gap filler and A2 front strap with the bottle core. I’ve not put anything in the bottle yet and don’t know if I might get a different core. The grip is well made but I changed the screw to a standard GI style. I’ve personally not had good luck with the “combination” screws. Not with Magpul’s specifically but with the concept and execution in general. Another grip I tried before I really modified the rifle was the Tango Down BG-17 Battlegrip. There is nothing wrong with the BG-17 and it found its way to another rifle after I installed the MIAD on my AR-10. Incidentally, I’ve also tried the BG-16 on another rifle and like it, too. Other grips I considered were modular grips offered by Bravo Company and ERGO, two that I’ve also used before on other rifles. Any of the grips should serve you well on any large frame AR and even an AR-15.

The Operation and Caliber requirements were clearly met. This turned out to be a very accurate and reliable rifle, before and after the modifications and additions. <1 MOA groups at 100 yards are simple and require little effort. Ringing a 2” gong at 200 yards is easy and almost boring. The suppressor makes the groups even smaller and moves them up about 3/4”. The movement is repeatable and consistent even when removing and reinstalling the suppressor during the same shooting session. The majority of rounds I’ve fired are Winchester 150gr FMJ (in the white box). I also have fired American Eagle 168gr OTM M1A and FGMM 168gr. I have some Hornady 155gr ELD Match and Black Hills 168 and 175gr BTHP new ammunition that I want to try. It seems to shoot .308 Winchester or 7.62x61mm NATO equally well. It has proven to be compatible with 7.62x51mm NATO and meets the Army’s Accuracy requirement both suppressed and unsuppressed. The rifle measures 35.6” with the Magpul UBR stock collapsed completely. With the stock extended fully, my rifle is 38.9” I was able to meet the Size requirements of the Army’s CSASS proposal. Some weights: Empty - 8 pounds and 2.358 ounces. w/iron sights (2.534 ozs) - 8 lbs, 4.892 ozs w/optic in mount (28.396 ozs) - 10 lbs, 3.822 ozs w/empty KAC SR-25 magazine (7.8 ozs) - 10 lbs, 11.622 ozs w/suppressor and mount (17.744 ozs) - 11 lbs, 13.366 ozs w/KAC bipod (15.144 ozs) - 12 lbs, 12.51 ozs I met the Army’s Weight requirement for the CSASS by coming in under 9 pounds unloaded without sights or accessories. It’s a lot of rifle but the weights are decent for a rifle setup like this. I think it could be lightened but it functions really well and I don’t want to mess with that right now. The Magpul MIAD is a configurable grip and the Geissele SSA is a non-adjustable match-style trigger so I met the Grip and Trigger requirements. I’ve only had one failure in 536 rounds. The failure was on the first shot from the rifle where the case was not extracted and the second round was driven into the back of the empty case. Once I cleared that and ran a bore snake through the chamber and bore a few times and it has been flawless since. 230 of the 536 rounds was shot suppressed. Since getting the suppressor, I’ve field stripped and cleaned the rifle once after 200 rounds. I use Militec-1 lubricant and have used it on a majority of my firearms for many, many years. After conditioning, I only use a thin coating on all the normal surfaces and points. Too much Militec-1 and it becomes an absolute mess when storing the rifle. Militec-1 is not a preservative, by the way. I could never really replicate and test to the M110 operational and environmental condition testing but so far, my rifle has proven capable and fully functional. I call the “Other“ requirement a wash but I gave it a good go. I really like the Daniel Defense Lite Rail for the AR-10. It is a heavy, bulky, old-school quad rail. I don’t care. It looks great and works. It’s funny that what is old is new again and people want a quad rail again. By choice, I did not meet the Hand guard requirement for the CSASS. I do have a Midwest Industries MLOK hand guard that would work if I wanted to use it. My dream hand guard would be an MLOK that mounts like the Lite Rail. I can’t find any AR-10 compatible hand guard like that. Yet. The muzzle device and suppressor I chose clearly work together and the suppressor is detachable. When detached, there is a functional compensator/muzzle brake left on the barrel. Put another check in the box. Two, actually, for the Sound suppressor and Muzzle device requirements. The Knight’s Armament bipod features locking pan and cant ability without tools and utilizes a QD attachment method to the weapon’s forearm. I met the Bipod requirement for the CSASS. I chose my own Day optic and Back up sights. The scope I chose is really nice and in line with what the Army ultimately specified in function. The back-up sights are offset 45-degrees. I could purchase the Army specified day optic if I wanted but what I have works really well, even if the parallax knob is misprinted. The Magpul UBR has several QD points and I added another near the end of the lower receiver. The Daniel Defense Lite Rail does not which seems to be common among other contemporaneous quad rail forearms. I added a Daniel Defense QD point that attaches to the rail. If I were to switch rails to another hand guard - modern MLOK, for example - this ability would likely be native. Still my sling attaches via QD points on the rifle and so this Sling attachment requirement was met.

My rifle was inspired by the Army’s CSASS program to replace or supplement the M110 in service. The specifications for the CSASS: Operation: Semi-automatic Caliber: Compatible with 7.62×51mm NATO cartridges Accuracy: Capable of 1.3 minute of angle dispersion or better with match ammunition Size: Overall length shall be reduced using a shorter barrel and/or collapsible buttstock. Maximum length not to exceed 39” without suppressor. Desired minimum length is less than 36” with stock collapsed. Weight: Weight shall be under 9.0 lb for unloaded rifle without optics and accessories Grip: A modular, adjustable pistol grip. Trigger: A non-adjustable match style trigger. Hand guard: A forend that includes a fixed 12 o’ clock rail with configurable 3, 6, and 9 o’ clock rails. Sound suppressor: A muzzle mounted, detachable sound suppressor. Muzzle device: A compensator/muzzle brake compatible with the sound suppressor. Bipod: Tool-less detachment featuring cant and pan/track capability. Day optic: An Army specified variable power day optic and compatible rings. Back up sights: Iron sights offset 45 deg from the DOS. Sling attachment: Flush cup, quick detach sling attachment points. Other: The upgraded M110 must meet the operational and environmental requirements that were fulfilled by the original M110 SASS. It started out as a basic ArmaLite DEF-10A. Empty, it weighed 7 pounds, 11 ounces out of the box. I purchased this rifle with the express intent to modify it. As delivered configuration: Forged 7075-T6 aluminum receivers, flat top upper 16” HB double-lapped chrome-lined chrome moly barrel with (AR-10) carbine gas, 1:11.25” twist AR-10 carbine tube and M4 stock Two-piece round plastic handguards Railed gas block A2 style flash suppressor Single stage trigger Now, it is in the following configuration: Lower: Geissele SSA trigger Norgon ambidextrous magazine release Aero Precision M5 extended magazine button Knight’s Armament Company ambidextrous safety – modified for left-hand use Badger Ordnance AR-10/SR-25 Enhanced Bolt Catch Magpul enhanced trigger guard Magpul UBR (Gen 1) Buttstock w/Impact Weapon Components CSAP and Grovtec limited rotation push button bases Heavy Buffers CAR-10 XH (6.5 oz) buffer and spring Magpul MIAD Grip Upper: ArmaLite bolt carrier hard-chromed by Metaloy Standard “balanced lug” ArmaLite bolt, hand-lapped to chamber and hard-chromed by Metaloy Daniel Defense 7.62 Lite Rail 12.0 SLR Sentry 7 adjustable gas block, set screw KAC ambidextrous charging handle Griffin Armament Flashcomp suppressor mount Griffin Armament Recce7 suppressor Optics: Griffin Armament M2 flip-up front sight, left side offset Griffin Armament M2 flip-up rear sight, left side offset Badger Ordnance 20MOA Unimount Leupold 3-18x44mm Mark 6 w/illuminated TMR

Probably just searching for the the differences between these large frame rifles. Never really had a problem with my AR-10 when I got it or after I modified it. Now I have an AR-10 lower and an unmarked upper that I'm going to do something with but haven't entirely decided what. I have an idea but I might create a thread to solicit ideas and get me out of my box. Long live the real and only AR-10.