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F Frankly... I run about 6 of them. The same effect can be done "easier" with a heavier buffer. With a heavier buffer you can still "tilt the upper" with only the front pin engaged.... the CWS extended / fit into the hole in the back of the BCG. Lengthening it slightly, and pushing into the buffer tube. IMHO, it does work, just like heavier buffers, slowing the cyclic action by milliseconds, which equals a lower chamber pressure extraction. I really think the CWS was "ahead of its time" ... only to be surpassed by more availability of heavier buffers... ( shows how old the design is.. Lol ) ... You just altered the mass of the CWS... options were the body by itself, body and steel insert, and the body and a tungsten weight. Quote... " The CWS™ itself, with no additional weight inserts, weighs 1.54 ounces. The CWS™ with the stainless insert weighs 2.79 ounces (1.25 insert weight) and the CWS™ with the carbide insert weighs 4.05 ounces (2.51 insert weight)." The differences on the brass cases is easily seen by the naked eye... far less ejector smear and gentler extraction... judging by the very different ejected brass. so ... IMHO, again... anyone can achieve the same CWS effect with a heavier buffer weight. http://www.davidtubb.com/catalog/view/theme/davidtubb/pdf/product_information/cwsbroc.pdf All that said.... I would recommend an Adjustable gas block instead of a heavier buffer or CWS... less reciprocating mass.

Another vote for SLR. Well worth the money.

And..... Does the JP Bolt and Firing Pin work as well in the PA10 ( a lot of places say the Barrel is headspaced for the JP Bolt ) http://jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPBC-EB308HP

Ok... while I am happy with the rifles performance, eventually I will want better accuracy. Criterion, Krieger, Bartlein barrels or such..... 18" 1n10 twist or a 20" maybe. What barrel spec's ( DPMS ? ) should I keep an eye out for ? .... and will the PA10 Bolt work with what barrels ? For that matter, I would like a spare BCG or bolt in general... PSA is almost always out of stock, so what other ones are compatible ? I wish PSA wasn't so "secretive" about the various parts and such.... Thanks ahead of time !

Lol... Understood !!

Very Nice !!! But.... you didn't reveal your stress level from the pictured ruler....

This.... at this point I would not buy more Brownells 20rd mags at even $5 a mag.... even if a little filing at the latch helps. I just received mine, unloaded, ....width 1.0645..... snug fit in magwell.....with bolt closed, locks in well , .... does remove freely ( not quite drops free ). Loaded 20rds easily..... loaded width 1.099... tight fit in magwell.... have to VERY FIRMLY smack the bottom to get it to lock in ( even after filling some of the OAL of the leg off of both the front and back of the follower..... and it will not drop free, ( while fully loaded.. period. ) I will try to lightly file the mags latch area, in order to make insertion easier.... but, I think the ultimate problem is the feedlip spread, since unloaded it snapped into place easily. Function was 100% hand cycled.

I am going to suggest you also check the ejector... make sure it isn't binding or hanging up somehow. If you take it apart, polish it ( Quad ought OOOO steel wool ) and check the hole for burrs with an appropriate sized drill bit spun by your fingers. Sorry to hear about your finger.... I have seen how hard the bolt slams home ! BTW, what buffer and recoil spring setup ? Also ... if you could check the firing pin retaining cotter key and see if it bent at all.... I would still like to know why mine did in its OEM configuration.

Just an FYI.... Apparently Magpul makes a different MIAD Gen 1.1 Type 2 hand grip with taller backstraps for the PA10.... I have ordered one up, as well as some of the Brownells $10 AR10 metal mags to try out. "* NOTE: This TYPE 2 Kit uses taller backstraps for optimized fit with certain 7.62x51 receivers such as the Armalite AR-10A/B/T, DPMS LR308, KAC SR25, LaRue OBR, LMT .308 MWS, Palmetto PA10, and S&W M&P10." https://www.magpul.com/products/miad-gen-1-1-grip-kit-type-2

You guys are 100% correct... In my haste, I said Sprinco Orange and meant Red.... and the rifle buffer is indeed a PSA PA10 buffer length.. ( shorter then a AR15 rifle buffer ) In the mods could change the posts to avoid confusion , I would appreciate it.

Survialshop... "Are you using the Armalite AR 10 Buffer system ? " This one from PSA....http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-pa10-a2-rifle-buffer-tube-kit.html "Depends on if it was sighted in with the Tap Ammo or are you saying g it changed after the Gas system adj. . " POI changed after adjusting one click more open. "Doughtful Chamber pressure changed by small adj. to redirected propellant gas through Barrels Gas Port , Chamber pressure has already dropped by the time the Buulet passes the Gas Port . Action may be loosening up from round count , breaking in , more or less . " Agreed about chamber pressure... I should have said less gas being used to yank the case from the chamber while the chambered round is still at high pressure... so the "slower" cyclic action of the BCG is "allowing" the case more time ( milliseconds ) before extracting. "Sounds like FP over travel , could be a Machining issue , out of spec Bolt . The FP retaining pin is only to hold it in place , don't think it should touch it , the FP has stop flange for that purpose & it should stop correctly by the machined surface or flange inside the Bolt . " Interesting... I will have to look into this more. FWIW, No primers appeared pierced, and for the most part looked "normal". ... I will say the Hirt. cases had pretty "deep" firing pin strikes.

OOPS.

1st photo.... M118LR 2nd photo... M118LR 3rd photo... BH 175gr TMK And I just realized I forgot to shoot the Hornady 155gr Steel Match !! Looked at a group ... mislabeled it ... and then saw the mag full of Steel Match !! Arrgh.

Thank you, I am also curious if others have similar issues. I am tempted to order up a complete 20" upper to look at.. ( and for spare parts )

I am with you, I kind of dream of being fast and accurate.... Lol 2-3 slow breathes. ( spelling )

1st photo ..... MEN 2016 Ball 2nd photo .....MEN 2016 ball again 3rd photo.../ Aus. Outback 168gr SMK 4th photo.....Hornady TAP "AR" .... this is the Heavy Buffer group that shifted after "one more click of gas "....first 6 , top right, added click, bottom left 5.... ( Rifles are fussy !! )

1st Photo....FGMM 168gr... Oddly, the rifle prefers , slow methodical shooting with this ammo. 2nd photo ...Reasonably rapid fire... ( bang, back on target, bang ) produces large groups ... not all ammo did this. 3rd photo.... GGG 2013 Ball.... GGG preferred to be rapid fired.... 4th photo.... as well as the XM80 Ball, rapid fire. Maybe shouldn't drink so much coffee and smoke so many cigs, prior to accuracy testing.... Lol

Where to start.... Adjustable gas block, what a difference ! I whole heartedly recommend the SLR adjustable gas block, it truly transformed the abrupt cycling PA10 into a smooth cycling .308 rifle. Ended up using the 5 clicks from fully closed setting, 10 more clicks ( opening the gas flow more ) were available. I used the standard weight AR15 rifle buffer for the accuracy and function testing first 4 clicks failed to cycle 2 of 20 rounds of FGMM .308 168gr, and 5 of 40rds of ZQI, 2 of 20 Horn. TAP "AR" ( ... 5 clicks performed 100% with the FGMM, ZQI ) The Hornady TAP "AR" needed 6 clicks to cycle with the KAK 9.3oz heavy rifle buffer. Interestingly, at one point while firing the Horn. TAP AR round , I adjusted the gas block one additional click wider, and the point of impact for the next 10rds shifted 2 inches down and 2 1/2 inches left ?! .... It is just as possible that I "shifted" as well... but 10rds makes it hard for me to think it was just me. ZQI also performed miserably accuracy wise ... again. At 5 clicks and the rifle fired approx. 300rds trouble free. ( Except the later heavy buffer tested 2 Horn. rds. , with the standard rifle buffer it was fine ) The brass caseheads no longer show smear marks from the ejector, which is directly attributable to the "slower" ( milliseconds slower ) speed of the action. Pressure levels have dropped more prior to extraction because of this... so the case has a moment more to time to lose the chamber gripping PSI. The new replaced by me ..firing pin retaining cotter key is not bent ( I forgot to mention this earlier, the OEM PSA cotter key was getting bent from the violent cycling !?!? , I had a replacement on hand so changed it out ) The rifle now feels like a 7.62x39 AR.... so it is a pleasure to shoot !! I haven't compared group measurements yet ( from the OEM configuration compared to the current configuration ) ... but I did see improvement, for the most part across the board. I will add.... the GEN 3 Magpul PRS's recoil pad.. while "softer" then the old models, needs the sharp edges radiused more..... by rd 300, it was biting into the shoulder more then needed... I will fix that ! Later on I will post the various ammos groups. For now, and on a completely different subject / caliber.... if any of you were lucky enough to get some RUAG 5.56 SS109 HC, it really shoots very well ....9rds 100yds, benched scoped bagged... Next photo ... 10rds ADI M855, same benched.. Last .223 /5.56 group.. 20rds Fed. Tipped Varmint 50gr, rapid fire, same BSB'd

Thanks Guys !! $600 .308 Truck gun at that !!

I did have to grind the whole top of the barrel nut, front to back, that's how much interference there was. Grinding the front only just moved the contact point further down the nut.... clear to the receiver end.

Clearance now...

Basically I did make a flat. And IMHO, I think it was really about the PSA gas block and gas tube .. after installing the SLR block and a higher quality gas tube the clearance is much better. Kind of excited to try the adjustable gas block. I will also try the heavy 9.3oz buffer with the gas block fully open to mimic the OEM configuration... and adjusted lower. I hope the standard rifle buffer works best, ( with the SLR block ) since there is no reason to have a lot of mass banging around So much better, that I have to wonder if the gas tube cant was also involved in the original PSA charging handle binding problem !? I will check later to see if the PSA charging handle and BCG no longer binds up so bad. Next... the bolt catch paddle is banging the upper ... Dremel time for the back side of the paddle !!

Normally I wouldn't dremel but it is a cheap aluminum barrel nut and handguard. This is how close...notice how one end you can see light through... and the other end you cannot. I ended up having to shave the top its full length... whoopee !! I will post photos of the after the fix later. Hand assembled shows much better clearance.

Oops... gas port was centered perfect with the gas block... as near as I can tell minimum gas port size is .0725+. No barrel dimpling, just screwed tight.

Ok... finally got some time to install the SLR adjustable gas block ... easy job, Right ? I bought the dimpling jig, so truthfully the SLR block install should be very easy..... Enter PSA's Freefloat tube barrel nut and the PSA gas tube..... ( pics will follow ) I haven't built a lot of AR's , but, I do know the barrel nut should NOT force the gas tube into the uppers gas tube "hole" top portion. The gas tube is in full contact with the front of the barrel nut... enough so that it has eroded / scrapped away the finish. Ultimately, IMHO it would have wore a hole / weak spot into the gas tube.... it has that much contact. The top portion of the gas tube end, where it engages the gas key, also shows more wear then the bottom with just my eyes. Also, I do know that you want the gas tube to move "somewhat" freely through the uppers hole. Any binding of the gas tube can affect overall / consistent performance and accuracy... ( you don't want ANY binding ) you really want the rifle to consistently return to battery the same way every time. The photo shows the spot where the contact is , the little wear spot... the larger edge wear is from me sliding the rail free. More photos will follow... at this point I am going to dremel down the area that has no contact with the rail and see how well the gas tube fits after that.