MrPaul

I've got some friends that own a gun shop where they carry aero .308 lowers. I'll take my micrometer and measure one. Thanks for all the solutions. Now I just have to get home to my drill press.

Thanks Lane. I took a look at the pdf and it looks pretty straightforward. I'm on vacation and don't have the lower with me but I can see where these might need a little extra milling to make it fit. Hopefully this works.

Damn...y'all think of everything. Thanks. That looks easy enough to hold it in place. I guess I'll just figure out where the pocket goes and trace it on the lower then cut it free hand. 🤞

How does that scope work at 100 yrds? I have buddy that needs some night gear but doesn't want to drop a few k on a pig shoot'n thermal.

Thanks for the input guys. I have a jigs for .308.. I have a hellfire, m1, and another generic one that I picked up at a gun show but none are compatible with this lower. I guess I'll measure the width of the lowers for those jigs an use the one that's closest to this one. This lower has the wings that hang over next to where the trigger group goes. I think I just need to get the measurement on the space between the bolt release slot and the front of the firing group pocket and to make sure I get the pocket centered from side to side. I also need to figure out how to level the lower on the drill press so I can work on it.

Thanks man. I've got the measurement data. Just looking for how not to f**k it up without a jig data.

I got the PA 3-18×50 and I'm impressed for the price. Obviously I haven't shot with it yet. I have an issue with the .80 lower. I bought at a gun show years ago because it was cheap but the guy didn't know what kind it was and he didn't have a jig...so it ended up in the junk box. None of the jigs I have fit it. Anyone have any info on milling without a jig? All I've found online seems to require a CNC machine and machining knowledge. I've always used a drill press and have no machining skills or knowledge.

That's a really nice rifle. I wonder if the back pressure from shooting with the suppressor had anything to do with the crack on your rear takedown pin hole. I run a polymer 80 lower on 1 of my guns that has few thousand rounds through it and haven't had any cracks. The stripping on the buffer tube threads was an issue on mine so I just figured the buffer tube was permanently attached once I got it back on straight.

I started this dmr last week on the cheap. I went to the gun store and they have a used bargain barrel of parts. I found the ergo stock for $20, the hogue grip for $5 and the odin rail with no barrel nut or other hardware for $25. (Amazing how a few parts can bring on the build. I went to my regular spot to buy the rest of the parts and they gave me the barrel nut and hardware for free. The bill for the rest of the parts: aero upper and bcg, geissle 2 stage, faxon 20" fluted 5r barrel were about $800, and I had an .80 lower and all the spare odds and ends in my junk box. All in less the optic...I'm at less than $900 for a nice rifle. I ordered a primary arms 3-18x50 .308 acss HUD dmr scope today. I still need to mil the lower and hopefully it will be a nice rifle.

There's lots of new light weight parts that have come out. No need to call Dr. Kevorkian on this thread just yet.

Oddly enough. I got the barrel back from odin and they said the chamber was in spec and the problem must be with the bolt.... So they sent the barrel back to the shop with another bolt. The shop I bought it from swapped out the bolt and and we shot it into the barrel in the back. It works fine. Hopefully I can get it out to the range after hunting season and see how she shoots.

Sveeet

I stand corrected.

You may have a buffer tube issue. Are you useing a commercial or mil spec buffer tube. I think the inner diameter is smaller on one of them. No expert on the subject here but that's the one thing I can think of that would cause a bolt carrier to get stuck half way back. Another is the little nub on top of the charging handle tip where it meets your gas key. Is that rubbing on the inside top of your upper receiver when you pull it back?

Probably tighten up your moa as you break the barrel in.