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MrPaul

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  1. Sveeet
  2. I stand corrected.
  3. You may have a buffer tube issue. Are you useing a commercial or mil spec buffer tube. I think the inner diameter is smaller on one of them. No expert on the subject here but that's the one thing I can think of that would cause a bolt carrier to get stuck half way back. Another is the little nub on top of the charging handle tip where it meets your gas key. Is that rubbing on the inside top of your upper receiver when you pull it back?
  4. Probably tighten up your moa as you break the barrel in.
  5. So did it shoot straight? Range report?
  6. There are a lot of crappy forged lowers that work but are a tad out of spec that you can get for 99 bux. Usually out if spec at the pivot pin which can be fixed with a file if they are too tight or some jb weld and a file if they are too loose. Hellfire armory makes some really nice billet lowers that don't cost much more. D5 tactical also has a nice looking one for about 150. If you want to go the $99 route sometimes you can find the polymer lower warrhogg on sale. If you fug up the safety detent hole when you're milling it out the warrhogg...fix it with jb weld and re-drill the detent hole. Hope this rambling spew of info helps.
  7. Texas bro...Texas. I don't always drink brandy, but when I do..... I always become loquasiously inappropriate.
  8. I am more loquacious when given the correct amount of brandy.
  9. Yup....old charging handles are banished to the spare parts box. Holding a tiny spring in place while lining up tiny holes and pounding a tiny pin into that tiny hole without the spring popping out is no fun.
  10. Holy smokes.... I smell a new Chuck Norris!
  11. Rifle length buffer tube needs a rifle length buffer and buffer spring and carbine tubes use a carbine spring and buffer. Gas tube length doesn't affect anything but i would use an adjustable gas block to make sure you don't end up over gassed.
  12. Yup. Things ain't right with that extension. Your method is going to give you a much more accurate look at things than rolling it on a glass table top.
  13. Take the barrel off, roll it on a flat surface. If there is wobble in the middle. The barrel is bent. If there is no wobble roll it with the extension hanging off the edge of your flat surface while looking up the chamber. If the chamber appears to wobble your extension is not on right. If this doesn't show any wobble...its an installation issue and not the barrel. In My experience its always been something with the installation and not the barrel. I've used your straight edge method before but its not conclusive because the extension nub is covered by the barrel nut and you have to see that the nub and the gas hole don't line up on the square to see that the barrel is bent. Just my opinion and methods...hope it helps if not I'm sure faxon will help you.
  14. I've had to do it 5 or 6 times. It may not fix your problem but its worth a try. I've never monkied with faxon barrels so I don't know the suggested torque specs. Maybe its over torqued. All I can say is I've had the same issue on several occasions and it's a trulley frustrating experience but I've always been able to fix it that way. I would think its pretty hard for a barrel that's not straight to make it past even the most elementary q.c. checks.
  15. That has happened to me on a couple of barrels. I had to loosen and re torque the barrel nut a few times to get them to sit right. Maybe that will help straighten it up.