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Everything posted by SgtDog0311

  1. Interesting Magwa. I posed something like this question elswhere: Over in the Service Rifle forum I followed some instructions to set up my sizing die for my M1A. It involved removing the extractor paw from the bolt and lowering till the bolt rotated closed on a piece of brass I’d sized after adjusting the sizing die down till the bolt lugs just barely latched freely closed with the latest adjustment. The aim was to achieve minimum headspace with the die setting. So, when you say you bump 0.002 then, I’d guess using the above method you’d recommend a 0.002 allowance from whatever reading I took from a sized peice of brass that just allowed the bolt to rotate as I eased it down on the sized case. My question was if what worked for an M1A would it be adequate for an AR style gas system? Or if perhaps I should allow for a dirtier gas system for reliability sake. At any rate, I didn’t do this with my first test batch. I just went with a datum GO gauge. Odd thing was my RCBS sizer wouldn’t take case diameters all the way back down to new case dimensions, even bottoming out on the shell holder. Cases lacked almost a rim thickness of fully chambering in a case gauge. But they chamber fine in the rifle. If I used a small base die they fit both. On your mandrel comment, I tried this NOE, just to satisfy my curiosity. Worked fine. No stretch showed up with or without neck lube.
  2. I did score some 165gr SGK. Already had some 168 SMK. I’ll get a chance to test some loads shortly. I have the first 100 of my LC processing done. Trimming with a Wilson will talk you into some automation.
  3. 68 shooters would be a good turnout in the venue I was shooting. Unless maybe a Regional match. This looks to be a whole different kind of fun.
  4. Well an answer wasn’t hard to find for trimming. ‘Trim it all’ is gonna be brutal with the Wilson. Always loved it, but too much of a good thing is possible. Retested the swager and it won’t be so bad. Assume you guys uniform primer pockets so I added that. I can see the ‘volume’ nature of the semi-auto changes $$ equations for automation. jtallen’s words reverberate!
  5. I’m done sizing 850 cases (600 LC & 250 Commercial). The Lee factory crimp die is more of a collet die, right. So how much effort is recommended to bring all of them to the same case length? If they need to be chamfered and bevelled then I’m already handling once, but would there be a range within which you’d consider it unnecessary? Looks like mine vary anywhere from 2.004 to 2.015. Say maybe trim everything over 2.010 and not worry about those under??
  6. Copy that! the Lee Factory Crimp arrived Friday I think it was. I’m paying attention, even when on detour. Do wish my search capability better. I know about every question has dozens of predecessors.
  7. Well that works like a champ. No difference in shoulder/datum measurements with or without lube between standard die/expander vs a custom NOE expander. But I don’t think it saves time by avoiding a second tumbling since you are either tumbling or wiping each case on the outside with a cloth. Probably a wash on time. Only advantage would be if you wanted a specific neck tension that a custom sized expander would provide. Satisfied my curiosity anyway!
  8. Package from NOE arrived today so I think I’ll give it a try. Already had the Lee die so experimenting only cost $10. Nothin like what you determine for yourself!
  9. dpete, are the 32 Special same headstamp or assorted? if same headstamp what say you to a two-for-one swap? I’ve got in .308: RP (38), BHA Match (19), FC (45), CBC (4)
  10. Ok, another one. Could be stupid but I have to ask. I don’t like the button expanders for a couple reasons. Was thinking the straight-wall expander, even if adding a step would eliminate two (lubing the neck and maybe even tumbling afterwards). They go in easy and hardly put any stretching tug at all coming out. Bonehead idea or does it have possibility? And if it has possibility, for neck tension on a .308, you think .004 neck tension (.304) diameter would be the tension I’d want. Wouldn’t think More but perhaps Less??
  11. Right jtallen, especially about the 0s! And I’m winding down not up. Spending more time with my grandson’s High School wrestling than I am in the gun room. Another question that indicates my overthinking. Over in the Service Rifle forum I followed some instructions to set up my sizing die for my M1A. It involved removing the extractor paw from the bolt and slowly adjusting a sizer die down till the bolt lugs latched freely closed on a case from the latest adjustment. Aim I guess was to achieve minimum headspace with the die setting. I’m thinking with the AR, that would be programming in potential failure as fouling increases. (Perhaps with the M1A too. I didn’t question the technique offered by one of the seasoned gurus). Anyway, I’m thinking getting as close to the “GO” on this gauge as my die allows is the thing to do here. You fellas agree?
  12. Thank You again. Evidently I appreciated the logic of preserving the brass in the primer pocket a decade ago. Just found the RCBS swaging die. My recollection was it was slow. I’ll reacquaint myself. If I don’t like it I reckon I’ll spend $16 to experiment.
  13. Any thoughts for most efficient way to remove crimps. The RCBS attachments for the Prep Center like it’d be be a better approach for 4-500 cases. Am I right? https://palmettostatearmory.com/rcbs-tm-military-crimp-remover-2-la-90387.html
  14. Btw, thanks! I think you covered it. Maybe this - on the Lee die, is it called anything besides a “crimp die”? Roll crimp, taper crimp?
  15. That’s perfect dpete. I just figured I should review something that answered a few questions. I have: RCBS dies (small base and standard), wet tumblers, Case Prep station for for chamfer & beveling, Charge Master or Harrells (but thats for powder), Wilson for trimming. I use a taper crimp die but see I don’t have a Lee product you guys seem to favor. Don’t have a Wilson case gauge but do have a Whidden Gunworks gauge. Not so different than my levers and Ballards then. I usually deprime with Universal deprimer and hand prime. But I get exact neck tension with custom straight-walled expanders rather than use the deprimer spindle from the resizing die. Easier on necks but this is a different world. Don’t repeat the tumble though. Most of my questions were about the need for champher/bevel and the sequence for trimming. And lubing necks… I guess that drives the need for the second tumble in your media?? Right?
  16. Seeking help after a lot of searches. Been mostly prepping straight-wall brass for other venues/rifles the last 14 yrs. Looking for a good thread here on brass prep for .308. Appreciate any links.
  17. Enjoyed the thread. Drilled mine a couple weeks ago after being pointed to a 98Z5V thread by dpete. I was sceeerd but turned out to be a piece of cake. Used a brass rod for backer. Just in case.
  18. Duh! I think I answered my own question. The extractor isn’t gonna just slip over the rim so I wasn’t proving anything by easing the bolt down on a sized case. Then, even though my sized brass didn’t set the datum all the way back to “Go” once in the Whiddon gauge, that didn’t mean I didn’t still have several thousands before it read “No Go” (0.007) to be exact. https://youtu.be/p3d_3yk6EFc
  19. Thnx. Does the Redding or some other die do a better job setting the shoulder back? Not sure if I was clear but the RCBS Small Base barely got to “Go” on the gauge. (confirmed by chamber). and the XL didn’t even set it back enough to chamber. That was with the die bottomed out on the case holder.
  20. OK. Sized two cases with two dies. Left: RCBS 308Win XL SB 10 (barely returned setback to “GO”)Right: RCBS 308 XL….10(Started at +.008; bumped shoulder back to +.004)So still too long per Whiddon gauge. Testing in chamber the bolt would need help closing. When I let it go home it resized so as gauge made it to “GO”. Both Sizers turned down with case holder firmly contacting bottom of die. Thoughts on the dies or methods??
  21. Bear with me, I have not visited this for more than a decade when I was working for a short while with my M1A. ~~~~I trim all my calibers with a Wilson but don’t have the gauge pictured. I do find I bought a Whidden Gunworks Shoulder Bump Gauge for .308. Back when ~ I can’t recall.So I just checked some of my sized and primed Win brass I’d previously shot in the M1A. Length is 2.008 and shoulder is -.002 on the Whidden gauge. I’d guess that is good to go notwithstanding my M1A is a 7.62 chamber.Next up, somewhere along the line I sized some LC and trimmed, even primed it. Length = 2.010 but shoulder is +.006 or .007. So, I didn’t bump that shoulder back enough it looks like. Correct?? I’ll have to do some forensics on how I set up that die.Lastly, I just sampled some of the fired LC I hadn’t done anything with but wet-tumble. Lengths were from 2.008 to 2.016. Most are between those extremes. Shoulders were +.009 from “GO” on the Whiddon gauge. I’m guessing those could be Machine Gun runs? Think I’ll go stick one of those LC in the press and see what the shoulder reads with the ram bottomed-out against the sizing die. I’ll report back.
  22. I’ll pay close attention to length. Thnx! Are small based dies necessary or at least advisable?
  23. Thanks 98Z5V. I’ll watch for the SGK. Looks like I can get some from Midway for workup. Some years back I was given a box of once fired brass. After sorting I have 200 Win cases, 350 LC 11, and a grab bag of 300 or so LC of various year production. Thought I might dedicate the LC to the M1A (not sure about LC brass consistency across years-of-production), then add to the commercial for the AR. Have not looked at brass availability or prices yet.
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