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    Front-Range Colorado
  • Interests
    Great outdoors, landscape/nature photography, exercising my 2nd Amendment rights!

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308USK's Achievements

  1. None of my business, but why are you shooting steel cased ammo? (just a personal curiosity; every type of steel cased ammo has been nothing short of $h!t for M4/LR308 for me). Now, for a thought to help (maybe): Do you have a digital caliper? If so: 1) Measure the case width of the steel ammo, record the measurement 2) Measure the head width of the steel ammo, record the measurement 3) Measure the case width of the brass ammo, record the measurement 4) Measure the head width of the head ammo, record the measurement With the information above, you might be able to ascertain why the steel ammo is working properly and the brass ammo IS NOT. Best of luck.
  2. Best of luck! I had issues after the build of my LR308; had to drill the gas port to fix...but in the process, I removed my JP SCS and got a stock Armalite spring and 5.3oz buffer to ensure 'standard' parts blah blah blah. Once I got the gas side squared away (drilled out, open up gas block wide open, confirmed proper cycling, adjust gas block down for proper timing, then re-install the JP SCS and verify cycling is still proper (it was) and voila). Will keep the stock spring & buffer for any other LR308/AR10 builds I do.
  3. Standard spring with 5.3oz buffer, open gas block WIDE OPEN to start, then dial in after issue is resolved.
  4. If you are running an adjustable gas block, remember to open it up WIDE OPEN for the first round of shooting. Also remember to run the gun wet...so as to allow proper seating/wearing in. :) Aero Atlas R-One or S-One are high-profile, if that helps.
  5. Great Guns? Have not heard of that range; just looked that up. It's a ways north, but is also NOT out in "boonieville USA" like Pawnee (lol) and is about 45 minutes less driving (one-way) for me. That range looks like it could well be a good place to spend some time; is it very busy? Thanks for the heads up @FOGeologist!!!
  6. I zero for 200yds, as it is easier to do the math for further out (for me). For the .308 round, most ballistics charts I have looked at show the .308 round traveling flat to out 50yds, then a slight rise, then back across zero at 200yds as the bullet drop starts for real. So, for your question, I'd go with whatever scope zeroing process you have used in the past, as the muscle memory will be better overall. You can adjust better with what is familiar, rather than trying to learn a new distance for zeroing / problem identification, etc. I had intentions to go out to Pawnee Sportsman's Center this summer to use their long-distance range, to really dial in my rifle for distance...alas, life happened in a myriad of ways. (sad panda)
  7. Please give details on what components you have used, so that the brainiacs here can provide quality and accurate suggestions / advice.
  8. Yeah...precisely. I've got a lot of absolutely USELESS data like that in the various nooks & crannies in my noggin. Purging efforts have been fruitless.
  9. Could be worse; could be phone numbers AND addresses spanning back to the mid-to-late 60's (my brain really hurts! )
  10. Have you measured your gas port diameter with a digital caliper? If it is between .090 and .095 (based on what @98Z5V stated for my build, which is quite similar), then you're okay. IF NOT, then drill baby drill! (FWIW: My gas port diameter, measured with digital caliper, was .0835 from factory; rifle would not cycle normally. After much adoo, I drilled it out to .0945 and the rifle runs flawlessly!!!)
  11. Glad your rifle is up n runnin too! I used a toothpick to measure the distance from top of barrel outside to bottom inside of barrel, then split the distance in half and taped the drill bit at that distance (enough tape to prevent the bit from going in any deeper). Worked like a charm. :P
  12. Range Update (08/07/2022): Took the rifle to the range today (son wanted to go shoot his custom M4). Here's the details... 147gr --> Ejection at 3:20 150gr --> Ejection at 3:20 180gr --> Ejection at 3:30 On a whim, I decided to swap back to my JP Rifles SCS (buffer weight 5.6oz (2 steel, 1 tungsten) measured on digital scale). Shot all three round grains again; same ejection position. All in all, I am very content with how my rifle is working now. Again, thanks to ALL for the support, guidance, advice and banter. :)
  13. After looking at the video, I realized two things: 1) bipod was not perpendicular to the rifle and 2) as you stated, I was not pre-loading the bipod. Sloppy to say the least, but my main focus was really the cycling of the rifle. I will, however, incorporate that into my pre-shot routine, so that muscle-memory comes into play in short order! (love even more sage advice! :P)
  14. Yes it does (and you gotta be bored to watch that! LMAO); now I can fine-tune, get the scope sighted in for 200 yds and enjoy the new tool. This build as been an incredible learning experience, even with all of the stupid $hit that comes with first builds!
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