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dpete

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    N. Wisconsin

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  1. I think I found my own answer. From the 1911 forum: warp2diesel said: Check is see if your disconnector is stuck down, it needs to be up all the way for the hammer to drop. A rough finish on the center leaf of the sear spring where it pushes up the disconnector can make the disconnector hang up too. Sear springs I have gotten from Klonimus or Wilson Combat are nice and smooth and don't have the issue. Some no name cheapies off eBay have required some stoning to clean up. This seems to have been the problem. The sear spring had enough of a burr on the edge facing the disconnector that I could feel it with a fingernail. A few gentle file strokes got rid of the burr and all is working as it should now. The trigger falls with the safety off, it doesn't fall with the safety on and nothing is binding anywhere. This was my first foray into a disassembly beyond a field strip and I want to say thanks for the suggestion!
  2. My last range trip I had an issue resurface that I don't like. In the middle of firing through a magazine the hammer refused to drop. After clearing the weapon and re-racking the slide I watched very closely as I slowly pulled the trigger. I could see the hammer twitch but it does not fall. Its basically locked in a cocked position. This situation happened once before and the gunsmith that looked into it gave the pistol a thorough cleaning and the hammer locking went away for about 200 rounds. Now its back! The pistol is a Taurus PT 1911 (I know, I know) but I would at least like it to be reliable if possible. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated to remedy this.
  3. All of what I list are mixed headstamps unless specified. The 32 Win Specials are sold pending funds, sorry.
  4. All 2 of them, you got 'em. I may not see another one for a couple years, lol.
  5. I use the reamer method too, except I chuck mine into a small table top drill press and then lay the press down on my bench. Left hand picks up a case from the bucket, gets it facing the right way, passes it to glove wearing (for better grip) right hand that pushes the primer pocket into the constantly spinning reamer. A case might take 10 seconds to do but its still a royal pain in the azz and I'm glad it only has to be done once.
  6. dpete

    Morning

    I have to get up there sometime yet this summer or fall with my son. I can run planer boards out of my boat right now and have a small manual downrigger coming this week that I'm going to use for Lakers in Trout Lake and deep Muskies. Would love to get into some trout and salmon.
  7. Thanks Al. Those were part of my personal stash that I liquidated. Since Covid hit almost everything I can get my hands on goes to a buddy of mine with a manufacturing license. Although some does manage to go to AZ to a simian we all know.
  8. Updated 8/8/22 Rifle Calibers @ $ .35 each Caliber # of pieces 22-250 20 224 Valkyrie 2 25-35 Win 7 25-06 44 280 22 300 WSM 50 300 WSM (nickel) 26 300 Win Mag 4 300 Wthrby Mag 18 300 Savage 5 308 Win Match (Hornady) 4 spoken for 308 Win (LC headstamp) 89 spoken for 32 Win Spl 50 35 Rem 44 45-70 2 spoken for 450 Bushmaster 46 450 Marlin 4 458 Socom 1 6.5 Creedmoor 10 6.5X55 7 6.5 PRC 4 6.5 Grendel (FC hs) 23 6.8 SPC 18 7-30 Waters 27 7mm-08 5 7mm Mauser 11 7.62X54R 30 7.7 Jap 13 Rifle Calibers @ $ .15 each Caliber # of pieces 30 Carbine 47 300 BLK 55 Pistol Calibers @ $ .15 each Caliber # of pieces 10 mm (Large Primer) 825 10 mm (small primer) 232 357 Sig 57 38 Super 120 38 super (nickel) 32 44Mag 156 44 Mag (nickel) 21 44 S&W Special 8 45 Colt 3 50 AE 6 As usual I'm willing to hold on to calibers you want until the end of the season.
  9. For lubing necks I'll stand the cases up in a loading block and give them a couple passes of Hornady spray case lube. Size, trim, chamfer/debur, done. My trimming setup does all 3 at once. It chamfers the inside, deburs the outside and trims the case neck at the same time. If a case doesn't need trimming I'll still give it a chamfer on the inside of the neck to help ease the bullet in. My second tumble in the wet tumbler is only to remove the sizing lube which is water soluble. Tumbling them in the lizard bedding and Nu-finish is simply to shine them up. It does have an added side benefit I've discovered in that it also helps prevent or delay the brass getting dark due to age and sitting in storage waiting to get loaded
  10. Lee factory crimp die. https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-308-Factory-Crimp/dp/B000NOSHQW
  11. My brass preparation for everything. Punch out primers using a Lee universal depriming die. Wet tumble in a FART https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Separator-Polishing-Reloading/dp/B00HTN4R6O using hot water, Dawn dish soap, and a teaspoon of citric acid powder (available at organic food places, its the main ingredient in brass polish) with the stainless steel pins for about an hour. Pour out black water and rinse brass until clean. Dry the brass in a food dehydrator. A garage sale find. Lube cases and resize. Remove lube. Mine is water soluble (Lee case lube mixed 10:1 with water https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-90006-Case-Sizing/dp/B0013Z7S6K ) then its back into the FART with just hot water and Dawn. Dry cases again. Check size in case gauge. Trim, chamfer and debur as necessary. Remove primer pocket crimps on LC or other military crimped brass. Finished brass then goes into a vibratory tumbler with ground walnut lizard bedding and a capful of Nu-finish car polish. Cases come out looking brand new. https://www.amazon.com/Zilla-Reptile-Terrarium-Bedding-Substrate/dp/B000OQRGF2/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=lizard+bedding&qid=1659977828&sr=8-7 One bag will last you forever.
  12. What do you use right now?
  13. Yup, thats how I was. Age will get ya! I used readers for almost 10 years and then it was straight into trifocals.
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