DustBuster

I bought an extra one the day Miss Diane FlippelStein spread her nonsense to our nations capital... BeltFed you have enough there for 20 democratic families, volunteerally sawing each one in half to keepem 10 rounders...

Haha, Thanks for both of your expert wisdom. Guess a steel bolt slamming into a steel barrel extension, even if a brass was not in there, would be just fine... I just got my gas block dimpled in one spot, and it took fricken forever to get a cobalt bit started. It reinforced what you just said 98Z5V that Steel is strong poop! I will be letting the charge handle fly ! Hope I don’t accidentally get my finger in there ever. Damn I shoulda been a gunsmith, or a metal machinist, this precise work on the bench is super rewarding. I’m a carpenter and in the past I’ve installed door closures, using a spring loaded center punch devise to dimple steel doors(much softer than barrel I bet). I could not find that gizmo so I used a screw tip and that barely worked. So I spent an hour or more spinning my drill bit and slipping off,,, finally I got a stable spin and ever so slowly tore through that nitrided surface. I don’t have a dremel either. It is done... Compensator crushed, Extralong Tube in...El Cheapo handgaurd on...I’m so close I can almost Imagine this thingamagigger working. I still need to practice with my 29 lb wooden Trigger tester though. Half breath...exhale slowly.... get pipe clamp out to squeeze....

Hello 308 crew. So, I travelled up to my Dads and reloaded a bunch of brass. I learned first hand how miserable trimming brass is. So I agreed with my pops and I only trimmed brass that was over the Sammi max of 2.015. My bullet brass will vary a bit in neck length but it’ll be good enough for me. It’s all been full length resized and I even crimped the bullets with the Lee Factory Crimp die. when I was up there, Tested my carbine length spring and Heavy 5.2 KaK buffer and Bolt on some Dummy rounds, into the chamber. Since these Dummys were without Powder Mass, I let the charging go from about 1/2 way closed and the bullet fed fine but the bolt stopped short of closing. No matter what bullet dummy or real, I nearly have to let go of the charging handle from way back to get the bolt to seat the bullet and to close. There is not much grease or oil in the lug region. Are all the bolts so tight on lug tolerance that the bolt needs to have nearly full momentum to lock in? I hope this couldn’t be a too tight of headspace issue. What U Think??

My wooden Trigger jig really was a dual purpose thing... less for testing trigger and more for testing router. i milled the perfect shape and then on afterthought I wanted to see if my hammer would fit with the dimensions I had. It did, but I found out that 1/32 or 1/64 even to shallow of a depth Job was not good at all. I increased depth below the back of trigger and found that it worked better. I will not make that same mistake with Aluminum. What worries me is with the “mil-spec” plans I found... the FC pocket seems to be barely over 1/32”(.033”) away from the mag release bolt channel. I need to see if all of these close specs work with the receiver I have. i already pre drilled barely enough to mark my hammer/trigger locations, but I will be extra careful those hammer and trigger spots do not force my FC pocket to far forward, burning through into the mag release zone... Maybe there is allowance to shift the Pocket and Hammer and Trigger back farther away from mag or there is not.... My logical thought is that if there is room to go back...with the safety staying put, then the trigger could possibly be able to be squeezed more before hitting the flat spot underneath safety. Rise stays same but run gets shorter, pitch increases therefore: I’m just brainstorming just now... People have told me to not reinvent the wheel, but to me there is a tad less satisfaction. Maybe I’ll make a Plexiglass Trigger Tester next and put Stike Industries outta business.. yeah right... Or a Clear Lr-308, with clear gas tube injecting color into the gun gas... Don’t know if our eyes could see it moving so fast.

Fancy smancy! I wish I had one of those I suppose. My archaic wooden contraption is makeshift for sure. I see that with your larue trigger jig one can see in there pretty good... that beats mine by a long shot. Without my safety in mine, my disconnector hook engages way too much. I went with JP trigger spec locations that jived with a print I found somewhere, so I’m fairly confident the holes are letting my sear engage sufficiently. I took the cocked wooden trigger jig and bashed it hard back and forth on a table,,,, nothing let it slip. You guys are the pros... I’m just a pre-schooler when it comes to this stuff. I hope my larue trig fits as nice as this milsoec one did! CU Armed Eye Doctor

I am currently building a DPMS 308, and for months have been agonizing over how the heck I’m gonna finish my lower. Jigs are too dang expensive. I did buy a top FC Pocket Plate, but I sure as heck can’t get a 5D these days, plus who wants to spend so much for one or two uses. I fashioned a router surface with the plate underneath. I I sawed and carved a mag block/lower holder out of wood, and was about to proceed with making sides to tie it all together, but I wanted to test out my router on a practice piece before proceeding. So I used my end mill on a larger hunk of wood... It worked great. I then sawed the block of wood to the same width and height of the lower. I then thought of something more I could do; practice the pin hole locations. I drilled them and started to assemble the trigger I have. To my dismay the grain of the wood caught my bits and altered the precision. I assembled the trigger and it didn’t work. I honed some out of the bottom because I was about a 32nd not deep enough. The sear caught once, but my wiggly pins in the now supper sloppy crushed holes had everything failing. Then finally I slopped some plywood to the sides, re drilled very carefully, and reassembled with my make shift 16 penny sinker pins. My practice block of Doug Fir and plywood now works perfectly as a trigger tester. I just need to craft a safety that is wider to test that function. If aluminum and polymer becomes scarce, I might find some good Walnut for a 6.5 Treedmore some day 🌲

After seeing people pop the hammer and trigger pins in and out...I wonder if they get loose after a while. There are detents on them but I suppose friction and spring shear force are all that keep them from wiggling out. Thanks to Doc I found out about these awesome Larues, but alas I am on backorder now too and will have to wait maybe a long time to see. Roger on no poundage tuning on the triggers( except maybe for swapping out different springs) and also a Roger on some having experience with filing and professional ability to fine tune trigger creep. I am still working to make a jig for use with my new dewalt router. As of yet I have no home for any kind of trigger. I guess I have plenty of time before I need to get impatient on a little Tuna Can with a MBT in it.

I read that somewhere...Oh well... guess I can install the plain Jane one I have an then and see how she behaves, then pop in the Good one after the long wait and then marvel at the improvement. I had a gunsmith reduce the LBs on my bolt action 30-06 a long time ago, I wonder if these Larues and even the plain Jane milspec trigger can be adjusted. I have not looked very closely at the one I have.

I’m sure I’ll be happy with it, so you’ll maybe get your spare anyway from 98z I’m guessing. I just ordered the Larue... way cheaper than Gisselle’s for example.

They seem cheap enough... I might as well try one. If for some reason I dislike it after testing , I’ll sell it back to you if you want Doc. Thanks for tip

Yes that picture is of the parts kit I already bought. I assume the trigger in it is a one stage but I have no idea of how it would feel... stiff I suppose. I will look up the LaRue. I have another lower that someday I could put the parts kit trigg in or the better one...

I’m getting close to installing a trigger and lower parts into my DPMS Lr-308. In the attached photo, is a trigger and hammer of which I do not know what type it is and need to learn. Single stage, double stage, POC, or good enuff. Is it worth it for me to go ahead and use this trigger or should I buy some other type of trigger parts to save myself having to do it later. Or some kind of Drop in unit instead? Any ideas?

Yep, come here all who want to leave the gun grabbin liberals from the cities! I was born in AK, kinda grew up in Seattle, and graduated HS in MT. Found my way here. Jackson is a joke, I definitely wouldn’t want to be over there... our 308s might raise a few uppity eyebrows there.. but most of the state is my kind of place. Hi to you too, Beantown...de w7dgr. Thanks for the welcomes, 308ar Crew. Tonight I will ask your thoughts on a different topic..

Hi All... I have posted a few topics now, asking for advice...I really want to pick your brains again but I have never formally introduced myself. Im a carpenter who lives in a small town in Wyoming... I’m over 40 but can’t quite believe it. I live with my gal friend. She gets Bark Box packages in the mail lately and I’ve been getting misc. gun parts. I’m also a ham radio operator and love to work come CW and occasionally RTTY on the Low Bands. I hunt sometimes and have really been enjoying the learning of the LR-308 and also of the technicals of reloading. Good to have found this site on searches and to ask and receive info and opinions from what I gather are a solid group ranging from people like me on up to extremely experienced pros. Take care, 73 as they say in Amateur radio

I lucked out... my reloader Dad has all of those Factory Crimpers. He originally asked me about crimping and I didn’t know if they had to be.... but sounds like they should be. The only thing I have done to about 125 brass is to knock out the Crimped primers of the LCity and NATO stuff. Either I’ll be Swaugin or a chamferin with a 5/8 bit. Lucky he had a small stockpile of primers cause remaking primers looks to be a big pain in the butt

Okay dPete, I wont press this topic farther, I agree with you on that. COL Concluded As soon as I get my dummy round I will be testing the chamber fit with my barrel, maybe renting or buying a go/no go farther along, and will start a new thread and tell you all what is happening. The space between my Head/Skull is slowly shrinking

Roger on max COL limited by mag length. I wonder if I need to need the brass necks longer to ensure good bullet seated if the cannelure is a strong 1/16th above the neck, as the dummy round labeled FC is. That COL is close to the max for my magazine. Even if I let the necks be longer by .01 reaching the SAAMI max of 2.015, The Hornady cannelure would still be sticking out proud by .072”. But it would stick out more by .01” if I trim necks to 2.005. And thanks for that Advisory, Shooter Rex, I know about the headspace shoulder point, although I’ve never checked headspace before. I guess I was kind of mixing together two different topics into one thread which could be Dangerous for Super Newbies.

This work on empty brass I sent to my reloader occurred over the last two days. He measured the brass before resizing and after... and wrote the difference in the third column. Since he told me trimming was wearysome and boring on his old fingers, I selected the ones closest to 2.005 and he trimmed them down for me. He seated two bullets to the Cannulure...two near to the Hornady max COL and then I insisted he try and make me two to the same COL of the pmc Live rounds I have, which are 2.792. He got one exact and one close. He likes to make very detailed notes. I’m learning a bit through this process too. It’s surprised me that his hornady book said max COL for that bullet was 2.777, and the pmc live ammo I have is so much longer, simulated by bullet 308FC in the picture. Different projectile even though close resemblance= different COL apparently

Thanks, you are right. My English is poor on emails and threads, but a picture is worth a Thousanth, or two. Here are 6 test Dummies I had my reloader make me up for my experimentation on feeding and maybe for go or no go practice.

I guess it would be a relatively cheap way to eliminate a jaw or eyeball flying away at a good ejection 3-4 o’clock direction 🙂. Before I spend the 50 bucks for at least one of the gauges I might try a trick I read about somewhere... glue a little rod to the dummy bullet and manipulate it through the bore, seeing how much back and forth there is with the bolt closed... maybe the 2 or 3 thousandths recommended. Paper thicknesses on the bullet or on a go gauge... I might have the details wrong but I’d research and test much more before feeling confident. Point taken however, 50 dollars for a gauge is 3% of 1500, not too bad for good assurance.

Roger (10-4) on shitty barrels... I know there are case length gauges and stuff... Go NoGo gauges for head space... So many variables. Since I’m a cheap bugger, after blowing more than 1500 I’m sure on cheap ass gun parts(except my barrel, I think..Faxon), I might try to avoid buying a go or no go gauge. Use the resized brass with some paper on the bolt face to check that variable..headspace. And since you’ve told me about the magazine length most likely being well short of the Lands, I will feel better about not having the bullets blowing up or getting stuck. Maybe just getting stuck is the major worry for that. If the neck was too long on brass that is what might be catastrophic. I am gonna watch that video now... Eventually I’ll be trying to learn about other possible bullet types and sizes. This gun could help me get a speed goat some day. That bullet would most likely be a PSP and will probably show altogether different behavior on the feed ramps...

Ok, great info you guys... Dpete, yes I was kindof knowing the answer would be that. Every gun and barrel will probably have the best COL for it based on the bullet and charge and playing a tad with setback some from the lands. I just read that in the Lyman manual. 98z5v, I also have two boxes of those same plinking bullets..and with those loaded into a dummy brass at the cannelure, they are 2.710 ( .082) shorter than the pmc factory ammo I bought, with an unknown 147gr FMJ. I can experiment with those Cannulure set with 2.005 brass. Im also having the reloader make me a few more dummies with the Hornandy bullets seated to the same COL as the new PMC, just to simulate the longer bullets as I configure my as of yet non-working gun. They look funny and are beyond the max COL for Hornady...so I won’t ever load the live ones up that way. I just want to see if the PMCs will load up ok on the first round. Thanks for info I will look at that other thread and video! DummyDust

Just Curious... I bought a bunch of PMC 147 gr 308 loads, and they measure 2.792 COL. I’m also having someone reload me a bunch of rounds... Brass trimmed to 2.005, Does anybody else here reload and have a favorite COL for best cycling...and also, Does anybody bother with Crimping the bullets? Im a rookie in both building the DPMS and with reloading knowledge Dust

I’m just talking tough, wish it will be so. When I first hunted open sights with my 30-06 model 70, when I was younger, I tried harder when sighting in. I think if I remember right, I could do that kind of group. I can’t even shoot that good now with a 3-9 scope on that -06. I will be happy with 5” open sight groups from that handgaurd and open sights from Mentium”USA”. I retract my words from before. Since saying that, I just read another thread here about Natural point of aim.. I would like to think I’m a naturally gifted shooter, but I am not. Half the time I shoot I do not squeeze the trigger, I’m moving and when it feels right I spontaneously jerk that trigger. I need to take it seriously like a NRA youth trained shooter. In need to train. I was only jesting.... someday maybe 1” groups with this new gun, if all of the stars if the universe align correctly

Yes it is all in the theoretical word right now. Just trying to avoid problems that “most likely would occur”. Like my gas block port. I have studied some from threads and learned that right now my 18” rifle length Faxon match series hole is on the small size of the range, it’s #43 or .089”. I first had a Kak mid length Barrel that was defective ( loose barrel extension) and at the same time I knew I’d probably be getting a higher dose of gas, so I got their heavy carbine buffer. Now with the rifle length barrel, I know their could be a chance of being undergassed so I preemptively ordered a 1/4 longer gas tube and know that theoretically I may be having to drill the port bigger. Just researching as much as I can to minimize troubleshooting problems. I still need to dimple the gas block and have two different gas blocks, a fixed and an adjustable. Since the two have different dimple spacing, I will only be dimpling the first hole in case I need to switch between the two. My receivers are Daytona Tactical and my handgaurd to be used is unfortunately an el cheapo Gun Tech ultra lightweight thin. At least the rail lines up... the super el cheapo Mentium handgaurd I first bough did not fit as advertised and the barrel nut was super super wobbly. At least the Guntech nut was only slightly wobbly loose. My Extra tight thermal fitting of the barrel to receiver makes me happy though. I betcha I could just take the barrel nut off and my barrel could not budge. That’s about the status of this build. Lucky I have gleaned info from you 98z5v and others. I will be theoretically shooting 1” groups at 100 with my Chinese rear and front open sites! Mark my words