sellmarkguy

Comes from Lite Optical in Japan.

Ultimate...

Congrats on your new rig. I have the exact same AP4 with rear sight also, only my FFT has vent-cuts or slots. Chamber polishing I would not worry about, as that usually is an issue with Stainless Steel barrels. Decent Scope for under $500? Either a Vortex Viper PST 2.5-10 or something Weaver or Bushnell. I hear that the Weaver Tactical Grand Slam is a fully Made in Japan scope, with Mrad adjustments for $299. But, the Burris MTAC 3-10 with Gen. 2 Mildot reticle and Mil adjustments has really piqued my interest. If you really want to keep firmly under $500, go with the Burris. The Gen 2 reticle makes holdovers easier with the 1/2 mil subtensions. http://www.opticsplanet.com/burris-3-5-10x-42mm-mtac-g2b-mil-dot-reticle-rifle-scope.html

Cool. You're right about barrel contour. They made a really good choice with that profile. Now, if only they can get the gas port size right! ??? I think you'll see that around 300 yards or so (if you get out that far), heating does not seem to affect grouping all that much. Here's my recipe: 150 FMJBT CCI Lrg. Mag. Primer 43.6 of BL/C (2)

Bob, you're not kidding. My 'sold' 18" SST was EXTREMELY accurate, albeit unreliable in the same manner as your's was prior to returning to CMMG. But have you noticed that the barrel gets super hot, and stays that way for a long time after shooting? My range session includes around 60 rounds and lasts an hour or so. After 30 rounds it really starts to heat up; more so than any chrome-moly barreled 308 ar I have owned.

good stuff

good info

don't know my velocity, but.. 150 FMJBT LC brass with LR Mag primer 43.5 Hodg. BL/C (2) Groups tight! I can shoot smiley faces at 200 yards!

thanks MadH.

MK214!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntf_GrbyxJ8

I have recently begun to load up some LC brass with 35.0 grains of BL/C2 , as opposed to the suggested Hodgdon medium load of 43.5. I will try to get pics, but recoil is slightly mitigated and allows me to fire faster cadences, while keep the muzzle on target with minimal rise. This is with the 150 grain bullet. Give it a try sometime. These were fired from the DPMS AP4.

Yes, I guess RRA was included. I like the new PWS MK216.

Here here, BLKSHEEP. Get your dollars and climb into a DPMS, Armalite, etc.

bummer, BB. Amazes me that they would try to fix this with an A2 buttstock. Can you see marks on the brass where it is hitting something? They should just give you a new rifle altogether.

+1 to your responses. I guess we could say that they ruined a really nice looking rifle with the potential to be a winner in this market. When I saw the 'other' thread on this issue, I cut and ran while I could. The UPS call tag from CMMG was in my Inbox and I DELETED it. And yeah Wash you're right. It's not about being anal; its about function. That gun needs to fire every time the trigger is squeezed. I can't believe that they tried to fix the other guy's gun using a spacer! How cheesy! :cookoo:

Sooo. anybody else here gonna try the roping a deer technique?

Sounds to me like Brent and Co. up there in Mo. are 'Franken-gunning it' like there's no tomorrow. They sent me a UPS return label and I thought 'No thanks.' This will be a never-ending friggin' saga. I started my own thread today detailing the EXACT same problems as you. I sold it off and bought a DPMS. I figured, stick with the company that has the most experience with the SR25 'pattern' rifle; DPMS I .. am ....a ... happy camper. <thumbsup>

Ok, it has been awhile since I have posted here and I thought I would tell you guys my story re: this rifle I had the 18" Stainless Steel barrelled version of this gun for about 6 months. Mods were Vltor EMOD stock, Pride and Fowler 3-9x32 scope, and Burris PEPR mount. I have good insight to share on their version of the 308AR. Positives were: 1. Accuracy - The thing would hit an INCH target at 300 yards with the PFI scope. Repeat accuracy was easily attainable, whethere 150 FMJBT or 175 HPBT. 300 yards was the farthest distance I had available. 2. Better components - I like the fact that it has a midlength gas system and Milspec buffer tube. Also, the FFT handguard is a nice touch with Low Prof Gas Block. Also, the flared magwell makes loading the mag a bit more simple, much like a 1911-racegun. 3. Weight - It uses a Stainless Steel HBAR profile barrel which really makes the rifle easy to wield and shoot offhand. I do not know where CMMG sources their barrels. Now, the bad, Ugly part of this. I sold my gun.. Here's why... I am extremely anal about function and the CMMG has some flaws that you should be aware of, should you decide to procure one of these babys. 1. Handguard fit - Loctite is your friend with this thing. The handguard is attached with 4 screws and while the layout of this is well thought out, the problem lies in the length of the screws. They do not seat deeply enough and attach firmly enough because during my training session, after about 5 rounds, the handguard would start to come loose. So... my Allans were at the ready because the handguard would start coming loose and have enough 'play' to be irritating. Even after using Loctite, it STILL came loose. I contacted CMMG about this, and while I have nice things to say about their people, I do not have nice things to say about this design. The Tech guy said they are kinda 'stuck' with that design. (His words, not mine) Not a good answer. 2. Failure to Eject - When I 1st bought this gun, the bolt carrier looked to be 'previously enjoyed.' Hmmmm.. Are they buying DPMS BCG rejects to build their uppers? Reliability was fine up until recently when I ended up with stovepipes. This later morphed into FT Ejects (Extraction fine, but empty would sit in the upper and bolt would close halfway on the empty. I thought it may be a dirty chamber, but I clean my chamber pretty regularly and even polished it, ever so slightly. The guy at CMMG said that the ejector could be problem, but it did not look bad to me. 3. Upper to Lower Fit - I have never seen worse. Understanding that an Accuwedge install will solve this, my gun had too much for my taste. Upon examining the machining of the front takedown pin hole, it did not look to be done very well. They cut these small V-s into the metal and I think this is a problem. The CHF barrel may have a better chamber than the stainless one, so in all fairness to them, the SS one could be way to rough. This could be contributing to the cycling issues, but it ran fine at first and got worse over time. This is just a 'buyer beware.' Looks can be deceiving! I went back to DPMS because of my previous positive experiences with them.

Hi Drew, yes sir, still around. Hope that you had a great holiday season.

Hi, I am looking for a DPMS 308 complete lower for my build. Please let me know what you have. Email is best contact: pilotlight71@hotmail.com Thanks...

Could you PM me letting me know on your location and which mil-surp types (Port, Malaysian,etc.) you have?

Are these 1,000 round cases??

Actually not at all! That was the first time that the firing pin had been removed from the BCG. I don't clean my rifle often; just lubricant. <thumbsup> It's good info for us to put into our trick bag. Wash, I have no idea where it went! <dontknow>

I went shooting this past weekend with some family of mine and of course, brought the venerable 308AR. When we got around to finishing up our pistol soiree, we broke out the rifles. I slipped a mag into the magwell and went to charge the handle. Nothing; no movement at all. Hmmmmmmm. This called for firmly rapping the buttstock on the ground to 'unstick' the bolt carrier, typical drill for an FTE. It only slid back an inch or two. Then, I tapped the muzzle on the ground to bring the BCG forward again into battery so that I could takedown the rifle and visually assess the problem. What happened was the firing pin was hanging halfway out of the BCG because the retaining pin for it was gone. I'm like, "How is that even possible?" The FP retaining pin was gone. I was able to get back into action with a little outside-the-box thinking. I found a small, thin piece of wood on the ground that was a perfect fit into the slot where the retaining pin usu. resides. The firing pin remained perfectly in place for the remainder of our shoot. Make a note of this if you ever experience this strange anomaly.

Thank you, gentlemen. I will be placing an order this week for them. In the meanwhile, I did use an alternative method for 'retaining' the firing pin sans the OEM part. I used a piece of toothpick-sized piece of wood to hold it in. It holds perfectly and I ran around 80 rounds through the rifle on Saturday without a hiccup. Just to let you know; it will work, if you're in a pinch.. <thumbsup>