barrysuperhawk

I need to come up with a 3d printed magwell for a DPMS .308 AR that is specifically cut to hold the lever on a Magpul D50 down. I have made them for an AR15 and a 9mmPCC, but I am having issues finding anything useful, and I am not good enough at CAD to make my own. Help?

Still breaking targets at 3 gun matches...LOL

Its hilarious that they offer financing next to the "add to cart" button... or maybe not really.

Ok, This is resurrecting an 8 year old thread, but I will try to help. I assume that @Brickdude also has a Bushmaster ORC in 308, found my thread via a search, then joined just to reply. In my experience, I have not found any incompatibilities in .308 extractors. In the ORC in this thread, I currently have an APCustom extractor in my stock bolt. and it fits perfectly. That doesent do you much good, because AP is also out of bizznas. But Wilson Combat still makes and sells .308 extractors and they are even available on ebay as of this posting: Wilson .308 extractor Some guys double o-ring their extractor, but I personally don't because it pretty much guarantees if the rim fails, it takes such a big bite that you have to pound the brass out with a rod. With a single, it's not quite as aggressive and you can still get in there with a little hook and pull it out if you need to.

Hey guys, I have a 20" DPMS Classic .308 and I decided I wanted to replace the monstrously thick front sight with a skinnier one to allow for more precision. I noticed it looked rather tall, so when I had the option of what front sight post to order, I ordered the longer of the 2 choices. When the sight post arrived and I installed it, I noticed that even the longer of the 2 options was shorter than I was removing. I went ahead and installed it but I didn't like how far up it was sticking [the original was above the ears on the FSB] and I also did not like seeing daylight under the base of the front sight post or the tenuous detent positioning, so I went ahead and screwed it in to a more proper mounting depth, and now I have to work out where to aim, etc. Logically, I should be able to aim low [6 oclock hold] on close targets and be able to dead hold on farther targets without having to adjust my rear sight, but I don't know how close this is going to be in reality, and events have conspired to keep me from going to the range to positively verify any of my assumptions, so I figured I can't have been the first to have ever had this problem, so here I am. I remember hearing service rifle shooters talk about filing their front sight down to allow a 6oclock hold when it was already bottomed out, but I confess I didn't pay much attention at the time. Right now my load is a 155gr Amax at 2800fps. My targets are 90% going to be the MGM flashers out to 5-600 and those skinny little mini-poppers out to maybe half that. I would like some guidance and guestimation on my holds, sight picture and trajectory so when I do make it to the range I am at least on paper and don't look like a total douche.

Well, I did say 18"+... I don't think 20" would be out of line, but much more and we are adding weight without much benefit, since the longest I could shoot this at is 600 and that's only rarely. As far as the .260 Rem, that looks like a cool cartridge, but I am scared to get into a cartridge that I don't already load for, given the current market for reloading supplies. Plus, I don't think .260 is allowed in any heavy metal class, optics or irons..

Yup. That's why I need an 18"+ barrel... Right now it's somewhat of a one-off, although I believe my buddy [the manufacturer] is eventually going to start making them for sale. [since this isn't an official product, I'm not sure what I am or am not supposed to say about it so I am going to err on the side of caution and say as little as possible, other than the length]

So, here I am, minding my own business and I get ambushed and end up with a 17" free float tube and adapter for a DPMS pattern 308 upper... without anything to put it on. So, I have decided that this is the perfect justification to put together or purchase another upper. My problem is I am having a devil of a time deciding what I want. On one hand, it would be nice to put together a top notch, long and heavy, super accuracy rig, but I am self aware enough to know that after the new car smell wore off, it would sit in the safe and never get shot until I got tired of it and sold it for a loss. I have 16" and 20" DPMS 308's already that I use for 3 gun [and apparently the 20" might be service rifle legal, I am told] but they are both iron sighted guns. What I don't have is a scoped upper, something I could dabble in Tac Heavy Optics if I was of a mind. There's a ton of stuff for sale, even if I restrict myself to the classifieds, and that is my real problem, too many choices. Requirements: 18" minimum barrel, 20" if I am going to use a Brake like JP or SJC. Flat top upper, Prefer normal height rather than extended so I can use a 1pc mount. I don't need a forward assist, and I am on the fence about the shell deflector. Would prefer to have a complete bolt/carrier. So, 308AR, help me make up my mind what I want. Do I want to build or buy and re-configure? It would be nice if I could buy a barrel [with block and tube], upper and bolt /BC all at once as a one stop shop [to avoid buying the wrong parts, etc] without having to buy a complete upper that I am immediately going to have to disassemble. So, please, make recommendations, but tell me why I want what you are suggesting. I am looking for ideas, something to help me narrow my search.

What version of Internet Explorer are you using? If your computer recently applied updates, [The middle of last week, IIRC], you may need to turn on compatibility mode, clear your browser cache, and restart your browser to get the CCP back. Or just use Chrome.

But certainly, I can make something work, can't I? it seems I just figure out how tall the parts are and adjust with shims or Dremel, right?

So, how do I figure out the center to drill it? And what do I need to know to drill CF??

Ok, I was about to pull the trigger on the Lancer and I noticed this on their site: This means I get to instantly void my warranty and learn how to drill CF and figure out how to match up Front Sights, yes?

Ok, breath(s) taken. Easy stuff first, I already have a SJC titan comp on it, so that end of the barrel is squared away. Or rather, I HAD a SJC titan comp on it until LGS decided to stick a screwdriver through it to remove it instead of grabbing the wrench that was right there on the bench.. [sorry, Traumatic events take a moment to fade.] I also already have a couple of Magpul stocks to swap out [MOE and a ACS] depending on weather I want to carry a battery. I also already have a match trigger in it. it's not a Geiselle but it will work, and it's not on backorder, it's in the gun.. ;-) I am going to look at that lancer, it might be the ticket. [HOLY CRAP, $350 AND a month's wait??? This better be the hottest thing since Jessica Alba] Anyone happen to have a used one laying around? Then I have to come up with some sights. With 3 different DPMS rail heights [miner is the new short] that ought to be interesting.. I never thought about an adjustable gas system, but I love the one on my FAL, so that might be something...

So, I mentioned my plan to my LGS, and he says, "Come on over, we got you covered." I said "Really?" "Oh yeah, no problem, come over after work, and we will hook you up." So, over I go, after work, to be hooked up... Disassembly went about like you would expect, with much pounding and cussing and gnashing of teeth, then was heard the utterance: "OH." This was not a good sound. "Wow, that's ALOT bigger than I thought." That was a worse sound. So we march in from the shop to look at the available parts..."Nope, nope, nope, nope and nope." Friends, romans and fellow wrench turners, I have completed the walk of shame, with a bag full of rifle parts and shattered dreams. My plan not to jack with the gas-block - Gone! So, this has gone from a rescue operation to a salvage operation. I have no words for the despair in my heart right now...

Ok, guys I have another of my "why would you want to do that" questions for y'all. I have a 308 Bushmanster ORC that I want to convert to an iron sight gun. In normal times, I might just sell it and buy the gun I want, but I haven't seen the exact configuration I want for sale anywhere, even before the panic. So I think my best option is to change what I have to what I want. My first and most pressing question is what to do about a free float tube. When I search on 308 free float tubes for Bushmaster I get some conflicting information on what will fit, and whether a standard AR tube will fit or if I need a special adapter. My gun looks exactly like this, except I have MOE hand guards on it. Since I was able to replace the hand guards with standard AR furniture, it stands to reason the mounting for free float tubes might also be the same. If I understand the difference, I only have to worry about the odd size free float tube/adapter if my rifle came with a FF tube from the factory, which mine did not. What I think I want is to run a free float out to the brake, and use a standard AR fixed Rear sight. Where I am on the fence is with the front sight. First option is to clamp a normal front sight [or a folding one] to the barrel, butted up against the back of the brake, and stop the free float tube just before it. I want to clamp because I don't want to mill for pins and I am not going to jack with the gas system. My objective is to get the longest sight radius I can. Second option is to go with a longer tube, and attach the FS to the tube. This has the advantage of seeming simpler but since the front sight is going to take some abuse [this s going to be a 3 gun rifle] going into barricades and dump barrels I would want to be sure it was going to stay put. It seems clamped to the barrel might be strongest and most durable, but the least elegant, and in the way if I decide to clamp on a scope for load testing. A folding clamp on like an ARMS #41 or the YHM 9394 would solve the "in the way" part but be less durable. The unknown [by me] is where a free float mounted front sight fits in. If it makes a difference I am considering an AP Carbon fiber tube to save some weight.

Twist rates: Bushmaster 1:10 DPMS 1:10 FAL 1:12 M1A Scout 1:11 My point is not to wring every single milimeter of accuracy out of what amounts to 2 military guns and 2 rack grade rifles. I am mostly working on generalities, my plan is to be able to be able to decide to shoot any of my rifles on a given match weekend without having to worry that I don't have ammo loaded for *that* rifle. If I could afford FGMM, I would just shoot that, because it mostly sets the accuracy standard for almost every .308 out there in it's 168 gr offering. OTOH, the 155's have the added ability to be interchanged with SA or most any other decently hot 147 gr surplus ammo and enjoy roughly the same drops and sight adjustments. So keep the opinions comming.

I need some ideas. Up to this point, I have loaded 155 palma bullets as my go to accuracy load, with 155 a-maxes as an "almost as good" substitute load. BL-C2 has been my go-to powder so far because I can load every rifle round I load with the same powder. I settled on the 155s because that was what shot best out of my first .308, a FAL, and I have never revisited that choice. Now I have this monstrous gift certificate from Sierra to use and I am wondering if I shouldn't reconsider my bullet choice, at least.. I am likely going to be able to buy a lifetime supply of bullets, so I need to be a bit more sure than I am. I also have more rifles to feed now... In addition to my FAL -which truth to be told has always been a 4 minute gun with milsurp, 3 minute with handloads, I now have a couple AR pattern .308's [16" bushmaster and 20" DPMS] and a 18" M1A, all of which are more accurite than the FAL. It seems everyone else on the net likes 168's better than 155's, especially for the M1A. Another consideration is I also still have some SA milsurp that I shoot at closer ranges [<100y] and on hoser 3 gun stages, so being able to load to a similar trajectory and POI is a distinct advantage of the 155's. Right now 90% of my shooting is under 200y, although sometimes at very small targets, with a very few stages out to 4-600 yards. I may shoot the occasional hi-power match to "practice" my long range shooting, but even then, the longest range within reasonable driving distance is 600y and most of the matches near me are held at 200y. I also do 90% of my shooting with irons. Occasionally I will toss a red dot on for matches without long rifle shots, but I only own 1 rifle that could take a magnified scope easily.. and at worst that would be a 1-4 or 1-6. So, given all of this, and with the caviat that of course I would work up a load and test in each gun, should I stick with my 155's or venture into the unknown world of 168's?

Since supplies of decent surplus .308 are long gone, and most all of the steel stuff sucks, I have been looking for what ammo to buy to blast with. I already handload all of my precision ammo, but I hate to "waste" my good stuff hammering away at a 66% IPSC at 100Y at a match where I can't pick up my brass. My old standby was SA .308, it was Brass, Berdan, and shot fairly accurately out of all of my .308's [2 AR pattern rifles, 2 FAL's and a M1A]. My go-to handload being a 155 palma bullet, I would like to stay in the 150 +/- range, which brings me to the Federal M80 Bulk pack: Forgive me for the CTD link, it was google's first choice.. A couple local shops have this available, and the price, while not good, is at least cheaper than 20 round commercial .308 ammo. The only thing stopping me from buying a case or 2 to try is the comparatively bad rep that the XM193 and XM855 have for accuracy or lack thereof. Is the XM80 the same story or is it comparable to the more accurate surplus ammo of yesteryear? I don't need 1/4 MOA, but if it's 4-5MOA then it's not worth it, because TULAMMO or Wolf MC will do that... As a secondary question, are the primers on this crimped or sealed? If I do have the opportunity to retrieve some of this, how easy will it reload?

I hate Steel vs Brass threads, invariably some space shuttle door gunner instructor shows up and tels us all how awful steel cased ammo is for our precious guns. The worst part is some new shooters that don't know any better accept his internet creds and believe the propaganda. It's hogwash, all of it. Maybe if you only shoot 20 rounds out of your safe queen in a year, I can see only shooting brass. Otherwise Sucumbing to the FUD is just bad. Let's see if I can catch the high points: Steel is too hard to expand like brass, so will not seal as well - Bullcrap, think about the relative pressures here, hell even .22LR expands and seals sufficiently [remember the Junior .22LR in the wax paper boxes?] Steel will wear out your extractor/firing pin/ etc. - Bullshytte. Moving parts wear and break. When you break a part using brass, you don't blame the brass, but if you are using Steel cased ammo - then it must be the steel, not the 5000 previous rounds that wore that part out. And Spoons made Rosie Fat. Steel QC is lower than brass - Bullpuckey. Winchester and Federal individually have each had more ammo recalls than all of the animal brands put togeather. Google it. Steel will blow up your gun - Bullbiscuts. The most common complaint I have ever heard about steel cased ammo is it isn't as hot as brass, and the Velocity is lower, yet even Companies who should know better, ilke DPMS put blurbs in their manuals about steel cased ammo and double charges. On a lark, I pulled a Wolf .308 round and guess what I saw, the exact same loading density as my FGMM, and it even looked to be a similar powder. See the pix below. The Lacquer/Polymer will gum up the works, cause things to stick, cause stuck cases, etc. - Bulltaters. Residue from the bullet/primer sealant look ugly, and some of the animal brands definately user dirtier powder than their brass counterparts, but here's a couple of experements you can try at home. #1 take a spent case an heat it to try to get the coating to melt. Eventually it will burn, but then apply the exact same amount of heat to a brass case and see what happens to it. The flame required to Fork with the coating on steel cases will also totally fork up a brass case. #2 look on the ground at the range and try to find even one piece of steel that the coating has flaked off of. Unless they have been stepped on or rained on, most steel case lands on the ground looking BETTER than once fired brass does. Stuck cases - I have seen 3 in my life that were steel and 4 that were brass. In every case, [that I have personally seen], the gun was filthy [should have been cleaned hundreds of rounds ago]. Brass cases seem MORE likely to crack down to the casehead than Steel, in my experience. It will void my warranty - Bull...waitaminute, I cannot disagree with this, some chickensnort companies WILL void your warranty if they find evidence of steel cased ammo, or if you tell them you used it. I merely present this as an example of how lawyers are ruining our society, spreading FUD in the name of liability. It is wrong and terribly unfair, but it is reality. Steel won't fit/feed/extract right in your gun Bull...waitanother minute Ok, there are a couple of instances where this is true. In .45ACP, TulAmmo 230 Gr bullets are shorter and fatter than their Winchester counterparts, which can lead to some feeding problems in some 1911's.. If you were to seat the Winchesters to the same COAL, you would have many of the same issues. The fatness or the ogive also presents problems by occasionally contacting the slide stop on some guns, locking the slide open with rounds in the mag. Also, x39 AR's are pretty famous for not liking HP ammo. One last data point. Nobody can argue that Hornady puts out some of the best ammo there is, and even they have some out with a steel cased ammo line. No doubt it is still made by Boris in Unpronouncableastan, but I cannot see Hornady being willing to risk their corporate good name on a line of ammo if it really had all of these problems when they could just as easily named their "generic" ammo line something totally different. In closing, Steel case is different than brass, and in many peoples minds different = bad. Don't believe the FUD. As promised the "Pull" pictures: [img width=810 height=607]http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff153/barrysuperhawk/20120330_205459.jpg [img width=810 height=607]http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff153/barrysuperhawk/20120330_205747.jpg

If you intend to reload, be aware this is SMALL PRIMER .45ACP!

PPU .308 is the only SP .308 I have found, so far. As far as benchres shooters I don't know, but searching around, there are posts on other forums about it being a cost saving measure, as in cheaper to do one size primers than two.

I just set off a primer in my press, twice in 3 hours, once in .45 and once in .308. I have black specs on my forehead and on my glasses, and I cannot hear anything but this ringing noise.... A POX on any manufacturer that switches from large primers to small primers on brass that's SUPPOSED to be large primed. I don't care what weasel reason they have, I don't care if it's cheaper or greener or if it makes an AK group subMOA at 1200 meters, it sucks and I hate it. Especially PPU .308 and Federal .45ACP, the bastards. It's not enough to have to sort for berdan priming and for crimped primers, now we have to look out for SMALL primers too? That's all I have.

Fiberglass M1A stock Ported G34 barrel Whole passle of small parts from brownells

The old style bushmaster uppers will fit, but good luck finding one of those off the gun.

Springfield here.... Have 3 Guns, will travel for 3 gun matches... I use the same name on every other forum too... Been through half a dozen .308 AR's a couple of Armalites [back when the mags sucked], a 1st gen Bushmaster [FAL mag], a RRA [FAL mag], a DPMS AP4, now a Bushmaster [pmag] ORC in .308. Pmags are the only thing that makes this platform worthwhile, IMHO.