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Please don't use a CAR-10 buffer with the extended buffer tube. Your bolt can over-travel and the carrier key will strike the lower receiver ring. Chaos will ensue. I have milspec carbine buffer tubes in stock if you need one.

The mid length gas system is a lot more forgiving, especially on .308 ARs. Most carbine systems run OK, choose the right components and you will be fine. You're getting a lot of suggestions as to which buffer/spring to use, but no one has asked the most imortant question - What type of stock do you want to use? Depending on your answer, some of these suggestions could be completely misguided. You have two options when installing a carbine-length stock on a .308: Use an extended VLTOR/ArmaLite buffer tube. Use a standard AR15 carbine buffer tube With this option you need a shorter buffer, either my CAR-10 Buffer or a DPMS-type .308 carbine buffer. The DPMS version is cheaper, but you get what you pay for, and you can expect premature wear/breakage on the bolt lugs and extractor among other things. The DPMS buffers weigh about the same as a .223 carbine buffer - Just too light for prolonged use in a .308 rifle. Magpul specifically recommends using my buffers with their stocks on .308 ARs. CAR-10 buffers are in use by US and Canadian military forces, as well as LEOS and shooters around the world. Either way PLEASE make certain that you use an appropriate .308 buffer spring, not a .223 spring. Note the Wolff and Springco do not make .308 springs. A lot of functioning issues are eventually traced to using the wrong buffer spring. I recommend using ArmaLite AR10 buffer springs for all .308s. If you decide to go with an AR15 tube you will need to purchase a modified spring for proper function. I do not recommend using flat-wire springs under any circumstances. Please feel free to contact me via email if you have any questions:[img height=20 width=176]http://www.heavybuffers.com/images/Email%20Icon.gif

Bump for info.

Thanks for the field report Spaniky73. A muzzle brake or recoil pad will help reduce felt recoil, but the gun is still taking a beating. This is especially true on DPMS .308s with their anemic buffers and springs. A heavy buffer actually slows down the BCG, which makes things a LOT easier on the bolt, extractor and brass and your shoulder. ;)

My customers have been very happy with the JP brake. It's about the only JP item I can recommend.

I would have removed the CWS and tried it with a good spring.

I've done extensive testing with various buffer springs for both .223 and .308. The flat wire springs did not perform well. Spring rate, set, and service life are all poor compared to most other buffer springs, even cheap OEM units. I recommend Wolff XP springs for all .223 applications and ArmaLite AR10 springs for all .308s. Several spring manufacturers have contacted me about carrying their products. Some offered their wares at substantially lower cost (and therfore higher profit potential) than Wolff. I declined, because I want to sell the best, not the cheapest. My customers deserve no less. I've had several DPMS owners call me after they received their orders. They were convinced that I'd sent the wrong spring because operating the CH required significantly more force. My response - That's because the ArmaLite springs are significantly better. 8)

If you have a 4 oz. buffer in a .308 rifle something is wrong. I've done extensive testing and I recommend using ArmaLite AR10 buffer springs in all .308 ARs. Until I can talk Wolff into making .308 springs the ArmaLites are the best available. DPMS .308 springs are notoriously weak and inconsistent. And that is assuming that the assembly monkeys at DPMS installed the correct spring in the first place. I've seen several factory DPMS .308 rifles with AR15 rifle buffer springs. Measuring the relaxed length is not an accurate way to compare/identify springs. Counting the number of coils is much better. One last thing - Stay away from the flat wire springs. Far, far away.

There are flats machined into the end of the tube so you can use a standard wrench. Most 'armorer's tools' also have a provision for this job.

Correct on all counts. Look no further if you want the BEST parts for your .308 AR. In stock at Brownell's: Buffer - www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=44697/Product/AR10-308AR-CAR-10-BUFFER Spring - www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=44698/sku=100007354/Product/MODIFIED-AR10-BUFFER-SPRING And always available at www.heavybuffers.com

This is always a controversial topic, but here is my opinion: 16" - 400 yards 18" - 600 yards For longer ranges I would want a 21-22" barrel. I firmly believe that 18" is nearly ideal for most .308 applications. VERY, VERY few guys ever shoot past 300 yards, and even fewer go past 500 yards. 18" is the perfect compromise of weight, muzzle velocity and ergonomics (have you ever tried toting an AR with a 24" barrel through the woods?).

Unfortunately, you cannot defy the laws of Physics. The brakes that are the most effective at reducing recoil also produce the most blast/noise.

I honestly wasn't aware of this forum until today. So many forums, so little time. I updated the avatar. ;)

The CAR-10 buffer will allow you to use any AR15 collapsing stock (MagPul/LMT/VLTOR/CavArms/etc) on your AR10, SR25, LMT, POF or DPMS-pattern .308 rifle. This product is specifically recommended by Magpul for use with their UBR stock on .308 ARs. CAR-10 buffers work great with any other stock using a standard 7" carbine buffer tube. CAR-10 buffers are shorter and heavier than standard carbine buffers. Constructed of 303 Stainless Steel with a sliding Tungsten anti-bounce counterweight. Heavy buffers reduce felt recoil for the shooter, and minimize wear and tear on the gun. Some users have reported that the CAR-10 buffer significantly increased the reliability of their firearms. This is strictly a 'Drop-In' part, no gunsmithing or modifications are required. I recommend using modified ArmaLite AR10 rifle buffer springs with these buffers. OEM springs from other manufacturers or aftermarket springs may cause malfunctions. 'Flat-Wire' springs are not recommended. Note: This buffer is designed for use in .308 ARs with a 7" receiver extension (buffer tube). If you have an ArmaLite/VLTOR extended length tube (7-3/4") please see the AR15 Carbine Buffer page. Not compatible with .223 ARs. CAR-10 Buffer & Modified Buffer Spring - $111 plus shipping. CAR-10 XH Buffer & Modified Buffer Spring - $137 plus shipping Extra-Heavy model for suppressed weapons, or for maximum recoil reduction in non-suppressed guns. Recommended for use with suppressed weapons. Also a great option to help reduce recoil in non-suppressed guns. Works great with the popular "Big-Bore" calibers - 450 Bushmaster, .458 SOCOM, .50 Beowulf and others. Some customers are using this buffer in standard .308 ARs to make shooting more comfortable for their youngsters. I strongly recommend this buffer if any of the following conditions apply: If you will be shooting with a suppressor. (Your gun will still run fine unsuppressed with standard ammunition.) If you will be shooting hot handloads or very heavy bullets. If you want maximum recoil reduction. I recommend using ArmaLite AR10 rifle buffer springs with these buffers. OEM springs from other manufacturers or aftermarket springs may cause malfunctions. 'Flat-Wire' springs are not recommended. AR10R-XH Buffer & Spring - $137 plus shipping. More info http://www.heavybuffers.com

I'm going to try to correct/clarify some inaccurate info in this thread. First, as was stated previously, ALL buffer tube have the same inside diameter. Only the outside diameter is different. Buffer selection is dependent on the length of the tube (and the type of gun), not the diameter. Carbine buffer tubes (receiver extensions) are available in two different lengths. A standard AR15 type tube is 7" long inside and an AR10 (VLTOR) tube is 7-3/4" long inside. All carbine buffers ARE NOT the same length! There are three basic variations. 1 - AR15 buffers are 3.250" long and will work (obviously) in any AR15 with a standard carbine buffer tube. These same buffers will also work on ArmaLite and DPMS pattern .308 ARs if you use the extended buffer tube. 2 - .308 carbine buffers are shorter and will allow you to use an AR15 type buffer tube on a .308 AR. A modified .308 spring is sometimes required for proper function. 3 - Rock River Arms require an even shorter buffer and a modified spring. It is important to note that you should never use a buffer that is shorter than required for your specific application. You most definitely CAN pick a buffer that it too short. IE - A RRA .308 carbine buffer will physically fit into any other configuration. But if you were to install one of these buffers into say, an AR10 with an AR15 tube, the bolt will over-travel and the carrier key will strike the lower receiver ring and mayhem will ensue. Is is important to make sure that you use a .308 buffer spring in ALL .308 ARs. NEVER use ANY AR15 buffer spring in a .308 AR. I strongly recommend using ArmaLite AR10 buffer springs, and I discourage the use of any 'Flat Wire' spring. The difference between a "$100 buffer" and the DPMS .308 carbine buffers is MASS. The DPMS buffers weigh only about 1/3 oz. more than and AR15 carbine buffer. Way too light when you consider the differences in pressure between .223 and .308. DPMS merely took a shortcut, there's a reason why they don't offer a lifetime warranty. Their buffer is simply an H3 buffer that is cut down in length and then they remove one of the Tungsten weights. A great 'field expedient' method, but not good for your gun in the long term. A lot of customers turn to me when their DPMS factory carbines start breaking parts. I strongly discourage using any buffer lighter than an H3 in a .308 AR. Final note - You can't 'upgrade' a factory DPMS carbine to an H3 buffer unless you also upgrade to an ArmaLite/VLTOR buffer tube. The DPMS tube is too short and will restrict bolt travel. The gun will not eject/chamber a round from the magazine. I hope that this information is helpful. If any questions remain please feel free to contact me.