gsmopar

I would have the wrong one then. Where on the site do you see the DPMS? I only see 2 for the 308: http://heavybuffers.com/ar10carbine.html His table lists the one I have for DPMS:

Thanks guys! I checked the stock buffer next to my Heavybuffer and the Heavybuffer is longer. Heavybuffer: Shorter spring, longer buffer DPMS: Short Buffer, longer spring If I use the Heavybuffer Spring with the DPMS Buffer I have about 1/4 inch between the bolt face and bolt catch. I'm thinking about trying this combo to see if it fixes my cycling issues. If it works I'll replace the tube and probably look at one of the nicer butt stocks that comes with a tube. Thoughts? Heavybuffer and Heavybuffer Spring = Short Stoke DPMS Buffer and DPMS Spring = Short Stroke Heavybuffer Spring and DPMS Buffer = ? Heavy Buffer with no spring:

Commercial and yes on the DPMS spring. The DPMS is actually longer than the Heavybuffer spring. How much space do some of your rifles have from the bolt face to the bolt catch with the charging handle pulled all the way back. I'm tempted to run by a gun store today and look at some other guns. I have no where near as much space as the guy in the videos in the 1st post.

With the spring removed, I have between 1/16 an 1/18 inch between the bolt face and bolt catch. edit: I meant between 1/16 and 1/32

I'll go try that now. Give me a second.

I'm using a Heavy Buffer CAR-10 with spring, and no the bolt doesn't lock back.

While researching my short stroking problem, I stumbled upon these videos. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygdiqV5ppkw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8i_lXMhgV0 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HW2Hs8MmqpY Questions: 1. What is the correct internal depth dimension for a Carbine LR308 tube? Mine is a little over 6.75 inches. 2. How much (estimate) room do you have between the bolt face and bolt catch with the charging handle pulled all the way back? I would have to use a feeler gauge to measure mine as it appears to be minimal.

I want one!

I watched a couple videos on this guy, any real world experience? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/549434/jp-enterprises-silent-captured-recoil-buffer-spring-ar-10-lr-308

I know that I've been over oiling mine. Does FailZero make a BCG for the 308? I didin't see one on their website.

I would like to say that I'll leave Arizona in an Urn or Pine box. However, when that time comes I'd like my ashes spread at the Drag Strip.

I don't think that anyone answered your polish question earlier. I've been researching it for a while and once my hone arrives I'm going to give it a shot. In short, you don't want to polish. Here are some helpful links: http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394688 http://www.varmintal.com/a243z.htm And I ordered a 800 grit hone and oil from these guys (Brownells didn't carry one for a 308??? and Midway was out of stock): http://www.brushresearch.com/ Watch the video on their page. Looks easy enough!

Street-able 600hp out of a little 383 is a tall order, and at that level the block is marginal. You're going to spend some $$cash$$ if that is the number you're shooting for. Take a look at this: http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0605_mopar_performance_383_stroker_engine/ and part 2: http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0608_mopar_performance_383_stroker_engine/ ...and incase you want to skip to the foot notes. They hit the 600hp mark on a 383 and it ended like this:

20K for the engine or the car?

Gen 1 hemi in a '71 cuda? :puke: No no no no no!!! Also, neither engine will meet your 600hp weekend cruiser goal without some sort of serious power adder. If you're serious about wanting our input, give us a budget to work with and are you married to those 2 engine blocks?

Might be a coincidence, but are you using this one: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/238414/dpms-buttstock-assembly-6-position-collapsible-lr-308-carbine-synthetic-black

I found this cool video on short stroking. If I had to do this all over again, I would have bought a Ruger SR7.62. I enjoyed the build, but I've spent too much time troubleshooting and not enough time shooting. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bL808lxdEsA

Powerman we should go shooting! My story is similar to yours and I have yet to find a solution. I recently took my lower back to the Manufacturer and he ended up moving the pivot point for my bolt catch and replacing my lower parts kit. He said that he doesn't know if that will affect the short stroke problem, but he fixed it none the less. I also recently polished my chamber, but after watching a few youtube videos I used a slightly different method than the chamber brush listed above. One thing I'd like to try on the next outing: I seem to recall getting through the 1st magazine successfully and the short stroke starts on Mag 2 or 3. If this is really the case and not just my imagination; I thought that I could test the theory by letting the gun sit for a while after the 1st short stroke and/or bringing a can of compressed air to cool it off. I think that this would point to a tight chamber (barrel heat, etc...). My wife is expecting baby #2 any day. As soon as things are back to normal around here, I'm going to hit the range an see if any of this crap worked! Good luck buddy and you're not the only one! ps: survivalshop, Can you elaborate on the magazine catch? I noticed that mine was looser (more screwed out) when I got it back from repair. How does this affect the cycling and how tight should it be?

I was eying the Ruger 1911. I like the smaller stainless model! <thumbsup>

I didn't think to look to see if it was locking on the bolt face or carrier. I will take note next time. I remember rubber o-rings on the extractor, but I'm not sure if it was 1 or 2. I can check that easy enough. I'm using a carbine length buffer and am located in Arizona (Gilbert).

I don't have an adjustable gas block (at least I don't think that it's adjustable), but I agree that it appears to be under gassed. My bolt locks back on the single shot tests as well, but on occasion it has not lock on the last round of a full magazine.

Here is a pic of the key on the carrier. I read that thread comparing the gas tube length inside the upper. I'll measure that next. I've used wide array of ammo types The gun shoots the heavy stuff just fine, but doesn't like 147 or similar nato rounds. This time out I was using the Winchester white box 7.62 147 grain. I have a 5.6 oz heavy buffer and Tubbs BCW. I've played with the carrier weights and haven't had much success. This time out I had the middle weight (steel) in the BCW. Yes. I rebuilt the bolt, replacing the ejector and spring previous to this outing. Thanks for the ideas! Keep them coming!!!

Reference my earlier thread for additional history: First trip to the range after changing the ejector and the problem still persists. I took pictures of the jams and I suspect that it is short stroking: After reading the CMMG barrel nut stories on this board, I figured that it would be in my best interest to tear the upper down and take a look at things. After removing the hand guard I found this: I continued with the teardown and inspection. The barrel nut came off with little effort, but I can't say that it was loose enough to allow the barrel to move: I used a mic to measure the distance from the shoulder to the gas port and then measured the gas block. I came up with a 1/16 in offset to align the holes. The barrel is drilled for the back setscrew in the gas block and this aligned with my measurements. Is this normal for a gas block, or could this be a symptom of my problem? Thanks again for all of the help! Greg

Yes, they are the same. Really nice range. I really like there Shot Gun range.

The new parts showed up yesterday. There is a HUGE difference in spring pressure form old to new with the new spring being significantly harder to compress. Also differences in ejector design and retaining pin length. Details below: