But how heavy can you go without messing up the cycling. I've found what wen I made my heavy buffer that 12oz was just enough to make it unreliable. Dropped it to 11.2 oz and everything worked nicely. Send me one of those inserts and let me see what I can come up with.
The whole point of a 300 blk is not needing to reconfigure the gas system when switching between supers and subs. What's your build like Magwa? Perhaps something is not right with it.
New buffer, spings, etc won't solve the problem if the BCG is too far forward to push the buffer off the retaining pin. You're just going to be throwing good money after bad and ruining a new buffer in the process. Double check the BCG length and see. I think I may have an idea that I could make on the CNC that could potentially solve this type of issue...
It looks like the BC is too short, or it could be that it's seated too deep in the receivers. The latter could be because of tolerance stacking between the upper and lower. Was the upper/lower a matched set? From the "ring" of marks on your buffer, it looks like it's being stopped by the retainer and not being stopped by the BCG when the BCG is fully forward.
The lowers look like they are the GII variety so I'm assuming they are built on the GII platform. Look at the section behind the pistol grip and how it extends straight back - that's a GII. I checked with my distros and even the GII models are out of stock.
Looks like an issue with the BC assembly. When fully assembled, the BC should push the buffer back by a tiny bit so it doesn't rest on the buffer retaining pin. Could also be upper receiver related too (probably a result tolerance stacking between the lower and the upper) that is causing the BC to be too far forward during firing. Bottom line; with the bolt carrier group fully forward, it should still contact the buffer. Those circumferential marks on the face-edge of the buffer indicate it's slamming into the buffer retaining pin when it's cycling and with proper BC/buffer contact those marks should never be seen.
Cerakote can be layered somewhat (but keep it thin). The instructions say to flash dry one color for 15 mins in the oven (250 F) before putting the next color on it, then bake it as normal after you're done painting it. I haven't tried it as yet, but it's on one of the things to learn/try.
Oh, I thought you were referring to Cerakote. You can adjust the mix of the Cerakote hardener to get different levels of finish, from matte to a soft satin.
In terms of durability (best to worst): Cerakote H series > Cerakote C series > Durakote > Krylon. :D
No oven? Use the one in the kitchen and tell the wife to stick it and make you a sammich instead.