Slugger's first 308

[slugger43]

So the 80% is now about 99% done.  Here's the final parts list:

 

Lower:  80percentarms in FDE

(finished that with their 308 jig and accessories.)

Upper:  Aero Precision....and by the way, the two locked up like a vault door.  Snuggery!

Barrel:  Mega 18" mid-gas, bought from and headspaced by Rainier

BCG:  - Ares Armor NiB

Gas System:  Seekins gas tube, Syrac adjustable gas block.  (Might not need that, but what the hell?)

DPMS LPK, UPK, buffer, tube and spring.  (Also have a Tubb flat-wire spring in inventory...

Rail: Troy 12.5" rail

 

Lastly, topped with a 4-16 x 42 Nikon Monarch 3 hanging on a Burris PEPR QR mount

 

Color choices were based on a ridiculous decision to make the new rifle color-compatible with my go-to carry pistol. 

 

oops, almost forgot - used an Elftmann trigger.  First build with one of those.  We'll see how it goes.

 

 

Edited July 6, 2015 by slugger43

[sketch]

Way to go bro!! What's left? Ammo!!

[slugger43]

Still have one problem.  Bolt not locking back with the DPMS bolt stop.  OK, go ahead and say "I told you so".  Should have gone with the Armalite lower parts kit, right?  OK, lesson learned.

 

Question:  Do I order the 10-A or 10-B lower parts kit?  The bolt just clears the bolt stop with a magazine inserted.  And, if I raise the stop by pressing on the bolt stop lever, it just barely "ticks" the bottom of the bolt.  Other than that, it seems to be functioning just fine. Also, is there a good source of parts besides Armalite?  No offense, but when I discovered the problem, I got on the phone to Armalite, and talked to a guy who didn't seem all that interested in my problem.   I got a pretty serious lecture indicating that there was no way I should be using Armalite parts in a DPMS pattern rifle.  I told him I understood he could not assure me that they would work, and l neither cared about assurance or expected any.  He indicated that he had a guy (right here) who has built a number of those, and he says not to use our parts, they are not compatible.

 

So, 10A or 10B?  Clue me in and I'll order without discussing my rifle with them, if I must buy from Armalite.

[slugger43]

Way to go bro!! What's left? Ammo!!

Thanks.  Nope, got a fair stock of ammo.  Soon as I get the above detail with my bolt stop fixed, I'm off to sling lead.  Son coming to town this week, so hoping to get this resolved while he's here.  Hell, he just bought me 100 rounds of Federal.  Oughta let him help shoot it up.

[98Z5V]

10B bolt stop.  It's higher overall than the 10A.  DSG Arms has the 10B in stock, but they don't list it as such.  It's the only 308 bolt stop they carry.  Prepare yourself mentally, as you might have to "fit" that bolt stop when you get it.  I listed dimensions in another thread.  All depends on your lower, though.  You'll have to see once the 10B arrives.

 

Badass looking lower - like the lines.  That was an 80%?!  You did  damn good job finishing it.  <thumbsup>

[98Z5V]

You did  damn good job finishing it.

 

My computer doesn't like the letter "a"...    and doesn't type it most of the time...  "did A damn good job..."  <lmao>

[slugger43]

Thanks.  I really appreciate the input.  I've been paying a lot of attention here for several months, learned a ton.  I bit the bullet on shipping and ordered a really fast shipping of that whole lower parts kit (no trigger or pistol grip).  

 

Compliments from the knowledgeable guys mean a lot.  Thanks to all the guys who help us rookies on a regular basis.

 

In fact, I respect your opinion so much, I gotta do one of those "full disclosure" things.  If you look at the engraving I had done, the "cereal" number  <laughs> is TNPGHOST 01A.  Yes, my friend, there as a number "01".  The "A" model was required because I popped a hole in the front wall on my first one.  This is attempt #2.  BTW, #1 was usable, and I have repaired it with a gob of JB weld and re-milled it.  Problem was a combination of working too fast and a router with a marginal bearing.  I swapped the router and learned to be a bit more patient.

 

The name, number, ghost logo, all just a poke at our friends at BATFE.  Gotta have a little fun with this.....

[slugger43]

Should add a compliment on quality of service here.  When I buggered the first lower, I called 80percentarms.com trying to figure what happened. They were very helpful, and indicated that the FU lower (they had pctures of the problem) was usable, and suggested the JB Weld for the problem, which was, in reality mostly cosmetic.

 

The cool part was they honored, no question, no problem, their promise to sell you a second 80% lower at half price, if you FU one using their jig.  Service was courteous, fast and efficient.  Also took the time to discuss various options so far as routers were concerned.  The insides of both lowers have now been painted with FDE Duracoat, and you might have a problem finding the screwup on #1.  So I have two lowers, both usable.  Pretty cool.

 

Oops, had to add that "half price" comment.  Anyone would sell you another one.  80percentarms.com will sell you the replacement at 50% of retail.

Edited July 7, 2015 by slugger43

[survivalshop]

  Measure the height from the flat deck of the lower to the top of the Bolt Catch , with it raised all the way . The Bolt Catch not going high enough to catch the Bolt properly can be a couple of things that have little to do with brand of 308AR Bolt Catch .

 

  Should catch the Bolt , like this .

Edited July 7, 2015 by survivalshop

[slugger43]

 

Well, the stop does not raise as much on the magazine, vs. raised by hand.  Distance extending with finger pressure to max is .469 and measured resting on magazine is .418.  As you can see from pix, the stub on the bolt stop ends up right on the edge of the P-Mag follower.  However, even with maximum extension, this stop just ticks the bottom of the bolt - way too low to stop the bolt.

[slugger43]

10B bolt stop.  It's higher overall than the 10A.  DSG Arms has the 10B in stock, but they don't list it as such.  It's the only 308 bolt stop they carry.  Prepare yourself mentally, as you might have to "fit" that bolt stop when you get it.  I listed dimensions in another thread.  All depends on your lower, though.  You'll have to see once the 10B arrives.

 

Badass looking lower - like the lines.  That was an 80%?!  You did  damn good job finishing it.  <thumbsup>

 

 

Thanks for the info, and I went back and read the other thread, saw the pics of your surgically altered bolt stop.  Turns out I came by a 10B and a 10A, but before I played with either, I found a super "cheat".  I got hooked up with Mega Arms on a separate issue (see range reports) and they had one they use in some of their builds.  Obtained one, stuffed it in, and it worked perfectly.  Smooth as a cat's ass.  

 

   

[slugger43]

Range report:  Rifle sucks on first trip to range.  Major chambering problems with several kinds of ammo- Federal FMJ, Hornady 168 gr A-max, and, out of desperation, a few rounds of something the range officer had in his gun bag.  Out of 20 rounds, able to get about six down range.

 

Stopped at gun store on the way home to verify head space, which was originally verified by Rainier when and where I bought the 18" Mega mid gas barrel.  That was with my Ares NiB BCG, which I took in when I picked up the barrel.  Gunsmith says he can't close my bolt on his go gauge.  What the??????

 

Called Rainier, who were zero help, didn't even have the phone number for Mega.  Too busy to discuss.  Called Mega Arms.  WHOLE different deal with these folks.  Awesome response.  Very helpful lady hooks me up with Jason.  GM in their Centralia, WA facility. This resulted in a complete review of all the parts of my build, long discussion.  Eventually, verified head space was okay.  Replaced single ring on Ares bolt with three rings, which helped, and ammo will chamber, but not fire.  Apparently this BCG does not like being in my particular rifle.

 

Replaced the Ares bolt with a new Rubber City Armory nitride BCG, and test fired.  Flawless.

 

Son and I hustle out to the range for a quick function check, and this puppy now runs like a watch!   Ran three kinds of ammo through it with zero problems.  Not bad for a not-broken-in rifle.  My best group with Hornady 168 gr A-max 1-3/8", son's best group 1-1/16".  That's three rounds, not five, by the way.  This will end up shooting better than I'm capable of.  

 

I'm not ready to beat up on Ares Armor at this point.  Have not had time to call and talk to them.  My guess is their stuff is fine, and it's likely just one of those mix-and-match parts problems I read about here all the time.

[survivalshop]

  NIB is a Coating & I have seen from the very beginning of this type of coating , that some are applied with it too thick , maybe only in some areas of the Part , but enough to make Head Spacing problems . Not saying thats definitely the problem with the Bolt , but something to consider . You can cycle that bolt in the rifle by hand to break it in more to see if it will pass HS.. 

 I know of people who have sat watching TV for hours , just cycling the action to wear in the Bolt to get the " GO " gage to close with the Bolt . Your Nitrided Bolt has no coating .

 

  The DPMS Bolt Stop in your Photos , seems to show rubbing marks , could be the BS or the Finnish on the Lower or both , could be why its not functioning properly . The Maga may be made with different spec's  <dontknow>

 

  You got it going & that's all that matters . Its why there are Gun Smiths out there , this is what they do . This is why the 308AR builds are said to be so different & challenging , it not cut & dry , with MilSpec , all the same spec parts of an AR 15 build , you have to have a little Gun Smith in you when using the wide range of 308AR components .

[slugger43]

  NIB is a Coating & I have seen from the very beginning of this type of coating , that some are applied with it too thick , maybe only in some areas of the Part , but enough to make Head Spacing problems . Not saying thats definitely the problem with the Bolt , but something to consider . You can cycle that bolt in the rifle by hand to break it in more to see if it will pass HS.. 

 I know of people who have sat watching TV for hours , just cycling the action to wear in the Bolt to get the " GO " gage to close with the Bolt . Your Nitrided Bolt has no coating .

 

  The DPMS Bolt Stop in your Photos , seems to show rubbing marks , could be the BS or the Finnish on the Lower or both , could be why its not functioning properly . The Maga may be made with different spec's  <dontknow>

 

  You got it going & that's all that matters . Its why there are Gun Smiths out there , this is what they do . This is why the 308AR builds are said to be so different & challenging , it not cut & dry , with MilSpec , all the same spec parts of an AR 15 build , you have to have a little Gun Smith in you when using the wide range of 308AR components .

 

The rubbing on the DPMS stop was the result of holding it up to max height by hand and operating the bolt, if you are seeing the marks on the upper corner.  The stop from Mega is a bit taller, and longer.  So it extends further to the right into the bolt stop slot, making it reach a bit higher on the bolt when extended.  Different geometry, and it really works perfectly.

 

Head space was OK per both Rainier and Mega on the Ares bolt, so I assume the gunsmith had a bad gauge, or did something wrong.  The Ares bolt worked better with the different rings on it, but the gun would not fire, and only made a teeny dent in one of three primers.  Could be the coating, or just something in the bolt or carrier out of spec, or maybe the Ares setup doesn't feel at home in my A-P upper.  Not sure.  What I do know is that with the Rubber City Armory bolt and carrier, it performed perfectly.  I smiled so hard I damn near took the wrinkles out of my face!

 

I will get back to Ares on this, just because I should.  Will likely sell that BCG, but not until it's fixed, or at least with a full disclosure advice to the eventual purchaser.