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Everything posted by 98Z5V

  1. Hornady loads it as the Hornady BLACK .223 75gr HPBT loaded ammo. https://www.hornady.com/ammunition/rifle/223-remington-75-gr-bthp-match-black#!/ Hornady also runs it in the Match line, product number 8026. Looks like this: Black Hills Ammunition loads a Sierra 77gr MatchKing as their Red Box .223 ammo - it's identical to military issued Mk262 ammo. Here's what you'd look for: ^^^^^^ That's just civilian packaged Mk262. They also actually sell Mk262 direct to civilians now, as well: http://www.black-hills.com/product-category/mk-262-mod-1-c-mil-pack/\ I doubt you'll ever find it in a store, on a shelf, but you can order it. Comes in 460-round ammo cans. The ammo I listed above will shoot well through that gun you have. You might be able to make a better handload, but you won't find anything from a manufacturer that will work as well as anything I listed above. The only thing different about the Black Hills Red Box and the Mk262 packaged ammo - is the testing (and lot number records) of the Mk262 ammo. It's got a very high accuracy standard for testing, whereas the just load it up and package it, for the Red Box. I've used this stuff, too, and it works well:
  2. ^^^ Right there. The heavier, the better, in that range given.
  3. TT sells the pouches separate. Hit them up: https://tacticaltailor.com/ Here's a direct link to the pouch: https://tacticaltailor.com/fight-light-saw-pouch/
  4. 6, per SAW pouch. That one pouch is dedicated to my Kestrel and range finder, though. So, 6 on the rig, plus the one in the gun - if you don't need that second SAW pouch for anything, then you can roll 12 in the pouches, and the 13th one in the gun. This is my "universal" Long Range chest rig - everything in it that I need to shoot distance. All I do to change it up is decide what I'm shooting that day, and load the appropriate mags in that one pouch.
  5. Tactical Tailor MAV 1 chest rig, I use the SAW-drum pouches for mag containment. I have a couple MAV 2 rigs, that split in the middle, and fastex-buckle, and they'd work just as well. For some reason, I always come back to the MAV 1 rig, that you put on like your tactical bra... The SAW pouch on MY right holds my Kestrel and laser range finder, the SAW pouch on MY left holds the mags.
  6. I don't know if you guys that came out in the Fall remember Nick, the guy that works at POF. His 7 PRC is gonna get that Mile target, we'll make sure of it. That gun can do it, but it just didn't happen that day we were going after it. Sometime over the summer, we'll make that shot.
  7. I will certainly agree with you on that one, brother - With only 2 x .300 Win Mag rifles hitting the Mile out here, and outside of a .50 Barrett - your gun is literally the only other gun that's hit that target. In all this time doing this shot, there's only 4 different guns that have connected. My Win Mag, @JBMatt's Win Mag, @sketch's Barrett M99, and your 6.5x284... That's it. Be pretty fucking proud of that gun, and yourself, brother, you did it right.
  8. The movie on it is pretty badass, too. The movie is "The Outpost." The most impressive thing about that battle were the men - there were TWO Congressional Medals of Honor for that, both living. Which is unheard of. Those dudes went through some shiit. Here's the movie trailer, and it's a badass movie to watch.
  9. You'll notice a pattern with me. It's Bryan Litz. I trust him. The books, first. Unreal information. Applied Ballistics software, and Applied Ballistics information. I bought the Kestrel wind meter that was loaded with the Applied Ballistics software. The book, by itself. I use JBM Ballistics for calculating all my dope charts - he's involved in that, heavily. The engines in the JBM Ballistics rely on the Bryan Litz data... When you select certain projectiles in the beginning, if you select the "Litz profile" for your projectile, your chart and calculations will just be a "little more accurate..." I'm just sayin'... https://jbmballistics.com/ballistics/calculators/calculators.shtml Just use the "Simplified Trajectory" calculator for most of your stuff - it's more than sufficient. The descriptions of the other calculators are listed right there, and you can play around with them and find what suits you best. The big thing is projectile selection - look for this, if it's available for your projectile... It's the first thing you can select, when you get into the calculator - "Library" - that's your projectile selection. You want to find one of these, if it's available for your projectile: Here's my example, during projectile selection - my 75gr Hornady HPBT magic projectile. These NEED to run north of 2750fps from an 18" barrel, for the magic to happen with the projectile (my magic handload is 2789.75fps, averaged over a 30-shot string, 18" barrel). Well, there's a "standard profile" to select, and there's a "Litz profile" to select - if it's available, you ALWAYS want to select the "Litz" entry - it's a different drag factor, that Bryan Litz put the time into, to develop for that projectile. It's not a G1 drag factor, it's not a G7 drag factor... It's the custom Bryan Litz drag factor for that projectile, and it's more accurate in the JBM Ballistics software, for developing a Dope Chart for your gun. This is why my Mk12 Mod 1 is what it is. Math... (click it - it gets bigger... That's what she said...) Weaponize Math, brothers. It's all out there. Make your gun more accurate, by using Math. It's too easy, and it's all out there. I'll guide you along the way to making a better gun.
  10. These dope charts are forever part of my Long Range Chest Rig... Every precision-type gun I have has a Dope Chart for it, and it's in that front chest pouch on the Rig. Easy to get to, if I need it.
  11. My Kestrel wind meter blue-tooths to my laser range finder. The Kestrel is loaded with Applied Ballistics software, for firing solutions. If I load my gun data and load data into the Kestrel, I lase the target with the range finder, and the Kestrel immediately gets the data, tells me the dial that I need to make the shot - right on the screen of the Kestrel. I don't use it to shoot targets. I only use it to proof my Dope Charts, at distance. I hardly ever use the thing, like it's intended to be used. It's one HELL of a powerful tool, combined together with the two devices. The Dope Charts are where it's at, when the batteries die, and you have no more power. Same with all this technology shiit. Look at Land Navigation. GPS. Millions of motherfuckers are Land Nav heroes. Until their batteries die. Can they use a compass, protractor (with a string), and a map? Do they know how to covert the numbers on that map to Lat/Longs with a 30cm ruler? Yeah, probably not. Can they look at terrain lines on a topo map, and "see" the terrain in front of them? Again, probably not. Same here. When the batteries die, can you shoot the gun a long, long way out? No electronic aids? This right here is exactly why I do what I do, brother, teach what I teach. Learn it old-school, absorb it, repeat it, make it memory. Practice it, make it proficiency. Once it's at the proficiency level, you won't give two shiits about electronic aids. They're always there, to make the hunt shot a meat-bringer, when it needs to be done. But you won't need to rely on any of that shiit, in the long term. We'll run the Full-Meal-Deal this Fall. All the classes, all the way through. If you - and I mean YOU, Mike, want to do High Angle, we'll hike that big fuckin' hill and do some High Angle training. We'll run the classes - but going up that hill, and shooting it, makes it stick in your melon. Forever. That hill sucks ass, though, I'm telling you right now... After that, you won't even care if you have dead batteries in your stuff, at all. You won't even check them before you go out shooting - you'll do it all from your head, or simple calculations that are easy to perform in the field. No batteries required.
  12. As soon as someone else cold-bores the mile, and gets to within 3" of the very epicenter of that target, I'll give them my new coffee cup that someone made for me... Hasn't happened yet, though...
  13. I'm just the "Laymen's Terms" for explaining shiit like this. Dumb it down, for the masses, as much as you can. Army. You train people. You train some REALLY SMART people, and you have to train some REALLY DUMB FUCKERS, too. Part of the game - you have to be able to train ALL of them in a way that ALL of them get it. Make it funny, humorous, serious, non-chalant, whatever - whatever gets them to learn it all, and get proficient. THAT is the hard part - judging and figuring out the audience, and then helping them get it... It sucks, more than "it's fun!..." For real. I started hard - hard-headed. Learn this shiit on my own, took alot away from the US Army, and training. Spent alot of money on ammo, guns, shooting, range time. And then, it hit me... Eh (Canadian "EH!"), I cheated. Someone else wrote the book, so I bought it, and read it about 5 times cover-to-cover. I'm on the 6th time now, just because there's so much information to absorb. I'll never get it all, but I'm trying. Bryan Litz wrote the book, and it's the one to have, for external ballistics. Internal ballistics is reloading - that's equally important, to making accurate loads. Internal ballistics all happen inside the gun, and determine how accurate your load will be. External ballistics are all the factors that affect your projectile as soon as it leaves the barrel. Bryan Litz is the king of that. Here's the book to own, and try to absorb - it'll be a long process, trust me, an cost alot in ammo practicing... There are a couple other books I have that are wonderful teachers, and I'll list them in another post. THIS BOOK, though, is the one. It breaks everything down into real information, that can't be refuted. It's solid facts. Yeah, brother - one gun. YOUR gun. That's the only thing that matters. You need to know that thing inside and out, know that reticle, know that dial, know that projectile drop at distance - your dope chart need to be in your head, for hunting. At the very least, the MPBR - Maximum Point Blank Range - needs to be ingrained inside your brain pan, for hunting. Long Range hunting - different game. Long Range shooting - as well, different game. You'll never be able to memorize all that shiit. You have to trust your dope chart, and that thing better be accurate, as fuk. Again, garbage in/garbage out, when you're developing it. You trash a number going in, then the whole dope chart is worthless, and even more worthless the longer distance you decide to shoot... Having a printed dope chart on your person is the best defense, when the batteries die in all the fancy gadgets. Hardest job in the world, kid you not - Me, observing targets, and spotting for @Matt.Cross... I'm serious... I'm all about Mils, and HE is the world's worst MOA-Whore for scopes. When I'm spotting for him, it's like triple duty - I need to watch his shot, I need to observe his shot in my Mil scope, THEN, I have to convert that shiit on the fly and give him a correction in MOA... QUICK, TOO!!! HE AIN'T WAITING AROUND FOR A CALCULATOR!!! It's rough, and I should be awarded a medal just for taking up the task. I round it up, I won't lie, and I hate rounding these numbers. I see him 2 mils off (2 x 3.4377) - Fuk that. That's 3.5, right then. Matt, your 7 MOA off... Ish...
  14. Vic had ALOT of spit flyin' in that one!
  15. Yep. There's enough total adjustment in the front sight to account for it. Fr adjustable front and rear sights, remember this acronym: FORS. Front Opposite, Rear Same. you adjust the sights for the way you want the observed impacts to go. If you're shooting, and it's impacting 3" exactly left of the bullseye, then you need to move it right. Rear Same. Move the rear sight right, to move the impacts right. If you're shooting 3" directly high above the bullseye, then you want to move the impacts down. Front Opposite - you'd adjust the front sight UP, to move the impacts down. Remember FORS, and you can't go wrong.
  16. FWIW, since I brought up the mile... You don't chase impacts at that distance. You better have a 1 MOA gun, and you need to be a 1 MOA shooter. You run your gun. You know your gun, you better know your dope, and you just dial your gun, and you run it. My .300 Win Mag is my Mile Gun. I dial that thing to 16.9 mils, and shoot. If it doesn't hit it, then it's pretty damn close, and I didn't quite get the wind call that shot. I've cold-bored that fucker ONCE. Perfect elevation, 3" to the left of center, of the very center of the target. I've second-shot hit it twice. First round, nope, 2nd - yep, impact. Dial it 16.9 mils every single time - that's what it does, where it needs to be, for that shot distance. You have to know your gun, your dope, your scope, and your dial-for-distance - and it all has to be accurate information. There's no room for "garbage-in/garbage-out" for that stuff - it needs to be dialed, as far as you can dial it. "Left impact, 1/2 target wide!" is your spotter's call. You better not adjust 1/2 target right, based on that, or you might go 2 targets right, if you do... One MOA gun, One MOA dude shooting - that's a sweet setup!!! Not even a One MOA target wide that you're shooting at in the first place... know your dope, know your scope, know your dial, shoot your gun. You hold the same exact thing to that last call of "Left impact, 1/2 target wide!" - run the exact same shot - same exact hold, same shot, same felt recoil through the gun, and same exact "target snapshot" in your scope when the trigger broke... Left first time, right this time. Run your gun. Run your dope. At that range, even reading the wind - the wind changes, indiscriminately, over that kind of distance. There's 2 things that you can do to mitigate that wind, over that kind of distance, shot-to-shot... Jack, and Shiit... Run your gun. You better know your gun...
  17. There's some flaws in the MOA calculations in that article. Can be major ones, depending on how far you shoot. They didn't fuk the Mils up too bad (actually nailed it, 3.6" is one Mil at 100 yards), but I don't like how they just rounded up all the MOA stuff. If you shoot distance, don't round it up until the very end - you definitely don't round it up at the beginning, because that just fuks you down the line. Examples - MOA = 1.04" MOA actually is 1.047" at 100 yards. Run that one out long, and see how it does. Their calculation of .96 for one of their math problems. Well, it's actually .955, in the equation that they're running. Run that one out long, too. Here's what I teach - inches of target - we shoot IPSC plates out here, to train range estimation, target aquisition, and target engagement. IPSC targets are 18" wide. So are deer, belly to back, so are coyotes and average pigs, hoof/foot to top of back, so are deer, wide, when head on... 18". So, if you know that, going into it, for AVERAGE animals... then, teach that number. Here's the two formulas, and where the issues in that article come to life - and it's more important on MOA, because one Mil = 3.4377 MOA... The numbers for MOA are 3.4377 bigger than a mil. That's more refinement, and more reason to be more accurate in the calculations. One Mil is 3.6" at 100 yards. 1/10 Mil clicks is 0.36" per click. 3 clicks is roughly 1" @ 100 yards. Got it. One MOA is 1.047" at 100 yards. quarter clicks on most scopes, 1/4" per click. Got that, too. Here's the deal, for range estimation, both Mils and MOA, and the real numbers, that won't fuk you down the line, at longer ranges. INCHES of TARGET (You need to know what you're shooting at, especially hunting)... Inches of target DIVIDED BY observed Mils or MOA, TIMES the CONSTANT = YARDS to target. Here's the constants... The MIL constant is 27.778 (NOT 27.8, like you might find out there). The MOA constant is 95.5 (not the 96 factor in that article). 18" target width, observed by you, covers ONE MIL in your scope gradients. TIMES 27.778 = YARDS to target. Run it. 18" / 1 x 27.778 = 500.004 yards to target. Let's run the MOA on that one. One Mil = 3.4377 MOA. Given. 18" target, covers 3.4377 MOA in your crosshairs and scope gradients, so 18" DIVIDED BY observed MOA (3.4377) TIMES 95.5 = YARDS to target. Looks like this: 18"/3.4377 = 5.2360598. TIMES 95.5 = 500.04362 YARDS to target... That's the same damn shot, through both scopes, looking at the same target, buried in the ground by t-posts, and swinging off the same chains to the target. Or, on the hoof. FDE-colored critter, probably, if we're in North America. Deer, most squirrels, most rabbits, 1/2 the bear here - All FDE. Now, measure 1 Mil through a scope, and then try to MEASURE 3.4377 MOA through an MOA scope. Good luck on that one. If your eyeball is THAT calibrated, I want to drink at the campfire with YOU, COWBOY!... Weird, how math works. Weird, how math won't work right, when you round it all early, and fuk up all your constants, going in, from the beginning. For Mil shooters, I might be 1/10 or 2/10 off. For MOA shooters, supposedly the more accurate system as claimed by many MOA shooters, you might be WAY off and miss, if you're using that 96 claimed in that article, or that 1.04" claimed in that article. Don't run their numbers for some long distance. I have formulas out the ass on this stuff. Yards, meters, inches observed, yards observed, meters observed, centimeters observed, whatever. There's a formula for all of them. But, it's all garbage in/garbage out, if you start rounding all those numbers early in the formulas. Here's some MOA math... If it's really 1/4" per click, 4 clicks per MOA. IF one inch is one MOA at 100 yards - when it's really 1.047" at 100 yards. Quick math - I have a target that's 18" wide, and I place it at 1760 yards (common for us, and it's exactly what we shoot at one mile). So, 18" wide target at 1760 yards - that's bigger than one MOA, right? Nope, it's not one MOA wide. One MOA at a mile is 18.4272"... That 18" wide target is not even one MOA at a mile. And that's some hard shiit to pull off, whack a sub-MOA target at a mile... Math matters. Accurate math matters even more. Weaponize math, gents.
  18. ^^^ My preferred home defense tool. Also, not a "firearm" per BATFE's direct definition, in writing. I put a light and red dot on mine. Here's the direct link to the BATFE Determination Letter on the device: https://xproducts.com/content/Final-Approval-BATF-Can-Cannon.pdf Here's the best parts of it:
  19. Nope, it's too short, in length. Well, you could mount it, it's just picatinny rail. But the Large Frame receiver is longer, and it would look quite odd.
  20. 98Z5V


    Both of you... Nasty...
  21. Yes, easily. Done it on mine.
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