what is the differance??

[6132expert]

OK guys I am back at, but not with the 308 build. I have started a new build on one of my multi cal lowers. What can yall tell me? I am wanting to know the difference in a .300 ACC Black out and a .300 Fireball? I have already ordered everything with the exception of my barrel,gas block, BCG, and sights from Brownells. I am torn between a .300 and a 7.62x39. Help me decide, and give me some reasons.

Thanks

Tom

[survivalshop]

The 300BLK & 300 Fireball are basically the same except that the 300BLK 's chamber is a has a little more free bore to the rifling of the barrel '

Its like a .223 vs a 5.56 the 300BLK being like the 5.56 having a little more it bullet jump to the rifling . I think they did it to host a wider variety of bullet designs .

The 300BLK is 7.62 x 35 so it is close to the 7.62x39 ,but the real difference is not in performance ,its the ability to use the M16/ar15 bolt with no alterations .The 7.62x39 bolt face has to be opened up to use it in an AR & they have not been too successful in operation because of the weakened locking lugs .

We have several builds going on in the Rifle section here & you can read up on my load testing & I even have some info in the reloading section.

[6132expert]

So what you are saying is the 300 BLK can handle the higher pressure than the 300 fireball. If that is the case That is the one I will be useing.

[survivalshop]

So what you are saying is the 300 BLK can handle the higher pressure than the 300 fireball. If that is the case That is the one I will be useing.

I wouldn't say it will take a higher pressure . They are basically the same case , with very little difference .

[6132expert]

So from what I have read here is that the .300 black out does use a .308 bullet.

Is this right?

If so it is the ideal build. I do not reload now but I do plan on starting reloading in the future. If it is a 308 bullet then that would save a lot of variants in surplus. I have to finish my dpms build and this new build then I am going to start looking at reloading. I only shoot from time to time, but I would like to have a few 1000 rounds for each rifle. Really I am building these rifles cause I really feel that one day these rifles will not be sold whole or by parts and my kids will need them after I am dead and gone.

[6132expert]

OK, after a lot of reading in here I am going ahead with my .300 Black Out build. Is there any fatory loads out there yet? I have never done any loading myself o that would be interesting! I may be asking many questions about loading before long.

[6132expert]

The following companies are making 300 AAC BLACKOUT products:

AAC - uppers, rifles, silencers, and ammunition.

Adams Arms - rifles and uppers.

AR15 Performance - barrels.

Atlanta Arms - ammo.

Barnes Bullets - bullets.

Black Hole Weaponry - barrels.

Brad's Warehouse - converted brass.

Bushmaster Firearms - uppers and rifles.

BWE Firearms - rifles, uppers, and suppressors.

CMMG - barrels.

Compass Lake Engineering - AR barrels.

Delta Company Arms - rifles, barrels, uppers.

Dillon Precision - reloading conversion kits.

DPMS - rifles and uppers.

Forster - reloading dies.

Lee - reloading dies.

Lewis Machine and Tool - barrels, uppers, rifles.

Loki Weapon Systems - uppers/rifles.

Lone Star Armory - 300 AAC BLACKOUT marked lowers.

Lothar Walther - barrels.

Match Grade Machine - Thompson barrels.

McGowen Barrel - Savage and other barrels.

Noveske - rifles and uppers.

Pac-Nor - barrels.

Pacific Tool and Gauge - reamers and gauges.

Primary Weapons Systems - rifles and uppers.

Raven Armament Company - ammo and uppers.

Remington - ammunition.

Satern Custom Machining, Inc. - barrels.

Selph Arms LLC - barrels, uppers, re-chambering, and rifles.

SI Defense - barrels.

Sierra - bullets.

SilencerCo - silencers.

Southern Ballistic Research - ammo.

Surefire - 300 BLK sound suppressor.

Spike's Tactical - uppers and rifles.

The Bullet Works - bullets and ammunition.

Triton Arms - AR barrels.

Umlaut Industries - 300 BLK caliber marked Rifles, Upper and Lowers. 16" and 10" Factory Title II.

White Oak Precision - AR barrels.

Wilson Combat - rifles, hunting and self defense ammunition

[98Z5V]

I was going to add, in reference to the 7.62x39 hardware - if you ever planned on versatility among other weapons that you have (other .308s), then don't go with the Russian caliber.  That bullet is a .311 caliber bullet.  Nothing else you have, reloading included is going to work.

[survivalshop]

If you are not a reloader , I would wait till factory ammo is more readily more available. Which they say is this year some time .

Who knows with Remington ,but other manufacturers are also interested in the Caliber.

[6132expert]

What do you mean " Wait ".........LOL I want t have fun to , and I dont mind buying ammo. It will give me some spent brass anyways.

[Dusty44]

Maybe you need to do some reloading for your existing rifles before you buy more parts.  It will give you perspective.  There are probably thousands of calibers in all kinds of bullet designs,  case shapes,  case lengths.  If you are really looking toward the future,  the calibers that will be available are going to be the NATO and Russian standards.  Start with those.

Buy a Lee Loader.  Cheap,  makes serious quality ammo with no unnecessary support equipment.  Buy a Lee beam scale for measuring powder and a rubber/plastic hammer,  an electronic caliper.  Lee makes a  small "nutcracker" press to back up the "Loader."  Sierra and Lyman loading manuals to start.  Look at load data from sites on the web but never trust them.  Buy some 'How To'  manuals and read them thoroughly.

I load some and buy some.  FMJ is forbidden on every range I know about.  Not a factor if you shoot on private land,  but needs be kept in mind.  I buy guns chambered for common calibers:  308 Win which will also shoot 7.62 NATO,  but not the other way around.  Lots of data and powders and other components and equipment for this one. 

223 ammo is available easily in soft point and hollow point,  I do not own a rifle chambered for this caliber.

Next personal favorite is 44 Rem Mag:  I shoot a lever gun and a revolver but factory ammo is often difficult to find and there is really nothing for my lever gun.  Components can be difficult to find and are expensive.  The lever gun is very picky about what goes through the tube.  This kind of problem will appear in a lot of guns and calibers.  I find that reloading is essential for this one rifle and load data is not really available for the components that work best.  It is an uncomfortable situation.

If you want heavier calibers try 300 RM or even one of the .416 offerings.  The "right" .416 might not yet be apparent.  The original was the Rigby but apparently Jefferys created a cartridge that works as well or better and is a lot more common in places where this kind of firepower is really necessary (Professional African big game hunters).  Our military is using 300 RM.  What are you going to shoot?  Or maybe you are thinking of long-range competition?  You need a lot of basic shooting practice first.

My own tendencies are moving more toward something like the 22-250 because apparently there are a lot of rifles chambered for it in North America and ammo is available along with reloading support.  Still checking on all that before I spend money.

If you want to try an exercise in frustration and personal education,  buy a Ruger 10-22 carbine.  Mine will shoot under an inch at 50 yards.  Factory stock,  Wal Mart bubble pak scope,  much less than $100 in bits and pieces added.  Maybe even including that scope:  I forget,  it has been a couple of years. 

The gun gurus say that it does not matter what you shoot,  the skills are the same and the 22 Long Rifle cartridge is one of the lowest priced.  My personal shooting skills benefitted greatly from a few years and and several hundred rounds of 50 cal Black Powder:  a Thompson/Center Hawken.  Maybe a quality In-Line BP would be better now for use with BP substitutes.  I really do not know.  But every load is a "handload!"

An excellent (IMO) shooting trainer and accuracy improver is a small cheap water pistol.  100% safe right up front.  Teach your hand(s) to hold it easily and to pull that 'trigger' plunger straight so the little gun stays straight and on-target.  Amazing how much that can help any shooting you do! 

I shoot 9 MM and 45 ACP because they are common calibers and are available.  So is the 38 Special and 357 Mag for my revolvers (other than the 44 RM).  Some pistol ammo is touted but a (very good)  gun shop laughed and said they had never even actually seen a box of "that caliber" ammo once,  when asked.  Think about it.

One of my bolt rifles is in 7 MM RM.  Factory ammo is frightfully expensive and often difficult to find.  I could not shoot it as often as I want without reloading,  and I do not shoot it often even so but usually concentrate on other rifles and calibers.

I know you are wondering where I live that I cannot find this stuff.  The answer is a remote part of the universe called,  in the local vernacular at least,  North Texas.  I do my gun and ammo shopping at places like CheaperThanDirt,  Ft Worth & McKinney;  Cabella's Ft Worth;  two local small but excellent gun shops;  mail order from MidwayUSA,  Brownell's,  The Sportsman's Guide.  Sometimes mail order from other places or go to one of the local gun shows.

The bottom line is of course to do your own serious research,  do a lot of thinking and some soul searching,  and make yourself happy.

[6132expert]

Thanks for the post and I am doing exactly what makes me happy. I am not to worried about reloading right now. Like I said in the future I will probably be doing this. I just want to get through the 2 builds I now have started. I have plenty of rifles , shot guns , and handguns to shot if I get that board. I also have a 10-22 with no scope and can pop a Rabbit at 50 yds running all day long.  Again with my RR 556 I can hit .50 MOA at a Hundred yds with factory iron sites. I have done a lot of shooting on my time and the Marine Corps time, I will look into the different reload machines and I will do a hole lot of reading before I start. I will also be doing a lot of questioning about the same subject. Its not something I fully understand but it also not anything I cant do. Matter of fact the only thing so far in life I cant do is advance calculaest.

[survivalshop]

What I meant for wait is that there is no factory ammo for the 300BLK on store shelves. The only way to have some is to roll your own .

You have to cut down 5.56 /.223 brass & form it to the 300BLK brass.

If you have any questions about loading for the 300BLK or others , go to the reloading section ,if you haven't already &some of your question may already been answered & I already started one on reloading for the 300BLK.

[6132expert]

I hear ya man. I can gety it in bulk I guess the 220 grain from remington and that would at least give me some shooting and spent brass so I would have to star out right away cutting down the 556 brass.

[survivalshop]

The cutting down of 5.56 brass is kinda easy & gives you good brass to start out with ,just not labled right on the case , but you won't mix it or chamber it in an 5.56 rifle .

I have the Foster die set for 300BLK & they are a nice set . Forms the 5.56/.223 bras perfectly .

If you can get ammo , you got it made.

[6132expert]

So give me a recomennded list of what to start with. I have nothing and would need everything to do 308,556,and the 300 for starters then I would move on the my other rifles and handguns. I also would like to get a shotgun loader in the future.

[survivalshop]

I believe any one starting out reloading should start with a single stage press & you can get the kits that have everything with them except for die sets ,powder,primers, bullets & brass.

Check the reloading section ,there are threads about what people like & use & why.