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Dusty44

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About Dusty44

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  1. My grandson attends an Independent School District which partly overlaps into the City of Dallas, TX. The middle school building he attended is located within Dallas and has a Dallas Police Officer on duty at the school all day. The Officer stays outside when the children are arriving in the mornings and then has an office where he can observe the office, entrance, main halls. This is a duty assignment, full equipment. So far as I know, this is done at many or a majority of the Dallas schools. There is no violence among the kids and the drop-off and pick-up lines of cars keep their cool. Everybody wins.
  2. Aluminum gas block is subject to more erosion in the gas passages. Steel is much better. Not my idea; got it from somewhere that I would trust and put it into my internal data bank. Buy steel. Clamp and set screw are '6 of one. . .' situation. Pros and cons. However. I like that the set screw type is a solid ring. The clamp splits open and depends on the bolt(s) at the open side. I have a 10-22 where the OEM barrel band failed mostly because of the split and the forces of the bolt pulling the halves together. The set screws will pull the ports together, make an adequate seal. Not to be concerned. I found that the price seems to be mostly a matter of where the item is on the online catalog listing. The top of the list is most expensive. I saved a lot of money just by scrolling down a few pages, found good brands at good prices.
  3. Dusty44

    Suggestions?

    I like the DPMS FF tubes on my rifles (308 & 5.56) because they are smooth. Maybe not the lightest possible, but just aluminum tubes. Close to minimum weight. Also, slotted for air flow cooling and buying the maximum length provides options for grip.
  4. Please place my Avatar in this forum? I am not sure how big it will be. I will adjust as needed?
  5. I bought a Rainier barrel a couple of months ago; an 18 inch White Oak match SS barrel in .223 Wylde. All I can say is that when I looked down the tube from each end the surface of the lands and the surface of the chamber and all that I could see looked mirror shiny. The outside surface is sand-blast matte except the gas block seating band which was so smooth and shiny it was difficult to look at.
  6. Dusty44

    Tritium

    Looked it up. Used to be that Radium was used in a paint. Mostly that is no more. Tritium is a radioactive isotope of hydrogen. It is a gas. It is put in a glass tube, high tech stuff, coated inside with phosphorus material. The electrons/radioactivity of the Tritium makes the phosphors glow. Short half-life; working life of the glow tube is 5 to 20 years depending on how much Tritium is used in that specific tube. It is all tightly controlled by the gubment as an atomic substance because Tritium is also used to make atomic bombs. Do the search engine & Wikipedia. It is short and interesting.
  7. Dusty44

    Tritium

    Tritium itself, I think, is a radioactive element. As used on gun sights and other things that need to glow, like wristwatch markings for night use, the Tritium is mixed into a paint or coating that contains phosphorus compounds. The radioactivity causes the phosphorus to glow. The dots on the gunsights are drops of this paint. The radioactivity is very low-level and has a half-life of only a few years. Check Wikipedia for something more accurate and definitive.
  8. Dusty44

    It Begins!

    I would be nervous about bullet weights much over 190. Pressures might get too high for this caliber/case or there will not be enough room for enough powder to reach reasonable velocities, or both. Not enough case volume. I wanted to play with 180 to 190 gr pills until I got shut down by no place to shoot. The advice I found was that for more than much over 190 and anything over 200, bigger cases like the 30 cal magnums would be the only way to go. Some of the things I read about hunting in Africa make me think that the very best long-range retained-energy round might be the 416 Rigby. The 416 Rigby case is very long; one of the new 416's would be better because they apparently will work with 30-06 length actions. The 416 Ruger is intended to match the ballistics of the original Rigby that was loaded with cordite. The 416 is smaller in diameter than the African 500's; better sectional density and some other good ballistic characteristics. Shooters who have tried it say the 416, while intended to stop charging Cape Buffalo and Elephant at ranges of 25 yards, is good way-out-there, too. One hunter reported using his 416 Rigby to take Dik-Dik for camp meat. Using a cannon on a house cat seems very counter-intuitive but the bullets passed through the little antelope, killed cleanly. The bullet behaved well, left a big hole, no damage to meat. The bullet never realized anything was in the way. This hunter said he was collecting camp meat this way at ranges that would have been difficult for the usual small-caliber rifles that are used for the purpose. The 416 Rigby was much more accurate at those distances, also. We will not mention the recoil of this thing. I personally can only wonder about the differences in felt recoil of being in the way of the back-end of 400 to 450 grains or more launched at high velocities with the aid of smokeless powders versus a standard bullet of similar weight launched with the assistance of 90 grains of black powder from perhaps a 45-90? I did read a comment in a gun rag that a contributing author had owned and fired a 45-90 and regarded the 45-70 Govt. as being kind and easy-shooting by comparison.
  9. If anyone uses a Limbsaver or equivalent brand butt pad on an AR, remember that the top mounting screw that goes into the buffer tube end is vented. It is necessary to drill the hole in the pad base plate so the original screw can be used. I used a 5/16 Forstner bit to enlarge the hole in the foam (just the foam) to allow the buffer tube to breathe; and a 1/4 Forstner bit in the bottom mounting hole for easier access with the other screw. Holes in the plastic plate should, of course, be as close-tolerance clearance holes as can easily be managed. I used a 1 inch (if I remember correctly) wood bit to shave about half the thickness of the Limbsaver base plate on the side facing the rifle so the plate would fit properly against the stock and over the end of the buffer tube. This is likely to vary depending on the design of your stock. I am aware of at least two Limbsaver pad base plate designs. It is just a matter of making it all fit and work.
  10. If its just recoil, a Limbsaver butt pad. I put one on my DPMS LR-308, zero felt recoil. I have a Remington 700 bolt gun in 7 MM Rem Mag (vintage 1975); could not tolerate the recoil (through a T-shirt). Put a Limbsaver on it and the recoil went away; almost all of it. Price is about $35 (last time I bought one); outside shape comes in 4 standard sizes (last time I checked) and a few hundred special shapes to match various brands of shotguns. Precious little difference in the shape of a gunstock where the wood/plastic meets a shoulder. My LR-308 needed some new screw holes through the foam pad and plastic baseplate. Also some shaving of the baseplate to fit on the buffer tube. Easy. It is not practical/possible to reshape the outside of the Limbsaver pad. It is usually possible to find a pad that fits acceptably. If possible, find a sporting goods store that stocks these and take just enough of the back end of your rifle to check the fit. Or make an outline of the butt interface on a sheet of paper and take that. In North Texas and other places/states where the chain has stores, try Academy. No promises.
  11. <lmao> I only want to ask if the microwave will work instead of the oven? <laughs> <munch> <lmao> <lmao>
  12. Try: "How to . . . " remove AR front sight----- in a browser search. Google does not like guns, I avoid using Google Chrome (I usually use IE) for these searches. Very good illustrated step-by-steps will appear. Brownells publishes text instructions, so do others; lots of YouTube videos of various qualities. Use this approach for each thing. It has worked well for me. If you get hung up, the members of this forum will do our best. Many instructions are for AR-15's. Parts for the AR-308 are just a little bigger. Like the diff under the front end of a 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton pickup. A set of pin punches and other small tools like a brass mallet and a plastic/rubber mallet are available at places like Sears, sometimes Wal-Mart, or Brownells online, other vendors. Be careful of price; many small tools are available at reasonable prices and at gold-plated prices. Unless you are a professional gunsmith, they all are about equal. 'Sets' of tools are very nice; maybe you just want the one or two sizes you need. You may never use more than one or two of things like a pin punch or screwdriver. If costs are important. I have saved much cash just by scrolling down in the online catalogs to the cheaper (and equal or better quality) items way down in the listings. If you replace a gas block, buy steel. Be sure the things you want to remove will fit over (slide off over) the muzzle device. And the new things will slide back over the muzzle device. Alternatively, a better (?)($$$ ?) barrel without a muzzle device is an option (my DPMS LR-308 has a recessed crown; no hardware or threading). Doing most of the things needed are not difficult. Driving out a roll pin is like hammering a nail --- straight. Hitting just hard enough to move the pin a little each time the hammer lands. Did I mention secure support for the rifle and parts being worked on? But that is in the 'How To's.' So is which side to drive the pins 'from' and 'to.' If it makes a diff.
  13. Pics "Attach." If you do not get the toolbar with your initial post or 'reply' box, use 'Preview.' You can resize and crop pics with the picture editor in you OS; MS 7 has a very good included picture editor. Or use Paint.net, a free download from the Internet to resize. Paint.net can also put text on the pic, if you want. I have a post somewhere in this forum or in our sister forum, Tactical22.net, detailing this but could not find it quickly? Sorry.
  14. You might want to consider buying some rails than can be bolted anywhere. Drill a few holes in the right places, instant rails. A swivel mount will work with some bipods, also, and can be put in place with a single hole in the FF tube. I have a factory DPMS LR-308 and really like the DPMS tube. I used two DPMS slotted FF tubes in the scaled-down size on a M-15 and a second M-15 upper I built. Makes the M-15 look like a little brother to the LR-308.
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