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Everything posted by Dusty44

  1. My grandson attends an Independent School District which partly overlaps into the City of Dallas, TX. The middle school building he attended is located within Dallas and has a Dallas Police Officer on duty at the school all day. The Officer stays outside when the children are arriving in the mornings and then has an office where he can observe the office, entrance, main halls. This is a duty assignment, full equipment. So far as I know, this is done at many or a majority of the Dallas schools. There is no violence among the kids and the drop-off and pick-up lines of cars keep their cool. Everybody wins.
  2. Aluminum gas block is subject to more erosion in the gas passages. Steel is much better. Not my idea; got it from somewhere that I would trust and put it into my internal data bank. Buy steel. Clamp and set screw are '6 of one. . .' situation. Pros and cons. However. I like that the set screw type is a solid ring. The clamp splits open and depends on the bolt(s) at the open side. I have a 10-22 where the OEM barrel band failed mostly because of the split and the forces of the bolt pulling the halves together. The set screws will pull the ports together, make an adequate seal. Not to be concerned. I found that the price seems to be mostly a matter of where the item is on the online catalog listing. The top of the list is most expensive. I saved a lot of money just by scrolling down a few pages, found good brands at good prices.
  3. I like the DPMS FF tubes on my rifles (308 & 5.56) because they are smooth. Maybe not the lightest possible, but just aluminum tubes. Close to minimum weight. Also, slotted for air flow cooling and buying the maximum length provides options for grip.
  4. Please place my Avatar in this forum? I am not sure how big it will be. I will adjust as needed?
  5. I bought a Rainier barrel a couple of months ago; an 18 inch White Oak match SS barrel in .223 Wylde. All I can say is that when I looked down the tube from each end the surface of the lands and the surface of the chamber and all that I could see looked mirror shiny. The outside surface is sand-blast matte except the gas block seating band which was so smooth and shiny it was difficult to look at.
  6. Looked it up. Used to be that Radium was used in a paint. Mostly that is no more. Tritium is a radioactive isotope of hydrogen. It is a gas. It is put in a glass tube, high tech stuff, coated inside with phosphorus material. The electrons/radioactivity of the Tritium makes the phosphors glow. Short half-life; working life of the glow tube is 5 to 20 years depending on how much Tritium is used in that specific tube. It is all tightly controlled by the gubment as an atomic substance because Tritium is also used to make atomic bombs. Do the search engine & Wikipedia. It is short and interesting.
  7. Tritium itself, I think, is a radioactive element. As used on gun sights and other things that need to glow, like wristwatch markings for night use, the Tritium is mixed into a paint or coating that contains phosphorus compounds. The radioactivity causes the phosphorus to glow. The dots on the gunsights are drops of this paint. The radioactivity is very low-level and has a half-life of only a few years. Check Wikipedia for something more accurate and definitive.
  8. I would be nervous about bullet weights much over 190. Pressures might get too high for this caliber/case or there will not be enough room for enough powder to reach reasonable velocities, or both. Not enough case volume. I wanted to play with 180 to 190 gr pills until I got shut down by no place to shoot. The advice I found was that for more than much over 190 and anything over 200, bigger cases like the 30 cal magnums would be the only way to go. Some of the things I read about hunting in Africa make me think that the very best long-range retained-energy round might be the 416 Rigby. The 416 Rigby case is very long; one of the new 416's would be better because they apparently will work with 30-06 length actions. The 416 Ruger is intended to match the ballistics of the original Rigby that was loaded with cordite. The 416 is smaller in diameter than the African 500's; better sectional density and some other good ballistic characteristics. Shooters who have tried it say the 416, while intended to stop charging Cape Buffalo and Elephant at ranges of 25 yards, is good way-out-there, too. One hunter reported using his 416 Rigby to take Dik-Dik for camp meat. Using a cannon on a house cat seems very counter-intuitive but the bullets passed through the little antelope, killed cleanly. The bullet behaved well, left a big hole, no damage to meat. The bullet never realized anything was in the way. This hunter said he was collecting camp meat this way at ranges that would have been difficult for the usual small-caliber rifles that are used for the purpose. The 416 Rigby was much more accurate at those distances, also. We will not mention the recoil of this thing. I personally can only wonder about the differences in felt recoil of being in the way of the back-end of 400 to 450 grains or more launched at high velocities with the aid of smokeless powders versus a standard bullet of similar weight launched with the assistance of 90 grains of black powder from perhaps a 45-90? I did read a comment in a gun rag that a contributing author had owned and fired a 45-90 and regarded the 45-70 Govt. as being kind and easy-shooting by comparison.
  9. If anyone uses a Limbsaver or equivalent brand butt pad on an AR, remember that the top mounting screw that goes into the buffer tube end is vented. It is necessary to drill the hole in the pad base plate so the original screw can be used. I used a 5/16 Forstner bit to enlarge the hole in the foam (just the foam) to allow the buffer tube to breathe; and a 1/4 Forstner bit in the bottom mounting hole for easier access with the other screw. Holes in the plastic plate should, of course, be as close-tolerance clearance holes as can easily be managed. I used a 1 inch (if I remember correctly) wood bit to shave about half the thickness of the Limbsaver base plate on the side facing the rifle so the plate would fit properly against the stock and over the end of the buffer tube. This is likely to vary depending on the design of your stock. I am aware of at least two Limbsaver pad base plate designs. It is just a matter of making it all fit and work.
  10. If its just recoil, a Limbsaver butt pad. I put one on my DPMS LR-308, zero felt recoil. I have a Remington 700 bolt gun in 7 MM Rem Mag (vintage 1975); could not tolerate the recoil (through a T-shirt). Put a Limbsaver on it and the recoil went away; almost all of it. Price is about $35 (last time I bought one); outside shape comes in 4 standard sizes (last time I checked) and a few hundred special shapes to match various brands of shotguns. Precious little difference in the shape of a gunstock where the wood/plastic meets a shoulder. My LR-308 needed some new screw holes through the foam pad and plastic baseplate. Also some shaving of the baseplate to fit on the buffer tube. Easy. It is not practical/possible to reshape the outside of the Limbsaver pad. It is usually possible to find a pad that fits acceptably. If possible, find a sporting goods store that stocks these and take just enough of the back end of your rifle to check the fit. Or make an outline of the butt interface on a sheet of paper and take that. In North Texas and other places/states where the chain has stores, try Academy. No promises.
  11. <lmao> I only want to ask if the microwave will work instead of the oven? <laughs> <munch> <lmao> <lmao>
  12. Try: "How to . . . " remove AR front sight----- in a browser search. Google does not like guns, I avoid using Google Chrome (I usually use IE) for these searches. Very good illustrated step-by-steps will appear. Brownells publishes text instructions, so do others; lots of YouTube videos of various qualities. Use this approach for each thing. It has worked well for me. If you get hung up, the members of this forum will do our best. Many instructions are for AR-15's. Parts for the AR-308 are just a little bigger. Like the diff under the front end of a 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton pickup. A set of pin punches and other small tools like a brass mallet and a plastic/rubber mallet are available at places like Sears, sometimes Wal-Mart, or Brownells online, other vendors. Be careful of price; many small tools are available at reasonable prices and at gold-plated prices. Unless you are a professional gunsmith, they all are about equal. 'Sets' of tools are very nice; maybe you just want the one or two sizes you need. You may never use more than one or two of things like a pin punch or screwdriver. If costs are important. I have saved much cash just by scrolling down in the online catalogs to the cheaper (and equal or better quality) items way down in the listings. If you replace a gas block, buy steel. Be sure the things you want to remove will fit over (slide off over) the muzzle device. And the new things will slide back over the muzzle device. Alternatively, a better (?)($$$ ?) barrel without a muzzle device is an option (my DPMS LR-308 has a recessed crown; no hardware or threading). Doing most of the things needed are not difficult. Driving out a roll pin is like hammering a nail --- straight. Hitting just hard enough to move the pin a little each time the hammer lands. Did I mention secure support for the rifle and parts being worked on? But that is in the 'How To's.' So is which side to drive the pins 'from' and 'to.' If it makes a diff.
  13. Pics "Attach." If you do not get the toolbar with your initial post or 'reply' box, use 'Preview.' You can resize and crop pics with the picture editor in you OS; MS 7 has a very good included picture editor. Or use Paint.net, a free download from the Internet to resize. Paint.net can also put text on the pic, if you want. I have a post somewhere in this forum or in our sister forum, Tactical22.net, detailing this but could not find it quickly? Sorry.
  14. You might want to consider buying some rails than can be bolted anywhere. Drill a few holes in the right places, instant rails. A swivel mount will work with some bipods, also, and can be put in place with a single hole in the FF tube. I have a factory DPMS LR-308 and really like the DPMS tube. I used two DPMS slotted FF tubes in the scaled-down size on a M-15 and a second M-15 upper I built. Makes the M-15 look like a little brother to the LR-308.
  15. Somewhere in central south Texas there is a service that does night hunting of pigs. Basically, show up with your reservation and a Texas Hunting License. Everything else is provided. Especially the guns. Leave yours at home. The guns, if I remember correctly, are 308 AR's. Sights are full-scale night vision stuff. All on the ground; no limits on pigs. It seems like wild porkers have spread and been spread everywhere. After a real SHTF, if there ever really is one, wild porkers may be a prime sustenance all across North America for survivors. Coyotes and eventually wolves will be the major threat to surviving humans, maybe eventually the major threat to people even without a SHTF. Human children and oldsters are a major delicacy to such predators, if the opportunity arises. And if other food gets scarce. Cases of coyote attacks are not mentioned much in the press. Coyote-dog crosses are not very common but are very dangerous. Try reading "Predator Xtreme" magazine. Year-round hunting for those interested. Wild porkers and coyotes mostly; makes me wonder how long before it is dangerous to go outdoors (like leave the house and go to your car in the driveway?) because of the threat from wild porkers and coyotes (and in some places, wolves) in the neighborhood. I am resident in the middle of a suburb in the middle of a major mid-western city. Guns are frowned upon and discharge of a weapon is a major violation of law. (Found a comment by another of our brethern who mentioned how common gunshots at night were in an eastern seaboard city in a state that is very unfriendly toward any kind of weapon, let alone guns, unimaginable. In my officially gun-friendly part of the world a gun-shot will have the area swarming with police almost instantly until the perp is found and taken into custody.) There are resident raccoons, Opossums, coyotes, other wild creatures, everywhere here within the human occupied terrain. Wild pigs are present in some of the fringe areas and are already a problem. Skunks have been significantly reduced in numbers and presence by 'Animal Control' police units and live traps. Put the trash out for collection after sunrise and be sure to add a tablespoon of ammonia on top of the trash. Cedar Posts quotes his friend Percy Craven (Cedar Posts And Barbed Wire Fences, blog, scroll down or find "Hunting With Percy Craven") as saying the only thing that tastes worse than squirrel is Opossum. I have no idea. Anyone? Also, I was inadvisably running my mouth in public not too long ago about hunting coyotes. A sweet little girl who did not look any different from most other average Americans turned to me and her mouth was watering about maybe eating coyotes? She had eaten dog routinely as a child wherever she came from; coyote sounded delicious. Recipes?
  16. My DPMS LR-308, factory rifle, vintage spring 2010, magwell measures 2.955 on the bottom and maybe 2.947+ on the top. I also got 2.953 and some other measurements in that ballpark on the top. Things keep moving. PMags and factory steel mags fit with just enough clearances for easy extraction; lock solidly in place. What little wiggle there is seems to be a pivot around the retaining lug. This is with the upper and lower separated. With the rifle assembled and an empty PMag inserted, pushing against the mag, the spring tension in the mag pressing against the follower can be felt as the mag body moves relative to the follower which is pressed against the BCG. Movement is very slight.
  17. I have a DPMS LR-308 with the long, fluted, SS barrel. No muzzle device, no threading at the muzzle. Factory rifle with small mods (trigger, grip, safety selector), described and pictured elsewhere in this forum. I put a Limbsaver butt pad on it, needed to mod the pad a little. There is effectively no felt recoil. I do not know about muzzle flash. I do not shoot at night. My AR-15's have muzzle threading. I use the A2 flash suppressors: they are cheap; they suppress the flash and do some muzzle-rise limiting. They protect the muzzle crown. I bought the A2's to save money. A flash suppressor feeds air (oxygen) into the stream of hot gas and burns the combustibles like a bunsen burner. The flame is soft blue or not visible instead of looking like a napalm bomb explosion. The paper targets and game animals do not care either way. In my case, only paper targets. My AR-15's (two uppers, one lower) do not generate enough recoil for me to notice. Even when I try. (Extensive discussion of my AR-15's in several threads in our sister forum, Tactical22.net.) When I shoot, necessarily only at a public shooting range, I wear reusable ear plugs that I put in my ears before leaving my car. On the range & firing line (outdoor) I wear big ear muff protectors over ears and inserted ear plugs. It really does not matter much how loud or quiet your gun or guns may be: all the other guns will harm your hearing without help. A muzzle device that blasts shooters in adjacent lanes may get you asked to not shoot that gun or asked to not shoot at that facility again at all. Where I shoot, courtesy and consideration tag along right behind safety.
  18. In 'Nam (Bien Hoa AB), most of us could tell the diff between outgoing artillery and incoming rockets. Mortars were distinctively different, but only heard them once. The story's about the mortars and about ArcLight are only for a quiet evening when everybody is ready to tell real war stories over a lingering beer. Face to face.
  19. http://www.military.com/veteran-jobs/career-advice/military-transition/gm-making-of-m-16.html?ESRC=airforce.nl
  20. Many loads in Lyman are generic. Kind of bullet type and weight rather than the very specific bullet you are likely to find in the bullet-maker manuals. I once made a table of loads for one bullet I wanted to use. That is, when buying bullets in a gun store, you almost never see the exact same bullet twice. There will always be, for example, 150 gr .308 dia, HPBT's. But not the same exact maker's part number. The bullet-maker manuals often specify a particular part number that you will never be able to buy anywhere, including online. I had a column of five or six published loads, for the same kind of bullet, as in the example above. Starting weight of the powder I intended to use, max weight. I calculated the difference and included it. Then with my little 'Scientific Calculator' I averaged each column. The averages were different from any of the published numbers, but very similar. Also, the averaged numbers were very close to the footnotes in some manuals for "best" loads. A quick & dirty trick is to use the '2/3 rule' for your first trials or as a working load. The '2/3 Rule' is to start with the published minimum weight of a powder, add 2/3 (65%) of the difference between published minimum and published maximum, and use that as your working accuracy load. Early on, while finding the 'best' bullet, this is a good approach. The load will be well below max and should be safe in any major brand gun in decent condition that was manufactured since 1960. This weight of powder also usually is very close to the footnoted (if there is one) best accuracy load. But, as always, no promises! What you or any reader does while reloading and shooting is beyond knowledge and everyone is on their own!
  21. You are using a low-profile gas block? The FF tube covers it up? Then all that should matter (correct this Washguy, if needed) is that the set screw closest to the breech fits into the hole/dimple closest to the breech and that with a finger closing the breech end, a breath of air blown into the muzzle escapes through the gas tube. Then Lock-Tight the two set screws and torque them down. I feel like I missed or misunderstood something else. The gas tube is held in position in the gas block with a roll pin? That holds the gas tube in proper place; the gas tube has its own port that has to face the barrel and the ports in the barrel and gas passage in the gas block? In recoil, I think, the rifle/barrel will jolt toward the shooter. Everything attached will be left behind, or, seem to move toward the muzzle. So the set screw in the gas block that fits into a dimple properly keeps the gas block from moving, must be solid at the end of possible travel to keep the gas block from moving toward the muzzle. A second (or more) setscrew(s) can help, but are really just gravy. My recent purchases of gas blocks (and almost everything else) were not the item at the top of the online catalog listings but from somewhere a long way down the list. Prices were manageable. Midwest Industries and even Troy steel gas blocks for mid-$30 prices instead of the $70 - $200 at the top of the listings. Other savings: Under $10 A2 flash suppressor instead of the pretty and pretty expensive offerings; Badger handle parts with some reasembly of the charging handle was almost 10 cents on the dollar(?); I do splurge on a CAA grip-- under $40 and better than any other brand. Including Magpul. My opinion. (No 'humble': I am a Metal Dragon and a Leo Horoscope sign.) <lmao>
  22. I am known to be hard of hearing. Enough that I have to point my ear at people when I am listening (which gives the impression that I am not paying attention, another matter) but I have always known that the real problem is that I am processing EVERYTHING I hear and; if what I am listening to doesn't stand out, then all I hear is a blur because it's basically being blended with everything else. This is common with older people, too. It is a statement of my own hearing. A couple of years back, I began searching for an affordable solution. It seems that a "Hearing Aid" is a medical device. It requires a licensed medical person to make a prescription. The Hearing Aid is also high priced. After obtaining a Hearing Aid the patient will usually find that it is necessary to have the device adjusted and fine-tuned to work adequately. $5000 for the hearing aid, $5000 for the medical services, $5000 to $15000 for the follow-on services. Then it has been 2 - 5 years and the whole thing starts over. Hearing Aids do not really work well. Sometimes they help and sometimes they serve no purpose in a given situation. Just like the hero in a Hollywood production can keep all 90 rounds from a junk handgun precisely on target offhand 500 yards out, but real, decent quality guns used by real people are lucky to stay on paper at 10 yards, the uninformed person expects miracles from "Hearing Aids." I bought a Listening Accessory from a company called "Songbird." Still pricey, do not remember the cost but maybe around $700 for two. If it is a hearing aid described with another name, it is not a 'medical device.' I find that the things I bought can help in some situations. I use them (both ears) when I think they will help and leave them home most of the time. These devices are just as good as high-grade professional Hearing Aids that I was able to try for a length of time. I do not know if "Songbird" is still in business, but the approach should still be helpful. When I go shooting, I use the reusable ear plugs that are supposed to permit conversation and block the pressure shocks of gunfire. I put these in my ears before I get out of the car at the open-air range. Before I leave the office to go to the firing line, I put ear-muff protectors over ears and ear plugs. Double protection really does make a big difference. If you are a Veteran, and are not already involved, hook up with VA and see what can be managed through them. Your first stop/visit should be with the VA Service Officer. He is your 'Lawyer' or adviser at VA. (Be there to sign-in at or before 0800, Tuesday-Thursday. Everybody likes to go on Monday and Friday & show up around 10 AM. Take something to read while waiting. Be prepared to spend all day.) Be sure and take a copy of your DD 214. If you are a Veteran, you should be involved with VA. Not finding out what VA can do for you is a major mistake.
  23. I have two Vortex Vipers. One is 3-9; the other is 6.5-20. They are on my AR-15 uppers in Warne QD mounts. Very clear images, work well. Change the dials for reticle adjust and the new setting is right there, no banging on the tube to 'settle' anything. Vortex scopes are a prime item, highly respected in the stories in the publications of the Dallas Safari Club. Manufacturing in China is a mixed bag. Some things are made cheaply, some things are made very well. Apple iPhones are made in China to high quality standards. Some things from China are made by unknown actual who-did-its: Then these products are sold to another party as a "Substitute." 'Substitutes' can change hands several times so that the real origin might be fully obfuscated. The actual product might be as good as the original specs or not. American companies that can keep track and be assured that the final product is done to spec and engineering standards get excellent results.
  24. Whatever other reloading manuals you buy, buy Sierra and Lyman.
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