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The Redneck Chamber Test


Alamo

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I've been doing this for a while to check/ ensure the chamber fit and function of both sized cases and loaded/ reloaded ammunition.

Step 1: Separate the upper and place rail side down, with the ejection port facing away from you. Pull the charging handle and BCG far enough back to allow the insertion of a case through the ejection port.

Step 2: Insert case through ejection port. Hook the case rim under the extractor and lever it down to depress the ejector and spring.

Step 3: Hold the case in place and slide the BCG forward, keep your finger on the case until it passes the chamber throat.

Step 4: Using only mild finger pressure, slide the BCG slowly all the way forward until it locks... don't use momentum or slam it into place. This should require barely more effort than closing the bolt on an empty chamber. If the bolt will not close with with only light effort, don't force it... and don't use that round.

Step 4: Pull charging handle to eject case. This should also only take mild effort.

A case or loaded round that requires any extra effort to chamber or demonstrates any stickiness on ejection should be set aside to be examined for cause and reworked.

What say you folks, am I risking my family jewels by doing this with loaded rounds? There is only the mildest contact of firing pin to primer when I close the bolt. I've examined the rounds afterwards and there is no marring or the surface by the pin.

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Hi JT,

Well it wouldn't be a Redneck check if I used the proper tools now would it? 'Cept I'd still be a Redneck, so there's that - you can only say "Yes" to so many of Jeff Foxworthy's questions before you just break down and admit the truth - plus I spent years in an Airstream on a farm in central Georgia, that alone  gets you an honorary induction. 

I started using this for an upper I have with a real tight chamber, everything it eats gets checked 1st (reminds me of a story about a monkey and a cue ball). Case gauge wouldn't tell me if the round will fit in my specific chamber. Another advantage over a case gauge is that you can tell if the projectile is loaded too long for its profile.

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  I used to use a similar method , until I had issues with some loaded rounds on a new Press . I have case Gages for every rifle Cartridge I load now , its more about safety , it will only take one to screw up a trip to the range . 

On 9/18/2017 at 6:51 PM, Alamo said:

Another advantage over a case gauge is that you can tell if the projectile is loaded too long for its profile.

 Thats why there are COL spec's for Bullet manufacturers . For any Mag fed rifle , if they don't fit in the Mag , they are too long of COL . That is until you get into something like the 300 BLK , which is still a young wildcat Cartridge , as is the 24-45 Sharps . You have to look around for loaded COL for specific Bullets , from people using them .

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13 hours ago, survivalshop said:

  I used to use a similar method , until I had issues with some loaded rounds on a new Press . I have case Gages for every rifle Cartridge I load now , its more about safety , it will only take one to screw up a trip to the range . 

 Thats why there are COL spec's for Bullet manufacturers . For any Mag fed rifle , if they don't fit in the Mag , they are too long of COL . That is until you get into something like the 300 BLK , which is still a young wildcat Cartridge , as is the 24-45 Sharps . You have to look around for loaded COL for specific Bullets , from people using them .

Funny you should say that :thumbup:  The upper I'm using in the pics is a .300 BLK pistol upper. I use the test on it when creating my own heavier for caliber expanding ammunition (Maker is the only manu I know that has any decent ones, and they want too much for them). I'm currently experimenting using Hornady HPBTs and shaving various lengths off the top. I imagine with these longer projectiles, if I cut enough off and seated it out far enough, it might end up contacting the lands, which should show up using that test.

Here's one version I've designed for medium range, I call it the "Heffalump". It's made from a Hornady 168 gr HPBT with 1/10" off the top. It exhibits full expansion at 50 yds and partial at 75. I have a longer range version with 1/8" off, that I'm thinking will work out to 100+... but it's still untested at the moment. Will eventually work up versions with 195 & 208 gr HPBTs, but haven't gotten around to it.

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