PA10 GEN II, My Findings On Parts Info and Range Data (Log)

[98Z5V]

4 minutes ago, bfoosh006 said:

Oops... and great thread !

Welcome to the party, sunshine.  Where the hell you been?...  

[bfoosh006]

6 minutes ago, 98Z5V said:

Welcome to the party, sunshine.  Where the hell you been?...  

Dude.... I have so  much to share.

[98Z5V]

So, you're saying you missed us...  

[bfoosh006]

6 minutes ago, 98Z5V said:

So, you're saying you missed us...  

IM sent

 

[98Z5V]

Yeah, you missed us...  

[bfoosh006]

45 minutes ago, 98Z5V said:

Yeah, you missed us...  

[GoodByNAair]

21 hours ago, bfoosh006 said:

GoodNByAir.... can you show a photo of the barrel nut under the FF tube ? .. and check to see if the barrel nut is steel ? ( magnet )... and it is good to see a tab on the front of the charging handle.

Oops... and great thread !

Hey all,

Life work has been crazy the last few days. Quick update, @bfoosh006Ill check the barrel nut.

Next on the list.

Seems like PSA shot the upper. See below. The upper was dirty but bone dry when I got it. 

I got all my lower parts and put everything together. see below.

NOTE this hand guard has a QD mount point at 3 and 9. BUT the barrel is to close to the rail and the QD swivel will not lock in place see below. This is not a big deal as its M-lok and I can make it work.(it is a problem PSA) If they are going to sell it as a rail with "built in" QD mounts this is not good as they do not work. Unless I don't own a low profile swivel IDK. I tested 3 different bands, none of them worked...

 

I cleaned and oiled the upper and will be shooting this week, I hope tomorrow. This will be just a small break in test as I will not have a lot of time.  (maybe 50 rounds)

[Gopher]

Yeah some good info, thanks for putting this together GoodByNAir.  It will help me when I get my PSA Gen2 PA10 rifle kit (503654) in tomorrow.

 

Also, Thanks 98Z5V for the info on the scope, I just ordered one and did not even realize that they are here in Houston.  I see a trip down to south Houston to check out their store.

 

 

[GoodByNAair]

Thanks Gopher, Good luck with your project.

Quick Range report. Shot 20 rounds of brass, first 2 rounds needed the forward assist for full battery. After that brass ran great ejecting around 1 o'clock. Brass was a little marked up. Next 20 rounds of steel. Tulammo 168gr SP lite primer strike on the first 5 rounds. All 5 rounds fired on 2nd strike. weak hammer spring?? Next 15 rounds of Wolf MC 140 SP. 50% had lite primer strikes. NOTE that the 20" PA10 (the other PA10 I'm reporting on) has about 50 rounds of steel with no lite primer strikes. Both using psa ELPK. 20" lower came complete, mine is using an AR15 FCG. They should be the same thing?

I was out of time at this point. So It seems like everything was working as it should when shooting brass ammo.

 

I'll get more rounds hopefully soon but I just needed to function check to start.

[GoodByNAair]

Bah! It just hit me I may have Noobed up and put the hammer spring in backwards?! I'll check and follow up.  

[bfoosh006]

Be sure to clean the chamber prior to the next outing.

I polished mine gently, with "0000"  ( Quad Ought ) Steelwool wrapped around a chamber brush, attached to a section of cleaning rod chucked into a drill.  0000 steel wool won't scratch even glass.
Clean chamber afterwards

Also, most all brand new .308 AR's need about 30 rds fired through them to break in... I have always used brass cased for this.

[GoodByNAair]

10 hours ago, bfoosh006 said:

Be sure to clean the chamber prior to the next outing.

I polished mine gently, with "0000"  ( Quad Ought ) Steelwool wrapped around a chamber brush, attached to a section of cleaning rod chucked into a drill.  0000 steel wool won't scratch even glass.
Clean chamber afterwards

Also, most all brand new .308 AR's need about 30 rds fired through them to break in... I have always used brass cased for this.

Thank you Sir, for the info.

I plan to clean it up real nice before next shooting. I'll do some light polishing. I'll shoot some more brass before testing steel again. 

 

Note on the hammer spring , YUP messed it up. . This is the first lower I put together and did not look at a DIY. See pics for before and after I fixed the spring.  The gun will still work it just gives you a very lite hammer strike, This why its very easy to miss.  

Next time to the range I plan to have more time. 

[bfoosh006]

3 hours ago, GoodByNAair said:

Thank you Sir, for the info.

I plan to clean it up real nice before next shooting. I'll do some light polishing. I'll shoot some more brass before testing steel again. 

 

Note on the hammer spring , YUP messed it up. . This is the first lower I put together and did not look at a DIY. See pics for before and after I fixed the spring.  The gun will still work it just gives you a very lite hammer strike, This why its very easy to miss.  

Next time to the range I plan to have more time. 

Lol.. we have all done it. My last time was.. not tightening the scope screws....

[Gopher]

Got my kit in and Have got everything together.  I hope I am not hijacking your thread GoodByNAair just hoping this will help others and maybe point out faults by my self.

 

Ok so to recap on what I have:

1 - 10 year Anniversary stripped lower

1 - PSA Gen2 PA10 18" Midlength Stainless Steel .308 WIN 1:10 Rifle Kit - 503654

1 - Primary Arms 4-14X44 FFP Scope

 

So here are some picks of the parts and lengths of them, I cant find my small tape measure so no inside length of buffer tube.

 

Buffer:

Spring length with buffer tube length:

And final build:

 

I know not a lot of info but if I need to take more pics I can break it back down and do so.

[98Z5V]

That looks good, man - try tofind that small tape, and get that internal depth.  With an overall length like that, it's not an AR15 carbine receiver extension - you just want tomakes sure it's pretty (very) close to 7 5/8" internal depth.  Buffer looks good.  Spring looks good, from what can be said about the relaxed length. 

[Gopher]

Thanks 98Z5V, I will stop by the hardware store and buy me a mini tape measure.  Also, I should have my Mags in by Friday and will take it to the range and see how it fires.

[GoodByNAair]

On 4/18/2018 at 7:18 PM, Gopher said:

Got my kit in and Have got everything together.  I hope I am not hijacking your thread GoodByNAair just hoping this will help others and maybe point out faults by my self.

 

Ok so to recap on what I have:

1 - 10 year Anniversary stripped lower

1 - PSA Gen2 PA10 18" Midlength Stainless Steel .308 WIN 1:10 Rifle Kit - 503654

1 - Primary Arms 4-14X44 FFP Scope

 

So here are some picks of the parts and lengths of them, I cant find my small tape measure so no inside length of buffer tube.

 

Buffer:

Spring length with buffer tube length:

And final build:

 

I know not a lot of info but if I need to take more pics I can break it back down and do so.

Gopher, your all good posting here.  That's the point of this thread, to be a Database of PA10 information. Just be sure to comment on the good and bad. That way others can see  what they are really getting into (good or bad) when considering the PA10 as a 308 semi auto platform. 

Good looking rig!

Let me know how you like that optic, i'm heavily considering a Primary Arms optic for my PA10.

Edited April 25, 2018 by GoodByNAair

[GoodByNAair]

Rang report on both guns. We had a little bit of time to do some testing. 

After fixing my hammer spring I have 0 problems with steel. Next I needed $.50 to keep my BCG from hitting my Buffer tube. (pic 6)

We are working on the 100 yard rang so here are targets from 50 yards. See if you can read the chicken scratch for hand loads. My dad just put together some loads to run in both guns. Any way looks like SST 150gr hornady  with IMR 4064 powder 44.5gr looked great out of both guns. More testing needed but this is a good start. 

 

On the day, I ran about 75 rounds out of my gun 18" 50 brass and 25 steel just for fun. No problems. 

 

Pic 5 is of both 20" and 18" gun with both sets of SST 150gr honandy. 

[98Z5V]

1 hour ago, GoodByNAair said:

After fixing my hammer spring I have 0 problems with steel. Next I needed $.50 to keep my BCG from hitting my Buffer tube. (pic 6)

A quarter is 0.069", so you had one of those receiver extensions that was close to 8.000" internal depth.  The fix is easy, and you found it - I wouldn't change anything just because of that.  Measure it, internally, just to be sure, and check what you get.  You might want another quarter in there, depending. 

[Gopher]

Ok to today's update:

Went to the range to fire for the first time and now workie, here is what happened.

Items:

PSA Upper and lower (same as in post above)

PA Mags: http://www.primaryarms.com/10-308-SS-BM-B-ASC

 

Academy Ammo: https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/monarch®-fmj-308-winchester-150-grain-rifle-ammunition#repChildCatid=28631

Ok, so I went to the range today and want to fire my PA 10 for the first time.  Before I left I lubed up everything to make sure no dry fire, got to the range and loaded 1 round of the ammo above and was ready to shoot but it seems that either the ammo or the mag is causing a jam up (No pics here, sorry).  I had bought 2 mags of the same from PA so I tried the other mag with the same result.

 

So long story short, kinda sadden that I couldn't fire the rifle .  Not sure if its the mag not playing nice (hammer seems to close fine with out and ammo in it) or if its because I went cheap with the ammo (the cheapest I could find because I just wanted to fire a few rounds to test weapon).  I am going to contact PA and see if they are hearing issues on there end from others, I will also probably see them this weekend at the gun show and can talk face to face with them.

 

Just a few findings here on my side.

 

I forgot to check GoodByNAair post above, maybe its my spring too, I need to verify with my buddy who also has a PSA setup and see what ammo he shot a few weekends ago with out issues.

 

Edited April 25, 2018 by Gopher

[98Z5V]

Describe the jam up that you were having... 

[Gopher]

The hammer will hit the shell and shell will go into chamber but bolt get stuck half way, I am thinking maybe not enough force to push past mag after hitting shell?

[GoodByNAair]

48 minutes ago, Gopher said:

The hammer will hit the shell and shell will go into chamber but bolt get stuck half way, I am thinking maybe not enough force to push past mag after hitting shell?

My first 2 rounds did something like this. I needed to use the forward assist for full battery. I noted that the brass was marked up but after that the gun ran. I did clean and do a little light polishing with 0000 steel wool before the next range test. My 2nd range test the gun worked with 0 problems (75 rounds) brass and steel. Brass before steel

I also tested my first 50 rounds with Pmags, IMO they are a leader so if your testing guns use good mags.  Not saying ASC are not on par, but you get my point.

As others have said maybe try 20 to 50 rounds of brass for break in. Just pick up some cheap fmj brass.

 

I would be sure to clean it very well and look at bfoosh info about polishing. PA10 info

Edited April 25, 2018 by GoodByNAair

[98Z5V]

43 minutes ago, Gopher said:

The hammer will hit the shell and shell will go into chamber but bolt get stuck half way, I am thinking maybe not enough force to push past mag after hitting shell?

Steel-cased shut you down. Hardly ever works for a break-in.  If you need less expensive ammo to break in with, use some PMC Bronze. I wouldn't be using any Match ammo to break in any one of these things, no way, but steel-cased isn't the way to go.

[Gopher]

Thanks guys, will try new ammo this weekend, also going to hit the gun show to see what I can pick up.