Ejector marks, can I fix it?

[andrewtac]

Eagle Arms; has a 20" faxon in 6.5 creedmore, heavy buffer and tubbs spring.  Rainer high pressure BCG, adjustable block.  I tuned the gas by bolt hold open then plus two clicks; brass is 4 o'clock about 5-6 away.  I polished the ejector, and tried to chamfer the hole a little.  I also told rounded the extractor corners a little.  I am still getting ejector marks on the brass, appear to be about the size of the ejector hole.  I am thinking about removing the ejector and shooting it single shoot to see if it is the hole itself making the marks or the ejector.  Any other ideas?

 

I'd like to reload for this rifle at some point, and not have to by fresh brass every time.

 

[survivalshop]

Completely normal .  Of course if its taking off Brass material off the Base , that may be an issue . I trim the Base's on all my brass to true them up for reloading .

Edited July 29, 2019 by survivalshop

[jtallen83]

4 minutes ago, survivalshop said:

I trim the Base's on all my brass to true them up for reloading .

That I wanna hear more about! I have not researched a bunch but never ran across a fix for the tilted cases from out of whack rims. I knew I was saving all that beat up brass for some reason 

[survivalshop]

LE Wilson Case Trimmer , mine happens to have the Micrometer adj. for timing adj.. The way the Trimmer is made & how the Case holders hold the Case , around the Case & no Piolt, all I do is Trim the Case mouth first , then flip the Case with the Holder around & trim the Base True . Since the Case Holder grips around the case & is centered on the Base of the Trimmer , it will be true to the Base , no matter which way its pointing . The only issue I have had , is with Commercial Brass small base sized , it seems to sit deeper into the Case Holder & sometimes you cant trim the Base because some are recessed & the Cutter can't cut on them , FL Sized or MilSpec Brass has no issues , FL Sized Commercial is OK also .

This is the one I have .

If you look close , you can see where the trimmer took some material off part of the Base . I have some that trim 360 deg. of the Base . I believe the Extractor leave some deformation the the Extractor Rim of the Case Base , even though you can't see it & this is what I believe sometimes make the Case have a hard time inserting into the Shell Holder or sit uneven in the Shell Holder & may effect Sizing . I noticed a big difference in Concentricity of the Cases when Bases trued .

[jtallen83]

12 minutes ago, survivalshop said:

LE Wilson Case Trimmer , mine happens to have the Micrometer adj. for timing adj.. The way the Trimmer is made & how the Case holders hold the Case , around the Case & no Piolt, all I do is Trim the Case mouth first , then flip the Case with the Holder around & trim the Base True .

Thank you sir! Gonna put that on my search list and snag one up when the price is right! SS solves another one for me  

[andrewtac]

I'll need that, as some of the cases have a bur.  I have thought about adding more weight to the bolt

[survivalshop]

Every once in a while I get a Burr inside the Extractor grove the Base of the Case , I keep a three sided, fine, rat tail File to dress it up , but don't see it too often , this also gives a hard time inserting Case into the Shell Holder .

The Sinclair /LE Wilson I have is probably the most accurate Trimmer I have every used , once its adj. & locked down , its dead on every time . Its not cheap , but you can get them on sale with or with out the Micrometer , just have to keep an eye out .

[survivalshop]

Here is a good view of a Case that needed nearly 100% Base truing , compared to one that has not been trued . This is extreme , I normally only see a partial trim mark on the Case .