Jump to content
308AR.com Community
  • Visit Aero Precision
  • Visit Brownells
  • Visit EuroOptic
  • Visit Site
  • Visit Beachin Tactical
  • Visit Rainier Arms
  • Visit Ballistic Advantage
  • Visit Palmetto State Armory
  • Visit Cabelas
  • Visit Sportsmans Guide

Jgun

Specialist
  • Posts

    1,324
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jgun

  1. Based on this, I think it's likely to become more popular for 3gun in the next year. As soon as I chrono my 125gr test loads and decide between the 125's and the 145's, I plan to start loading in bulk so that I'll be able to get my long range hold overs figured out. militarytimes.com/blogs/gearscout/2011/10/23/usamus-horner-takes-the-gold-with-300blk
  2. Jgun

    M1A

    H20 MAN, That SAGE with the FAL (I think) PRS stock, is one nice setup. I've heard that it's the heaviest of the three stock types, with the AR buffer type being the lightest and the one with the side extension bars being in the middle. Would you say that is the case?
  3. It sounds like your going to have a very distinctive rifle when your done, and a great mix of top quality parts. I have yet to try any coating (ceracoat/duracoat, etc) on anything other than a pistol magwell. I didn't find it to be as durable as I would have liked. he pattern that you describe for your handguard, painted vs masked sections, might not be the best as far as wear goes. If i understand it correctly you'd like to paint the raised squares while masking the lower grooves. Although this might visually look the most striking initially, I think that if you actually shoot the gun offhand regularly, your going to find that the painted finish will wear off all of those raised squares in an uneven manner, which may not look too good down the road. You might get a more durable result if you were to flat clear the whole handguard after the FDE on the raised sections. You probably should take lots of pictures of the finished gun before you start using it, because it may not look that way after your using it regularly unless you shoot with a bipod and don't hold the handguard much. Just a thought.
  4. How do you find the new brake's effectiveness compared to the tank brake?
  5. I think if your starting from scratch with a build, you might look at it as a question between two similarly priced barrel "treatments", but if you already have an existing gun that has what you consider to be a good barrel and you'd like to try to improve it, then the sleeve is a $450 addition (with muzzle brake) while a carbon wrapped barrel becomes a $1000 barrel change. I think that there are other considerations here. Is the CF barrel a more effective accuracy improvement, I certainly don't know. From their own website they say that the sleeve with filler material, adds between 1 and 2lbs, while we already know that the CF wrapped barrel is lighter than an equivalent dia solid steel barrel. The other questions are which one dissipates heat better and which one is more rigid. I can't help but wonder how much improvement you could expect on a gun that's already a 1MOA or better shooter? I guess if it really works as well as claimed, we're going to start seeing it used on benchrest and high accuracy built rifles. To me this is just another interesting new innovation that has yet to be scientifically proven, but I'll be watching to see what happens.
  6. Have any of you seen this? The claim is that they reduce the heat in the barrel dramatically, improve barrel rigidity, accuracy and barrel life. The sleeves are supposed to be more effective at wicking heat from the barrel than the carbon fiber wrap, while increasing the rigidity to a similar degree. Since the sleeve is fitted to an existing barrel, you can have the sleeve added to an existing gun. The one thing I have not seen discussed is the question of just how much weight does this sleeve and the heat sinking material, add to the barrel? www.teludynetech.com/shotgunnews.cfm
  7. Yeah, sell it and buy a couple of AK's
  8. I would be inclined to agree, the ones with the rail appear to duplicate the configuration of the POF piston rifles, and if I'm not mistaken, because of the interface between the top of the upper and the extension of the rail that fits over it, I would think that the predator rail would be the only one that would be compatible with it. The flat top on the other hand, is made by Doug, and to my knowledge has never been available before. Mine is marked MOLON LABE. I have seen the POF configuration lowers marked as POF and also some marked as Hogan. So when I refer to an unmatched set I am specifically referring to the flat tops, which is what I purchased.
  9. Yeah, they are very inexpensive compared to the other sets on the market. I'm not sure that they are going to appeal to everyone, because your dealing with a non matched set, and not everyone likes to go that route. But if your the kind of person that put's together AR 15's using uppers and lowers sourced from different Mfg's I think of these as the .308 equivilant, besides being, IMHO, much nicer than a DPMS upper/lower set. Of course, I have yet to assemble mine, so can't actually comment on it's functional quality. We all have read about the Iron Ridge issues. Until I put mine together and actually function test, the jury is still out on them as far as I'm concerned.
  10. I've actually managed to make major out of my 18" barrel, with room to spare, using 145, 155, and 175gr bullets, all using LIL GUN powder. Now that I have accomplished that goal, I'm planning to see what the lightest bullet I can make major with is. I'm hoping that the lighter bullets will give me the flattest trajectory while still being acceptably accurate. I've got some 125's that I'm going to try next. If they make major I think that will be it for my load development, because I don't think I like the 110's for this use, if not I'll try the 130 and 135's.
  11. Rock Creek, Bartlein, and Satern to name a few. Kreiger, and Lothar Walther also.
  12. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress. That preditor rail is a good looking part, and with the rail extending over the upper receiver, you don't have to worry about straddling the upper/rail with your optics.
  13. Sorry to say, I have no lower parts kits or triggers on hand at this time, so jokes were all I could come up with. Good luck.
  14. Not to worry, As I understand it one of the requirements for membership on the .308AR forum is that you must have a higher level of intelligence then the public at large, so I'm sure that 6132 got the joke and will be sure to use subsonic loads.
  15. You know, there's a lot of different ways to put these AR's together, and depending on your planned use, some of the different configurations make more sense than others, also, if you build something with a specific use in mind, you don't have to allow for changing accessory mounting requirements. I have always liked the look of the tactical rails on an AR, and have them on all my other AR's. I really hate the look of the competition race guns I see at the matches, with all the shiny parts and fancy blue or red anodized receivers, I think they look too much like sporting equipment for my taste. But the Apex (although it's taken me a while to get used to it) kind of covers all the bases for me. It's so light that I can actually feel the difference when swinging the gun, but it has the ability to mount rails if you need them, and as mentioned before, the texture is really grippy. Don't know it I'd choose it for a combat gun but for the purpose I built the gun for, I think it's ideal. Now all I have to do is select the right optic, get my long range holdovers figured out, and I'll be good to go. I was thinking that the problems I had during the match may have been due to the fact that I was shooting the last of all my load development test rds, so I was shooting different weight bullets with different powder charges, Like Drew says, once I get that stuff sorted out, I plan to get em next time, LOL.
  16. I think you should practice your LPK assembly technique and do an actual demonstration, I think an excellent closing finale would be for you to slap an upper on and put a couple rds though it. I think that would be a speech that no one in the room would soon forget.
  17. I I shot a 3gun match this weekend using my 300BLK build for the first time. I didn't do as well as would have liked, but the fault lies with the operater, the 300 ran flawlessly. I found the gun to be accurate even tough I was shooting with iron sights. One thing I found was that all of my hits at distance were uniformly low, even though I had sighted in for 100yds. Not sure what to make of that, I guess I'll have to recheck zero. With the adjustable gas system an light weight BC, the gun shoots much softer than my.223 carbine, another thing I really liked was the texture on the OD in the Apex FF tube, much better grip than a carbon fiber tube. I'm really happy with the build. This one's definitely a keeper!
  18. use good quality parts from reputable companies, keep the gun lubed, and clean, maybe you would do well to keep spares for the common bolt components that tend to wear (just as with the AR 15). One thing that I have heard some complain about is problems with bolt catch breakage, although this has never happened to me.
  19. I forgot to mention that, as far as I know the Mega forged upper will physically and cosmetically mate to the POF AR 15 lower, and the billet and monolithic AR 15 uppers will physically fit, but the squared off profile of the Mega uppers will overhang the rear of the POF lower in the buffer tube area.
  20. No, they will not.
  21. That's what I would do if it was me. It's a lot easier to use an adjustable gas block to limit gas, than it is to try to get a gun that is undergassed by design, to run properly, besides, even if you plan to mount your suppressor permanently, you still may need to adjust gas to suit different loads you might run.
  22. To expand on my last reply, I have a Noveske 7.62 14.5" Afghan barreled carbine, and Noveske (who know what their doing with SBR's) use what they call a carbine length gas system for their 14.5" 7.62 Barrel , but the location is the actually the same as what is considered a midlength for a 5.56 barrel. Now on their 12.5" 7.62 Leonidas barrel they state that they use a proprietary gas block location, which leads me to believe that it must be shorter than what they call carbine for 7.62 but is actually mid length for 5.56. I understand that none of the guns mentioned, are fitted with suppressors but I have to believe that you'd do best with a 5.56 carbine gas location on your 12" 7.62 barrel, even if suppressed.
  23. I have no first hand experience building SBR's, but since mid length is going to be around 9.5 to 10 inches, I think that to be sure that you'll have no reliability issues, I'd be inclined to go with a carbine length gas system. I realize that mounting a dedicated suppressor might be enough to create the pressure needed to make a mid length gas system work on a 12" SBR, but unless you know of someone successfully running that setup, your going to be the one to prove whether or not, it's a good configuration. Have you done a search on the silencer talk forum to see if there's an answer to your question over there?
  24. I had considered the tan DD Lite rail, but have a different rail in mind for this one, I'd love to anodize the parts but the last time I looked into it, all of the platers in my area that I showed the upper/lower to, (without even getting into replating the rail) told me that in order to strip the hardcoat off to reanodize in tan, I would end up with dimensionally different parts because the stripping would remove material from the parts. It sounds as though I'm heading in the same direction again. I can do any of these things but the risk is all on me, and this puts me in the same place as before where I don't want to risk high end .308 parts to test out these processes. I think I'm going to need to buy some lower end AR 15 parts, upper/lower,rail and try out all of the coating processes I'm curious about. So maybe a tan AR 15 with a Melonite coated barrel, and maybe some sort of coating on the BCG as well.
  25. I've been thinking that it would be something new for me to build my next .308 AR as a tan gun, I figured I'd powder coat the upper/lower,rail before assembly and use tan furniture. The only thing that's holding me back is the idea that the gun would look like poop if the powdercoat wasn't durable and started to chip off when I mounted things on the rail and started shooting the gun. Anyone tried it yet that can tell me how well the finish stands up?
×
×
  • Create New...