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Jgun

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Everything posted by Jgun

  1. It's black, I might have screwed it onto a barrel, but it's never been shot through. .308 cal. I think $75 would be reasonable.
  2. We've got a guy that comes out to the matches and shoots a S&W 625. with moon clips. The guy is impressively fast, He's a good shooter, and it's always a treat to watch him reloading during a stage. Makes me want to try a revolver. One thing I did notice, When shooting the revolver for speed, it seems to me that your being pretty rough on the gun during reloads. You know, You, hit the release lever, swing out the cylinder(not always completely controlled by your weak hand) hit the shell rod to eject the shells, slap another moon clip in, and slam the cylinder closed. I've always been lead to understand that being rough when opening/closing the cylinder leads to premature wear and damage to the lock up and subsequently reduce accuracy. I wonder if anyone here could give any input on this, does shooting a revolver in matches, tend to shorten it's lifespan?
  3. I think sub 9lbs for a .308 AR with a 21" barrel is going to be hard to achieve. I have a MA TEN .308 AR that I put together using a 14.5" Noveske fluted Afghan barrel. It has a 13" Noveske(SWS) rail, and I used the ACE Hammer stock. My rifle weighs a little more than 9lbs as configured (empty, without optics). As stated above, I'd stay away from the PRS if lightness is a priority. I could shave at least a pound off mine if I went to a CTR stock, and even a few oz. more with the Ace ARFX stock. The Troy rail is not too heavy but there are lighter options, I think the VTAC and the APEX are both lighter, and there's always a carbon fiber freefloat tube if you want the lightest option. Christianson, has a CF railed handguard that is supposed to be the lightest railed handguard option, but I have yet to handle it, besides which, it's pretty pricey.
  4. I bought one but never ended up mounting it. I went with the BABC instead. I have heard that it's supposed to be effective(that's why i bought it) and it's about half the price of the Battle comp, but heavier. I also got one of the Spikes Dynacomps, but i put that on my 300BLK so I can't speak from experience about how effective it is. The Dyna comp is very light though (that's why I put it on my lightweight competition gun). By the way I still have the SJC if your interested in buying it.
  5. That fires from the bottom chamber, correct? What cal. is it?
  6. Here's a few of mine. Wish I had a S&W 625, and an early Colt SA, etc...etc.
  7. Nice job! I like that sling I may have to try one. Have you ever tried the drum mag in that, or is it a nogo as with the JAE stock?
  8. Moagm316, You describe your AR as being in the 6lb range, your referring to an AR 15, correct? Can you list the components used to build that rifle?
  9. If your RRA is in fact threaded 1.5"-18 it is a proprietary thread. The Armalite and DPMS pattern uppers both have 1.437 barrel nut threads, 16 and 18 pitch repectively.
  10. That's my youngest, from the "new" wife. It's also where most of my money goes these days. Who knew LEGO's were so expensive, and now he's into video games.
  11. My other interests are varied, and too numerous to go into, but I also like building/riding custom MC's.
  12. jlbell, Sent you an email.
  13. Thanks for the info, I'm looking to seeing some pictures of it!
  14. Very impressive guesstimating on all your design specs. Having never done anything with SBR's or suppressed, maybe I can ask you, I've heard that the suppressed guns really get dirty fast when shooting, is that why you need to keep lubing it? Also, when you said that you turned/ported the barrel for carbine length, I'm assuming your referring to AR 15 carbine length, (around 7 1/2", is that correct? And finally, you mentioned that the bolt cycling feels subjectively harder than you had expected and that you could have gone with a smaller barrel port size, do you think that a heavier buffer might soften the bolt cycling impulse down a little?
  15. Too bad it has a plastic lower.
  16. I would agree that the tank brake is not the most attractive, but if it was noticeably more effective than anything else, I'd be willing to run it on a bench gun. I just ordered one of the large JP Cooley brakes for my M1A project, glad to hear that you find it to be an effective brake. Nice looking build you've got there, good luck with it.
  17. Here's the linK to the company. The gun I'm refering to is the ITS 12 .308 http://www.ar15performance.com/home
  18. I have a .308 AR I assembled with lightness in mind. It weighs 8.25 lbs with an empty mag and BUIS (no optic) It has a carbon fiber wrapped 18" barrel and a Magpul CTR stock. I think you should be able to get down to around 7 lbs (without optic). I have a full length quad rail handguard on mine. I think the one that Robocop is putting together, with the Apex handguard and Ace ARFX stock should come in at least 1 lb lighter than mine. Both of these guns should exceed 1.5 MOA accuracy. I'm thinking that the only way you'd get one much lighter than that would be if you went with a 16" pencil barrel, bare carbon fiber FF tube like the Clarks, and maybe go with a lightened bolt carrier group. There's a guy that makes a hybrid type AR that is a cross between a small frame and large frame AR that's supposed to be very light, but I think it uses a proprietary upper that allows him to use his own AR 15 type barrels but .308 barrel extension and AR 15 hand guards. I think the company is AR performance, and if you don't mind having to buy your one off replacement parts from only that source, it might be an option for you.
  19. jlbell, You left out the key piece of information. We all like to share our technical information here. You never stated which length gas system you went with, 5.56 carbine length? You mention that you think the gas port might be a little large, does that mean that you've had to close the gas block adjustment a lot in order to get it to cycle? Can you give details on which can your using, for those of us that can run them? And finally, How quiet is it, do you still need ear pro?
  20. Jgun

    M1 Garand/1903A3

    Yes, very nice indeed!!!!!! I think I'm going to "need" a Garand, after my M1A is finished.
  21. Jgun

    M1A

    I don't expect that there will be much(if any) progress on this build until after I get on the other side of Christmas, but in my mind it's already finished. I'm planning on the 22" Krieger heavy. The trigger, bolt and op rod will be USGI if I can find good stuff at a fair price. Will update when I have something happening. By the way, any progress on the 50 drum for your bullpup? I would have liked to try one myself, but I see that they don't fit the JAE stock.
  22. Might be more a case of my poor comprehension or retention skills than your clairvoyance. I think I'll reserve my judgment on whether you can read minds, until I've seen you answer a couple of my unposted questions in your responses first.
  23. Do you know what the parent case is for the .338 RCM? I certainly can appreciate the commonality of components as the 300BLK has with .223, but I'm wondering if there's enough ballistic superiority over the .338 federal to recommend it. I'm trying to come up with something to get me interested in a new large platform AR build, and I'm thinking that a different caliber (if I can find the right one) might do it. The two logical directions seem to be, either go for a max range cal like .260 or 6.5 BR or go for the most powerful long range cal I can come up with, which right now seems to be one of the .338 short action cartridges.
  24. I've been told that the .338 Ruger compact magnum (.338 RCM) is ballistically superior to the .338 Federal, and will also chamber in the large platform AR. Anyone know anything about this cartridge?
  25. Disregarding the final performace of some wildcat that you come up with, there is the expense of the custom forming dies to take into account. The more severe the forming operation, the more dies that will be needed to get it down to the desired neck size, in addition to the fact that you'll need to anneal the cases in order to do the drastic forming operation without them work hardening and cracking. Your also going to need to have a chamber reamer made (more expense). Once you go to all that trouble, you'll find yourself being very careful not to ever lose any of your one of a kind brass, which can be a PITA all by itself, unless your going to chamber it in a revolver. I was looking into duplicating the .224 BOZ cartridge, and found that the dies and chamber reamer were going to run me close to $500. If Your serious about developing a wildcat I recommend that you get yourself a copy of Ken Howells book, "Designing and forming Custom cartridges for rifles and handguns". I consider this book to be the definitive work on the subject.
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