cantshootafish

I cannot find one that effectively locks my bolt in place after the last shot in the magazine. I find it hard to believe that the Badger Ordinance part would take care of that problem. Has anyone else had that problem and corrected it using the Badger Ordinance part?

I made the mistake of getting a couple of the plastic lowers from Tennessee Arms. You cannot use a Giessele or Right to Bear trigger with them. Somehow it hangs up the bolt after a couple shots. I wasted a lot of hours figuring out what the problem was, and I ended up getting a couple of drop in timney triggers and it works fine.

I love the Magpul Glock mags. No more cutting of your thumbs on the brass inserts when reloading. They are working perfectly.

Ebay and Amazon both have some garbage suppliers. I got two gas tubes that were out of spec on the flare diameter but I could not tell which site/manufacturer I got them from once they were in the pile. Now I check the OD of them when they come in. In fact, I just jumped on this deal from Brownell's where you get free shipping and free return shipping for $50 a year, and some special pricing. Its nice when you just want to order one piece of something and don't wanna get raped on the shipping. I ordered two nice looking forends from Amazon for .223 also and had to send them back. The threads to the forend from the barrel nut were so sloppy that you could not even tighten them up to each other. At least with Amazon they sent a prepaid shipping label and they give no arguments on the refund. Update: I bought some forends from another supplier via slickguns and got the same Chinese junk as the ones from Amazon. Lookout guys...it seems to be everywhere now.

Ebay and Amazon both have some garbage suppliers. I got two gas tubes that were out of spec on the flare diameter but I could not tell which site/manufacturer I got them from once they were in the pile. Now I check the OD of them when they come in. In fact, I just jumped on this deal from Brownell's where you get free shipping and free return shipping for $50 a year, and some special pricing. Its nice when you just want to order one piece of something and don't wanna get raped on the shipping. I ordered two nice looking forends from Amazon for .223 also and had to send them back. The threads to the forend from the barrel nut were so sloppy that you could not even tighten them up to each other. At least with Amazon they sent a prepaid shipping label and they give no arguments on the refund.

I'm gonna try a polymer lower from Tennessee Arms to lighten my next build. They will be available in 4 weeks or so. Only $75 to buy it now. I'm still not sure which free floating forend would be the lightest yet though.

I will be doing some ceracoating and have questions on blasting and shooting the inside of the upper and lower. Is everyone taping off the inside areas and only doing the outsides or do we bust our butts blasting the insides also and coating them? It just seems like it would be easier to avoid messing with the inside areas due to all the hard to get to spots. Same thing with the threads for the barrel nut on the uppers....are we doing those too or taping them off?

I did. I just used ebay as an information source in their descriptions to show how things can get confused. Believe me though when I say that talking to the "experts" at Brownells did not yield any more valid information. The best info I got was from guys on this site.

Yup....I guess thats why the H&H tactical site seems to be down and they don't call me back. Thank goodness I had a guy who could make me a special length release button. It looks better than the std anyway with having a blind tapped hole and "308" laser cut into the end to fill with your favorite color of paint.

I've been using the Syrac Ord adjustable gas blocks for 4 builds now (besides other builds) on the AR platform and am quite used to them. The only .308 I did so far was a rifle length gas system with the A2 fixed stock, rifle length extension tube/buffer/spring and it fuctions perfectly. I just don't know the best way to approach the mid length gas system since I have had no experience with it in either platform and got a deal on a CMMG mid length gas barrel for the .308 build. I have the PRS stock and rifle length receiver extension in stock with the .308 rifle length buffer/spring. I have no problem with running the adjustable gas full open to zero in the system. So can anyone tell me if the rifle length damper/spring/tube will work properly with the mid length gas barrel.....or do I need a carbine length reciever extension, buffer and tube? Thats all I am trying to find out. Thanks.

So after reading this am I correct to say that I can use my mid-length gas 18" barrel with a magpul PRS stock containing a DPMS rifle length tube, spring and damper? I also plan on using the Gen II Syrac Ord adjustable gas block. Any problems with this combo? I am SO confused!!!! Thanks for all the help guys. I already had to make a custom length mag release button for the H&H lower but it turned out sweet.

The standard mag release button had to be pushed below the surface of the lower to get the mag to release if it was threaded on more than one thread....not acceptable. I had a friend make a custom length mag release button for me and it worked out perfect. We had to add 1/8" to the length of it. I finished the assembly and test fired it today and all is perfect. Now on to my next one....

Build done....rifle length gas tube works perfectly with DPMS style upper, lower and CMMG 18" barrel. Thanks too all for the info.

Thanks guys. It got even more confusing when looking at different sellers on fleabay since some were advertising their lengths at 15.125. Looking forward to finally getting this build finished.

The mag release button and the threaded shaft afe the same length as those from my AR15 LPK's. I bought the LR308 LPK from DPMS, and it does have the different (and correct) magazine release latch, so I assume all the other parts in the kit are correct. Are these parts supposed to be the same as the AR kits? It sure looks like the shaft could use another 1/8" of length. It looks like H&H went out of business. No luck at getting to them by email from the link on their site.