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Lane

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About Lane

  • Rank
    500
  • Birthday April 23

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Upstate New York
  • Interests
    Machining, Building, Shooting, Reloading.

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  1. You tried really hard. But I have never, NOT EVER, NOT been able to remove a stuck case by rotating the lower die. Once you know you fuoooked it up;; you have to fix it. I'm super curious about what you're doing here.
  2. Did you re-finish that thing or something? Too clean for 1,100 rounds? Or was that on day 1?
  3. You're talking external ballistics, on an internal ballistics situation. A few minutes after I posted, I realized flight times were not right in that comparison. I didn't want to re-post to clarify. I think disconnecting the mag-length is a benefit. If you're shooting distance already; why do you need mag length limits? Is anyone in need of semi-auto deer or elk hunts?
  4. That's kind of weird to me upon inspection. The fast pills wear out the barrel faster. But faster pills take on less external forces in flight. So the trade is almost 1:1. Consider a 2,000 fps pill hitting a target at 600 yards; and a 4,000 fps pill hitting that same target. One gets twice the time in flight to absorb wind; and all the other offensive forces along the way... Just buy a dozen fresh barrels for your favorite configurations? What about those seating depth questions? Mostly rhetorical questions... Should one just ignore the magazine (and associated length restrictions) if you want to nail that stuff with an AR build? I'm kind of thinking yes...
  5. I'm going back and re-watching these just to make sure I didn't miss anything. I have come up with a few questions along the way though. If seating depth can be used to tune any load; isn't it ideal to be closer to the lands to avoid excessive throat erosion? I don't think Erik talks about that explicitly. Obviously; in some situations it's ideal to get the most speed (highest powder charge that finds a node), for supersonic stability at extreme distance... Is a short seating depth of any benefit (other than mag fit) in this situation? What causes excessive throat erosion in 6.5x284 Norma as Magwa mentioned? While it's not a foreign concept to me; I had personally assumed it was related to blow-by, from gasses escaping before the bullet hits the lands (or plugs the barrel). Or aggressive powder charges near the limits of a cartridge/powder load. Any thoughts on that matter? Is a chrome lined barrel something that would last longer? Or is that roughly an un-haggleable price you must pay for that performance?
  6. Forty-five minutes. It's a long watch if you can even do it non-stop. But I
  7. Have your buddy measure the round... That's a FUNNY problem. Your rounds, and your load, for your barrel, and that specific configuration; are for you... At the same time; everyone can have this kind of reliability with a bit of effort.
  8. Ouch; video 2 is a re-hash? That's going to take me a bit longer. I was 100% solid with video #1. Those were some superior measurements, and numbers presented in the first video. I always wondered about actual round count to throat erosion data. I'll take his input as a solid metric. Nothing to fret over.
  9. I'm still working on it. Watching the videos slowly to make sure I don't miss anything; and digest if fully. Same deal, I wouldn't even care about these nuances without a load work up. Again; super helpful. These videos are an excellent guardrail to prevent unfounded tangents in load development. Much appreciated.
  10. Have not finished watching the first video yet; but this is quality stuff. He's a bit long winded, but it's well worth the time. Found out that I already adhere to a lot of this as a matter of course. Making a dummy round is always the first thing off my press for any projectile/cartridge combo (once I'm happy with everything else). Made extra long to find out where I stand... His method was a bit different than mine beyond that, I'll keep that in mind going forward. I do these tests in a more complicated way right now. But the; "you don't need to know where the lands are".... I don't think Magwa was saying he did need to know exactly. I thought his methodology was sound from the start. Getting close to the end of first video. Still agree with his math and methods 100%. I have a few builds with single digit round counts for this very reason. I want to be absolutely sure I'm not making unfounded assumptions. Thanks for this... Been a while since I had some quality inputs.
  11. Lane

    Reloading Primers

    Took my time on the case prep for this; which is a delicate affair in comparison to larger brass. Mixed up a half batch of priming compound to the best of my ability; and loaded 10 cases. Five with acetone, and five with denatured alcohol. Ultimately I wasn't happy with 91% isopropyl alcohol for this. The denatured still takes considerably longer to evaporate, and packing the rim is more difficult as a result. One drop of acetone, and a short wait; made them pack pretty quickly in a noticeable way. Started testing a jig for centerfire primers, but it's not quite finished. It's a simple design, to hold large and small primer cups, and the anvil for each, so that priming compound can be pushed the recessed cups; and the anvil re-inserted. Reasonably confident in the results achieved; but will test them before making any more. It's really not that bad if you control your breath. A sneeze, or unsteady hand could make a mess real fast.
  12. Lane

    Reloading Primers

    It appears I may had believed incorrect information about what this Prime All compound really is. It seems to actually be H-42; and not the H-48 I thought it was originally (and read other reviews guessing). That would certainly explain the odd weights of each bag in comparison to the H-48 recipe. The forth bag is apparently powdered shellac (not ground glass). Immediately the next test was to see what solvent works best for that. I'm happy with acetone, and think it works better than 91% isopropyl alcohol. Going to try denatured as well, if I can find some in the garage. Acetone evaporates extremely quickly though, so I'd be curious to see if anything is is better in practice. Probably prime a few cases with each option... Others have suggested adding even more shellac in liquid form. So I'll try that too. I cast a few projectiles, and while the mold works well; it has some quirks. Seems like it might even be designed for left handed users. Flung a few sprue cuts on the floor just trying to get the hang of it. And now double sure I need to make wooden handles for it. Even thick leather gloves weren't quite enough to keep my hands comfortable; as such, I only made a quick dozen. Ground down the tips of a couple cheap punches and then hammered out most of the dent in a few dozen spent rimfire cases. While still imperfect, they seem to be a lot better. Now the cases need some cleaning, and resizing. Then I'll start loading rimfire primers. I may make a few small rifle primers too; but I don't currently have a gun picked out to use for that purpose. Apparently baking soda can be added to make the primers last longer (less moisture sensitive), so I'll give that a try if I make centerfire in any quantity. I also wonder if a final application of dilute shellac would make that unnecessary; maybe after the anvil is pressed in? Images: Cheap punches before grinding, and .22lr castings. Tiny rails (floating on glass) of shellac powder before testing solvents.
  13. Lane

    Reloading Primers

    Finally got the motivation to jump into this idea headfirst. Still not entirely committed to corrosive primers in most of my guns. But at this point; I figure it's little harm to dedicate a Savage Mark II to running corrosive loads... Certainly not able to buy a lot of new .22lr these days. The best guess I've seen about this particular priming compound, is that it is roughly H-48 compound... Ground glass, potassium chlorate, antimony sulfide, and sulphur. Certainly not a great price on the mix here; but I thought it would be interesting to try. Could apparently get something like 50x this for about $200 investment. (1 pound sulphur $4, 4 pounds potassium chlorate $80, 2 pounds antimony tri-sulfide $50 (should work), 1 pound ground glass (silicon) $20)=3628g). What I got was 26 grams PC, 18g AS, 14.8g Sulphur, and 5.5 grams ground glass (fine sand is what it looks like, for $20; which is only 65g total. Perhaps some will see this as fools errand; they may even be correct. My motives remain unchanged though; and I think this is a great project to explore extreme weight accuracy in powder measurement. One could even try to weigh out priming compound; though I'm not sure I'll be overly concerned with that up front. I will weigh out each of the measured portions though; to see what the mix "really" is. The measurements certainly don't line up exactly with H-48 compound. Initial inspection of the dual purpose .22lr casting/crimping tool, show it was CNC machined for the most part; and then hand adjusted with a file. There is still a bit of dust in the cavities from that; which needs to be cleaned out before smoking. It absolutely needs at least one; if not two wooden handles fabricated for it to be reasonably functional. Expensive for what it is, but I don't have a good way to make those projectile molds myself. Are they cut with a custom tool (sure doesn't look like ball end mill work)? I've already messed with jamming a Lee mold cast 55 grain into a .22lr case. Seems to mostly fit; but won't chamber in my test rifle. Resizing might be the ticket though; and I've already got equipment for that. No sense letting a good crisis to go to waste (might as well learn something "new" while it's tough to find ammo/reloading components)...
  14. He even goes as far as calling them "assault rifle"; a term that has a real and specific definition. "noun: a rapid-fire, magazine-fed automatic rifle designed for infantry use." The short answer though; is "yes, they are all that stupid". Here are a few of my favorites:
  15. Lane

    Ammo

    Nobody casting their own buckshot?
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