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FOGeologist

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About FOGeologist

  • Birthday 01/10/1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Frederick, CO
  • Interests
    Cars, guns, conservative libertarian politics

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FOGeologist's Achievements

  1. Santa Claus : It's Lee Majors! The Six Million Dollar Man! Lee Majors : Santa, is there a back way outta this place? Santa Claus : Of course there is Lee, but this is one Santa who's going out the front door. Lee Majors : Look, it don't matter a hill of beans what happens to me but the world couldn't afford it if anything happened to you. Now stay put. Santa Claus : Oh that's very nice of you, Lee. And Lee... You've been a real good boy this year! Mrs. Claus : Yes you sure have!
  2. Thanks for all your help and guidance this year with my Ship of Theseus project. You guys have been great. Waiting for warmer weather to see if I can put out a nice load for that rifle.
  3. Have you had to use shims to time a handguard? You have to add them such that it holds off the nut rotating into torque value until one of the threaded holes is lined up (within maybe 2 degrees either way, they build a little slop in the handguard so you can have some room to rotate it enough to make a finely-adjusted alignment with the upper rail). It requires some patience to get it to where you have an opportunity to get the nut aligned. If you add too many shims, you may have to tighten the nut a LOT to get to the next hole. Too few and it will crank past the aligned position before you reach tension. My next handguard will be the clamp-on style. You can torque the nut to a nice 40 lbs and then clamp the guard on, using the groove in the nut to put the guard on at the desired angle - no "timing" needed. Not a fan of "reefing" on aluminum as it seems to put some stress on the whole assembly. I couldn't imaging cranking one to (what is the upper spec?) 80 foot-lbs? Holy CRAP!
  4. I've heard of that research that someone did - I'll probably pull the handguard and use shims to tighten the barrel enough to bring the value up over 40 or so.
  5. I think the relatively dark range and kooky optics of a pair of $7 shooting glasses they forced me to wear conspired to make the target hella-blurry. Plus the rushed feeling I was getting was not helpful to get me an opportunity to settle down, shoot effectively and take breaks to allow the barrel to cool was not helpful, either. Barrel has about 160 rounds through it. Clearly the brass shows much less damage from the feed ramp than the last shooting session, where the rifle was shooting better. No extraction or other issues after I brought the adjustable plug out 6 clicks from its previous location, seemingly a large adjustment, IMO. I'll develop some loads for the rifle to see if I can wear it in a bit better, but I'm thinking a 1.6 MOA barrel with FGMM may be about as good as it is going to get in the first place.
  6. Update: In another thread I described how I found out my PSA adjustable gas block was hitting the inside of my too-narrow Guntec free-float handguard. I sawed off the top 3" of the handguard around the gas block and now the barrel flexes without striking anything. Took the rifle out to Liberty Firearms Institute's indoor 100 yard rifle range and shot a box of Federal Power- Shock 180 grain, and a box of Federal Gold Medal 168 grain Sierra Matchking out of it. Here's the result. I did have to open the gas block up another 6 clicks to get the gun to run consistently. Curious. Results from the Power Shock 180 grain; I shot 4 x 5-round groups, achieving a 2.188 MOA average. Then, I shot a 5 x 4 round group, averaging 1.526 MOA: So, not so great, especially for a rifle shot indoors. Possible issues: set up took a while, and I was on the clock... the Range Officer was bearing down on me and forced me to wear safety glasses, and I could not see the crosshairs very well on this low-power (9x) scope indoors. I felt rushed and was banging out the last two groups in short time. The barrel was too hot to touch all the way through the shooting session. For a skinny barrel like a Faxon Big Gunner, with no wind (inside shooting) there was little chance to cool the barrel. It might be impossible to get better groups than this with this rifle in this configuration. I probably need a 14x or better scope. I probably should dump the barrel and get something more rigid, and get a better handguard that I can torque effectively without worrying about timing issues; this barrel is probably right at 30 foot-lbs and may not be lashed down tightly enough to prevent whip.
  7. Oh, God. Another thread that I'd need a degree in psychology to understand.
  8. All thanks to jtallen83! He suggested to another poster to check flex on his barrel. I had read his advice before but never considered that my gas block could hit the handguard. Boy, was I wrong! My goofy PSA adjustable gas block is lopsided, and I couldn’t tell because the handguard was blocking me from seeing it. I thought the unthinkable - “Could my gas block be hitting the inside of my Guntech handguard?” Yep. Easily. After my eyes were rolling like the digits on an old style gas pump, I chopped off the top front 3” from that thing and went to town sanding and touching up the handguard. No amount of barrel whip will cause it to strike anything now. Gotta get back out to the range to see if this brought the accuracy up.
  9. You know something? I had read your response before, but never considered this could be happening to me. Then, I grabbed the skinny 18" Faxon Big Gunner barrel on my rifle and flexed it... and the lop-sided, weirdly-shaped PSA adjustable gas block hit the inside of the handguard on the left. I know I'll be replacing the Guntec handguard soon, so I decided to hack off the top 3" of it. Now no amount of flexing of the barrel will allow it to hit the inside of the handguard. We'll see if there is any beneficial effect come next shoot.
  10. Holy LORD, you are gonna fit in well around here. Us geriatrics love to shake our canes at every post!
  11. Welcome from Frederick, Co.
  12. You can use the Federal Fusion rounds; the 150 grainers would be good for the smaller whitetails and hogs, but you could go with the 180 grain bullets if you're hunting some of the larger Western counterparts. The open nose on these rounds is tiny - probably 1/16th or 3/32nds of an inch. They don't seem to interact on the feed ramps of my rifle, and they are certainly "hunting accurate" (3.5 MOA to 1.6 MOA in my minimal testing), so you should get good performance at a price.
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