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Everything posted by 308USK

  1. Great Guns? Have not heard of that range; just looked that up. It's a ways north, but is also NOT out in "boonieville USA" like Pawnee (lol) and is about 45 minutes less driving (one-way) for me. That range looks like it could well be a good place to spend some time; is it very busy? Thanks for the heads up @FOGeologist!!!
  2. I zero for 200yds, as it is easier to do the math for further out (for me). For the .308 round, most ballistics charts I have looked at show the .308 round traveling flat to out 50yds, then a slight rise, then back across zero at 200yds as the bullet drop starts for real. So, for your question, I'd go with whatever scope zeroing process you have used in the past, as the muscle memory will be better overall. You can adjust better with what is familiar, rather than trying to learn a new distance for zeroing / problem identification, etc. I had intentions to go out to Pawnee Sportsman's Center this summer to use their long-distance range, to really dial in my rifle for distance...alas, life happened in a myriad of ways. (sad panda)
  3. Please give details on what components you have used, so that the brainiacs here can provide quality and accurate suggestions / advice.
  4. Yeah...precisely. I've got a lot of absolutely USELESS data like that in the various nooks & crannies in my noggin. Purging efforts have been fruitless.
  5. Could be worse; could be phone numbers AND addresses spanning back to the mid-to-late 60's (my brain really hurts! )
  6. Have you measured your gas port diameter with a digital caliper? If it is between .090 and .095 (based on what @98Z5V stated for my build, which is quite similar), then you're okay. IF NOT, then drill baby drill! (FWIW: My gas port diameter, measured with digital caliper, was .0835 from factory; rifle would not cycle normally. After much adoo, I drilled it out to .0945 and the rifle runs flawlessly!!!)
  7. Glad your rifle is up n runnin too! I used a toothpick to measure the distance from top of barrel outside to bottom inside of barrel, then split the distance in half and taped the drill bit at that distance (enough tape to prevent the bit from going in any deeper). Worked like a charm. :P
  8. Range Update (08/07/2022): Took the rifle to the range today (son wanted to go shoot his custom M4). Here's the details... 147gr --> Ejection at 3:20 150gr --> Ejection at 3:20 180gr --> Ejection at 3:30 On a whim, I decided to swap back to my JP Rifles SCS (buffer weight 5.6oz (2 steel, 1 tungsten) measured on digital scale). Shot all three round grains again; same ejection position. All in all, I am very content with how my rifle is working now. Again, thanks to ALL for the support, guidance, advice and banter. :)
  9. After looking at the video, I realized two things: 1) bipod was not perpendicular to the rifle and 2) as you stated, I was not pre-loading the bipod. Sloppy to say the least, but my main focus was really the cycling of the rifle. I will, however, incorporate that into my pre-shot routine, so that muscle-memory comes into play in short order! (love even more sage advice! :P)
  10. Yes it does (and you gotta be bored to watch that! LMAO); now I can fine-tune, get the scope sighted in for 200 yds and enjoy the new tool. This build as been an incredible learning experience, even with all of the stupid $hit that comes with first builds!
  11. In case anyone is REALLY (REALLY) bored, here is the video I shot, to check the ejection location:
  12. Thanks! Advice was the biggest part. The fact that I have researched a dozen barrel Mfr's and all of them are making their gas port TOO SMALL (comparing 18" barrels, since that is what I am familiar with given my situation and experience). I am grateful for all the sage wisdom, discussion and banter too!
  13. WE HAVE PROPER CYCLING!!!!!! Started with AGB wide open; after first 2 rounds to verify cycling, I closed AGB down to factory 'starting' position (18 clicks for Superlative Arms AGB) and shot 12 rounds! Ejection at 3:30 position (I shot video to verify ejection position) ! WAAAAAHHHHOOOOO
  14. Post DRILL BABY DRILL update (LOL) Got prepared by using a toothpick and measuring from outside top of barrel to bottom inside of barrel, marking the toothpic at the top of barrel. Then took that and halved the distance (for safety measures) and taped the drill bit at the 1/2 length to prevent going any further. Started to drill the gas port using the #42 bit with my cordless drill/screwdriver, got a little ways in and the battery croaked. Zipped over to Lowe's (5 min away) and bought a corded drill (military discount helps some). Got back, re-started drilling...slowly and methodically. After just a few minutes, I was through and had NOT touched the inside bottom of the barrel at all. :) Went back in the house and ran my Bore Snake with CLP through the barrel 3x. Before I re-assembled, I used some canned air to blow through the gas tube. I then started the process of re-assembling. As I put the gas tub into the gas block, I watch VERY CLOSELY for the end of the tube, then the roll-pin hole. Once that was properly aligned, I used a pin punch to go through the hole and check the alignment inside the upper (see post drill-out of gas port pic). As I look at the Pre drill-out of gas port pic, I do think that the gas tube was not properly set in the gas block!! Once the gas tube and block were pinned and set, I once again used canned air (AGB wide open) and was able to feel air coming out the muzzle end! That said, I also believe the gas port was NOT the correct size from the factory. Using the #42 bit, I now have a gas port that is 0.0945" (see pic). Have completed the re-assembly, ensured the BCG was well lubed and AGB wide open, I will go to the range tomorrow after work and run 3-5 rounds through the rifle to check cycling. Once I have a rifle that properly cycles, I can begin the process of fine-tuning. :) Again, I totally appreciate the knowledge and advice from y'all! Further update(s) after the range tomorrow!
  15. Yeah...that gas port is just bugging my brain! The more I think about that, the more I think I may drill to #42 and re-assemble, take to the range and see how it cycles. Not difficult to disassemble and go a wee-bit more with the #41, should it cycle but not great. Plus, I can always drill out to #41 and install new Armalite Rifle Length gas tube once it comes in, to be 100% certain things are squared away.
  16. Thanks Brother! I'll proceed down this path. I did, just for sanity sake, order a couple of Armalite Rifle Length gas tubes (never hurts to have spare parts). Will re-assemble, slow-n-steady, open up the gas block and head to the range for 3-5 rounds down-range to check rifle cycling.
  17. So...update #2: Started taking the rifle apart, so that I could drill out the gas port, as the rifle was still not cycling after installing 'factory' spring & buffer. Interesting development as I was taking the gas block off; the gas tube came OUT of the gas block, despite the PIN being in the block and I am 2,000% certain the gas tube was properly pinned as both myself and my brother checked it after setting the roll pin. I took a couple pics of the roll pin; it seems to be 'okay' though I am considering replacing, just to be safe. Now for the even MORE interesting part: Took my digital caliper and measured the gas port, 3 times. The attached pic shows the measurement I got 2 of the 3 times. SO...now, the questions are: Do I re-use the gas tube or buy a new gas tube? Re-install gas tube (ensuring the tube is pinned) > re-install the gas block > open gas block up wide open > go to range and put 3-5 rounds down-range? Drill out gas port even though the gas tube was not pinned, as we all know that for an 18" rifle-length barrel, the gas port needs to be 0.090" -> 0.096" Rather than blast through this and just drill baby drill, I felt it wise to consult the community of knowledge first! Thanks in advance - - Pete aka 308USK
  18. Yep, I have that 411 bookmarked, as well as in a Note pinned to my tablet, so the info is always readily acceptable.!!! :)
  19. I know just the place (my Dad called it the 'toy store' when I was growing up). :P I'll make a trip to the toy store and buy both a #42 & #41 (possibly a few in the range, for sizing before drilling). Thank you for the reply!! FWIW, I'm a little surprised that AP makes barrels that are not properly sized for their gas port (just looked at the 20" .308 barrel and it's gas port is also .0890" (facepalm).
  20. @98Z5V and everyone else update: Got the new spring & buffer weight in last Friday; got 'em installed yesterday. Lubed up the BCG during re-assembly. Went to the range today, to see what changes, if any, would come (also opened up the gas block all the way). No changes. :'( I have also looked at the specs on Aero Precision's site, for the barrel I have. I believe the gas port is NOT big enough (dammit). That said...probably need a #42 bit, correct?? Best place to acquire?
  21. Gotta come to CO for that...but if you're here, range time is ALWAYS on the table.
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