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About HotRod308

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  1. HotRod308

    6.5 Creedmoor short stroking

    I'm probably way the heck off cause I don''t know all that measurements of which parts go with what stuff and I didn't read all the other post that in depth. So if I repeat something don't get all bent over me. Been in the hospital all day with my wife sitting with her. just trying to relax but here's a 2 cent shot how I look at this problem. But maybe no solution. There is some fancy video on you tube talking about under gas or over gas based on where the brass is getting kicked out. If its to slow, port to small, I think it's at 5 oclock? To fast at 2 oclock, just right at 3 oclock. So where does your brass go? If its at 3 oclock and not locking back maybe not the right parts. Heck I don't know . Just a food for thought. Maybe one of the other guys could out a nickel thought on this. A short story, I had a 260 cal that would short stroke but would function fine with one load at the low end, like 38.0g 4350 and a 123g bullet. Soon as you added more powder the rifle short stroked. It had all all the standard buffer and spring and A2 stock, rifle length gas system, 20 inch barrel. What I figured out was the gas port was to small 080. As more powder was added, the bullet speed increased. When it did, the bullet left the bore before enough gas went through the gas port to the BCG to operate. I had an adjustable gas port and had it wide open as well. So, I drilled it to .092 then it worked and even had to turn the gas port down and use it like it should be used. You could have all the right parts, just not enough gas. But I don't know nothing most of the time anyway.
  2. HotRod308

    What I did this past weekend, Pillar bed Rem 700

    What I like about the scorehigh product is the pillars are adjustable in length so there so no cutting or grinding for fitting for each stock. The tools that comes for the first kit are reusable as long as you don't screw up during the process of bedding and not put clay putty in the correct spots during the bedding process. Then the pillars are bedded or put in at the same time the receiver is glass bedded to the stock. So the finished result is the pillars being perfectly flush with the bedding of the receiver, so when you torque the action screw down the floor plate contacts the pillar and bedding around it into the stock. The receiver contacts the pillar on the other side of the pillar and bedding around it and along the length of the receiver to the other end to the other pillar. This way, once you torque to 40 to 50 inch lbs with zero zero tolerance between the bedding and the receiver there is absolutely no chance the receiver can move at all. Then with a 20 MOA scope mount attached (one can glass bed that to) makes the action that more rigged. The smoothness of the glass bedding comes from putting the bedding material in the stock and on the receiver as well. When applying on the receiver make sure you apply in a way you don't create an air pocket. When you put the receiver into the stock the bedding contacts each other flows together and oozes out. Wipe off excessive, I use finger nail polish remover, which has 10% acetone by volume. I use Johnson floor past wax as a release agent. I apply thick onto the receiver then wipe it off so I don't see it any more. That micro film of wax is all you need to break the action out of the stock. If you have a lot of release agent of the action, you are just putting clearance back between the receiver and the stock, why even bed the rifle then. I use ductape around the barrel to support the action and it also centers the barrel in the barrel channel as well. That's pretty much how I do it. Slight variations if the person doesn't want pillars installed or how much material has to be removed from the stock depending on the reason. Ill take a photo or two when I'm done with it.
  3. Thought I share a few photos of my pillar bedding that I did on a Rem 700 in a McMillan stock this past weekend. Still need to clean it up yet and do final work. I realize everyone has their own way of installing pillars in rifle stocks just thought I show how mine turned out. Realize this form is mostly is for Big AR rifles. Anyway, installed score high pillars using marine tex compound for the bedding and Johnson floor wax past for the release agent.
  4. HotRod308

    Barrel bedding

    I think my trigger finger has the a case of dumb ass some times then.
  5. HotRod308

    Barrel bedding

    Its just one item to do out of a list of things to do to get all the accuracy possible out either platform regardless of caliber being fired. Quality of barrel, match grade bullets and components, A BCG that unlocks cleanly and consistently each time and well lubricated. Tight fitting upper to lower fit., nice crisp trigger, excellent scope. But just adding loctight without half of the other stuff or none of it, might not see any difference at all. I would be curious if others would rate what items would give bigger improvement over others. Adding loctight is like following a procedure, it just makes sense to me, is it measurable, good question.
  6. HotRod308

    Barrel bedding

    You must use full strength Acetone then. I always grabbed my wife's finger nail polish remover as it had acetone 10% by volume and it wasn't hard on gunstock finish unless it was paint. Got a test before you go hog wild. Never thought of locthight 609, another good tip.
  7. HotRod308

    Barrel bedding

    I used low grade loctight. a light coating on the inside of the upper mating surface and light coating on the barrel extension. Insert, wipe of any that oozes out and apply torque, remember to wipe out inside of the upper as well. The reasoning I did it, is the same reason is why we glass bed bolt action rifles. We want zero zero tolerance fit, but not a press fit. Although the barrel nut tightens shoulder to the face of the upper, it doesn't remove the slip fit into the upper. The loctight fills the void and makes it solid fit. No chance of any movement at all. Yeah taken it apart later on can be a pain but a little heat does the trick DO NOT USE HIGH STRENGTH LOCTIGHT that requires near blow torch temps like red HOT glow to melt that high stength loctight. You only use that RED stuff on someones rifle that you don't like and will never see again. JUST KIDDING>
  8. HotRod308

    Enfield No 4 Mark 1 Gunsmith Recommendation

    For the Vintage sniper rifle matches one has to use period correct mounts, there actual rules with list of rifles and scopes one can use. They make the reproduction mount and scope for the No 32 scope for the rifle the trick is getting it installed and it being usable at all distances. I did find a gunsmith that has done a few of them so far. I just found out that Griffin & Howe who made the M1C scope mount for the Garand is still in business and still will install a mount on your garand for only $277.00 they make reproduction mounts and M-82 scopes. Numrich gun parts has the mounts.
  9. I'm in need of gunsmith that has experience mounting No 32 sniper scope and mounts on a Enfield No 4 mark 1 rifle. If you know of any gunsmith taht has the experience and knowledge to do this correctly, please let me know. Thank you.
  10. HotRod308

    Need a scope for a new rifle

    Are you in the military or have been, if so..... you need to check the prices on "expert voice" https://www.experticity.com/home/tab/feed just need to provide proper documentation DD214 you will be saving money.
  11. HotRod308

    Bullet Runout

    I have been thinking after buying high quality Redding or RCBS match dies you think all you need to do is but right size bushing and reload ammo and everything thing is just great. Then one day your shooting along doing fine and you start shooting some what I call crazy Ivan shots. not even on call. So you go back and you get the old bullet run out dail indicator gauge out and you find out out that some of your loaded rounds are .006 run and some a little more. So whats wrong, I removed the expander ball and put the small one in, but that means I have to use a punch or dummy round to straighten and necks that are dented inward before sizing. But if it makes it better, so be it. But while I did that I find a whole bunch of resizing lube up in the bushing, it wasn't free floating around. So lesson learned, clean my sizing die after every few hundred case, doesn't take long. Good practice. Still my run on a few were still .005 most were under .003 some were spot on .001. But why those .005 yet. Took a flashlight looked up inside and saw what looked like brass particles. So I took the custom seating die apart. Yes, brass was there and crud up in the seating stem as well. All that crap up there probably not allowing the bullet to stay straight while being seated. Once everything was re-cleaned, made a dummy round and bullet runout was less than .001. Although I haven't made a new batch of ammo to check yet, I feel I just may have finally figured it out. Even my standard seating die once cleaned did way better to the point were I may have never bought a custom seating die so many years ago. Bottom line, clean your dies!!!
  12. HotRod308

    Looking for barrel

    I had a wild cat 6mm LR rifle with the gas port moved fwd 2 inches as the barrel was 26 inch. It worked fine that way. CLE out of Florida has the opinion that moving the gas system fwd is not worth the trouble it could cause. Although I never saw any problems but when you build rifles one might see them more often. But the 6.5 creedmoor using H4350 will have plenty of gas volume to run the BCG as long as the port is big enough. I have 24 inch barrel on my 7mm-08 and rifle length gas system and I have plenty of accuracy. Going to mid range match this weekend 20 shots at 300yds, then 2 each 20 shot strings at 600yds, scope one day and irons the next day, Gotta load ammo this week.
  13. HotRod308

    Looking for barrel

    I always believed that long range shooting that a longer barrel is better even though they are those who don't think so. Anyway, 1-7 would help keep those big BC bullets sping fast enough when you can't shoot them as hard as a bolt gun can. Curious on the competition do you plan making the rifle shoot from mag length or single load so you move that bullet out fwd of the mag closer to the lands? I was going to suggest if mag length was a requirement to think about buying a 6mm creedmoor, then everything you shoot would be mag length. The BC on those bullets are very high and you its easier to get those up to speed as well. I had great luck with my x caliber 7mm-08 barrel on my LR. My last string at 600 yds was 200-13X out of 20 shots for record I had only 3 shots not within the 6 inch high xring and I shot 9 x's in a row using iron sights. I used 160g TMK bullets .050 off the lands.
  14. HotRod308

    GWLA M14 build

    Very Very nice indeed!!
  15. HotRod308

    GWLA M14 build

    Fulton armory sells shims sets for the gas system so you shim the gas system off the shoulder of the barrel so the gas port of the gas cylinder is perfectly centered over the gas port. Also, talk to them about unitizing the gas system. They can drill two small holes tap them so the end plate is attached to the gas system. Another way was to weld them. The last way, I new of was to use red lock-tight. Clean to remove all oils, place on barrel, apply red lock tight to area to be joined, tighten figure eight very tight for 24 hrs. You wouldn't think it would work but it does considering it's still under pressure when its its installed for real. One has to install the gas system without over torque the figure 8, if you do you bend the barrel ever so slightly.