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About HotRod308

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  1. The biggest tip for long brass life is to is not to over work the brass during the reszing process. Buy a case measuring tool and measure the fired case and only resize only .002 to .003 smaller than the fired case measurement. Use a bushing die so that neck is only reduced to the correct amount of neck tension usually .001 (kind of light tension) .002 (medium) anything after that is a lot of neck tension and you are over working the brass. The expander button will thin out the necks over time which is why you have to trim the brass back to correct length. I use .002 neck tension for ammo feeding from the mag and ,001 for single loading for slow fire stage at 600yds. Higher pressure loads, the case will measure a little bigger than normal loaded round. Faster powders are harder on the brass than slower powders. I quit counting how many reloads I get out of any of my big AR's I load for, but it's probably around 15 to 18 reloads before I get rid of them. Usually the primer pockets get to loose or once the neck thins out they start to crack. Don't worry about it, just set up the dies correctly and it will be fine.
  2. I never could tell if the BCG moved either. One could measure the fired case using the Hornady case measuring tool from the shoulder to the base of the cartridge then compare to a brand new case. It should be ,002 to .005 if theey did a good job machining the chamber. Some rifles can be right at .001 but not many. Anyway, if it's in this ball park the head space is most likely good. If brass comes out smaller than it went in, I say the finishing reamer didn't get used at all. It is possible to have gas pressure but not enough to over come a case thats to big to fit the chamber. All the energy is used up getting it moving but nothing left to go all the way back. Based on the words he had to mortar the rifle to get the rifle to unlock sounds like the chamber is to small maybe?
  3. I don't remember if it was Leupold or Vortex when I called them about a military discount, they referred me to either govtx discount program or experticity web site. Then Nightforce requires you to send your drivers lic with the special marking on it identifying one's self as a veteran, after that they send you a discount price list. Do you go direct to Vortex then? That's a good discount by far, saving money to buy more bullets is a good thing. Good luck to you Sir.
  4. Welcome as well. I made a M110 clone and have several match rifles. Your going to like it.
  5. Curious to what for? I assume some kind of problem?
  6. If you were in the military one can get a pretty good discount at https://www.experticity.com/sign-in will need info from your DD214 to sign up
  7. I'm probably way the heck off cause I don''t know all that measurements of which parts go with what stuff and I didn't read all the other post that in depth. So if I repeat something don't get all bent over me. Been in the hospital all day with my wife sitting with her. just trying to relax but here's a 2 cent shot how I look at this problem. But maybe no solution. There is some fancy video on you tube talking about under gas or over gas based on where the brass is getting kicked out. If its to slow, port to small, I think it's at 5 oclock? To fast at 2 oclock, just right at 3 oclock. So where does your brass go? If its at 3 oclock and not locking back maybe not the right parts. Heck I don't know . Just a food for thought. Maybe one of the other guys could out a nickel thought on this. A short story, I had a 260 cal that would short stroke but would function fine with one load at the low end, like 38.0g 4350 and a 123g bullet. Soon as you added more powder the rifle short stroked. It had all all the standard buffer and spring and A2 stock, rifle length gas system, 20 inch barrel. What I figured out was the gas port was to small 080. As more powder was added, the bullet speed increased. When it did, the bullet left the bore before enough gas went through the gas port to the BCG to operate. I had an adjustable gas port and had it wide open as well. So, I drilled it to .092 then it worked and even had to turn the gas port down and use it like it should be used. You could have all the right parts, just not enough gas. But I don't know nothing most of the time anyway.
  8. What I like about the scorehigh product is the pillars are adjustable in length so there so no cutting or grinding for fitting for each stock. The tools that comes for the first kit are reusable as long as you don't screw up during the process of bedding and not put clay putty in the correct spots during the bedding process. Then the pillars are bedded or put in at the same time the receiver is glass bedded to the stock. So the finished result is the pillars being perfectly flush with the bedding of the receiver, so when you torque the action screw down the floor plate contacts the pillar and bedding around it into the stock. The receiver contacts the pillar on the other side of the pillar and bedding around it and along the length of the receiver to the other end to the other pillar. This way, once you torque to 40 to 50 inch lbs with zero zero tolerance between the bedding and the receiver there is absolutely no chance the receiver can move at all. Then with a 20 MOA scope mount attached (one can glass bed that to) makes the action that more rigged. The smoothness of the glass bedding comes from putting the bedding material in the stock and on the receiver as well. When applying on the receiver make sure you apply in a way you don't create an air pocket. When you put the receiver into the stock the bedding contacts each other flows together and oozes out. Wipe off excessive, I use finger nail polish remover, which has 10% acetone by volume. I use Johnson floor past wax as a release agent. I apply thick onto the receiver then wipe it off so I don't see it any more. That micro film of wax is all you need to break the action out of the stock. If you have a lot of release agent of the action, you are just putting clearance back between the receiver and the stock, why even bed the rifle then. I use ductape around the barrel to support the action and it also centers the barrel in the barrel channel as well. That's pretty much how I do it. Slight variations if the person doesn't want pillars installed or how much material has to be removed from the stock depending on the reason. Ill take a photo or two when I'm done with it.
  9. Thought I share a few photos of my pillar bedding that I did on a Rem 700 in a McMillan stock this past weekend. Still need to clean it up yet and do final work. I realize everyone has their own way of installing pillars in rifle stocks just thought I show how mine turned out. Realize this form is mostly is for Big AR rifles. Anyway, installed score high pillars using marine tex compound for the bedding and Johnson floor wax past for the release agent.
  10. I think my trigger finger has the a case of dumb ass some times then.
  11. Its just one item to do out of a list of things to do to get all the accuracy possible out either platform regardless of caliber being fired. Quality of barrel, match grade bullets and components, A BCG that unlocks cleanly and consistently each time and well lubricated. Tight fitting upper to lower fit., nice crisp trigger, excellent scope. But just adding loctight without half of the other stuff or none of it, might not see any difference at all. I would be curious if others would rate what items would give bigger improvement over others. Adding loctight is like following a procedure, it just makes sense to me, is it measurable, good question.
  12. You must use full strength Acetone then. I always grabbed my wife's finger nail polish remover as it had acetone 10% by volume and it wasn't hard on gunstock finish unless it was paint. Got a test before you go hog wild. Never thought of locthight 609, another good tip.
  13. I used low grade loctight. a light coating on the inside of the upper mating surface and light coating on the barrel extension. Insert, wipe of any that oozes out and apply torque, remember to wipe out inside of the upper as well. The reasoning I did it, is the same reason is why we glass bed bolt action rifles. We want zero zero tolerance fit, but not a press fit. Although the barrel nut tightens shoulder to the face of the upper, it doesn't remove the slip fit into the upper. The loctight fills the void and makes it solid fit. No chance of any movement at all. Yeah taken it apart later on can be a pain but a little heat does the trick DO NOT USE HIGH STRENGTH LOCTIGHT that requires near blow torch temps like red HOT glow to melt that high stength loctight. You only use that RED stuff on someones rifle that you don't like and will never see again. JUST KIDDING>
  14. For the Vintage sniper rifle matches one has to use period correct mounts, there actual rules with list of rifles and scopes one can use. They make the reproduction mount and scope for the No 32 scope for the rifle the trick is getting it installed and it being usable at all distances. I did find a gunsmith that has done a few of them so far. I just found out that Griffin & Howe who made the M1C scope mount for the Garand is still in business and still will install a mount on your garand for only $277.00 they make reproduction mounts and M-82 scopes. Numrich gun parts has the mounts.
  15. I'm in need of gunsmith that has experience mounting No 32 sniper scope and mounts on a Enfield No 4 mark 1 rifle. If you know of any gunsmith taht has the experience and knowledge to do this correctly, please let me know. Thank you.
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