Gas block questions

[bubbas4570]

Maybe this has been done before here, but I went back a ways (probably not far enough) and didn't find anything on this topic, so here goes......

 

I am a bit old school, hard headed, and possibly a bit retarded, but I tend to want a pinned gas block on my ARs.  Mostly due to my not having to worry about screws loosening up, the tolerances changing due to heat (aluminum blocks), and other things going wrong at the worst time.  I have had nothing but milspec front gas block sight towers on all my previous builds, and now was going to have my current build redone with a pinned front sight tower to make it "pinned" and not aluminum.  I just found out that my low profile gas block is actually steel, but is screwed on to the barrel.  

My question is:  would just pinning the current block work as well as a milspec gas block that I have cut off, or just do the work and go to the milspec gas block?  A third option that I want to know is.....using the factory low profile block, how about making sure everything is correctly installed, and then stake the screws to keep from having whatever version of loktite is used from releasing (heat or water immersion)?

[98Z5V]

2 hours ago, bubbas4570 said:

My question is:  would just pinning the current block work as well as a milspec gas block that I have cut off, or just do the work and go to the milspec gas block? 

Good topic, and good questions.  First, if you had the milspec front sight gas block on there (A frame and whatever companies call them now), that is absolutely the most bombproof way to secure that thing to your barrel.  Both those pins are tapered, and literally lock that thing on your barrel.  There is no other "more secure" way to attach anything to your barrel.  If absolute bombproof is the goal, I'd cut that sucker down, and pound those tapered pins back in there. 

For the lo-pro gas block, and pinning it - gonna be hard to do, just to drill it.  It would have to be secured with the set screws, locked in a vise, anf hit with a drill press, then roll-pinned in place.  Think Geissele Super Gas Block. 

Now THAT THING ^^^, you can drill that barrel with a hand drill, and install that gas block, pinned.  I've done it to several of mine.  I just don't see a way to do that with a standard lo-pro, because there's not gonna be a flat there, to drill into.  On the Geissele, you have the direct pilot hole right there in front of you, so hand drilling is easy.  On a standard lo-pro, you'd need it locked in a vise or jig, and you have to start that pilot hole on an angled surface of the gas block.  That's where Mister Drill Press comes in.

Hope that makes sense - let's keep this going and figure it out.  

[jim3326]

If you chuck up a 3/16" end mill you can make a flat.

[98Z5V]

1 hour ago, jim3326 said:

If you chuck up a 3/16" end mill you can make a flat.

That would be the exact perfect size, too, if you use the Geissele instructions for installing one of their 5/32 coil pins, or a 5/32 roll pin from Ace Hardware. 

Here's the Geissele info:

https://geissele.com/amfile/file/download/file/9317aa42f90e53a906015028af61719d/product/42/

Edited July 19, 2023 by 98Z5V

[bubbas4570]

I can say that the gas block that I am questioning is a PSA low profile version that came on the upper I have.  It is steel, and just screwed in place, so the screws got my attention first, then I checked to see what the material of the block was.

 

I do have some of the old A-frames setting around, and maybe that would be easiest for the modification (a real gunsmith job....I tend to hammer screws in 😝).

 

BUT, if the mod isn't too hard to just drill and pin.....then either way he is gonna have to do some work.

[98Z5V]

17 hours ago, bubbas4570 said:

I do have some of the old A-frames setting around, and maybe that would be easiest for the modification (a real gunsmith job....I tend to hammer screws in 😝).

If you wanna convert over to that, I have a pretty solid way of attaching one.  I wrote it up here awhile ago, and I'm getting ready to mod another one for @JBMatt.  Here's the writeup, on what I do to them.  It's simple, really is.

 

[bubbas4570]

My only "fear" is from using either locktite or rockset is this.....locktite is removed with heat, and rockset is removed with water.....maybe I am retarded (like I said) but I am thinking the pinning is more solid, long term.   Or just REALLY overthinking something that is not needed.   

 

And to re-ask a question, staking these small screws.....is that actually something that would work to "set" them permanently?  And I am not forgetting the dimples on the barrel....just to head off a question here.

[bubbas4570]

6 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

If you wanna convert over to that, I have a pretty solid way of attaching one.  I wrote it up here awhile ago, and I'm getting ready to mod another one for @JBMatt.  Here's the writeup, on what I do to them.  It's simple, really is.

 

My A frame sight is the actual pinned style, ready to go....just once used.  And all the hardware is there, pins, sights, even have a tube (just the wrong length......

[98Z5V]

16 hours ago, bubbas4570 said:

And to re-ask a question, staking these small screws.....is that actually something that would work to "set" them permanently?  And I am not forgetting the dimples on the barrel....just to head off a question here.

Indeed, it works, and works very, very well.  I do it on the lo-pro gas blocks once I have the gun figured out.  Once the gun is straight - completely, totally - that's the last step I make in "finishing" the gun.  I forgot to answer that part, and I no-sheit woke up last night and thought about that.  Of course, I was tired, and said "I'll get back to that tomorrow."  ...And I was back out...  

[bubbas4570]

🤣🤣🤣🍻

[98Z5V]

This is my preferred staking tool.   Works great on gas blocks, but get the right angle.  It "mangles" castle nuts and endplates perfectly, as well. 

[Turd Furgeson]

On 7/19/2023 at 12:22 AM, 98Z5V said:

Good topic, and good questions.  First, if you had the milspec front sight gas block on there (A frame and whatever companies call them now), that is absolutely the most bombproof way to secure that thing to your barrel.  Both those pins are tapered, and literally lock that thing on your barrel.  There is no other "more secure" way to attach anything to your barrel.  If absolute bombproof is the goal, I'd cut that sucker down, and pound those tapered pins back in there. 

For the lo-pro gas block, and pinning it - gonna be hard to do, just to drill it.  It would have to be secured with the set screws, locked in a vise, anf hit with a drill press, then roll-pinned in place.  Think Geissele Super Gas Block. 

Now THAT THING ^^^, you can drill that barrel with a hand drill, and install that gas block, pinned.  I've done it to several of mine.  I just don't see a way to do that with a standard lo-pro, because there's not gonna be a flat there, to drill into.  On the Geissele, you have the direct pilot hole right there in front of you, so hand drilling is easy.  On a standard lo-pro, you'd need it locked in a vise or jig, and you have to start that pilot hole on an angled surface of the gas block.  That's where Mister Drill Press comes in.

Hope that makes sense - let's keep this going and figure it out.  

I always pin.   This GB is my go to.  Also use a jig and drill press.  Geissele calls it their bombproof installation.

[bubbas4570]

15 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

This is my preferred staking tool.   Works great on gas blocks, but get the right angle.  It "mangles" castle nuts and endplates perfectly, as well. 

Works for me!  I have one of those, and mine has been used on many things......never thought about it for this purpose.

[bubbas4570]

3 hours ago, Turd Furgeson said:

I always pin.   This GB is my go to.  Also use a jig and drill press.  Geissele calls it their bombproof installation.

Just in case someone like me didn't read the Geissele manual for  their gas block install, here it is:

 

https://geissele.com/amfile/file/download/file/9317aa42f90e53a906015028af61719d/product/42/

[98Z5V]

9 hours ago, Turd Furgeson said:

Also use a jig and drill press.  Geissele calls it their bombproof installation.

You will not "need" a jig and drill press to do a Geissele Super Gas Block - a hand drill handles that task quite well, and it's incredibly easy.  I've done 1/2 dozen of those with just a hand drill, free-hand, no jig necessary.  It's the design of that particular gas block - wide, flat area for the roll pin, big fat pilot hole is already there, and all the way through the gas block.  Just use a good bit, go slow and light pressure, like you were upsizing a gas port in a barrel. 

[Turd Furgeson]

I'm sure you're right... just anal-retentive.  To your point on design.... I've often wondered if it would actually be better than a jig.  Meaning, with a hand drill, the design of the GB would properly feed the bit, as you point out.  I think I'll try it the next time.  Thanks.