@BigNate I like what you're doing! This is going to be awesome. You have quite the list of potential optics, and you're headed in the right direction. It all depends on how far you want to try and stretch that thing out by dialing. With the right amount of pre-MOA cant, you can reach out pretty far with just about anything on that list.
I've hit out to 2,300ish yds with less than what you have listed there. I've done it with the Athlon Cronus (which is beautiful), an Arken SH-4J and an Athlon Ares. I've shot through a MK4 and MK5 and both are great. What all these have in common is they all have (same with your list above) an internal travel of around 32 MILS, give or take. If you have the right amount of MOA built into the rail and the mount, you can nearly bottom out the scope with a 100 zero and have ALL the internal up travel for dialing. 30ish MILS is a lot. But it will limit your potential for the really long distances. But that may not matter to you.
We put the Zeiss LRP S3 ($2,300ish) on my girlfriends 300 Norma Magnum. It has a 20 MOA base and 40 MOA mount. I did all the maths (carry the 2...) and with what is available this is what I came up with for that set up. That glass has 55 MILS of internal travel, the only one that I know of unless you get into the uber premium stuff, and still it's right there. After zeroing at 100, it currently has 45 MILS of actual dial left over. That gives this setup the ability to dial somewhere in the 2800+ range. That's a long ways with a 100 yd zero, which is exactly what we were going for. Only having 32 MILS of total adjustment would limit dialing to right around 2,500 yds, which is still a long ways.
So you have some decisions to make. I'd get the best glass you can justify with a reticle that makes sense to you. Buy once, cry once. I know @Magwa is happy with his Razor, as he should be. It's a premium piece of glass. I'm happy with my Cronus, too. Leopold is great. And the Zeiss is absolutely gorgeous. We make all these shot in the 16x-18x range. Until it happens, I can't see going over 20x. However, what's nice about having a scope that can zoom to over 24x, is I believe that when you're in the lower end to middle of the zoom range, the image is better than if you turn an 18x all the way up to max. Or even a 24x turned up to 20x. The closer you get to the glass' max, the worse the image becomes regardless of quality. Some more so than others, of course. What we experience at the higher powers (20x+) is the mirage becomes exponentially worse and the returns diminish quickly, no matter the quality of the optic. Plus the ability to keep the target in view to spot impacts/misses is harder when you're zoomed way in.
34mm tube is a must, and most all of the best scopes have that. Makes a HUGE difference over a 30mm tube. More light transfer, clearer image, more available dial and wider field of view. 50mm or 56mm objective is up to you. It can or can't be a benefit. The scope can only use as much light as can fit in the tube, so sometimes a bigger objective doesn't make any real world difference. Some guys say 56mm is just a gimmick. But they look cool!
This is all just my opinion and experience. Take it for what it's worth.
I can hardly wait for Fall Shoot! This is going to be EPIC!!