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About half way done with my build!!!


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I have started to piece together my .308 AR.  I have a CMMG lower with a DPMS upper.  The upper has a JP/Viking Tactical rifle length Freefloat forearm with a full rail on top and 2" rail on the bottom. I have a Miad Grip kit in CB and a VLTOR IMOD for a Stock to put on.  The lower has a DPMS parts group.  I have yet to get a Bolt and Bolt carrier, Buffer and Spring, Barrel and a scope mount and scope.  I slapped on the flip up sites for now. Its a little quiet over here so I thought I would post something up.

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That thing looks good already.  <thumbsup>

Watch out the the MIAD - I'm not sure how CMMG does the takedown detent, but if it's under the grip (and not through the back, like an AR-15), you'll probably have to set-screw it.  Very simple process, if that's the case.  No worries. 

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The takedown detent is under the grip.  It is a small problem putting the MIAD on, but I pushed the grip down just right and got it to work!!  So what is this about a set screw?  Im thinking that you tap the small hole where the spring goes in and put a set screw on top of the spring to hold it in. That would work, if that is what you are saying?  Let me know and let me know the size of the hole and set screw if you already got that also...Thanks.....

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  So what is this about a set screw?  Im thinking that you tap the small hole where the spring goes in and put a set screw on top of the spring to hold it in.

Read this whole thread through - it explains how to do it with a 4-40 set screw, and with a 6-32 set screw.  Pics are there for the 4-40, but I didn't add any pics of mine with the 6-32.  If there's any questions, fire them off in this thread and I'll get right on them.  <thumbsup>

http://308ar.com/forum/index.php/topic,74.0.html

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That is a great idea!  I will be doing that to mine.  Also, my selector switch turns from safe to fire and back, very hard?  It looks like the surface of the selector switch where the pin rides is very rough and the pin tip is kind of chewed up.  Should I replace both of these?  It works fine, but is hard to turn?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got my Larue Gas Block, Kaiser 16" Barrel  with Mid length Gas tube, Smith Enterprise Flash Hider.  I am putting it all together today and should have some pics up tomorrow. I still have to figure out if the JP Bolt group is worth the money.  It says it calms the felt recoil with their buffer, but not sure without the buffer.  I have one of the HeavyBuffers with a spring coming also.  Its all finally coming together.  Also, I have to get a mount and a scope or just shoot it with my flip up sites for now.  I will get the pics up tomorrow though...Thanks!!!  I have to go watch the Steelers kick some ass right now!!!

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It should be smaller than the hole on the gas block - gas blocks are made to accomodate everything, so it's "worst case scenario" with the holes in them.  Made as large as the largest possible drilling of a gas port on a barrel.  That way they work on everything out there.

I'm just curious about that gas system on a 16" .308 barrel.  Gas port size would be critical the shorter you go on the gas system.  The 16" Fulton Kreiger barrel with rifle-length gas is the testament to short .308 barrels and long gas systems - with your setup, I'd just like to know what they did with the gas port size in the barrel.  If the gas block hasn't been mounted yet, and you can still measure it, that would be very cool.  <thumbsup>

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Hmmm...  That's 0.0625".  Seems small when I think of AR-15 gas port sizes, but this is a .308. 

survivalshop (hope you're reading this, man!  ;D) - did you happen to measure your gas port hole in your 16" Fulton Krieger rifle-gas barrel? 

Again guys, this isn't major - it's just my curiousity.  :o  Nothing bad, I'm just trying to see what the different manufacturers are doing.  my Fulton Krieger 18.5" barrel kicks like Van Damme, and I didn't think to measure the gas port hole before I put it all together.  I do on every other build since then, though.  <thumbsup>

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Hmmm...  That's 0.0625".  Seems small when I think of AR-15 gas port sizes, but this is a .308. 

survivalshop (hope you're reading this, man!  ;D) - did you happen to measure your gas port hole in your 16" Fulton Krieger rifle-gas barrel? 

Again guys, this isn't major - it's just my curiousity.  :o  Nothing bad, I'm just trying to see what the different manufacturers are doing.  my Fulton Krieger 18.5" barrel kicks like Van Damme, and I didn't think to measure the gas port hole before I put it all together.  I do on every other build since then, though.  <thumbsup>

What is your thoughts on the JP Bolt Group?  I am thinking of picking one up for this build?  I think the finish is much better than any others out there for wear and tear? As far as the low mass part, it may lessen the felt recoil and adding that to my "HeavyBuffer" setup I have coming, it may make a difference? What do you think?

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I'm pretty sure that if you use the JP Low Mass bolt carrier, you need to use the rest of the parts that are designed as the group.  The whole Low Mass Operating System, so Low Mass Buffer and buffer spring, too.  Just having a light carrier would make the thing kick more, I'd think.

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Hmmm...  That's 0.0625".  Seems small when I think of AR-15 gas port sizes, but this is a .308. 

survivalshop (hope you're reading this, man!  ;D) - did you happen to measure your gas port hole in your 16" Fulton Krieger rifle-gas barrel? 

Again guys, this isn't major - it's just my curiousity.  :o  Nothing bad, I'm just trying to see what the different manufacturers are doing.  my Fulton Krieger 18.5" barrel kicks like Van Damme, and I didn't think to measure the gas port hole before I put it all together.  I do on every other build since then, though.  <thumbsup>

Nope , didn't measure it , but did have a drill bit in it to measure the distance from the hole to the barrel shoulder.

Just don't remember the drill bit size . I know it was in between two of them & I had to use the smaller one to take my measurement.

I will measure it ,if I take the gas block off again.

My 16" HB kicks more than my 20 " HB , but I have a brake on the 20" & just a FS on the 16" & its not bad at all.

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I'm pretty sure that if you use the JP Low Mass bolt carrier, you need to use the rest of the parts that are designed as the group.  The whole Low Mass Operating System, so Low Mass Buffer and buffer spring, too.  Just having a light carrier would make the thing kick more, I'd think.

You have to use their Bolt, if you use their Bolt carrier.  You do not have to use their Spring and Buffer. But you can use their upgraded Bolt in any DPMS style Bolt Carrier. I believe that is why Brownells now sells their Bolt by itself, so you can use it in your Bolt carrier.  It may very well, not work as good without their spring and buffer though.  I think I will give them a call before I go and buy one and see what they have to say.

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BAM!!!!!!!!  I just ordered the JP Bolt and Bolt Carrier Group!!!!  They told me to get the full benifit of the Low Mass Bolt Carrier, was to use an Adjustable Gas Block and lower the Gas needed to push it back and that will reduce felt recoil...I don't have an adjustable one right now, but I am going to fire mine without one and switch it over to an adjustable one to see what the difference is.

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Got it together! Just need the bolt group to fire it!

Crappy, Crappy Pictures!!! Sorry about that, I just snapped them quick in the kitchen!

DPMS upper

Kaiser 16" Barrel with Mid Length Gas hole

Larue Gas Block

JP VTAC rifle length handguard with full length top rail, 2" and 4" bottom rail

Smith Vortex Flash hider

Magpul forgrip

CMMG lower

DPMS lower parts group

Magpul IMOD stock

Magpul MIAD grip

Magpul 20 rnd Pmag

Standard Trigger with J & L Research Drop In Trigger Adjuster

JP Bolt carrier and Bolt (In Route, I Hope)

I'm thinking I will go with the JP scope mount and "What Scope?" is the question for me?

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