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Posted

My buddy gave me a single stage rcbs with 308 dies got it all set up and started resizing my first case it was a bit stiff so I give it a little push (this is the fail !!) tried pulling the handle back up and it was stuck! Yep no lube ;( well I was already in to far so I gave it a little push and the lips tore off haha no in having that heavy sinking feeling !! Well. This can't be the first time that ever happened ? Any one have a way to remove the brass with out surgery?! Thanks sketch

Posted

   Not funny!!!!   Every reloader should have a stuck case remover on his bench.   Might not need it for years, but the day will come.   If not for you, for a friend.

    I'v used one many a time, both for myself, and for others.

    Respectfully

    Terry

Posted

So did u have a case head seperation or just a bit of the lip? If the head and flash hole qre still attached a stuck case extractor will work perfectly. If its gonna take a while t get one try some wd-40 and let it sit upside down and screw in or out your decap pin and a shot in there. Place it back in the press and try and slide the shell holder on at another angle into the piston and head at the same time

Posted

How often or when do you clean brass after sizing and deprime ?? Does the lube breakdown the media ?? Or contaminate the finished load? When should I replace media in the tumbler? I have more but I'm feeling the 800 page book from 1998 might have some long answered ? Add = crs!

Posted

RCBS stuck case remover is worth its weight in gold. Used mine three times.

Lesson learned. Don't dry fornicate your dies ! It won't happen again.

If the wd40 doesn't work ... take the die off of the press and disassymble as much as you can thaan use a punch to push the case out of the bottom. Once it is started put the die back in the press and break out the vise grips on the botttom edge of the case and press it with an upstroke.

Once again .... NO Distractions !

Read everything. Take notes. Get your precess done right.

Posted

How often or when do you clean brass after sizing and deprime ?? Does the lube breakdown the media ?? Or contaminate the finished load? When should I replace media in the tumbler? I have more but I'm feeling the 800 page book from 1998 might have some long answered ? Add = crs!

I clean my brass before & after sizing . Cleaning it a little before you size gets the brass a little clean to keep from sizing with dirt on the brass to keep your die from any damage . Final tumbling to make it nice & shiny . 

 

Most( but not all ) sizing lubes are water soluble , so you can wash them in hot water( hot water will flash dry faster than cold water ) & dish soap & let it dry before you final tumble them . Tumbling media will turn some bad colors when it done , just an experience thing .

 

If you have a rotary tumble , check out wet tumbling with Stainless steel media, I'm a convert !

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

^^^  I do mine damn near the exact same way.  I'm just not monetarily ready with the wet tumbling and SS media!  <lmao>

Posted

Thanks brothers finished 80 rnds of .223 tonight man that was an intense lesson! testing begins sat. :) I took my time and I think I got it down so far. One new fail the set screw on the lock nut is brass (assuming so it dosnt dig in the threads of the die) well rcbs Allen key was a tad small and stripped the head!! Does this happen to you? How many spares should I get? Next do you prefer a digital scale over the provided weight scale? How accurate are they.. Links? Thanks brothers.

Posted (edited)

New ? Swedge or not Lc brass has extra ring in primer pocket and fisting caused several prime fails so I grabbed a swedge die! Do you use this tool and when?rcbs set up ?

Edited by sketch
Posted (edited)

I use the RCBS primer pocket swaging tool on mil spec crimped primer pockets & on lightly crimped 5.56 I use a de-burring tool, you only have to swage them once .

The older die lock rings have a brass button under the set screw , to keep from damaging the die threads . New dies have a split ring with alien headed screw. I've been using Dillon lock nuts lately .

I now use a big dollar digital scale , but still have & use (some times ) the balance type RCBS 5-10 scale .

Edited by survivalshop
Posted

I also use the RCBS primer pocket tool folowed by a lyman primer pocker brush.

Dillion makes the super swedge tool for only $100 it is an option.

Never damaged the ring, screw or threads on the lock rings. This only happens if you live north of MT. Vernon and south of Bellingham and only when its raining ! Wait its always raining.

Posted

Almost forgot. Get a LEE Factory Crimp Die for each caliber that you load which is used in mag fed weapons. This will make a world of difference. They go for $10 to $25 dollars each depending our where you buy them. Remember nobody wants their stuff pushed back ! Causes Ftf , jambs ,stovepipes. Squibs

Posted

I also use the RCBS primer pocket tool folowed by a lyman primer pocker brush.

Dillion makes the super swedge tool for only $100 it is an option.

Never damaged the ring, screw or threads on the lock rings. This only happens if you live north of MT. Vernon and south of Bellingham and only when its raining ! Wait its always raining.

Pissing down right now but north of Bellingham the set screw in the lock ring is brass.. Allen key was to small by a fraction and stripped I guess it has a set screw so you can break it down and reset for convenience of not going threw the whole process. My lock ring wants to back off without the set screw? Does lee dies work in rcbs?

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