LocoGringo

I couldn't see that last photo, so I don't know what the grouping and other info was, but I'm using H4895 for my 18.5" Criterion barrel with a 175 SMK and I got a 3 shot group that measured less than 1/4" center to center. I couldn't believe it. I've NEVER shot a group like that. I had a 4th shot also that "opened" the group up to just a little less than .5". Now I'm waiting for the planets to align and the right weather (lighting conditions) to use my chronograph to find out how fast (or slow) they're going. I hope it's in the 2600 FPS range, but doubtful.

I second the method. I've got 2 Harbor Freight tumblers and I bought the 2 year extended warranty because I've got A LOT of brass to polish. The brass comes out FANTASTICALLY clean and my finished ammo looks just like it came out of a factory box. I've broken 1 drive belt so far. One thing to be careful of is stuck SS pins in the flash holes. The pins are easily removed with needle-nose pliers. For drying, I bought a cheap $6 hot plate from a thrift store and "cook" my brass at 200 degrees until all of the water has evaporated. It takes just a few minutes and they are ready to go after a few minutes of cooling.

Well, I had the gunsmith match the threads exactly to my titanium suppressor so that things would be perfectly concentric. It's not "just some muzzle device"...it's an $800 titanium suppressor that I've spent more than 8 months researching, buying and waiting (and counting). The Noveske "flaming pig" I purchased to try to mimic a suppressor as much as possible without actually being a suppressor as well as act as a thread protector when I'm not using the suppressor threaded onto the perfectly matched threads just fine. If it hadn't, I would rather the $800 suppressor thread on my barrel properly and be safe than the $125 compensator. Not dissing your customer satisfaction rating, just telling you how it worked out great.

Do you REALLY think the result of the "drawing" isn't rigged? He rigs every appearance he makes with a friendly crowd. What makes you think he won't rig his own birthday party?!?

The guy I've been talking to who has the same basic setup as me says he's getting 2665 FPS muzzle velocity from his 18.5" Criterion barrel using the 175 SMK with a load of 42.3 grains H4895 at 2.800 and is Sub MOA. His accuracy load for Varget is the same as mine at 44.0 grains, but he only gets 2550 FPS from it. My goal is the exact results he's getting from his H4895 load...2650 or better FPS at the muzzle and sub-MOA accuracy without pushing limits too far. The Lee reloading manual max for H4895 is 42.7 grains, so it looks good to me. I've seen a couple of burn rate charts and I don't think they are an exact science since I've seen some of the powders swap places in different lists. Of course, I don't think ANYTHING related to reloading is an exact science. I'm just getting started, but I can definitely see some art mixed in there with the science.

I'm gonna give up on 8208 because to make it cycle reliably I have to go above book max and as a new handloader, I just don't feel comfortable with that when there are other powders that cycle the rifle reliably without pushing the envelope. I've been talking with a guy who has basically the exact same rifle as I do (DPMS LR-308 with 18.5" Criterion barrel and rifle length gas system) and he uses H4895 with the 175 SMK and is getting great results. I guess I'll try that one next since it's one of the 5 powders I bought with the intention of trying. Anyone got any results with that powder in a similar setup?

I finally got to shoot these loads and am sad to say it doesn't cycle the action...not even the "hottest" loads. I think the powder burns too quickly and the pressure curve doesn't last long enough to cycle my DPMS LR-308 with an 18.5" barrel. I tried some accuracy loads from my bolt action (they are on the moderately warm side, but well under "book max") loaded with 42.4 grains of IMR 4064 loaded to 2.810 OAL with a 175 SMK and it cycled perfectly. I also tried some load development with Varget ranging from 42.0 to 44.0 and they all cycled perfectly as well. The most accurate load for my rifle was the 44.0 of Varget.

Maybe I don't get it, but why would you want a bullet to be LESS wind resistant?

So far I've only shot at 200 yards or less, but accuracy has been great. I was competing with my brother who has a custom bolt action rifle and we were playing tic-tac-toe. Each square had an "X" in the upper left corner and an "O" in the lower right corner. To establish the square with an "X" or an "O", you had to hit the x or o. I was shooting for the X's and my brother was shooting for the O's. The letters were 3/8" by 3/8" and we were shooting them at 200 yards. Now, that's not to say we were hitting them with every shot, but we were hitting them consistently enough to be really happy. You can find the targets at freetargetz.com. Keep in mind, we were using match ammo, but I was competing with (and beating) a top-end bolt action rifle. I'm in the process of load development and am looking forward to getting it back from the smith so I can shoot my first developed rounds. The ammo I've been using has been relatively inexpensive Federal American Eagle 168 grain OTM (for the M1A).

Not if you get the one that I got which is the stainless steel, medium contour below the one you're looking at. It's $280 and about $20 shipping for a total of $300. The gas block is .936 OD and only weighs half a pound more than the black one you're looking at...that's 8 oz more, practically nothing distributed over the entire length of the barrel and will have more rigidity than the thinner barrel which translates to more accuracy. Not trying to sell you on what I have, just making some observations to consider. The black barrel you are looking at also has a chrome lined barrel, so if it shoots well, it will last for damn near forever.

That's exactly where I bought mine...Fulton Armory. Since I already had a BCG, I just sent them my bolt and they headspaced it for me to be sure it would be right. Quick turnaround also...I think 7 business days from when I sent my bolt to them until I had the barrel in my hand.

I'm late to this thread, but I gotta take issue with the first 2 sentences. I bought a base model DPMS LR-308 with the 24" bull barrel about 4 years ago. I went through the "break-in" process and babied the hell out of that barrel. I used only match ammo after I finished the break-in and I never got consistent results out of that barrel. I would get some great individual shots, but groups were awful. I even had it re-crowned and eventually contoured to an H-bar, but nothing improved. I finally gave up on the stock barrel and replaced it with a Criterion stainless steel for $300 and, WOW, the difference! Shooting the same ammo with the same rate of twist in both barrels, there was no comparison. The Criterion SMOKED the stock DPMS. I'd say a more accurate statement would be that the stock DPMS barrels are hit and miss. I've heard a lot of success stories, but I've also heard several stories similar to mine. I got the 18.5" Criterion match quality and am thrilled. As far as going DI or piston, I'm having an adjustable gas block installed and anticipate excellent function and accuracy with a suppressor on a DI rifle. The adjustable gas block I bought is the PRI steel model for $85 at MidwayUSA.com. If you're going for lightweight, piston isn't the way to go. Piston runs cooler and cleaner, but not lighter. Good luck with your build or purchase.

I saw 3 available on gunbroker.com as of 12:46 EST. One was regular phosphate, one was chrome bolt carrier and the other was all chrome.

I'm literally just getting started in reloading. I worked up my first 25 test rounds this past weekend. However, I don't have a 16" barrel. I've got an 18.5", so my data will be of limited use for you. It might be a guide, but not exact. Haven't shot my loads yet and will have to wait as I am having my rifle modified and want to wait until it's done.

Well, I just finished loading 25 rounds of 175 SMK's with loads of IMR 8208 XBR starting at 38.7 grains and ending at 41.1 grains of powder, changing by .6 grains for each 5 round group. My Hornady manual actually listed the max load at 41.0, but they used a 178-180 gr bullet, so I figured I'd be safe with .1 grains above their "directive". It seems like a really conservative manual. Anyone else have a different manual with a different "max load" for 8208 with 175 grain SMK's? Not sure when I'll be able to test, but I'll be shooting them out of a DPMS LR-308 equipped with a Criterion 1:10 twist 18.5" barrel. My next day off will be this coming Thursday and I might have the itch so bad I won't be able to wait. These are my first reloads ever, so hopefully I won't blow up my rifle or maim/kill myself in the process of pulling the trigger.