SWshooter

I shoot on two ranges. Jamestown Rifle Club has a 100 yd outdoor high power range with covered firing points and nice wooden benches on a concrete pad. This is where I do my initial load development. It is very comfortable to shoot from and is closest to my house. Once I have a couple loads that look good I go to the Carol Rod and Gun club range. They have backstops at 50, 100, 200, and 300 yds. They have a covered firing point but because of the way the range lays it is on wooden posts and has a tendency to bounce around if any one is moving around while your shooting. For real accuracy work you need to be there alone. The next closest ranges are Ridgeway PA with a 600 meter silhouette range, and Dubois PA has a 1000 yd range. I've never been to either as they are a couple hours drive away. They are both long established ranges with a great history of both early varmint and bench rest shooting going back to the early 30's and 40's. If you live any where near them you should check them out. I have found that long heavy bullets often are not fully stabilized at 100 yds and maybe more. I have a 350 Rem mag that seems to shoot 1 1/2 inch groups at 100, 200 and 300 yds with 250 gr. spitzers. I almost threw out the load because it didn't seem that accurate at 100 yds. I happened to try some at 200 one day and shot the same inch and a half groups as I was shooting at 100. I moved back to 300 and shot an inch and a half group and that load has been my go to load in the 350 ever since.

Well, did you do it, or did the wife find out ;D

I would like to see pictures of your bench set-up. Especially you guys that seem to consistently get 1 moa or better groups. I use a pretty simple set-up with a caldwell rest with a contoured bag in front and a bunny ear bag at the rear. Next time I shoot I'll try to remember to take a pic with the gun in place. What seems to cause the most trouble for you and how do you correct for it? MY gun seems very sensitive to cant and I mounted a bubble level on my gun and try to remember to use it. Also, I don't like the round float tube as it seems to cant one way or the other every shot. My gun also seems very sensitive to any side pressure on the grip, ie if you press to the left to center the vertical cross hair the round will strike to the left.

If you want to trim those carriage bolts, grab them with a pair of fairly large channel locks and bend back and forth a couple times and they will break flush with the nut. Faster and easier than trying to saw them off. Speakin' of 'rhoids, I built my first bench out of rough cut oak 2x6's, still a little green, and I had to have three friends come over to help me turn it over once I had the legs on it. It's ugly, but I still use it for my heavy work.

Is there more stuff than is in their regular catalog?

I bought the Millett to more or less proof the Leupold I had on it when I first bought it. So far the only problem with the Millett is the clicks are 1/2 moa not 1/4 as marked on the scope itself. Part of the problem could be that I am recovering from a badly torn rotator cuff and my shoulder is still not very strong. Thats why I've only been shooting off the bench. I'm not in a hurry with it, and will take my time and figure it out. If all else fails I'll put a match barrel on it.

Here is a target shot with my LR-308. I have been having alot of trouble trying to shoot groups off the bench. 12 shots fired in 3 shot groups allowing the barrel to cool between groups. The pencil lines show the 3 shot groups. Notice the group centers are all over even though each group by itself isn't bad. I used a front bag on a mechanical rest and a rear bunny ear bag. This is the best group I've been able to shoot. Five shots off a double bag rest in one string no cooling between shots. This is a 10 shot group fired in two 5 shot strings allowing the barrel to cool between strings. I shot this group with my elbows on the bench and my front hand on a bag. This rifle is a real chore to shoot off a double bag rest. it bounces around so much with every shot, you have to move it around too much to lay it back in for the next shot and that causes the POI to change. I shoot it better off my hands. I'm going to try it prone with a sling and I think that will be the best way to shoot it. This is the rifle I'm shooting. Started as a standard LR-308 w/24" bull barrel. I had ADCO recontour the barrel to a straight .750 and install VLTOR low profile gas block. Added a tubing stock and better grip. Had Bill Springfield do the trigger. Initially had a PEPR mount with a Leup 2.5-8 VX-III with a Burris Fastfire mounted on the PEPR for a backup sight. Now I have a Millett TRS-1 in 30mm quick release rings. It definitely needs a better trigger, unfortunately I spent my trigger money on one of those ZM-4 uppers DSA is selling, I just couldn't resist ;D

Buy an action, a barrel blank, and a stock. Have the action trued, and give the smith a dummy round with the bullet you want to use and have him throat to match. Pillar bed the stock and float the barrel. And don't forget the trigger, you'll need a really good one or the rest of the work won't matter. Ditto the scope. Figure out the most it will cost and then double it. No matter what the smith says figure one to two years to get it back. God Bless you and let us know how it shoots.

I followed a link from another forum.

The factory cardboard boxes are ok but tend to fall apart after awhile. I use clear packing tape to reinforce them and they last a long time then. But I find myself using the aftermarket plastic boxes more often.

Carb cleaner is your friend. Then spray with CLP and brush as required. I use the foaming bore cleaners to check for copper fouling. I clean the barrel with CLP and then a dry patch and then fill with foam. Let stand while cleaning the rest of the gun, then run a patch through and look for blue. If the patch comes out blue I continue to use foam until no more blue, then a light coat of CLP. If you have a heavily fouled AR the sooner you clean it the better. I don't think I've ever cleaned a gas tube.

I like a 100 rd plastic cartridge box. I take an extra fine sharpie and write the load on the side of the cartridge. Makes it easier to keep the brass sorted out after firing and checking for pressure signs. Leave an empty row between loads. I've also used different colored markers on the primers to help sort things out too. When you decap the casings the marks are gone.

I'll cast my vote for H-4895 as the universal rifle powder. Unique is the universal cast bullet pistol powder, and H-110 is the jacketed pistol powder. I have my loading manuals out and am ready for all comers. ;)

The recoil itself doesn't bother me, it's the gun moving off target more than I'm used to. I shoot a 350 Rem Mag and get better groups. It's just frustrating. You get 2,3,4 shots cutting one hole and then the next one is two inches out. I'm beginning to suspect the scope isn't holding zero. I'm not going to shoot again until the new Millett scope is mounted. I can't see wasting ammo. Scope should be here Monday and if the weather cooperates should hit the range on Tuesday.

Use the suggested starting loads from a good reloading manual, and slowly work your way up. Use the SAAMI overall length and you won't go wrong. I like a canelure on my bullets so that pretty much determines your oal. The 308AR's load so rough I worry about bullets getting pushed back into the case.

I had my LR-308 barrel recontoured to .750 and left it 24" long. With a PEPR mount and a Leup 2.5-8 scope, and Burris Fastfire backup sight, it weighs 10.5 lbs. Still too heavy for a hunting rifle I think. I just put a ARFX tubing stock on it, should take off another 4 oz but thats not much. Maybe a carbine length carbon fiber forend? Most off the weight is in the barrel and bolt carrier and I don't want to cut down the barrel any more. Maybe some one will come out with a titanium bolt carrier or something.

I'm used to shooting bolt guns off a benchrest. The longest range I have available is 300 yds. I shot the gun yesterday and noticed it is very position sensitive off the bags. Any change in pressure also. I need a better rest for the butt stock, it sits higher than my bolt guns and I think I'm going to have to buy an adjustable rest for the rear bag. I was trying to stack several bags on top of each other but that is not stable enough. I'm going to the range tomorrow. I loaded 150 gr Corlokt, 165 gr SST, and 190 gr BTSP with starting loads of H-4895. I'll see how they do. I just received an ARFX buttstock and put that on today, I ordered a Millett 4-16x52 scope and a new grip. The only thing I need now is a good trigger. When I say fire and acquire I mean with precision. I take the time to check position on the bags and reset everything where it should be. I just don't wait for the barrel to cool between shots. I fired a couple groups without the rear bag, holding the rifle tight to my shoulder with left hand on the forearm and back of my hand on a bag and got some better groups with it. I've been reviewing Warren Pages book " The Accurate Rifle" and brushing up on my bench technique. I've been playing with the group size calculator and I'm waiting for Ralph Wilson to send me a registration number, but he's on a mission trip somewhere and I'm going to have to wait for him to get home before I get it. Weather is getting much nicer and the snow is off the range now so things should progress much faster now. I have a 700 Rem in 222 that I can consistently shoot sub 1/2" groups with so I think I'm up to it, I'm just not used to these hard kicking 308 type AR's yet.

Isn't it great when a plan comes together. Very nice groups, I wish I could get mine shooting that well.

I just received a Hogue overmoulded stock for my Ruger 1022M. I bought a 17 HMR barrel for it a while back and didn't want to hog out the factory stock for the bigger 17 barrel. I found the stock on sale on Ebay stores for $51, agood deal. I just ordered a tubing stock for the LR-308 today so will be looking for that now. I badly want to order a trigger, that will probably be next.

I wanted one for a long time but they are just too pricy for me to justify. I picked up my LR-308 instead, figuring I'm more used too the AR sytem anyway. Now that I've worked with it a little I think it is much more user friendly than the M-14 family. However, if one showed up at a price I could afford it would definitely go home with me. It's just a classic main battle rifle.

I think it will go just like the 1911's. Now that a major manufacturer like Remington is making the R-25 they are all going to have to make one just to stay even. When I saw Sig and S&W start making 1911's you knew they were here to stay. I'm hoping that the piston gas system is going to get some big time R&D. It's the weak point in the AR system and once thats done it will be as generic as the Mauser bolt system.

For a pig popper your problems with a 308 AR will be weight and over all length. The 16" barrel is the right choice and in a light weight contour. You definitely want a light forend and buttstock. The Sportical receiver is a good choice for a hunting rifle, the high rise, brass deflector and forward assist add unwanted weight. I would buy the Sportical and the only change I would make would be a good single stage trigger. Then spend some time with it and you'll figure out what changes you want to make it better.

Barrel is the same length, had it turned down to .750 from the full .960 bull barrel. I took it out again and fired four groups with it. Two with my 150 gr Corlokt handloads and two with some russian Wolf FMJ. The two handloads measured 3 5/8 and 2 5/8. The Wolf was 3 1/4 and 3 1/4. That's c-c the widest shots and they were 10 shot groups. I fired as fast as I could reacquire the target and squeeze off the shots. I had problems with the Wolf feeding in one mag and had to stop and change mags. The barrel had a chance to cool between strings. It was about 20 degrees out so it didn't take long. I definitely need a better trigger and I need more trigger time to get used to this rifle. It is a different beast off the sand bags than the bolt guns I'm used to shooting. I ordered a skeleton stock for it today and I'm looking at a Chip McCormick drop in trigger. If anyone knows of a good deal on a single stage trigger please post.

Why would you want an SBR in 7.62 anyway. Isn't the idea a short light highly maneuverable rifle? The AR-10 platform puts you at a disadvantage right of the mark, it is much larger and heavier than a comparable AR-15 package. The caliber is compromised by the short barrel length not to mention the terrific muzzle blast of burning that much powder in a short barrel. Then there is the weight of ammo and magazines. If you want a 30 cal you would be better off with a 7.62x39. In the short barrel it will come close to the 308 ballistics without the muzzle blast, but you would be better with the 6.8 than either. My idea is an AR-15 with a 16" pencil barrel, flat top, carbon fiber handguard, collapsible stock and polymer magazines. Easily usable with one hand if needed and more lethal at a far greater distance than any handgun. It could be disassembled and carried in a small bugout bag and with an adequate supply of ammo wouldn't be too heavy.

I'm using a Leupold 2 1/2-8 VX-III because I had a spare one. It would work fine for a hunting scope, needs a little morre power for bench testing loads and shooting small varmints. I would like to try the Bushnell 6500, I think it is 3.5-24. Should cover the whole range of shooting options pretty well if it's durable enough.