darb

I have the GG&G on my AR-308 rifle from hell but the rifle likes it so I'm good to go. :banana: The banana Man strikes again.

Weight and speed seem to be an attraction like bees to flowers, but the yield may differ. I enjoy watching as I can learn from the failures and successes.I say strive for limits never accomplished, as long as safety requirements are met. Happy Shooting.

Just out of curiosity: By getting the barrel down as, "thin as it allows". By how much would that effect round count in the life of the barrel, or would it?

Does anybody know if the extra mass on the AR chamber area needs to be more than in a bolt action? I would get some professional verification before removing an material.IMO Keep posting and Good Luck

Will wait til the weather cools off a bit and then give it a spray.

That is the answer I was hoping for yet I want to make of doing it properly. Thanks for the reply.

Pretty warm here in the central valley up against the seirra nevada foothills. when you say sand blast, what grit of sand? or is there a better material to use? I have one of those cheap harbour frieght blasters. Works ok for small projects but you have to be careful and not get to close.

I am still following this historic thread. I am stuck with a couple of Duracote kits. My parts are anodized. Do I need to strip to bare metal? I'll probably blow this doing something stupid, which by the way I am good at. :banana: I just like to see that banana guy.

Looks? just different from factory primed. they are set 2 1/2 thousands below base. Some seem fine and some do not. I may try re-swaging and or de- burring. I will have to wait til tomorrow as I have not hooked up the AC yet, also my ceiling fan with light went out. What is a man to do? Thanks for the reply.

photos LC 5.56

I better give a little background to SLOW down the bleeding from the Azz kicking. No :binkybaby: here. In Summary to all above (excluding the Higher Power): I am a beginner but this is not the beginning. I have 7 books which 3 are Load Data, Nosler, Speer and Lyman. Perhaps not the best of choice but seemed to be at the time of purchase ( 18 months ago). I HAVE been reading for the past 18 months, (the more I read, the more questions I have so the more I read.) There a distinct possibility that I am a slow reader. ^-^ I do have a decent collection of reloading equipment at my disposal. I have processed 1000 pcs and 750 pcs of 7.62x51 and .556 Lake City brass. Which included cleaning, ( Wet tumbling, Vibratory tumbler and Sonic cleaner). I have de-primed and resized (I did use case lube. Now that reading paid off ^-^). I swagged,cleaned, uniformed primer pockets, trimmed to length, champered inside & out, and brushed necks. Checked all casings with case gage. Ta Da Ta Da :banana: I may have missed something in the above, if so hopefully due to old timers kicking in and not an actual step in the process. I know this must be redundant reading to those whom are shaking their heads, as it is to me, but perhaps seeing it in writing will help me on my pathway to enlightenment. ::) I now will head out to the gunroom and get some photos of my failures at brass priming. I may as well at this point do my best to keep this thread alive. I would like to thank all of my readers for their continued support, without you I would not have spent the last 15 minutes of my life writing this boring sh$t. <thumbsup>

I will post some photos in the Morning. I also have the RCBS swage tool but have not used it as I bought the dillion and used it. Do you just swage and then prime? Other than it not looking the same as the new starline I primed for the .40 I am not sure. <dontknow>

Never mind. I saw some photos under the high pressure thread. It looks like I need to de burr after removing the crimp. Sorry to have wasted your time in reading this crap. :auto: me.

I saw some pictures on American reloader and it looks like after they have been de crimped they have also been chamfered. Si or No? Someone take pity on a poor soul and reply. :'(

I am new to reloading. I have loaded new .40 cal brass without an issue. I do not like the looks of the few pieces of once fired L.C. brass I have primed. I was hoping someone could post a picture of theirs so I can compare. I have the Dillon swagging tool, the Lyman prep machine and hand tools. In the mean time I will surf the net. Thanks P.S. Worst case scenario I could load and test fire but I do not think that is a good idea at this point. If I do, for those with a sense of humor, I will post the results, if I am capable. :banana: and for those who do not please disregard the test firing sentence .

Thanks. You may be on to something in regards to the scope, May be canted, back to the gun room and then the range. :banana:

Thank you but l believe you meant finally done. This was a build from hell. At times I would get so POd I would Hide it for weeks or a month at a time so I would not have to look at it. Now its easy on the eyes. :'( I may just have to give the rifle a name,

Thank you. My goal was to build a precision AR. I had to smile when I shot that group as I also built a Bolt action .260 Rem and it only shot in the 7's, of course it may have been the shooter but I do expect better results from both rifles after load development, which is my next new adventure, Next I'll post my results of my Ar-15 build, which were also pretty decent.

I wish to thank everyone on the forum for your help. I have been working on this build for quite some time. I had a lot of issues. I probably should have started on the AR-15 platform first. The build consist of: Tactical Maching upper and lower(80%) reciever, SSA trigger, Red-X 24" S/S barrel, PRS stock, Adjustable gas block and free float tube. Sightron 6x24-50mm 2-MOA scope and GG&G bi-pod. I hope to get better groups when I start reloading for it. Thanks again to all.

Any chance of a video? :auto:

With 40cal or 10mm by chance?

Help others out. What other triggers would be good to stay away from? IYO

In regards to scope, there are more experienced on this site than I but I will give you my 2 cents. There is no need to put on a carrying handle, unless you want one. I just installed a scope with a 3/4" riser and it works fine with the front sight still attached. If you go with a longer free float tube you could remove your front site and install a flip up sight with the gas block on the inside or outside of the tube.Spend a much as you can afford on glass. I took a chance and just bought a Primary Arms rifle scope. it is 4x14-44 mil dot reticle FFP scope It has 35 mil adjustment for elevation and windage. The glass is pretty clear. I saw a review on it on you tubes $1000.00, 1000yd rifle. For the money I figured it would worth a try, Check out cameraland, and euro optics. Read up all you can and ask a lot of questions before buying.

With two boys still in College, I hear you on the deals. Botach.com has the G2s for $147.84. Last time I checked you could make up to three offers. I started my first offer at a 100.00. It never hurts to ask. Hopefully you will get some responses for less money and perhaps a better trigger selection. I saw several trigger manufactures at this years SHOT. Another possibility you may check out is the RRA two stage for around $100.00.

Giessele trigger at Botach. I picked up 2 of them for 125.00 each on the make an offer. It has the same trigger pull weight as the SSA which I have also and I cannot tell the difference. For the money I believe that is a good trigger but there are other triggers out there, that I am sure would serve your purpose. I would think a trigger upgrade should be at the top of your list. IMO